Tubus rack refinish?
#1
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Tubus rack refinish?
Powder coating is too expensive to consider so that is off the table.
Wondering if just primer and paint,Rustol Rust?, is the way to go?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Wondering if just primer and paint,Rustol Rust?, is the way to go?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
#2
Banned
rattle can
Appearance? it will be something you need to re apply, as it's not as durable..
adding the metal tape pieces (they sell some) will take the wear..
another poster here used plastic tubing,
with new Ortlieb hooks just take out the inserts ... for oversize diameters (14mm?)
..
adding the metal tape pieces (they sell some) will take the wear..
another poster here used plastic tubing,
with new Ortlieb hooks just take out the inserts ... for oversize diameters (14mm?)
..
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-17-18 at 02:48 PM.
#4
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Have you actually priced powder coating?
I can't imagine it could be more than $25 to coat a rack.
A complex two coast process for an entire frame set me back $125.
https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/2002-fuji-roubaix-26092
-Tim-
I can't imagine it could be more than $25 to coat a rack.
A complex two coast process for an entire frame set me back $125.
https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/2002-fuji-roubaix-26092
-Tim-
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Why the refinishing? OEM finish in bad shape? Want a different color?
I agree that powder coating can be pretty low cost, especially if you pick a common color and are in no rush (so the painter can do the rack at the same time as a different job of the same color). Rattle can paint is generally not too durable, especially when things rub, scrape against the painted thing, like a rack. For something like a stem that get's very little contact with other items but a rack's reason to exist involves putting stuff on it. Andy
I agree that powder coating can be pretty low cost, especially if you pick a common color and are in no rush (so the painter can do the rack at the same time as a different job of the same color). Rattle can paint is generally not too durable, especially when things rub, scrape against the painted thing, like a rack. For something like a stem that get's very little contact with other items but a rack's reason to exist involves putting stuff on it. Andy
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The local power coster has a minimum of $85. The rack have the finish worn off where the pannier hooks have looped onto tubing. My thought is to refinish and then attach rubber tubing to protect the rack and to eliminate the hook inserts on the Ortlieb panniers.
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I can understand a minimum charge, too bad that the guy isn't more flexible though. I would think that Cleveland has a number of powder coaters, perhaps a LBS might share who they know of? Have you tried to ask Joe Brighneli or Dan Polito for any one they know? Andy
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#8
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Andy,
I don't know Don and the one Joe used went out of business.
I don't know Don and the one Joe used went out of business.
#9
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Like I mentioned, I would hope that a city with the industrial history that Cleveland has would have a number of metal finishing shops. Here in Rochester there are quite a few, although only a couple that I would suggest. I'll be getting a couple of racks coated later this winter (they're self made so will be raw steel) and could ask/include yours in my job. Take this off forum if you want this option. Andy
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It shouldn't be that much. Go to a different coater. Shop around.
Look for a shop which does custom automotive and motorcycle parts, firerarms, etc.
Stay away from industrial job lot shops where your one part will be mixed in with 300 washing machine lids or 150 lawn chairs.
-Tim-
Look for a shop which does custom automotive and motorcycle parts, firerarms, etc.
Stay away from industrial job lot shops where your one part will be mixed in with 300 washing machine lids or 150 lawn chairs.
-Tim-
#11
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un hurried?
I have gotten pieces done for cheap/free, with patience..
A friend has a powder coating business,
The big expense , he says , is the power to make the heat..
So I just wait with my small things , until he has some big things,
to be done in the same color, like: motorbike frames car wheels and etc.
sometimes it's many months..
..
A friend has a powder coating business,
The big expense , he says , is the power to make the heat..
So I just wait with my small things , until he has some big things,
to be done in the same color, like: motorbike frames car wheels and etc.
sometimes it's many months..
..
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It shouldn't be that much. Go to a different coater. Shop around.
Look for a shop which does custom automotive and motorcycle parts, firerarms, etc.
Stay away from industrial job lot shops where your one part will be mixed in with 300 washing machine lids or 150 lawn chairs.
-Tim-
Look for a shop which does custom automotive and motorcycle parts, firerarms, etc.
Stay away from industrial job lot shops where your one part will be mixed in with 300 washing machine lids or 150 lawn chairs.
-Tim-
That is Cerakote, a process used for firearms and tools and knives that is very, very durable and scratch and rust resistant. Cerakote is a thin film ceramic coating technology. There are both air cured and heat cured versions. It is appled and then baked at low temps. Many colors are available, but black is very common. There are other processes with similar names, i.e., "xxxacoat", but CeraKote is the actual brand. It is used by military and police, as well as manufacturers. I have seen it used on knife blades and it does not scratch easily or wear off. It is also used to coat tools, etc. https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/
The website also lists applicators so you can find one close.
#13
Banned
Read; Thomson is doing that on seat posts and stems
back ground in aerospace bike stuff a small sideline ..
it wont be cheap..
So given Tom's first line is
A bit unrealistic wouldn't you say? (Got a free source?)
.....
back ground in aerospace bike stuff a small sideline ..
it wont be cheap..
So given Tom's first line is
Powder coating is too expensive to consider
.....
#14
Senior Member
Lately for bike bits like bars/stem been using "epoxy paint" a fair bit, comes in rattlecan. Unlike cheap spraypaint that dries in minutes, this takes at least a day to tack off & 3-4 days to fully cure. Seems hardy enough so far, hasn't chipped or flaked off unexpectedly.