roborovski007

Just got a set of Fulcrum Racing 7 to replace the stock wheelset that came with my road bike. Front wheel fit perfectly but problem comes with the rear wheel. Well the problem lies with the rear wheel unable to fit in to the dropouts, so I brought to the local bike shop to ask for some advice, what he did is force fit it by hammering the chainstay while the rear wheel is place on the dropouts halfway. Finally got it into the dropout. What I want to ask is, does this method do back for the rear wheel or should I just change back to the stock wheel ?

Kimmo

The stock wheel probably has a Shimano hub, which craps all over the Fulcrum one (I'm talking about the rear hub; any front hub is fine).

If it has the same number of holes, you should probably build it into the Fulcrum wheel IMO. You'll almost certainly be able to reuse the Fulcrum's spokes.

If you're not down with wheelbuilding, you can lace it up loosely and take it into the shop for them to tension for you.

But if you don't want to do that, it sounds like the problem here is just that the axle in your new wheel is too long. Very lazy of your LBS to just smash it into the frame...

Either your bike is older and doesn't have a 130mm OLD gap between the rear dropouts, or the new wheel is a 135.

roborovski007

This is my bike https://www.polygonbikes.com/index.ph...eid=366&par=11 , just got it about 2 months ago. Should I continue using at it is or change back to the stock wheelset, will it do any harm in long run ?

Kimmo

If it's a 5mm difference, an aluminium frame may not take kindly to it... but mainly it's a PITA to replace.

I'd either shorten the axle and re-dish the wheel, or lace the Shimano hub into the wheel.

roborovski007

hmm, guess i just have to switch back to the stock wheel and keep the FR7 rear wheel till I change to a new frame which is unlikely to happen any soon. One more thing though after got the FR7 on the rear, chain noise occurs at the RD, is this one of the problem ? hmm..

Kimmo

Either of my proposed solutions is almost certainly a great deal simpler than you take it for, particularly the shorten/re-dish.

Piece of piss.

As for the chain noise, the precise position of the cassette varies from hub to hub, and you often need to do a barrel adjustment on the RD.

Now I look at those wheels, you can't put a normal hub in that rim, but it seems they're a traditional axle which means you can just cut or grind it shorter and use a smaller spacer under the left locknut, rather than order the correct part.



But how did you end up with a 135 axle in one of those...?

Actually, now I think of it again, you could use a normal hub in a 2:1 wheel; just leave half the NDS holes empty.

roborovski007

the stock hub measured 128mm and the fr7 is 130mm, what i see the difference between them is the axle thickness which the fr7 being thicker than the stock wheel thus the fit issue. Guess I have to shorten the axle then XD

Kimmo

You'll also need to re-dish the wheel, since you're moving the wheel to the left.

But how is any recent bike 128mm? That ain't right...

Anyway, 2mm should be no big deal. Your frame must be stiff as hell if you have to struggle to get the wheel in.

LarDasse74

THe spacing on the stock wheels and the frame should be 130mm. Poor QC leads to 128mm spacing.

If it is only 2mm off it really shouldn't be too difficult to flex the stays of the bike to get the wheel in. But if it is really that difficult then I would expect the 128mm hub is also too big - likely the frame is considerably to narrow, which is not good.