Quick Release skewer
#1
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Quick Release skewer
Hey everyone,
i screwed up...i was transporting my bike this AM and took out my front wheel, placed the quick release screw on my car and drove off. I want to grab a few new ones online just in case this happens again.
My question is, is it a one size fits all quick release or are there different sizes? I have Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slicks and a Shimano 105 groupset if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
i screwed up...i was transporting my bike this AM and took out my front wheel, placed the quick release screw on my car and drove off. I want to grab a few new ones online just in case this happens again.
My question is, is it a one size fits all quick release or are there different sizes? I have Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slicks and a Shimano 105 groupset if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
#2
Banned
Front forks typically 100mm wide . rear 130 or 135..
At Bike shops we have a bin full of skewers, they will sell cheap.
People trash wheels. MTB riders in the woods are good at this.
Shop gets a built replacement wheel, they come with a new skewer.
hence the collection of surplus in a bin..
shop local..
...
At Bike shops we have a bin full of skewers, they will sell cheap.
People trash wheels. MTB riders in the woods are good at this.
Shop gets a built replacement wheel, they come with a new skewer.
hence the collection of surplus in a bin..
shop local..
...
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There is no need to remove the skewer when taking off a wheel, just undo the quick release lever and perhaps back off the nut on the other end if there is not enough clearance to free the wheel. You ARE using the lever properly, right?
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
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LBS will probably have a few in a drawer that they can sell you cheap.
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There is no need to remove the skewer when taking off a wheel, just undo the quick release lever and perhaps back off the nut on the other end if there is not enough clearance to free the wheel. You ARE using the lever properly, right?
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
Leave it on the wheel, it becomes harder to lose.
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I seem to have lost what little mind I had left before this all started.
I seem to have lost what little mind I had left before this all started.
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Thanks Litespud, it was the thru axle. I went back a few days ago and it was lying on the side of the road untouched. Crisis averted...
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With Thru Axles always always always screw it right back in when you remove a wheel. I do it each and every time no matter what I am doing even if a quick flat fix or popping out for a second for some reason. If it becomes muscle memory no more lost skewers or thru-axles in this case.
However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/
I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/
I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
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A +1 for Robert Axle Project. Great product and informative website.
#12
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I don't trust aluminum alloy quick release levers. Use high tensile chrome steel levers & skewers.
https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
#13
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I don't trust aluminum alloy quick release levers. Use high tensile chrome steel levers & skewers.
https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
I agree about the skewers and cams should definitely be steel, but the alloy levers have not let me down. However, since December, there has been a general shortage of Shimano internal cam skewers (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), especially 130mm rears. Shimano also does not label the skewer packaging as to what hub it is for, but by length which is not rear hub width, i.e., 130, 135, various disc brake sizes.) but be the length of the steel rod.
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#14
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I have never had an issue with Shimano Tiagra, 105 or Ultegra internal cam QR skewers. I have vertical dropouts, but even so I see no slippage markings.
I agree about the skewers and cams should definitely be steel, but the alloy levers have not let me down. However, since December, there has been a general shortage of Shimano internal cam skewers (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), especially 130mm rears. Shimano also does not label the skewer packaging as to what hub it is for, but by length which is not rear hub width, i.e., 130, 135, various disc brake sizes.) but be the length of the steel rod.
I agree about the skewers and cams should definitely be steel, but the alloy levers have not let me down. However, since December, there has been a general shortage of Shimano internal cam skewers (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), especially 130mm rears. Shimano also does not label the skewer packaging as to what hub it is for, but by length which is not rear hub width, i.e., 130, 135, various disc brake sizes.) but be the length of the steel rod.
#15
Senior Member
With Thru Axles always always always screw it right back in when you remove a wheel. I do it each and every time no matter what I am doing even if a quick flat fix or popping out for a second for some reason. If it becomes muscle memory no more lost skewers or thru-axles in this case.
However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/
I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/
I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
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Another long time standard, quick release, replaced with a chaotic non-standard. With QR you could take any front mech and swap it with any other, same in the back. a 126 qr would still work with 130, and 135 was only slightly longer but they all were easily swapped. And hub sizes were always the same, 100 for front 126, 130 or 135 in the rear, and you could add or subtract a spacer too.
The wide varieties allow for different in dropout thickness, the varieties of mountain, road and recreational hubs and bikes, and also disc braking systems.
Which I why I fully agree with your statement. I have no opposition to thru axles, but would prefer they be a standard spec. versus proprietary interfaces and threading. I suspect manufacturers are trying to limit liabilities, but my cynical side says it is just another place to put a corporate name on the rolling, spinning billboards of modern bikes.