Winter Commuting Tips
#26
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Studs are great in icy conditions. Just be aware that while they increase traction on ice, they also reduce traction on dry pavement. It's more of an issue on those early spring days when it's icy on the way to work, but sunny and dry on the way home.
I went down twice last winter, both times because I got way too aggressive around corners in areas where the roads were perfectly clear. It's pretty easy to think, "Wow it's a nice day today", let your guard down and ride like you do in the summer.
I went down twice last winter, both times because I got way too aggressive around corners in areas where the roads were perfectly clear. It's pretty easy to think, "Wow it's a nice day today", let your guard down and ride like you do in the summer.
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#27
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The next thing that has piqued my interest is what bike to ride in the winter. Based off what I've read here I'm less inclined to ride my warm-season drop bar bike, and more inclined to think a cheap old hard-tail mountain bike or all-terrain bike might be the way to go.
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
#28
born again cyclist
my winter beast is an IGH disc brake hybrid. i've equipped it with schwalbe marathon winter studded tires and full fenders.
the IGH is less than ideal (it's an alfine 8 that's lubricated with grease that can get draggy in cold weather), but otherwise it gets the job done.
many winter riders say they prefer a more upright style bike to put more weight on the rear wheel for better traction in slippery/icy/snowy conditions.
my first winter bike was an old hard-tail that i put a rigid fork on; that's probably not a bad starting place for many people.
winter riding can be ridiculously filthy at times (at least in chicago), so whatever bike you choose, i'd highly recommend one that can accommodate full fenders.
the IGH is less than ideal (it's an alfine 8 that's lubricated with grease that can get draggy in cold weather), but otherwise it gets the job done.
many winter riders say they prefer a more upright style bike to put more weight on the rear wheel for better traction in slippery/icy/snowy conditions.
my first winter bike was an old hard-tail that i put a rigid fork on; that's probably not a bad starting place for many people.
winter riding can be ridiculously filthy at times (at least in chicago), so whatever bike you choose, i'd highly recommend one that can accommodate full fenders.
Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-26-16 at 11:11 AM.
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The next thing that has piqued my interest is what bike to ride in the winter. Based off what I've read here I'm less inclined to ride my warm-season drop bar bike, and more inclined to think a cheap old hard-tail mountain bike or all-terrain bike might be the way to go.
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
- 700c tires, I've ridden both and they're noteably better than 26" tires
- Full fenders
- Either a cheaper bike, or an expensive winter specific bike - for what you wrote I'd go with cheaper. I'd point you towards a $400 or so hybrid (new cost). If you can find used great, I'm to lazy to go used to save $150 lol.
Recommend:
- Straight handlebars, for the same reason mountain bikes have straight bars - leverage is much better for dealing with nasty uneven road surfaces.
- I've not seen many people using shocks. The sentiment seems to be that they might be nice if they worked perfectly, but the tend to get gunked up and fall apart in winter riding, and because a lot less effective when it gets real cold anyways, so don't use them.
My 2 cents.
#30
born again cyclist
also, my number one pro tip for winter riding: don't overdress.
you'll be riding a bike and making your own heat energy, you don't need to bundle up like nanook of the north for your average midwest winter day. now, down in the single digits and below zero range, that's when things can get silly, particularly when wind is involved (which it so often is), that's when real protection becomes more necessary.
you'll be riding a bike and making your own heat energy, you don't need to bundle up like nanook of the north for your average midwest winter day. now, down in the single digits and below zero range, that's when things can get silly, particularly when wind is involved (which it so often is), that's when real protection becomes more necessary.
Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-26-16 at 12:35 PM.
#31
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my winter beast is an IGH disc brake hybrid. i've equipped it with schwalbe marathon winter studded tires and full fenders.
the IGH is less than ideal (it's an alfine 8 that's lubricated with grease that can get draggy in cold weather), but otherwise it gets the job done.
the IGH is less than ideal (it's an alfine 8 that's lubricated with grease that can get draggy in cold weather), but otherwise it gets the job done.
I second Steely's comments about the Alfine 8 in wintertime - in weather below 15F the lubricants do become more viscous and require more effort, and the index shifting gets a little wonky. On the other hand, the contained gear package requires far less cleaning and maintenance than a conventional derailleur. When you combine the IGH hub with a centertrack carbon belt you have the ultimate low-maintenance winter setup: no drive train lubrication or cleaning required on my winter commuter these past two winters. I'm going to see about stripping my hub and using thinner lubricants this fall to see if it addresses the viscosity issue.
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#32
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You're off to a good start. I got a ski helmet last year, and it made a huge difference for me. Also, I got a jacket that does NOT make me warm, and this is an asset. Before I am warmed up from my pedaling, I am cool but not cold. Same with my mittens. The clothing needs to release heat when necessary. This is almost as important as retaining heat.
Fenders, yes.
Lights are an entirely different topic, and you should give it a good amount of thought. You will probably be unhappy if you spend too little, but spending a lot on something that doesn't meet your needs isn't any good, either. More light is not necessarily better. It depends on your eyes and your terrain. My headlight and one of my tail lights are dynamo powered. This puts an upper limit on the intensity of my headlight. That's OK for me, because I commute mostly on a bike path which is moderately lit. There are very few very dark spots. I am OK with slowing down to 15 mph when the light is low. In exchange for less light, maintenance of the system is much lower, and I never need to think about it. When the bike rolls, the lights run. On top of those two lights, I use a USB-charged blinky tail light and a spoke light in my rear wheel powered by a watch battery. The latter catches a lot of attention despite the fact that its intensity is low.
Fenders, yes.
Lights are an entirely different topic, and you should give it a good amount of thought. You will probably be unhappy if you spend too little, but spending a lot on something that doesn't meet your needs isn't any good, either. More light is not necessarily better. It depends on your eyes and your terrain. My headlight and one of my tail lights are dynamo powered. This puts an upper limit on the intensity of my headlight. That's OK for me, because I commute mostly on a bike path which is moderately lit. There are very few very dark spots. I am OK with slowing down to 15 mph when the light is low. In exchange for less light, maintenance of the system is much lower, and I never need to think about it. When the bike rolls, the lights run. On top of those two lights, I use a USB-charged blinky tail light and a spoke light in my rear wheel powered by a watch battery. The latter catches a lot of attention despite the fact that its intensity is low.
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#33
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I should add that I'm in New York City where the winters are mild compared with Minneapolis. One day, I want to experience that kind of winter. I can scarcely imagine it. Then again, we have a lot of dampness and rain and temperatures hovering above and below the freezing point, which is pretty miserable in its own way. And we have high winds.
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Studs are great in icy conditions. Just be aware that while they increase traction on ice, they also reduce traction on dry pavement. It's more of an issue on those early spring days when it's icy on the way to work, but sunny and dry on the way home.
I went down twice last winter, both times because I got way too aggressive around corners in areas where the roads were perfectly clear. It's pretty easy to think, "Wow it's a nice day today", let your guard down and ride like you do in the summer.
I went down twice last winter, both times because I got way too aggressive around corners in areas where the roads were perfectly clear. It's pretty easy to think, "Wow it's a nice day today", let your guard down and ride like you do in the summer.
Very Strongly recommend:
- 700c tires, I've ridden both and they're noteably better than 26" tires
- Full fenders
- Either a cheaper bike, or an expensive winter specific bike - for what you wrote I'd go with cheaper. I'd point you towards a $400 or so hybrid (new cost). If you can find used great, I'm to lazy to go used to save $150 lol.
Recommend:
- Straight handlebars, for the same reason mountain bikes have straight bars - leverage is much better for dealing with nasty uneven road surfaces.
- I've not seen many people using shocks. The sentiment seems to be that they might be nice if they worked perfectly, but the tend to get gunked up and fall apart in winter riding, and because a lot less effective when it gets real cold anyways, so don't use them.
My 2 cents.
- 700c tires, I've ridden both and they're noteably better than 26" tires
- Full fenders
- Either a cheaper bike, or an expensive winter specific bike - for what you wrote I'd go with cheaper. I'd point you towards a $400 or so hybrid (new cost). If you can find used great, I'm to lazy to go used to save $150 lol.
Recommend:
- Straight handlebars, for the same reason mountain bikes have straight bars - leverage is much better for dealing with nasty uneven road surfaces.
- I've not seen many people using shocks. The sentiment seems to be that they might be nice if they worked perfectly, but the tend to get gunked up and fall apart in winter riding, and because a lot less effective when it gets real cold anyways, so don't use them.
My 2 cents.
The next thing that has piqued my interest is what bike to ride in the winter. Based off what I've read here I'm less inclined to ride my warm-season drop bar bike, and more inclined to think a cheap old hard-tail mountain bike or all-terrain bike might be the way to go.
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
Another thing to keep in mind is that thinner tires tend to cut through snow where thicker tires tend to ride on it. That often means that my 700c bike with 35c tires is easier to ride in 4" of fluffy snow than my 26" mtb with 2" tires on it. Neither bike will ride through 4"-6" of mashed potatoes. It just doesn't happen.
I suggest going and buying an old rigid MTB from craigslist. Those make GREAT winter bikes. Do it now so you can go through and fix anything needing done to the bike. That way you'll figure out what you want in a winter bike for next year and you won't have spent too much money on it! We sell plenty of bikes at the COOP for around $120-$150 that would make absolutely great winter bikes. On craigslist you can probably score them for $20-$40 cheaper. In all honesty, winter is HARD on bikes. It honestly is. Especially in a place with lots of salt.
I do suggest flat bars, especially on rutted/icy multi use paths...
And yes, definitely, 100% full fenders. Don't buy the bike if it doesn't have adequate clearance for fenders.
Man this thread is becoming a treasure trove of good information. It should be a sticky... in the winter cycling forum...
Last edited by corrado33; 08-26-16 at 02:25 PM.
#35
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I put my experience after some 10 years of all year commuting and 8 of commuting in ice and snow as well, into these three articles. They address how to dress, how to choose tyres and riding style:
Winter cycling Archives - Cycle Gremlin
Of course, good lights and reflective clothing are good for any lower visibility conditions: night, fog, snow, rain...
Winter cycling Archives - Cycle Gremlin
Of course, good lights and reflective clothing are good for any lower visibility conditions: night, fog, snow, rain...
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Chiming in from Atlanta, I don't know about snow and real winters but for freezing rain here's a tip: keep your feet dry. The only foolproof way that I've discovered is: plastic shopping bag over the shoe, tucked in over the sock and covered by a neoprene shoe cover. I sometimes put a strip of duct tape on bottom so that I don't slip as much.
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Looking for some insight, tips, tricks for those who commute during the winter. I will be riding in Minneapolis, MN.
I have never done this before and would like to continue my commute through the winter.
My current bike plans to be an All City Space Horse set up with 35mm Gravel King SKs. I'd like to add fenders, headlight, and possibly a rack, but I don' thave an issue continuing to ride with my back pack. I will convert my SPD pedals over to platform in order to wear a hiking boot. I also plan on wearing my insulated snowboarding helmet along with goggles and a face mask.
What are some things I should also consider in order to make the winter commute as enjoyable as possible? Tips on bike handling, gear, etc?
I have never done this before and would like to continue my commute through the winter.
My current bike plans to be an All City Space Horse set up with 35mm Gravel King SKs. I'd like to add fenders, headlight, and possibly a rack, but I don' thave an issue continuing to ride with my back pack. I will convert my SPD pedals over to platform in order to wear a hiking boot. I also plan on wearing my insulated snowboarding helmet along with goggles and a face mask.
What are some things I should also consider in order to make the winter commute as enjoyable as possible? Tips on bike handling, gear, etc?
If interested, I have a rundown of my winter dress on this Commuting Forum thread, “Cold Commute Selfie."
One other serious hazard I have posted extensively about is fogging eyewear; in particular I wear prescription eyeglasses. See this post, this one, and this one:
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 08-27-16 at 03:52 AM.
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Chiming in from Atlanta, I don't know about snow and real winters but for freezing rain here's a tip: keep your feet dry. The only foolproof way that I've discovered is: plastic shopping bag over the shoe, tucked in over the sock and covered by a neoprene shoe cover. I sometimes put a strip of duct tape on bottom so that I don't slip as much.
This past Monday (12/30/13) I did my 14 mile commute at about 15°F and tried a new set of foot coverings that IMO that kept my feet significantly warmer than usual. In the past I had bought a pair of neon green shoe covers made by Gore-Tex, for wet riding. During the winter, I use platform pedals with toeclips, and my usual footwear is thin and thick socks, running shoes and Totes rubber overshoes. I use plastic bags over my running shoes to put on the Totes more easily (see the sequence below). [Besides for the waterproofing.]
So with the additional Gore-Tex shoe coverings at 15ºF, I did not perceive cold until about mile 10, and I did not feel cold in the sense of permeating the soft tissues of my foot until about mile 12, but it was tolerable. At about mile 12 I have a downhill run of several hundred yards that irreversibly drains the heat from my extremities. The next day at 21ºF, I rode without the Goretex, and started feeling cold at about mile 9 and finished significantly colder at my mile 14 destination than the day before.
So with the additional Gore-Tex shoe coverings at 15ºF, I did not perceive cold until about mile 10, and I did not feel cold in the sense of permeating the soft tissues of my foot until about mile 12, but it was tolerable. At about mile 12 I have a downhill run of several hundred yards that irreversibly drains the heat from my extremities. The next day at 21ºF, I rode without the Goretex, and started feeling cold at about mile 9 and finished significantly colder at my mile 14 destination than the day before.
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 08-26-16 at 06:24 PM.
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Winter riding can be fun, but challenging as you figure out what kit works for you. For myself in Anchorage AK I have had good luck with a 2000 Specialized Rockhopper with Nokian (now Sumi) studded tires 2.3 up front and 2.1 on the rear. My current bike is a 2015 Salsa Fargo and I ran the 2.25 Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro front and rear. The Nokians on the Rockhopper rode better. I also use the Snowcat 44mm wide rims on both bikes to give a bit more width to the tires as most of my route doesn't get plowed. Expect your enroute times to increase and your burritos per mile to increase as well. And sport awesome ice formations on your face covering.
Justin
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#41
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Bicycling conditions around the Twin Cities vary quite a bit. Where will you be riding? Minneapolis is fairly good, St Paul is quite bad. Some suburbs like Shoreview are very good, others poor.
1) Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres are critical regardless of what bike you ride.
2) I did one winter with an external derailleur, never again. There are good reasons why the vast majority in Europe ride IGH. We now ride Workcycles Opafiets (w/ Marathon Winters during winter). Much happier. City Bikes | LocalMile
3) Hands and feet get cold the fastest. Good boots and gloves/mitts are critical. Plan for several pair of gloves/mitts based on temp/wind/sun. For the coldest days I use regular ski mitts rather than bar mitts.
4) Layers are important. Many days you'll warm up quite a bit as you ride but you don't want to start out freezing. If I'm on the chilly side starting out then I'll be comfortable in 3-5 minutes.
5) I don't wear a helmet for daily transportation. Too hot and sweaty in summer and too cold in winter. If helmets were effective then we'd have a lower rate of TBI than The Netherlands, Denmark, and other countries where nobody wears them but we actually have a slightly higher rate of TBI from bicycle crashes. I have 2 or 3 ski hats that do the trick for me with the warmest a lined Columbia.
6) Be rational. If it's below maybe -10f or really windy or snowing hard then I don't ride. We each have our own comfort zones. I'm not a glutton for punishment so my low temp is gradually moving higher for longer trips.
7) Support Minneapolis Bicycle Coalition
8) Read streets.mn
1) Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres are critical regardless of what bike you ride.
2) I did one winter with an external derailleur, never again. There are good reasons why the vast majority in Europe ride IGH. We now ride Workcycles Opafiets (w/ Marathon Winters during winter). Much happier. City Bikes | LocalMile
3) Hands and feet get cold the fastest. Good boots and gloves/mitts are critical. Plan for several pair of gloves/mitts based on temp/wind/sun. For the coldest days I use regular ski mitts rather than bar mitts.
4) Layers are important. Many days you'll warm up quite a bit as you ride but you don't want to start out freezing. If I'm on the chilly side starting out then I'll be comfortable in 3-5 minutes.
5) I don't wear a helmet for daily transportation. Too hot and sweaty in summer and too cold in winter. If helmets were effective then we'd have a lower rate of TBI than The Netherlands, Denmark, and other countries where nobody wears them but we actually have a slightly higher rate of TBI from bicycle crashes. I have 2 or 3 ski hats that do the trick for me with the warmest a lined Columbia.
6) Be rational. If it's below maybe -10f or really windy or snowing hard then I don't ride. We each have our own comfort zones. I'm not a glutton for punishment so my low temp is gradually moving higher for longer trips.
7) Support Minneapolis Bicycle Coalition
8) Read streets.mn
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https://www.bikeforums.net/winter-cyc...free-last.html
Tried out this winter riding hint out last winter at 0 F and it worked ok. The only issue I had was that as I started to huff and puff climbing one of the hills on the route I was riding the mask would move down and pinch off my nose. Otherwise while on the flats where I was breathing through just my nose it worked good. Didn't try it in any warmer temps as it made my face too warm.
Justin
Tried out this winter riding hint out last winter at 0 F and it worked ok. The only issue I had was that as I started to huff and puff climbing one of the hills on the route I was riding the mask would move down and pinch off my nose. Otherwise while on the flats where I was breathing through just my nose it worked good. Didn't try it in any warmer temps as it made my face too warm.
Justin
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Someone upstream
mentioned how badly salt and other road chemicals can affect bikes, especially aluminum components. I use Boeshield T9 as a protectant and lubricant. To protect components i spray a bit on and then gently wipe it off, which leaves enough residue to protect the metal. As a lubricant (chain, pivot points, springs, etc) i use the liquid. Its very effective.
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I should add that I'm in New York City where the winters are mild compared with Minneapolis. One day, I want to experience that kind of winter. I can scarcely imagine it. Then again, we have a lot of dampness and rain and temperatures hovering above and below the freezing point, which is pretty miserable in its own way. And we have high winds.
Coldest Winters in Twin Cities History: 1873-2014: Minnesota DNR
The winter of 2013-14 from December-February in the Twin Cities was the coldest Meteorological Winter in 35 years.
I know what you mean about the dampness and rain though. If it's humid, it feels a lot colder at 32F than it does at 25F, ironically because of the humidity difference.
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Just ran across this:
Coldest Winters in Twin Cities History: 1873-2014: Minnesota DNR
They called it a "Polar Vortex" where the air that's normally sitting over the north pole gets pushed down onto us somehow.
I know what you mean about the dampness and rain though. If it's humid, it feels a lot colder at 32F than it does at 25F, ironically because of the humidity difference.
Coldest Winters in Twin Cities History: 1873-2014: Minnesota DNR
They called it a "Polar Vortex" where the air that's normally sitting over the north pole gets pushed down onto us somehow.
I know what you mean about the dampness and rain though. If it's humid, it feels a lot colder at 32F than it does at 25F, ironically because of the humidity difference.
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The next thing that has piqued my interest is what bike to ride in the winter. Based off what I've read here I'm less inclined to ride my warm-season drop bar bike, and more inclined to think a cheap old hard-tail mountain bike or all-terrain bike might be the way to go.
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
Is it pretty much an "anything'll do" sort of deal or are there recommendations for capable winter bikes? Flat-bar better suited than drop?
This winter I got bar mitts for Xmas, and they look dorky but really work great.
Last time I rode without studded tires during the winter, I fell on black ice and broke a rib. They plow, but don't salt, the bike paths in Madison. So the paths are generally passable but can be slippery.
One reason for a dedicated winter bike is to keep road salt off of your nice bikes. I coat any exposed steel parts with chainsaw bar oil, which is super sticky. I keep some in a tin can, and apply it with a little brush.
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This is some great information on winter riding. Makes me want to start riding this coming winter.
From what I gathered from this post is I should look for a good used MTB.
Any recommended bikes I should be looking at?
Thank you.
From what I gathered from this post is I should look for a good used MTB.
Any recommended bikes I should be looking at?
Thank you.
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Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
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Unless the roads where I plan to ride aren't ploughed - then, if riding is possible, it is with wide, MTB tyres.
#49
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,502
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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In the US and Canada, 622 is called 700c, not 28".
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.