2manybikes

Not necessarily, When I lost weight, I also lost fat where I sit on the saddle. Now my sit bones have almost no padding, I'm sitting right on the bones. Now I wear two bike shorts. It works. I had very little padding there to start with.

scwowgph

Selle anatomica for me...have a
brooks imperial, but prefer the SA

NOS88

Saddle comfort for me is based on a number of things. For upright riding with more weight on the seat and less on the arms, I prefer a wider saddle and currently use an older model Specialized. For semi-up right (my commuter and touring bikes) I use the Selle Anatomica Titanico. For the remainder of my road bikes I use Selle Italia SLK Get saddles (I bought six of them before they stopped making them). I've owned two Brooks (B-17 and Team Pro) both were adequate, but were not universally suited to all the kinds of riding I do. While your buddies may love a given saddle, his or her anatomy, bike position and even body mechanics may be different enough from yours to give you an entirely different impression.

AAZ

I have both SMP Selle (glider) and Brooks (B17) saddles.
I use the SMP Selle on two road bikes and I think it is terrific. The hammock design (if you have one you know what I mean) fits by anatomy very well. It gets less comfortable when I ride on very bumpy roads.
I have Brooks on a sports touring and touring bike, and find it quite comfortable.

I needed to replace the saddle of a recent acquisition that I will use as a commuter. It is a vintage touring bike - heavy, 28mm tires, with a geometry that has me in an upright position.
I chose the SMP Selle TRK. I don't have many rides in yet, but so far am very satisfied. The fit is very similar to the glider, but the extra cushioning helps me tolerate the surfaces of the city streets.

Rowan

Yep! Good luck with trying that with just about any other saddle.

I've just fitted yet another Brooks B17 to a new bike, my Bike Friday Pocket Llama. The saddle is the Ti version -- expensive but light for travel purposes. Rides so far have been perfect.

I have Brooks on my old touring bike, new touring bike, Ti (Ti B17), CF (Ti Swallow), the Bike Friday, the tandem and fixed gear. (All these bikes except the BF which I took delivery of a week ago, have done centuries or longer).

There's also another older B17 floating about waiting to be installed on one of my other bikes. Plus I have a huge sprung leather saddle that is on the old postman's bike I have and intend to renovate. Machka has Brooks on all her rides.

A lot of my B17s have been bought used from eBay. It's the way of the world. I also usually wait for the sales and specials on Wiggle or Chain Reaction Cycles to buy the Ti-framed saddles.

I do have an expensive little but very light CF saddle that will go on the CF bike for triathlon purposes when I get around to doing those events. And my MTB has a Terry saddle that came with the tandem as standard, but it is only just tolerable and is likely to be replaced, too.

There are techniques for easing the break-in periods for Brooks saddles. I've stayed away from any that involve applications of dressings except for Proofide. However, I did pick up a water-based one on the Road forum that has worked very well for the more stubborn leather and won't ruin the saddles.

dmanthree

I've tried every manner of "modern" saddle that exists, but I'm only comfortable on a Brooks B17 Imperial. VERY subjective subject, so you need to find what works for you, but don't eliminate the Brooks because they're "hard."

big chainring 

I really like leather saddles. I tend to find obscure French ones on the bay. Also Wrights saddles are nice. If you go the leather saddle route then sew-ups should be a consideration too. Go for the whole cycling experience.

kingston 

I picked up a berthoud aspin earlier this year. I only have about a thousand miles on it, but I like it so far.

Dolanarc1

This one is a Raleigh TI team issue from the early 80's, fantastic comfort,

It was actually form fitted to my @ss,

tcs

Brooks is hardly the only tensioned leather saddle manufacturer.

Persons
Selle Anatomica
Berthoud
Tops
Selle Monte Grappa


Gyes
Cardiff, made by Gyes
Velo Orange, made by Gyes
Zimbale, made by Gyes
Rivet, made my Gyes


Torelli
Dia Compe
Spa
Papillionaire


Lepper (out of business?)
Ideale - definitely out of business


No connection to any retailers mentioned, examples only. There are plenty of places to get any of these.


(I suspect the Torelli, Dia Compe, Spa, and Papillionaire saddles are also manufactured to specification by Gyes.)


I started riding tensioned leather saddles in 1979 and have since. I currently own, ride and like my Brooks Pro, two Persons #77 Deluxes, a Selle Anatomica Titanico NSX Watershed (NOT a split saddle, unlike other Selle Anatomica models) and a Gyes GS17A. I'm unimpressed with the construction of the lower frame of the Tops tensioned leather saddle I have.

MileHighMark

I have Selle Anatomica saddles on all but one of my bikes (the 29er). I'm a huge fan of the SA saddles, but some folks don't get on with the saddles' increased flexibility.

vic303

I've had two saddles I have found completely comfortable on a non-recumbent road bike.
One was the Selle San Marco Pirelli, which I ended up selling with my old Masi.
The other is a Brooks Professional, salvaged from the attic at my in-laws. I had to spend some time rehydrating the leather, but now that it is supple again, the saddle is extremely comfortable--almost as comfortable as my recumbents.

gabedad

Selle Anatomica Titanico X for me on both my bikes - Love the saddle. Super comfy - no break in

LDier

I love the Brooks B17. Hits the sit bones just right. And they look so cool!!!!!!!

Duane Behrens

That's because they were so far out in front of you that you couldn't see them. So it's true. You weren't riding with them. :--)

My Brooks B17 was comfortable out of the box. The Romin saddle on my Tarmac intrudes after 30 miles. The Brooks intrudes after . . . well, it DOESN'T intrude actually. Or if it does, a second or two of standing up on the pedals is good for another ten to 20 miles.

Don't underestimate the comfort of leather. After all . . . how many cowboys ride on vinyl?

jwarner

I think it totally depends on your butt, your tastes, and how you want to use it. I have two B-17's, one I hand cut and laced to almost nothing that I've had for a probably 10-15 years (it is the leather thong of saddles ), and one B-67.

I hear people complain about their durability, all of mine look just fine (really nice actually), and I am very car-light, to point of being practically car free, so mine see rain, sun, and snow every day. I even wash them when I wash whatever bike they are on, which can be once or twice a week (I'm sort of particular). I usually wax my bikes too.. and when I do, I just go ahead and wax the saddle too. It hasn't seemed to hurt them at all. I do keep a saddle cover in my rain jacket to keep the rain off the saddle when I stop for groceries or something.

Personally, I've never found a saddle I like more, provided it is set-up right (slightly nose up, not overly loose or tight -- one shouldn't really have to mess too much with the tension screw... at least I haven't, but then I am fairly light). I also think that one should fit saddle to how it will be used. The B-67 is on my more upright Bianchi set up as a light commuter, the uncut B-17 on my touring rig, and the cut and laced B-17 on my fixed gear. I have a Salsa Mukluk on order, not sure what is getting yet, but know the stock WTB seat has to go. I might try a Cambium.

Terex

And don't disparage other posters recounting their actual experience.

tjkoko

Please post a photo of your cut and laced B-17 saddle.

Duane Behrens

Your quote "I've never ridden with a strong rider who uses [a Brooks saddle] "

was, to me, an implied dismissal of the thousands of strong riders who DO use one.

If I got that wrong, I apologize.

If I got that RIGHT . . . i.e. if you MEANT to suggest that there are no strong riders on classic, Brooks-saddled bicycles - then your statement is absolutely false. It dismisses and insults the multitude of riders who train and even race on classic bikes. And it deserved comment.

Don't bother replying with "I was just recounting personal experience." Every post has a point. Your point was as clear as it was erroneous. Thanks. DB

Gerryattrick

Wow. Didn't realise there was a saddle manufacturer named after my home town Cardiff. I have spent a few evenings in all the pubs mentioned on the website, especially the Owain Glyndwr.

Jinkster

I've not yet owned a brooks (or any other "Tension Adjustable Leather Hammock" style seat) but it's occurred to me that...

1. "Proper Fitment" is key closely followed by...

2. "Proper Shape" (which for me is just wide enough in the back to fully support sit-bones yet narrow enough in the front to avert chaffing)

3. "Proper Adjustment" (is also key)

Note: and I believe it's the brooks (and others like them) "ability to flex and conform" that makes the three key elements cited above less critical.

4. "No Sharp Edges" (I like a seat with well radiused skirts which brooks and others like them seem to have)

and I believe it is all of the above that make owners of brooks (type) saddles so endeared by them.

That said?...they are also the reasons I haven't bought and/or tried one (yet)...as my thinking states that I'd rather have a saddle that's more defined in letting my butt know whether it's properly fitted, shaped and adjusted which is also where I found great value in "Not Wearing Padded Bike Shorts" when adjusting such saddles as it's by wearing thin, non-padded shorts and test riding that also lets me know when I've hit that sweet angle...I've also found that in the higher end seats?...a certain amount of "Flexion" has been engineered and designed into them which (I might imagine much like the brooks) does exhibit a slight amount of pressure deflection as I pedal...but I also think this is where the brooks type saddles may have a bit of a leg up as they are "Tension Adjustable" to suit a variety of rider weights and leg/pedal strengths as I discovered along the way that the stronger my legs and pedaling gets?...the less of an issue the saddle becomes.

But I know this is a hot topic and I'm rather new back at this but I do love my new romin evo and figured I'd share my thoughts and observations thusfar.

Pedal on Gentlefolk and L8R, Bill.

bikemig 

Useful post with great links, . Thanks.

jwarner

I'm not much of a photographer, and somewhat cluttered work shop doesn't seem to help much with image quality, but as requested:



Measuring and cutting:

I cut the saddle down ages ago using a good pair of metal shears (it was on a different bike at the time). To get the cut straight, I used a pair of large dividers, running one leg across the center of the saddle to get a baseline, and then eyeballed from there. After cutting, I used a hardwood dowel to burnish the edge (just rub it back and forth to generate a little heat -- I probably added a little beeswax to the cut edge and burnished some more after I got it looking close to how I wanted it.

Holes and grooves for laces:

The saddle is laced with the laces running horizontally as the saddle sits on the bike. I used a heavy-duty machinist's scratch awl to punch and ream out six equally-spaced holes on each side of the saddle about 1/4 inch from the newly cut and burnished edge. I used a homemade tool (sharpened angle iron) to gouge a small channel and inset the lacing where it passes on the side of the saddle. I cut the holes in this manner because I wanted maximum area for the laces to pull on the saddle, and didn't want laces digging into my thighs. I decided to cut the saddle because the saddle skirts (the places that have the brooks logo embossed on them) were doing just that. I was a little worried about ripping the leather with the laces, but it hasn't been a problem. I cut just above (1/8" maybe) the crown on the Brooks logo on the skirting. I wouldn't cut more.

Lacing:

I originally used leather bootlace (good quality laces from White's Boot Co.) to lace the saddle forming three "X" patterns underneath, but the leather laces would loosen or break after about 1,000 miles or so. It is currently laced with regular old non-leather quality waxed bootlace. This hasn't shown any signs of breaking or wear, and hasn't hurt the saddle. I added the cable ties between the lacing and the rear saddle frame sometime between then and now to tension the top of the saddle a little more towards the horn, and pull the lacing in tighter than I could by hand. None of this is observable unless one flips the bike over.

Saddle Care:

All my Brooks saddles have been initially treated top and bottom with a beeswax and pine tar boot sealant. When I wash and wax the bike, the saddle gets washed and waxed too -- usually with just a good quality Carnuba-based car wax, but occasionally with proofide, or beeswax, or whatever is handy in the shop. I ride them in the rain without a problem, but do put a rain cover on in the rain if I stop and the bike is sitting outside. It comes off when I ride again. If the saddle were to get soaked, I would let it dry out a bit and put some beeswax on it prior to riding again... I've yet to have one get this soaked. Any serious scrapes or gouges get sanded as smooth as possible, colored with brown shoe polish, and waxed. I may have adjusted the saddle tension using the bolt under the horn once, but probably didn't need to. I don't think one usually need to mess with it unless they are sitting on the saddle framework while riding, or they are having some other kind of problem.

For the observant: Yes, I know the brake lever on the bike is a bit lower than one sees on a road bike. It's only on the bike in case I break the chain, and I've never used it except to test it. The position gets it out of my way in all other cases. The fenders also cause a little toe overlap, but I live in a rainy town, like to stay relatively dry, and have not had a problem with it affecting my riding.

jcb3

I had one on my mid-70s UO-8

my dad was a big neatsfoot oil fan for baseball gloves and we repeatedly smeared the stuff into the brooks

it became soft, then it began to stretch, meaning that I had to keep tightening it up.

Eventually it got to looking like Joan Rivers (RIP) - what a mess! - so I'd suggest go lightly on the oil

tcs

You mean, like a Dursley-Pedersen?