Is this crank toast?
#1
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Is this crank toast?
I am working on a mid-80s Peugeot. There is play in the crank where shown by the arrows. Is there any way to fix this, or is the crank arm shot?
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If the swage between the arm and the spider has become loose it's effectively toast; with the same tooling and press as used to make it it might be fixable, but who has that.
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How much play is there? You could try peening the swage to tighten it up; however it's probably a better idea to scrap it. Sooner or later, you'll find yourself trying to get though an intersection with both crank arms in the 6 o'clock position. Better vintage cranks are not that expensive. French ones are a bit harder to find, though.
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How much play is there? You could try peening the swage to tighten it up; however it's probably a better idea to scrap it. Sooner or later, you'll find yourself trying to get though an intersection with both crank arms in the 6 o'clock position. Better vintage cranks are not that expensive. French ones are a bit harder to find, though.
If it slips what happens is pedal, no go.
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Perhaps not. See: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post18816801
I remember it well - I was first in line at a left turn lane. When I got the green arrow I attempted my usual explosive acceleration so I could get through the intersection and into the bike lane without holding up the cars behind me. Instead, I got half a revolution of the crank and then suddenly both legs were at 6 o'clock and I had no propulsion. I had to dismount and walk through the intersection while the cars behind me laughed and sneered.
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Perhaps not. See: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post18816801
And as axles can and do break, I suspect that this is what happened; that the crank was swaged may only be relevant to the point that such cranks are usually built to a lower price-point and their axles may thus be more prone to failure - which may have been the OP's (indirect) point.
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Cheap bb spindles can and do fail on occasion. This one let go just as I accelerated onto the main road after ascending from the American River Canyon.
Thankfully not a complete break, and I was able to soft-pedal the two miles to the ride's start/finish!
Thankfully not a complete break, and I was able to soft-pedal the two miles to the ride's start/finish!
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There is a peugeot branded stronglight crank for sale in the C&V for sale forum.
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Looks nothing like toast. But since going low carb, I haven’t seen a slice in months —-
—— but even if I drizzled melted Kerrygold Irish butter all over it, - that still looks like a damaged crank arm not worth salvaging- whether for a bike or for breakfast
—— but even if I drizzled melted Kerrygold Irish butter all over it, - that still looks like a damaged crank arm not worth salvaging- whether for a bike or for breakfast
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French toast.
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Anyone ever try to have one Tigged?
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This is toast those are cranks. Those cranks are probably not one I would want to ride on but not toast, do not eat.
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That's a Stronglight 5470 crankset that's a look-alike for the Stronglight 104. The 104 was a solid spider, not swaged and the chainrings are fully interchangeable.
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Cheers, mate.
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I had that same crank on a late 80s UO10 and it started to loosen up then the drive side crank arm broke right in half.Never saw that before.Very low miles
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Post a pic of the other side. Strong possible I may have a replacement I can send over. Can't tell if it's one of the Nervar arms or if it's one of the Peugeot-branded Stronglight cranks, although I don't think the latter came in swaged format. I can't recall which ones were swaged otoh.
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#19
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I am not one to give up on bike parts without trying to fix them. If it was me that had this issue I would put the arm on a solid surface and find a socket or pipe that is just a little smaller than the crank arm flange on the back of the arm and give it a good whack with a sledge hammer to see if it would tighten up. Once I tried that and found out that it didn't work (most likely result) I would toss it.
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FWIW, @marius.suiram has a Peugeot-branded Stronglight 104 crank in the "For Sale": forum:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21934227
This is a one-piece (not swaged) crank; not sure if it is forged or cast, but either way a step up from the failed swaged crank.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21934227
This is a one-piece (not swaged) crank; not sure if it is forged or cast, but either way a step up from the failed swaged crank.
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I am not one to give up on bike parts without trying to fix them. If it was me that had this issue I would put the arm on a solid surface and find a socket or pipe that is just a little smaller than the crank arm flange on the back of the arm and give it a good whack with a sledge hammer to see if it would tighten up. Once I tried that and found out that it didn't work (most likely result) I would toss it.
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#22
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It's done. That's it. That's all. Done deal. Be good. Have fun.
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I think it's not wise, but unlike many welders, I will tell you why. The alloys may be different between the crank arm and the spider, and either or both might be "not weldable" alloys. You _could_ weld them, but they wouldn't have much strength due to the way the metal grain precipitates after welding. I'm guessing a crack would start somewhere.
If I ever have access to tig equipment again, I'm happy to try!!
If I ever have access to tig equipment again, I'm happy to try!!
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I think it's not wise, but unlike many welders, I will tell you why. The alloys may be different between the crank arm and the spider, and either or both might be "not weldable" alloys. You _could_ weld them, but they wouldn't have much strength due to the way the metal grain precipitates after welding. I'm guessing a crack would start somewhere.
If I ever have access to tig equipment again, I'm happy to try!!
If I ever have access to tig equipment again, I'm happy to try!!