Road Fan

Installing the Campy Record BB and 53-39 double on my newly repaired Mondonico frame, and I want to try antiseize. How much di I use.? I’ve read it kind creeps and oozes if you use too much, and becomes messy.

NYMXer

I think that you might mean "Anti Seize", and it is a lubrication paste that is designed to stop corrosion between dissimilar metals. Apply just enough to coat the threads, there isn't a benefit for using more than that. It is designed to allow the parts to come apart after prolonged time tightened together.

fietsbob

I'd stock the pantry with lots of food and water if you are planning a siege defense to be required..

and be concerned if your enemies start flinging heavy stones against the castle walls.

djb

fiets, you are so silly

you forgot to mention a good cache of oil and pitch in barrels to heat up and dump on the beseigers.

now here is a serious question, when using blue loctite, is it really better to put lots on and let it dry before putting a bolt in? My limited experience seems to indicate that it is worth waiting for it to dry, but would like to hear experienced users' views.

fietsbob

there are several types of threadlock, you find the dried dots on bolts that your new bike build may use, But..

the more common type is anaerobic*, you apply it wet, to a clean dry bolt thread, and it compressed cures in the *absence of Air,..

fixedweasel

For me, it depends what I am working on. If it is a cartridge BB, I use Never-Seize. If I am rebuilding a loose ball BB, I use white lithium grease for everything and don't mix the two. You never want Never-Seize to be near any loose ball bearing. I am a huge fan of white lithium and only use thicker grease (Phil/Auto Bearing/etc) if I am building a bike that will get the crap beat out of it by the elements.* I use all my Loc-Tite wet(ter) thread to thread, so they bond/dry together.



*and even my commuter is built up with white lithium on a Sugino 75 loose ball BB in the winters of Chicago with np

djb

Thanks for the explanation, explains why the stuff I've used never has the thick deep blue look when dry like the new part blobs you refer to.

cny-bikeman

I would use enough anti-siege to coat the entire castle.

ThermionicScott 

Yeah, you never want to skimp on the anti-siege.

drlogik 

Wipe some evenly on the thread surface with your finger, clean your finger then wipe most of the excess off leaving just the anti-seize down in the threads. Make sure the threads are very clean and free of oil, grease, etc. before you apply it.

If you put too much on as you thread the BB on it can push the excess into the BB shell...which isn't the end of the world but better not to do that.

Road Fan

I shoulda got the cargo bike , huh?

Road Fan

I deserve all that for letting my iPhone handle the proofreading!

cb400bill

Thread title fixed.

davidad

We used the copper based anti seize in the refinery on steel bolts. Be careful with it as it seems to multiply and cover more than you intended.

Kontact 

If you put a pea size amount on the cup only, it won't get into the inside of the BB as you thread it in. It will get inside the BB if you put it on the the frame threads.

Dan Burkhart 

Spoil sport.

djb

aw man, we were having fun! chuckle.

re the copper based anti seize stuff, a few years ago I bought a jar of this type of stuff as the old 20 yr old heavy grease bottle finally got finished. This new stuff is way thicker than the old, and Ive used it on various bolts and whatnot on my bikes and cars, and it seems to have better anti vibration characteristics just because it is so thick, BUT as the other fellow said, it is pretty messy to deal with and hard to get off stuff.

Ive used Phils bearing grease when Ive done bb work and it seems to me the better choice, partly because it has worked fine for me, and also its the same stuff I use on bearings anyway, so I might be wrong, but it may be better using the same stuff if it gets into the area with bearings.

the thick copper stuff does however seem to stay put pretty well, and I find a small amount goes a long way on threads. I used to put too much on bolt threads and just got myself all dirty and excess that would mess up other stuff.

Iride01 

Where are you putting the anti seize? It's not intended to be a lubricant for moving parts like bearings. It's intended for things like screw threads that you don't want to seize together due to galling when tightening or from heat and/or corrosion.

So using it on the lock nut threads is fine. But for your bearings, I'd stick to a good grease. But even if you do fill your BB with it, you likely won't hurt it, unless you can spin at a couple thousand rpm.

ThermionicScott 

Italian-threaded BB shell.

Kontact 

Generally folks are concerned about the DS unthreading on Italian, so they use Loctite, not anti-seize.

Iride01 

how do you figure that?

The facts from the OP as I know them are Campy Record BB on a Mondonico frame.

I'll assume you know Mondonico frames are always Italian threaded. I don't know so I'll take your word for it.

But that still leaves several places the anti-seize can be placed. One of which I don't recommend, the bearings and inside of the cups where the bearings ride. For the threads of the cups or the bolts to hold the cranks on, anti-seize might be appropriate.

As for what type anti-seize, likely doesn't matter. I've always used nickle anti-seize. It's always done what it's supposed to no matter where I've put it. It also withstands the most heat, IE. for studs on your exhaust manifold.....not that any of you should have an exhaust manifold on your bicycle. It'd be a dead giveaway to the race officials that you are motor-doping.

ThermionicScott 

That's fair. I should have just said "the bottom bracket threads" and quit while I was ahead.

Road Fan

Thanks, Bill, but it WAS fun!!

Road Fan

thanks!

And the BB is a sealed cartridge, so there’s not even an option of greasing bearing balls and races with the anti-seize.

Road Fan

Frame is Italian steel and it has Italien threading. I’ve always used grease to install these in the past, and tightened to the Campy (“Record” in this case implies Campagnolo) specs with a torque wrench. BBs unthreading has not been an issue for me. I think I’ll stick with grease for installation.