Race bike or 80s steel frame for 2 day event?
#1
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Race bike or 80s steel frame for 2 day event?
This will be my longest ride to date. Roughly 200 miles. I have an option to ride it in one day or break it up into 2. I normally ride centuries on my race bike but it has no provisions for racks and I will need to carry my own supplies for this one which brings us to an 84 Peugeot ph11.
I restored it for my father but he's given it to me as his riding drop bar bike days are over. I've not really ridden the bike more than a few miles. It's completely original besides tires so at a minimum it will need a wheel/ brake upgrade. The old rigida/helicomatic set up just can't compare to decent alloy clinchers.
Do i try and find a bag set up for the race bike or do I try and set up the Peugeot?
I restored it for my father but he's given it to me as his riding drop bar bike days are over. I've not really ridden the bike more than a few miles. It's completely original besides tires so at a minimum it will need a wheel/ brake upgrade. The old rigida/helicomatic set up just can't compare to decent alloy clinchers.
Do i try and find a bag set up for the race bike or do I try and set up the Peugeot?
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Train on and use your regular bike. I plan on a stop every 25-35 miles for water and food stuffs so examine the route for 5-7 good stops for food and water. If you’re doing it in two days one of these stops will be where you’re sleeping. At distances between 100-200 miles I use a small top tube bag for batteries, phones, and extra snacks, a saddle bag for tools and tubes, and stuff every else in jersey pockets.
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It occurred to me that the OP wanted to approach this like a short tour. If it's a one time thing, then whatever is cheaper. If switching bikes, then due care should be taken to match contact points as best as possible. You can go a long way on bikepacking bags, and that might be the cheapest optiong
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This will be my longest ride to date. Roughly 200 miles. I have an option to ride it in one day or break it up into 2. I normally ride centuries on my race bike but it has no provisions for racks and I will need to carry my own supplies for this one which brings us to an 84 Peugeot ph11.
I restored it for my father but he's given it to me as his riding drop bar bike days are over. I've not really ridden the bike more than a few miles. It's completely original besides tires so at a minimum it will need a wheel/ brake upgrade. The old rigida/helicomatic set up just can't compare to decent alloy clinchers.
Do i try and find a bag set up for the race bike or do I try and set up the Peugeot?
I restored it for my father but he's given it to me as his riding drop bar bike days are over. I've not really ridden the bike more than a few miles. It's completely original besides tires so at a minimum it will need a wheel/ brake upgrade. The old rigida/helicomatic set up just can't compare to decent alloy clinchers.
Do i try and find a bag set up for the race bike or do I try and set up the Peugeot?
Get a big bikepacking saddle bag or use p-clamps to mount a top case accepting rack on your racing bike.
You want to do that because the fit works for you, modern hood shapes are comfortable, and brake/shift levers are nice.
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Assuming the race bike has a carbon seatpost, I would assume that you could put on an aluminum seatpost and one of those beam type racks that clamp onto the seatpost. Can strap a drybag onto one of those racks or a larger sized rack top bag. They are light weight and cheap. A friend of mine did week long credit card tours with a rack top bag to hold his spare set of clothes, rain gear and toiletries.
I personally do not like friction downtube shifter on the rear, the more hills and gear shifts and I like them even less. I have no clue if the older bike has friction shifters or not, it is in that transition range of time so maybe it does. If you do not mind friction shifters, then this is a non-issue.
The race bike has some miles on it, so you presumably are comfortable on that bike and you have set it up to fit well. But would this route have the same type of gearing you need or would this route have some steeper hills?
What is the likelihood that your 80s vintage bike could have a mechanical? You know the bike, is it sufficiently well maintained?
I personally do not like friction downtube shifter on the rear, the more hills and gear shifts and I like them even less. I have no clue if the older bike has friction shifters or not, it is in that transition range of time so maybe it does. If you do not mind friction shifters, then this is a non-issue.
The race bike has some miles on it, so you presumably are comfortable on that bike and you have set it up to fit well. But would this route have the same type of gearing you need or would this route have some steeper hills?
What is the likelihood that your 80s vintage bike could have a mechanical? You know the bike, is it sufficiently well maintained?
#8
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I've toured on a carbon roadie before, just use some bikepacking gear to carry whatever, i didn't carry a lot of stuff but had enough for 9 days on the road, living in hotels.
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Agree with the advice of using your regular race bike. Fit and comfort is king, familiarity with your bike comes second place. 200 miles is a nice 1-day ride at audax pace; I don't really pack much for that, don't really need a bikepacking bag for such a ride. Deciding to ride two days, on the other hand, depends on where you'll be stopping mid-point, e.g. is there a hotel, some supported accommodation, or not? Plan on bringing only essentials depending on how you're handling the overnight stay but I doubt you'll need anything more than a 6-10L bag for this kind of short stay -- unless you need to bring some kind of camping gear like a sleeping bag or bivy or tent.
#10
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Im super keen to make it a 1 day trip. Will be a long day in the saddle but my partner is very much against this. We both ride at the same pace and im confident we could finish in 12 hours or less but he's worried about incidentals and riding unfamiliar roads at night. Soooo 2 days it is. The race bike just makes sense. While the vintage vine ticks all the boxes on paper it's antiquated geometry and parts really puts me at a disadvantage compared to my go to bike. It has a beefy 31.6 alloy seat post so hanging gear from it is no concerne. Not sure if this will become a regular activity so I'm looking to keep costs low. RockBros has a saddle bag in the size I need for around 50 dollars. I know that company isn't known for quality, but I may just use it the once. Any feedback for decent carrying options on the cheap?
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First time I rode over 200 miles, I used a clip on handlebar bag and a backpack. A good hydration pack is nice because they get the bag away from your back somehow. I have an Osprey.
I can't imagine it actually has antiquated geometer that is outside the norm for modern geometry. Maybe it has a bit more rake, but the fact that most bikes nowadays have 45mm rake is a reflection of mindless conformity.
I can't imagine it actually has antiquated geometer that is outside the norm for modern geometry. Maybe it has a bit more rake, but the fact that most bikes nowadays have 45mm rake is a reflection of mindless conformity.
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Assuming the race bike has a carbon seatpost, I would assume that you could put on an aluminum seatpost and one of those beam type racks that clamp onto the seatpost. Can strap a drybag onto one of those racks or a larger sized rack top bag. They are light weight and cheap. A friend of mine did week long credit card tours with a rack top bag to hold his spare set of clothes, rain gear and toiletries.
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What kind of rear dropouts does your bike have?
If they're the ones with a small open triangle in them then you can use a regular rear rack if you use a T-nut and nylon washer to hold the lower leg of the rack to the bike. Blackburn used to make a set for this very purpose.
Cheers
If they're the ones with a small open triangle in them then you can use a regular rear rack if you use a T-nut and nylon washer to hold the lower leg of the rack to the bike. Blackburn used to make a set for this very purpose.
Cheers
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last time I looked someone still sells those. Not sure it really helps the op in his quest to save money