spinnanz

Here is my almost complete conversion to a 1973/74 Raleigh. Aim is to have a cheap 25kph cruiser/commuter bike. Total spend is around £200.

Doc_Wui

Classic lines, I see you went to a new rim up front. How do the old brakes/cables work? On my 24 year old bike, they were so rusty, all the lever force was lost, so I replaced everything. Does £200 include the battery?

spinnanz

New rim up front too. As much as I didn't ​​​​​​​want a modern rims, I wanted miss-matched rims even less. The internal cables are all being replaced, but retaining the original white outer. The brake pads sat a few mm too low even in their highest position on the caliper so I moved both calipers up 10mm or so on the frame/fork. Both calipers were pulled apart, hit with a wire brush and put back together again.

I wanted to avoid a modern throttle and wires up front so the original 3 speed gear leaver was removed (new rear hub is single speed) and a 1980s era Shimano grip shift fitted. The grip shift pulls a cable which is routed to an electronic throttle on the pannier bag

The battery is included in the price however it was free faulty battery which was 72v 10ah which I repacked to make a 36v 20ah.

Robert C

I wouldn't suggest it. I do not see any front brakes. The front is where most braking occurs and with the higher speeds, improved braking is essential.

You could retain the lines by installing drum brakes in the front. Drum brakes are also an easy, home mechanic, install.

That is the biggest issue that stands out. Of course, a full servicing, particularly headset bearing would be essential. The back breaks don't look great. However, so little braking force is in the rear, it is a non-issue.

If those were addressed, it will be a good looking bike. I am not sure if the forks and geometry are ideal if not, the drive and battery parts are easily swappable. I do see it is a fun project.

spinnanz

Too late, I've done it! Pictures were takes earlier in the build so they are pre-sorting of the brakes.

The brakes are the original calipers, with modern pads, now gripping onto modern alloy rims. As much and a front drum or disk would have better stopping power, they are not suitable for these forks as drums/disks place torque on the end of a single fork leg, this WILL bend it. The original caliper placement will only put force just below the headstock.

"Speed" shouldnt be an issue, This was a 3 speed bike (rear hub gears). With being converted to electric rear hub, its a single speed bike now. As such, the motor geared to max out at around 25kph/15mph. This is pretty close to the achievable top speed of the bike in original form, so really no extra braking is required.

PreacherG

Looks real nice! I am refurbing my DW 70's Moosburg 3 speed. Amazing how a little brushing can shine the calipers! I am keeping the rims, but new tubes and tires, new brake pads, and breaking down, clean and lube everything, including cables. When I get done, she will probably want an e bike like mine!

Robert C

Sounds like you are enjoying your project, that is the important part

spinnanz

I was a bit miffed I had to get rid of the 3 speed in my conversion. Cant win them all though!

spinnanz

Very quiet!

Unvex

That is an excellent job. I'm looking to do the same with a single speed cruiser and want to keep the look. I want to go with a rear hub motor, what did you use?

spinnanz

the rear wheel is from a EasyMotion EasyGoRace. For a even more factory look I'd have kept the factory front wheel and had the electric hub laced to the original rear rim, but the 700c wheels roll REALLY nicely.

Average speed of my 18-22km commute is 30kph.

spartan_262

love it. very nice.

BattMan

Nice work! It does not look like a new ebike.

I like the vintage shifter converted to throttle. I feel inspired for my own build.

spinnanz

I took a decent ride this weekend, 18km of road riding and a few km of trails. Couldn't be happier with how the bike goes!