gingi310

I recently acquired a tall-guy Niskiki Competition frameset. It came with the original Sugino BB, the original unknown headset and the original Sugino Mighty Competition cranks. The "47-8" code on the cranks means they were made in August 1972, which suggests that the bike is a 1973 model year, however, all of the other 1973s I have seen (including Rabid Koala's identical looking (and sized) bike here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tition-arrives!) have been silver, while the 1974 Nishiki brochure (archived here: https://velobase.com/CatalogScans/nishiki-1974.pdf) shows the same bike in orange, so my working assumption is that it is a 1974.

Details: ST: 64/62.5 c-t/c-c; TT: 62 c-c; Spacing: 100mm/120mm; Cranks: 54/48 171mm; BB: 137" x 24T (not sure what this means!); Frame: Double butted Cromoly.

The frame shows its share of nicks and scraped, but looks to be structurally sound, with no dents or other significant damage. I love the color and the chromed pieces and it's my size. I love the one piece rounded seatstay, the old decals showing it was originally sold at Hans Ohrt bicycles in Beverly Hills and registered with the LAPD and the lovely bend in the front fork.

I have nice old high-flange wheelset and some cool pedals and Brooks pro ready to go for it, and the accumulation of the rest of the parts needed for the build now begins in earnest. I am planning to run it, at least initially, as a....wait for it...fixed gear <gasp> - I've never had one and don't feel like it would be a mortal sin on this bike, especially since so many of the original parts are not still with it (plus the rear spacing is 120mm). If I end up loving the ride, I can always throw some derailleurs on it.

I need the following to complete the build:

• .833 stem (saw a few "SR" stems on eBay from $20-$40);
• bars (haven't figured out what I want to run yet, but I am leaning towards "mustache" bars or the like at the moment);
• seatpost (my calipers show 26.2; need to verify that) - would love to find a fluted one;
• front brake and lever (need a long reach brake since I will be running 700c wheels; will figure out the lever style once I determine the bars);
• chain, cog, seat post binder bolt, cog spacers, grips, etc.

If I'm not completely castigated by the C&V crowd for building a fixie, I'll update this thread as the build comes along. In the meantime, feel free to PM me if you have any parts laying around the would be helpful for the build. Some pics below; here is the full gallery: https://www.jongingrich.com/Other/197...4969271_x5KzLH

Ciufalon

You will definitely end up loving the ride! I think you will be surprised at just how nicely that bike rides. I have a '74 Professional - also pictured in that brochure with the Competition and very close to the same bike. Let me know if I am wrong, but I think you are in for a nice surprise when you get that thing together.

zukahn1 

Reads like a great build the high end Nishiki's from the 70's are just great frames there build guality matched nearly anything made in that time frame built up this bike should ride near perfect. I have owned one and road it till the frame wore out after 4 wheelsets a couple of crashes and about 10,000 miles. You should be able to find most all of the parts fairly easy. The 750 Diacompes that most of these had are even still in production.

https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Long...e++center+pull

VeloBrox

Why did they need such long reach brakes? Dia Compe 750s are often specced to 650b builds.

zukahn1 

Mostely to allow for full fenders which almost no one still rides except for the hardcore C&V guys. Also they give the option of running either 27 or 700c wheels with the same brake.

skoda2

Greetings;
I worked in a Virginia bike shop during the early 70's and Nishiki bikes were every bit the equivalent of English, French, and Italian bikes of the period, and much cheaper . They always had perfectly aligned frames, unlike some of the european brands, and responsive and lively even the bottom of the line Olympic model. You have a great bike there!!
Regards

Velognome 

Wow, I've achieved "hardcore" when really I just wanted to stay clean and dry(er) in the rain and snow.......Hmmmm go figure?

Cool Nishiki by the way...I think a fixed build would be cool. Also the moustache bars, I find them very enjoyable riding fixed. Start building and posting pictures!

gingi310

Thanks guys; I am excited to try it out. I picked up a .833 stem (https://www.ebay.com/itm/320966584620) and some Diam Compe 750s (https://www.ebay.com/itm/140834556402) on eBay today per the advice on this thread. Need to do some more thinking on the bars...

JG

unworthy1

the Pro was a lighter frame, IMHO, and came with light tubular wheels and a twin-plate fork with round blades...I had both and the build quality was just a bit better on the Pro, too, but not by miles. Back then there wasn't a distinction between Tange Champion #1 or #2 but I was of the opinion that the Pro used what was equivalent to #1 and all the rest used lesser tube-sets. The Comp and Semi-Pro seemed like heavier tubing but I didn't ever compare naked frames.
The OEM seat post was probably a Taihei Compe, and on a Pro was probably 26.8.
BB threading *1.37" x 24 tpi is British BSC standard.

gingi310

Thanks for this info. There is an NOS 26.8 Taihei Compe on eBay for $50 with shipping, but I still need to confirm the correct size, as my calipers are only showing 26.2. Also, I would love to find a fluted post for cheap as I like the looks and this won't be an original build / restoration.

That said, do you know what the original seat would have been?

unworthy1

On mine it was some "quilted-top" Japanese saddle, not bad looking but it sure wasn't comfortable! The Pro (mine anyway) had a Japanese copy of a suede Unicanitor...it was only slightly better than the quilt-top.
I would put anything you like on it: comfort tops originality in the saddle dept.!
and I personally would not pay $50 for that seatpost: nothing special at all about it, a $15 Kalloy "LaPrade" style post is every bit as good and they come in practically any size you'll need.

remdude

Any updates on this project? I have the same bike and have converted to fixed gear, running the 700c Araya wheels off my 87 Olympic12. I have the complete running gear and brakes, as well as the 27" wheels.

gingi310

I did finish the bike a couple of months ago and finally took some pictures.




Here is the full reel: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/29829880_Q4pQzc

"Finish" maybe is too strong a word; I want to do something about the pedals and, as you can see, I need a seatpost with adjustable tilt! I also want to upgrade the brake pads and put some kind of clamp-on bottle cage.

I ended up buying a new track wheelset for the bike. A pair of these on sale for half price from Electra: https://store.electrabike.com/eSource..._/_750052.aspx

In a way, it was really stupid to get these shiny new wheels because the bike is supposed to be a townie that I can look up outside without having to carry multiple locks and there are no wheel locks I know of for nutted axles. BUT, I LOVE LOVE LOVE the wheels. Super polished, awesome Campy sheriff star-style high flange hubs but much beefier. The fit and finish is great and I think they are an absolute STEAL at $175 for the set. I am tempted to buy another one just to have around since they are obviously closing out their premium Ticino Cyclotourist line (I wish I would have got a set of the cassette hubs in the same style before they sold out).

I also bought a cheapie new seatpost since I wanted one with flutes and 26.6 is a hard size to find. .833 SR stem was a cheap used eBay find. Bars and brake lever are VO and the brake is a new Dia comp 750. Tires are Pasela 32s. The fork and chainstays still have TONS of room to go bigger. The rest of the stuff was from from the parts bin.

It is hard for me to comment on the ride of the bike because so much of my experience has been getting used to riding fixed. Really baffling to get used to not being able to freewheel but I only forget occasionally now. I have been having a blast riding all over SF with it and settled on 48/18 gearing, which is around 70 inches. I can just barely make it up the biggest hill by my apartment (at the top of Russian Hill!), which I think is the right standard to use. I might go down one cog in the back if I get a lot stronger, which by the way riding fixed makes you do!

More kudos to the late Sheldon whose writings convinced my to go back to the basics and try fixed, which I had otherwise written off as a hipster fad.

This bike puts a smile on my face and makes me psyched to get out and ride, which is what is important, right?

Cheers,

Jon

SF, CA

jhess74

That bike looks fantastic - well done!

I just sold my beater FG to get funds for parts for one of my other bikes, but I can't wait to build up another one. Eff the hipsters, FGs are fun!

dddd

Good job there, glad you're liking it.

I had the same bike in 58cm that I bought for $20. Paint was rough, but the parts were all original. The stock spokes proved brittle.

And I just bought a 25" 1976 Competition in silver, great condition and price, but without wheels. Mine has the 110mm version of your cranks.

DiegoFrogs

I like that a lot! I have a thing for orange bikes, although I've never had one, and since this one didn't come with an integrated derailleur hanger, I think it's well suited to single speed or fixed gear applications.

I've been thinking about building up a spare frameset that I have (not nearly as nice as your frame!) as a single speed with similar handlebars. I should probably stop talking and thinking about it and do it already!

DiegoFrogs

Oh, and if I were in the market today, you can bet I would have bought the same wheelset, and still might buy one of their cranks. At that price, I think they're really good value.

Mike552

Nice Nishiki. I had a somewhat bottom of the line Olympic model and was impressed at how comfortable it was and how well it handled. I had to get rid of it because it was a touch too big for me. Great, great bikes. I've been thinking about building up a classic, higher-end Nishiki fixie, as well. Anyhow, great build!

Saguaro

Great looking Nishiki! Looks like a perfect town bike.

There are locking skewers available. I have Pitlocks on my bike to protect my expensive wheels.


This is the non drive side rear.


This is the drive side rear showing the "Pit" (prior to trimming the excess skewer length).

I think they look kind of cool in an industrial way. Nice brushed stainless steel finish. Very high quality machining. They also have a seatpost protector.

You can get them here: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp

or here: https://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock...r-Sets-s/1.htm

DiegoFrogs

Except that his wheels have tracknuts on a solid axle.

Saguaro

Ahh, thanks for clarifying.