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An I friction shifting wrong

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An I friction shifting wrong

Old 03-11-21, 01:42 PM
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robertj298 
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An I friction shifting wrong

When I shift from the large ring to the small ring my shifts are very smooth. Shifting from the small to large ring, not so much.
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Old 03-11-21, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by robertj298
When I shift from the large ring to the small ring my shifts are very smooth. Shifting from the small to large ring, not so much.
Lotsa factors -- do you have a pic of the setup?
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Old 03-11-21, 02:05 PM
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my money is on a worn large chain ring....and/or stretched chain
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Old 03-11-21, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by noobinsf
Lotsa factors -- do you have a pic of the setup?
Just your basic Suntour
Cyclone and Superbe derailleurs and downtube shifters
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Old 03-11-21, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by robertj298
Just your basic Suntour
Cyclone and Superbe derailleurs and downtube shifters
Sizes of chainrings and condition of chain rings would be helpful in diagnosing this problem.
Could also be a chainline problem.
Brent
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Old 03-11-21, 02:28 PM
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a wise philosopher is reported to have said "The secret to happiness is low expectations".

Since I'm very accustomed to my vintage bikes, I expect that shifting to the big ring will be a bit slower and more tentative than shifting to the small ring.
My bikes don't have chainrings with pins and ramps that make modern hardware shift quicker and easier. The poor derailleur has to just shove the chain against the big ring and pray that it ends up on the ring's teeth (and doesn't go past).

Of course, technique does make a difference. As with most shifting, things work better if you don't pedal hard during the shift. How much experience do you have with friction shifting?

There might also be issues with the position or orientation of the front derailleur. Photos would certainly help!

Steve in Peoria
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Old 03-11-21, 02:36 PM
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I've never had a friction shifting setup where I felt the upshift to be as smooth as the downshift... To go to the small ring you're literally knocking off and dropping the chain in front while simultaneously releasing tension on the rear derailleur spring lower spring. To upshift you're forcefully pushing the chain up into position with the the front derailleur cage and creating tension on the rear derailleur when the chain tightens up. I can't imagine how out why it should be as smooth in the one direction as the other. Maybe that's a poor assumption, though!

-Gregory
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Old 03-11-21, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988
I've never had a friction shifting setup where I felt the upshift to be as smooth as the downshift... To go to the small ring you're literally knocking off and dropping the chain in front while simultaneously releasing tension on the rear derailleur spring lower spring. To upshift you're forcefully pushing the chain up into position with the the front derailleur cage and creating tension on the rear derailleur when the chain tightens up. I can't imagine how out why it should be as smooth in the one direction as the other. Maybe that's a poor assumption, though!

-Gregory
this is what i was going to allude to, but given his list of bikes i though he should already be aware of this. it is a good point, though
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Old 03-11-21, 02:46 PM
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I'm sorry I didn't state my original post right. It's not the chainring is is the rear freewheel
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Old 03-11-21, 02:49 PM
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what kind of freewheel? what's the gearing on it? how long have you had this? how long has the shifting been poor? need pics and/or details to help at all
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Old 03-11-21, 02:52 PM
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robertj298 Take a picture of the RD on the smallest and largest sprocket. There are a number of variables that can contribute to the problem.
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Old 03-11-21, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by robertj298
I'm sorry I didn't state my original post right. It's not the chainring is is the rear freewheel
Although the factors aren't as great as on the front, the points made earlier about working with or against gravity and spring tension still apply. Shifting to a smaller cog with tend to be easier/smoother. That said, with parts in good condition, well lubricated, and properly adjusted, it shouldn't be a battle going either way.
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Old 03-11-21, 02:57 PM
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No ramps and pins means no modern smooth transition
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Old 03-11-21, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Germany_chris
No ramps and pins means no modern smooth transition
come to find out, he's talking about his freewheel/rear shifting.
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Old 03-11-21, 07:30 PM
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The trick to friction shifting from a smaller rear cog to larger cog is to ease off pedaling pressure for just a moment while shifting. Feel for the slight resistance as the chain encounters the side of the larger cog. Resume pedaling pressure and nudge the lever very slightly to complete the shift. Trim as needed.

Practice very deliberately at first. Stop pedaling and coast, shift up from smaller to larger cog. Feel for the resistance. Resuming pedaling gently to complete the shift.

After a little practice it'll become intuitive. You won't need to stop pedaling. It's comparable to learning how to use a clutch with a manual transmission.

The shorter the cable, the better the feel. I find my bike with bar end shifters a bit finicky in friction mode, and mostly I rely on muscle memory of the shift lever throw. On my bike with downtube shifters the feel is more palpable.
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Old 03-11-21, 08:26 PM
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I just have to apologize for the typos in my previous post, which was already quoted. I wrote it in a drive thru during my break. Ha.

I think in the case of a rear derailleur most of the same logic still applies, as mentioned above by others!

-Gregory
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