ISO and for trade thread part 5
#5501
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mountaindave
rccardr
I have a 7370 hub.
so far I gave not investigated what tool I need to get the cassette body removed.
rccardr
I have a 7370 hub.
so far I gave not investigated what tool I need to get the cassette body removed.
Here's a link to the EV for that hub:
https://si.shimano.com/en/manual/sea...odel=FH-7370-R
If you look at the EV, the hub body shows a short hollow tube/bushing protruding from the hub body where the freehub female splines are located. Nowhere does the EV show a mounting bolt that would thread into the hub body to secure the freehub.
I think - but I have to say that I'm not completely positive - that the presence of that tube/bushing and absence of any mounting bolt means this hub has one of the 1st generation Uniglide freehubs. These first generation UG freehubs were apparently held on to the hub body by a combination of press fit, the axle, and the axle bearings/locknuts. You have to replace these with another freehub with a similar interface. And while standard 34.6mm threaded Uniglide hubs of this type were made (5- and 6-speed, I think), I don't believe any UG/HG versions were ever made.
I will shortly have the tool (more precisely, two copies of the tool) used to remove and replace these freehubs. One may join the group called the "Bike Forums C&V Traveling Toolburies" at some point in the future. But removing the existing freehub won't be much help if you don't have a suitable replacement.
Best strategy here might be to get a 7-speed HG cassette, disassemble same (saving all the cogs and spacers), and file down the wide spline on the 6 largest cogs. Then obtain two UG outer cogs of the suitable type for your hub (the second for a spare; dunno if that one uses 32mm or 34.6mm threads for the outer cog) and run with those sprockets on your existing hub.
Maybe someone who's dealt with this issue in the past can help out here?
Last edited by Hondo6; 01-06-23 at 04:50 PM.
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#5502
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ISO for a 7spd UniGlide Cassette - for much less than what they are asking of eekBay. . . . or ThirdHand LostScrews.
- I'm up for suggestions on upgrading, like buying a new cassette body and going with HyperGlide. Which is what I think is going to happen. (man, this DuraAce hubset is costing me. i am too much of a cheapskate for proper C&V)
- I'm up for suggestions on upgrading, like buying a new cassette body and going with HyperGlide. Which is what I think is going to happen. (man, this DuraAce hubset is costing me. i am too much of a cheapskate for proper C&V)
You may be better off looking for individual cassette cogs. Could be less expensive in the long run. I have a handful of new ones but not in a series to make up a correct cassette.
If you're looking to fill a DA 7 speed freehub, you likely already know that the first position cog has a smaller internal threaded diameter than other UG cogs. Finding that could be difficult.
8 speed 7403 hubs (which will also take 9 & 10 speed cassettes) that take HG cogs and a lock ring are out there, but they are expensive.
Additionally, 740X freehubs 1) attach to the hub in a completely different way than any other Shimano freehub, and 2) require a special tool that is hard to find and costs as much as a correct freehub. There are home-made removers posted here by previous forum members, would be worth searching if you are going in that direction.
Ultimately, my suggestion to folks who are interested in 740X groups is to go all in and buy the tools and spares, or not at all. DA 7700 is every bit as nice cosmetically and is compatible with pretty much everything else Shimano up thru 10 speed. Alternatively, you can use 7700 hubs (which are HG) for any 6-7-8-9-10 speed cassette and which will work just fine with 740X.
If you're looking to fill a DA 7 speed freehub, you likely already know that the first position cog has a smaller internal threaded diameter than other UG cogs. Finding that could be difficult.
8 speed 7403 hubs (which will also take 9 & 10 speed cassettes) that take HG cogs and a lock ring are out there, but they are expensive.
Additionally, 740X freehubs 1) attach to the hub in a completely different way than any other Shimano freehub, and 2) require a special tool that is hard to find and costs as much as a correct freehub. There are home-made removers posted here by previous forum members, would be worth searching if you are going in that direction.
Ultimately, my suggestion to folks who are interested in 740X groups is to go all in and buy the tools and spares, or not at all. DA 7700 is every bit as nice cosmetically and is compatible with pretty much everything else Shimano up thru 10 speed. Alternatively, you can use 7700 hubs (which are HG) for any 6-7-8-9-10 speed cassette and which will work just fine with 740X.
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#5503
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Looks to me like a large hole first cog. Ask the seller to measure the ID on the 12 tooth.
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Ok, so not DA, which requires a smaller ID first cog. The rest will fit, tho.
Did check my cog stash and have a complete NOS large hole 6 speed cassette of 13-15-17-19-21-24. Not DA, but new.
Did check my cog stash and have a complete NOS large hole 6 speed cassette of 13-15-17-19-21-24. Not DA, but new.
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#5506
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rccardr I'll message you about your NOS 6spd. Looking at SheldonBrown's cassette crib sheet, I think the overall width might be an issue.
shoota - I'll message you: Do you have the spacers for 7 speed? Looks like 1/3 of a Hand - Lost Screw has the thread on cogs (13t and 14t) for about eBays price.
Thanks everyone else for your comments. BikeForums keeps proving to be a deep well of good helpful info!
A couple other comments: - why did I scoop up this hubset: the rear spacing on my TREK420 is 126mm. I've got a 600 Arabesque group on the bike (less the crankset & headset...). So I thought the hubs would compliment everything pretty easily, and free up the wheelset on the bike for something else.
Ans I've got a Dura Ace crankset I am planning to install - so it'd be nearly all SHIMANO. I'll get there eventually, where ever it is I'm going.
shoota - I'll message you: Do you have the spacers for 7 speed? Looks like 1/3 of a Hand - Lost Screw has the thread on cogs (13t and 14t) for about eBays price.
Thanks everyone else for your comments. BikeForums keeps proving to be a deep well of good helpful info!
A couple other comments: - why did I scoop up this hubset: the rear spacing on my TREK420 is 126mm. I've got a 600 Arabesque group on the bike (less the crankset & headset...). So I thought the hubs would compliment everything pretty easily, and free up the wheelset on the bike for something else.
Ans I've got a Dura Ace crankset I am planning to install - so it'd be nearly all SHIMANO. I'll get there eventually, where ever it is I'm going.
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Here's the odd request of the week. Building up a 1970-ish Carlton Corsa and come to learn, that it likely came with a 25.48 Sturmey Archer seat pin. I have a 25.4, but it just gets swallowed. If anyone happens to have one that's available, I'd rather do that than do the e-Bay thing from the UK.
Cheers,
Z
Cheers,
Z
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Z,
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
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Here's the odd request of the week. Building up a 1970-ish Carlton Corsa and come to learn, that it likely came with a 25.48 Sturmey Archer seat pin. I have a 25.4, but it just gets swallowed. If anyone happens to have one that's available, I'd rather do that than do the e-Bay thing from the UK.
Cheers,
Z
Cheers,
Z
#5510
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Z,
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
What's the diameter you need? Not sure what I have at the moment as I was doing a clearance some time ago. I think I have NOS SR Laprade in 26.8, might have some steel ones with separate saddle clamp. Might have some other aluminium ones, but would have to check. Shipping would be from the UK.
Thanks,
Z
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#5511
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Brass seat post shims were popular at the time.
#5512
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Here's the odd request of the week. Building up a 1970-ish Carlton Corsa and come to learn, that it likely came with a 25.48 Sturmey Archer seat pin. I have a 25.4, but it just gets swallowed. If anyone happens to have one that's available, I'd rather do that than do the e-Bay thing from the UK.
Cheers,
Z
Cheers,
Z
Any of the cheap, Ebay-sourced 25.6mm Chinese/Taiwanese posts should measure about the same 25.51mm as the one that I bought for my Steyr.
I did find that I had to file away a couple of brass drips from inside of the seat tube lug area using a few swipes of a half-round file.
I later bought a similar 25.6mm post for my Steyr-built 1968 SEARS TEN-SPEED, it measures 25.52mm.
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Want shiny bit for the end of a pump
Just got a nice colour pump to match a bike I painted, but t's missing the aluminium bit that covers the bottom.
Doesn't have to be a Primus, I'm pretty sure one of the bits from an Impero will fit - so I'm looking for either that or a broken/useless pump from which to salvage one.
It actually works fine as is, but the bike it's to go on is quite blingy, and so it would suit:
Doesn't have to be a Primus, I'm pretty sure one of the bits from an Impero will fit - so I'm looking for either that or a broken/useless pump from which to salvage one.
It actually works fine as is, but the bike it's to go on is quite blingy, and so it would suit:
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#5514
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Z,
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
I have an SR Laprade that measures 26.4 and has some oxidized markings on it. I can use the 3M Scotchbrite rough wheel to shave it down by a mm and then give it a satin finish. I would suggest that it get a light coat of clear to keep oxidizing down with the satin finish, but either way it would work. Length is seven inches. Lemme know, Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
What's the diameter you need? Not sure what I have at the moment as I was doing a clearance some time ago. I think I have NOS SR Laprade in 26.8, might have some steel ones with separate saddle clamp. Might have some other aluminium ones, but would have to check. Shipping would be from the UK.
Seatposts are undersized to provide extra clearance in the seat tube clamping area.
Any of the cheap, Ebay-sourced 25.6mm Chinese/Taiwanese posts should measure about the same 25.51mm as the one that I bought for my Steyr.
I did find that I had to file away a couple of brass drips from inside of the seat tube lug area using a few swipes of a half-round file.
I later bought a similar 25.6mm post for my Steyr-built 1968 SEARS TEN-SPEED, it measures 25.52mm.
Any of the cheap, Ebay-sourced 25.6mm Chinese/Taiwanese posts should measure about the same 25.51mm as the one that I bought for my Steyr.
I did find that I had to file away a couple of brass drips from inside of the seat tube lug area using a few swipes of a half-round file.
I later bought a similar 25.6mm post for my Steyr-built 1968 SEARS TEN-SPEED, it measures 25.52mm.
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#5515
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Just got a nice colour pump to match a bike I painted, but t's missing the aluminium bit that covers the bottom.
Doesn't have to be a Primus, I'm pretty sure one of the bits from an Impero will fit - so I'm looking for either that or a broken/useless pump from which to salvage one.
It actually works fine as is, but the bike it's to go on is quite blingy, and so it would suit:
Doesn't have to be a Primus, I'm pretty sure one of the bits from an Impero will fit - so I'm looking for either that or a broken/useless pump from which to salvage one.
It actually works fine as is, but the bike it's to go on is quite blingy, and so it would suit:
The shipping, even for such a small and lightweight parcel, could kill the thrill!
But if you don't find one from somebody in country, LMK and I'll make a search
#5516
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Campy Record rear hub dust cap..
Anyone have a spare Campagnolo Record hub (rear, small-flange) dust cap? My calipers are cheap Harbor Freight junk, so I'm not sure the measurements are 100% accurate, but...
OD 27.8mm
ID 17mm
Thx!
OD 27.8mm
ID 17mm
Thx!
#5517
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ehcoplex,
Gimme a call I have some. Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
Gimme a call I have some. Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
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Maybe you should Google his number
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If you've been on the internet for "awhile" your info is out there from a more innocent time when we actually published contact info.
#5522
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Folks,
If you punch in my name three page of references about me come up, and I am sure my phone number is in that jumble of stuff. I am a Professional Golfer that specializes in golf club making and golf club fitting. Most of the organizations that I have belonged to as a professional have my information posted on their websites. I know that BF doesn't like to show names and such, but I am pretty easy to find on the net so I may as well just put it out there. Smiles, MH
If you punch in my name three page of references about me come up, and I am sure my phone number is in that jumble of stuff. I am a Professional Golfer that specializes in golf club making and golf club fitting. Most of the organizations that I have belonged to as a professional have my information posted on their websites. I know that BF doesn't like to show names and such, but I am pretty easy to find on the net so I may as well just put it out there. Smiles, MH
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Folks,
If you punch in my name three page of references about me come up, and I am sure my phone number is in that jumble of stuff. I am a Professional Golfer that specializes in golf club making and golf club fitting. Most of the organizations that I have belonged to as a professional have my information posted on their websites. I know that BF doesn't like to show names and such, but I am pretty easy to find on the net so I may as well just put it out there. Smiles, MH
If you punch in my name three page of references about me come up, and I am sure my phone number is in that jumble of stuff. I am a Professional Golfer that specializes in golf club making and golf club fitting. Most of the organizations that I have belonged to as a professional have my information posted on their websites. I know that BF doesn't like to show names and such, but I am pretty easy to find on the net so I may as well just put it out there. Smiles, MH
#5524
Senior Member
ISO early campy ergo group. 8 speed, give or take. Must include brifters/FD/RD. Brakes/HS a plus. Wheelset only if you're in the SF Bay area and can meet. Still early in the build, so the exact group is still up in the air. No need for show pieces, but decent rider condition.
Have lots of parts/frames to trade, plus I work at a co-op and can get some random stuff if need be.
Have lots of parts/frames to trade, plus I work at a co-op and can get some random stuff if need be.
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There's a trick to making a shim from flat stock.
You need a lip on one end to bear on the top of the seat-tube, to keep it from falling down.
The trick is to fold the long edge of the strip - twice usually unless the stock is thick - before forming it into a circle.
With the lip on the outside, of course.
You need a lip on one end to bear on the top of the seat-tube, to keep it from falling down.
The trick is to fold the long edge of the strip - twice usually unless the stock is thick - before forming it into a circle.
With the lip on the outside, of course.
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