rbrides

I've had an intermittent issue with my Shimano hydraulic front disc brakes all year. Very often, when I release the brake level, I hear a "tinging" sound, as if one or both of the pads have not retracted fully into the caliper. It is very annoying. Many, many times I have put the bike on the repair stand and adjusted the caliper by loosening the bolts, squeezing the lever, tightening the bolts back while holding the lever, all to center the caliper to the disc. It usually spins on the stand without issue. but it often returns again on rides.


I have done all sorts of things the resolve this. Replaced the discs, replace pads, cleaned the caliper pistons (at least the small portion that protrudes from the caliper, a method described by Park Tools), adjusted and readjusted the caliper again and again it but always just comes back. When fell rides ask "whats that noise" it is annoying. Sometimes it I can ride for days without it occurring, but it eventually comes back. Aggravating. I feel the only solution left is to replace the whole caliper but that just seems expensive. The bike is less than a year old. When I have taken it to the bike shop they get the same result on the repair stand I described above and say its fixed. I need a true, permanent resolution.

CargoDane

Could it be the piston at the lever somehow?

ridelikeaturtle

Are there little pins on which the pads slide? Copper anti-seize compound, or some form of wheel bearing grease. Regardless, the caliper will need regular cleaning and maintenance, that's the true "permanent" solution.

GamblerGORD53

I would throw those crazy gimmicks in the garbage. Is this a mudder bike? What the hell is the point of hydraulic?
My TRP cable Spyres work 100% every time on my Rohloff 203 disc, stops instantly any time I want with not much effort. The rear line is very long too. Adjustment is seldom and very unfinicky.
I have SA long pull levers and resin pads. Over 4,000 miles. I haven't broken a cable in 40 years. Lots of times I cut an old rear cable down to use on the front.

CargoDane

Erm, in mud and snow, hydraulics shine over wired "things" needing to slide inside hoses (be it gears or brakes). And discs shine even more over rim brakes - especially in mud.
Even "mud bikes" are usually used on asphalt too. Hell, I use Saints DH brakes on my bike. You can never have too much stopping power.

TiHabanero

Rotor warp from heat. Sometimes it can be trued out, other times not and you just deal with it or replace it.

BenBoozer

I have a very similar issue with the front brake on my 3 month old Domane SL5 with 105 components. When releasing the front lever, neither it or the pads retracted correctly. I could push the lever with my finger back to the starting position which also moved the pads off the rotor. Shimano said it was an issue with the master cylinder and is sending out a new brake lever for the LBS to replace under warranty. I suggest you have your shop do some more digging before your warranty expires.

rbrides

I suppose it could. I don't know.

rbrides

I would not feel comfortable putting grease that near the pads and disc. The potential for it to get on the brakes is risky, in my opinion.

CargoDane

Can you swap the hoses (only at the levers) so the left one activates the rear and vice versa and then bleed them? If it's now the other wheel doing it, you have your answer.

rbrides

The rotors are slightly out-of-true and I've trued them with the Park Tool. maybe just not enough.

ridelikeaturtle

We're talking about applying a thin layer with your finger, not lobbing it on from across the room.

You can also smear copper anti-seize onto the back of the pads, to help stop them from squealing. Again, a thin layer.

rbrides

Thanks for clarifying.