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Best way to remove deafening screeching sound from vintage rim brakes?

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Best way to remove deafening screeching sound from vintage rim brakes?

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Old 08-28-20, 08:34 PM
  #26  
crankholio
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Replace them with vintage disc brakes?
My town beater had some awful squeal when I first got it. When I replaced the fork, I had disc mounts, so I put an Avid BB7 on it and tossed the front rim brake. All the squeal was gone.
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Old 09-09-20, 01:21 AM
  #27  
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Hi Fishboat. I think you misunderstood.I literally have vintage set of caliper brakes on my 1989 Bridgestone roadman bike.
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Old 09-09-20, 01:22 AM
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thank for the response guys! really appreciate it. haha .

I forgot to mention that I actually have a Vintage Bike. Its 1989 Bridgstone Roadman Colmo.
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Old 09-09-20, 04:35 AM
  #29  
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I've never experienced brake squeal that couldn't be corrected with proper adjustment and toe-in. Spend some time on YouTube. It's easier than you think.

Last time I installed brake pads I used zip ties on the rear edge of the pad, but I've used various things. You just need to shim the rear edge of the pad so that when you adjust it "flush" on the rim, it's really at an angle once you remove the shim.
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Old 09-09-20, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by branko_76
Do you have steel or aluminum rims?
I have steel rims.
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Old 09-09-20, 10:40 PM
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Again, thank you guys! Really appreciate the suggestions.
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Old 09-13-20, 05:34 PM
  #32  
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New pads and proper adjustment.
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Old 09-13-20, 07:14 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
Replace them with vintage disc brakes?

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Old 09-14-20, 07:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BoraxKid
This sounds backwards. All of the toeing-in advice I ever got was to have the front edge of the pads toed-in a millimeter or two, so that you have more control and it's easier to modulate the braking force. Why would you want the back of the pads to hit first? What would that accomplish?
I was right originally. Here's how to visualize. Pick any point on the rim, say the valve stem. The first portion of the brake pad this point will pass when rolling forward is the leading edge of the pad. The last point it passes as it leaves the caliper is the trailing edge. That's where you toe in. PG
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Old 09-14-20, 07:37 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
Yes. Probably a terminology error on my part. The edge forward most, that makes contact first when toed in properly. My bad...
Think of the pad as a boot. The “toe” is the part of the brake that points in the direction of travel and hits the brake first. “Toe in” means that the toe is closer to the rim.

Originally Posted by BoraxKid
OTOH, I could see why having the rear-most edge of the pad contact the rim first might be preferable: it could clear away any debris and effectively clean-off the rim before the rest of the pad makes contact. Has anyone tried this?
Heel in isn’t a good idea. As the rim passes through the brakes, it pulls the brakes forward. If the toe is set in so that it hits first, the entire pad is pulled down onto the rim. If the heel hits first, the toe of the pad is lifted off the rim and can flutter or vibrate. Squealing brakes are the result of the fluttering brake pad.

A secondary problem is weak brake arms. If the arms aren’t strong enough, the brakes can flutter as well. Shimano made a linear brake in their higher line that was a marvel of engineering with a parallelogram system that move the brake pads straight into the rim rather than in an arc like most brakes do. Unfortunately, The parallelogram was too flexible and the brakes squealed more than any other brake I have ever used. I was relegated to riding a quarter of a mile from everyone in my bike club because of the squeal. On the plus side, they knew exactly where I was almost all the time.
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