Handlebars for Hybrids
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Handlebars for Hybrids
I have been hybridizing my Focus Mares CX Cross bike for a while now. I am still not happy with my handlebars. I took off the heavy drop bar that came on the bike and replaced it with a carbon riser bar. I put end bars on the carbon bar, switched them to “ inner” bars. Then I cut the 720 carbon bar down to 680. I like the position of the inner bars better than resting my hands on the riser bar, which makes me think I would like an even narrower bar.
One of the challenges I am facing is, I switched to a grip shifter that I bought with a new Eagle GX 1X group set. I like how easy it is to shift between multiple gears but the grip shifter limits other handlebar options. I got a great deal on Ergon GP1-S grips. It turns out that they do not work with my grip shifter like I was hoping. I got them for $10 so no big deal.
I am worrying about space on my bar for: 2 sets of end bars, light, bell/horn, brakes, shifter. Maybe I can go with a regular shorter flat bar instead of the riser bar? I am also considering moving the grip shifter to my MTN bike and moving the trigger shifter on the MTN bike to the lighter bike which I have less trouble with on hills.
I like the idea of a small and longer set of end/ inner bars, so I have more hand positions. I can actually work the brakes from the riser bar or the inner bars on my current set up, which is nice.
One of the challenges I am facing is, I switched to a grip shifter that I bought with a new Eagle GX 1X group set. I like how easy it is to shift between multiple gears but the grip shifter limits other handlebar options. I got a great deal on Ergon GP1-S grips. It turns out that they do not work with my grip shifter like I was hoping. I got them for $10 so no big deal.
I am worrying about space on my bar for: 2 sets of end bars, light, bell/horn, brakes, shifter. Maybe I can go with a regular shorter flat bar instead of the riser bar? I am also considering moving the grip shifter to my MTN bike and moving the trigger shifter on the MTN bike to the lighter bike which I have less trouble with on hills.
I like the idea of a small and longer set of end/ inner bars, so I have more hand positions. I can actually work the brakes from the riser bar or the inner bars on my current set up, which is nice.
#2
Senior Member
I am fine with a drop bar on my hybrid. I have a no name 44mm wide ATM which is enough room for accessories when I choose. What made your DB’s so heavy?
#3
Senior Member
I like the buttery handlebars the best as an economy solution. The carbon Jones H-bar is a nice $$$ solution. Lots of hand positions for each.
Edit: Butterfly, not buttery.
Edit: Butterfly, not buttery.
Last edited by DeadGrandpa; 10-12-18 at 05:16 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It turns out the original dropbar was not horribly heavy. I was in one place the original bar was in another. My problem with the DBs was as much with the gear shifting and breaking as the handlebars. I am use to trigger or grip shifters, with seperate brake levers, like my MTN has. I did not feel comfortable in the position I was in on the bike either, which may have been more of a fit issue. I have issues with my neck and back which DBs may increase. I was having less issues with my MTN bike and decided to make the two bikes more similar.
I like the idea behind the Jones & Specialized handlebars, just not sure I want to spend the high dollar amount to find out if they help. Many of the listings on Amazon for the Butterfly bars do not even list weight, which makes me nervous.
I like the idea behind the Jones & Specialized handlebars, just not sure I want to spend the high dollar amount to find out if they help. Many of the listings on Amazon for the Butterfly bars do not even list weight, which makes me nervous.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-14-18 at 01:40 PM.
#6
Banned
An alternative and often chosen in Europe, is figure 8 bend trekking bars.
more hand positions than straight bars .
you can get the lean forward, with the front bend, (for headwinds?)
and sit more upright, closer reach in the rear of the bars grips..
and the bar end like sides,,
This is an Italian made ITM bar made for the NL bike company Koga..
this is more a world tour bike with 26" rather than 700c wheels ..
single tube, from Modolo, Italy.
more hand positions than straight bars .
you can get the lean forward, with the front bend, (for headwinds?)
and sit more upright, closer reach in the rear of the bars grips..
and the bar end like sides,,
This is an Italian made ITM bar made for the NL bike company Koga..
this is more a world tour bike with 26" rather than 700c wheels ..
single tube, from Modolo, Italy.
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-14-18 at 01:39 PM.
#7
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I switched from flat, then riser bars, a couple of months ago in favor of a Nitto albatross bar. It's a keeper. More hand positions, from upright and comfortable to leaning in and more aero, and much easier on my injured shoulder and neck.
After a couple of months using indexed thumb shifters, then cheap SunRace friction thumb shifters, I'm switching to bar end shifters soon.
After a couple of months using indexed thumb shifters, then cheap SunRace friction thumb shifters, I'm switching to bar end shifters soon.
#8
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I’m getting pretty comfortable on my recently fitted Albatross bars. First longer, windy ride today. Spent a fair amount of time on the forward curves. Roughly like riding the hoods on drop bars. Old neck fracture really appreciates the position. Think I’m gonna wrap more of the bars for a more comfortable grip. Cork tape, probably.
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Cork will do it, and cheaply! @gorillimo
#12
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I’m getting pretty comfortable on my recently fitted Albatross bars. First longer, windy ride today. Spent a fair amount of time on the forward curves. Roughly like riding the hoods on drop bars. Old neck fracture really appreciates the position. Think I’m gonna wrap more of the bars for a more comfortable grip. Cork tape, probably.
I was surprised to find how versatile the albatross bar is -- pretty comparable to drop bars in versatility, especially with the albatross bar flipped, although it'll be awhile before my shoulder recovers enough for that.
I've done a few casual group rides of 35-45 miles the past couple of months with the abatross bars and while other parts of the body may be tired or aching, the hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders and neck are comfortable. Huge improvement over the riser and flat bars for longer rides. And not any slower. While our group rides tend to be very leisurely I'm usually running late so I'll hustle the 10-12 miles from home to the meetup. My speed has improved a little with the albatross bars because I can lean into the curves or just ahead of the brakes (yet still have my hands ready to brake), getting just a little more aero without any strain. And for the group rides in traffic I'm often at the rear to encourage and retrieve stragglers, so I can sit upright with my hands on the grips and look around more easily -- much better peripheral vision for riding in traffic, for those of us with mobility limitations from neck injuries.
Meanwhile I'm replacing the angled dirt stem with a horizontal stem from my road bike. It'll be just a little longer and lower, just enough to suit my improved conditioning over the past month, and to clear some room for bar end shifters between the end of the bar and my knees.
And I have some Arundel Gecko padded bar tape to wrap it all up after switching from cheap SunRace friction shifters near the stem to bar end shifters. It'll be more comfortable in cold and/or wet weather, although the bare metal bar really isn't uncomfortable when I'm on the forward curves. It's well balanced so I'm not leaning heavily enough on the bar to be uncomfortable despite my occasional wrist aches. If I lower the bar a bit the padded tape should be more comfortable.
A friend put bar end shifters on his Surly with drop bars and likes 'em. He wrapped them with two colors of Newbaum's cloth tape. He originally planned to braid wrap the two colors for a harlequin look, but couldn't get the spacing right. I told him that's why he needed daughters or sisters.
While I'm keeping my road bike as-is, drop bar and downtube shifters and all, I'm tempted now to get an older steel road bike of similar weight and convert it to a lighter weight hybrid with albatross or North Road bars. I've seen a couple of older steel road bikes converted like that on our local casual group rides and the owners say it's terrific, and saves up to 5 lbs off a typical hybrid or older mountain bike.
***
Not my bike, just an example of how my friction thumb shifters were set up, although mine were closer to the stem so I could ride the forward curves of the albatross bar. I'll be switching to bar end shifters soon. And to a stem like the above bike -- right now I'm using the original upward angled dirt stem. And that harlequin braid wrap looks good in leather too.
Last edited by canklecat; 10-23-18 at 12:34 AM.
#13
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#14
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Thread Starter
I cut the carbon riser bar down to 680, making the regular grips more like 660, after adding the end bars. I had to remove the clamps on the ends as the end bars would not fit over them. Now I have end bars and inner bars, with everything fitting.
Last edited by McMitchell; 11-05-18 at 12:03 AM.
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#16
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I am still thinking about replacing the -6-8 degree, 100mm stem (below) with a -17, 110mm that I have. I am also curious if the SRAM grips will stay in place with the single clamp, since I cut the the plastic retainers for the end clamps off to get the new 3” ehd bars on.
Last edited by McMitchell; 11-05-18 at 12:04 AM.
#17
Senior Member
Then check your wallet and look at the Osprey
the way i see it is that the handlebar is a long term investment and when i sell my bike i put the original straight bar on it and use the H-bar on the new bike.
contact points, besides geometry, are most important for comfort and efficiency. so definitely worth to buy what works for me.