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Quick Release skewer

Old 07-15-20, 09:54 AM
  #1  
Omni
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Quick Release skewer

Hey everyone,

i screwed up...i was transporting my bike this AM and took out my front wheel, placed the quick release screw on my car and drove off. I want to grab a few new ones online just in case this happens again.

My question is, is it a one size fits all quick release or are there different sizes? I have Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slicks and a Shimano 105 groupset if that makes a difference.

Thanks!
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Old 07-15-20, 10:49 AM
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Front forks typically 100mm wide . rear 130 or 135..

At Bike shops we have a bin full of skewers, they will sell cheap.

People trash wheels. MTB riders in the woods are good at this.

Shop gets a built replacement wheel, they come with a new skewer.

hence the collection of surplus in a bin..





shop local..



...
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Old 07-15-20, 12:02 PM
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There is no need to remove the skewer when taking off a wheel, just undo the quick release lever and perhaps back off the nut on the other end if there is not enough clearance to free the wheel. You ARE using the lever properly, right?
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
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Old 07-15-20, 12:26 PM
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LBS will probably have a few in a drawer that they can sell you cheap.
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Old 07-15-20, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
There is no need to remove the skewer when taking off a wheel, just undo the quick release lever and perhaps back off the nut on the other end if there is not enough clearance to free the wheel. You ARE using the lever properly, right?
How to use a Quick Release
When you get a replacement, try to get the kind with an internal cam mechanism, like shown in the above link and most of this one, not the exposed type like the last photo here: https://www.alsbicycles.com/articles...ctly-pg314.htm
^^^^This^^^^
Leave it on the wheel, it becomes harder to lose.
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Old 07-15-20, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Omni
Hey everyone,

i screwed up...i was transporting my bike this AM and took out my front wheel, placed the quick release screw on my car and drove off.
Why did you remove the quick release skewer at all? That was your first mistake. Don't do that
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Old 07-16-20, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
Why did you remove the quick release skewer at all? That was your first mistake. Don't do that
possibly issue of terminology - maybe the OP is referring to a thru axle, calling it a “quick release screw”
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Old 07-22-20, 08:26 PM
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Thanks Litespud, it was the thru axle. I went back a few days ago and it was lying on the side of the road untouched. Crisis averted...
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Old 07-22-20, 08:58 PM
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You landed on your feet there - go buy a lottery ticket
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Old 07-22-20, 09:53 PM
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With Thru Axles always always always screw it right back in when you remove a wheel. I do it each and every time no matter what I am doing even if a quick flat fix or popping out for a second for some reason. If it becomes muscle memory no more lost skewers or thru-axles in this case.

However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/

I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
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Old 07-23-20, 05:20 AM
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A +1 for Robert Axle Project. Great product and informative website.
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Old 07-23-20, 06:33 AM
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I don't trust aluminum alloy quick release levers. Use high tensile chrome steel levers & skewers.

https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
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Old 07-24-20, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ramzilla
I don't trust aluminum alloy quick release levers. Use high tensile chrome steel levers & skewers.

https://www.performancebike.com/whee...caAt7BEALw_wcB
I have never had an issue with Shimano Tiagra, 105 or Ultegra internal cam QR skewers. I have vertical dropouts, but even so I see no slippage markings.

I agree about the skewers and cams should definitely be steel, but the alloy levers have not let me down. However, since December, there has been a general shortage of Shimano internal cam skewers (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), especially 130mm rears. Shimano also does not label the skewer packaging as to what hub it is for, but by length which is not rear hub width, i.e., 130, 135, various disc brake sizes.) but be the length of the steel rod.
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Old 07-24-20, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill in VA
I have never had an issue with Shimano Tiagra, 105 or Ultegra internal cam QR skewers. I have vertical dropouts, but even so I see no slippage markings.

I agree about the skewers and cams should definitely be steel, but the alloy levers have not let me down. However, since December, there has been a general shortage of Shimano internal cam skewers (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), especially 130mm rears. Shimano also does not label the skewer packaging as to what hub it is for, but by length which is not rear hub width, i.e., 130, 135, various disc brake sizes.) but be the length of the steel rod.
No doubt that high quality Shimano alloy levers are OK. But, I put a budget set of wheels on a hybrid exercise bike a while ago. During a ride up a very steep hill I climbed out of the saddle and began to apply maximum force on the drivetrain. The rear wheel slipped out of position and tire jammed into the stays. So, I figured quick release wasn't tight enough. When I re-set the rear wheel & began to tighten the quick release lever it snapped in two. Leaving a nice puncture wound in the palm of my right hand. With blood dripping everywhere I was lucky to be a short distance from where I left my car. Replaced the low quality alloy QR skewers with some plain old chrome steel ones and, haven't had a problem since.
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Old 07-24-20, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
With Thru Axles always always always screw it right back in when you remove a wheel. I do it each and every time no matter what I am doing even if a quick flat fix or popping out for a second for some reason. If it becomes muscle memory no more lost skewers or thru-axles in this case.

However for Thru-axles there are different thread pitches and different lengths and widths. The front could be 12mm or 15mm (or 20mm) 100mm or 110mm (which is usually boost but not always)
This is a great resource: https://robertaxleproject.com/what-axle-do-i-need/

I might also recommend having some spares so if your bike came with some you might replace them with some nicer ones (maybe a little color or some other cool features or MUSA from Paul or RAP) and then keep the old ones as spares maybe in the glove box or parts bin (and mark them for what bike they are for) or in your tool kit.
Another long time standard, quick release, replaced with a chaotic non-standard. With QR you could take any front mech and swap it with any other, same in the back. a 126 qr would still work with 130, and 135 was only slightly longer but they all were easily swapped. And hub sizes were always the same, 100 for front 126, 130 or 135 in the rear, and you could add or subtract a spacer too.
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Old 07-27-20, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by zacster
Another long time standard, quick release, replaced with a chaotic non-standard. With QR you could take any front mech and swap it with any other, same in the back. a 126 qr would still work with 130, and 135 was only slightly longer but they all were easily swapped. And hub sizes were always the same, 100 for front 126, 130 or 135 in the rear, and you could add or subtract a spacer too.
I did find a full set of Shimano Ultegra skewers with OEM packaging and the full instruction sheet and even handlebar hangtag with warnings. What was interesting was the amount of lengths shown on the packaging. 130 and 135 skewers will interchange. The 130 skewers will look like they are not fully threaded into the nut on a 135mm hub, but they are. This is because Shimano nuts are steel at the base and then have alloy or polymer caps which are NOT load bearing. Looking into the hole shows the skewer rod is fully engaged into the steel 'nut', but does not fill the non-loadbearing plastic hole. Using the 135 skewer in the 130mm hub will have the threaded tip of the skewer rod extend about 3-4mm past the plastic or alloy cap. the only downside I could see there is if you crashed, the tip could drag over pavement and damage the threads, but unthreading the nut should be possible. Keep in mind that if that happens your RD will be toast.

The wide varieties allow for different in dropout thickness, the varieties of mountain, road and recreational hubs and bikes, and also disc braking systems.

Which I why I fully agree with your statement. I have no opposition to thru axles, but would prefer they be a standard spec. versus proprietary interfaces and threading. I suspect manufacturers are trying to limit liabilities, but my cynical side says it is just another place to put a corporate name on the rolling, spinning billboards of modern bikes.
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