Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
04-11-18, 01:29 PM
#5002
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I have cork on the bars and extensions. I feel like a little extra grip is nice at my quite bumpy home track. Might ride no grip on extensions if DLV was smoother.
05-05-18, 10:56 PM
#5003
Senior Member
Some photos of the Araya and Realize 5 spokes form a race I did last weekend. By the way, the amateur level is really rising in Japan. Years ago the top kilo time you'd expect at one of these was 1:07 or so. Last year at the race there was a 1:05 and this year the winner did 1:03, pretty impressive.
05-05-18, 11:36 PM
#5004
Lapped 3x
The Araya is interesting. Very round and blunt looking. The Realize wheel could almost pass for an iO.
05-05-18, 11:46 PM
#5005
Senior Member
05-06-18, 05:53 AM
#5006
Elitist
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I lust after the Araya disc. I think it’s more expensive than a Comete.
Where can I find info on the Realize 5-spoke? Searching is turning up a lot of Alibaba links.
05-06-18, 06:26 AM
#5007
Senior Member
Hey Carleton, actually I don't know where to find info. I think it's made by a shop that normally does carbon bits for race cars, but I don't know how to find them, I've searched too. I know the wheel is relatively reasonably priced ($2-3000 neighborhood), and as I understand it comes in three different models, with the priciest being the Olympic wheel. That's all I got. But I really want one for my birthday. Hint, hint...
05-07-18, 05:55 AM
#5008
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Bottom Bracket, Which One?
Hello all,
Picked up a nice lil 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour to use for my commuting. The bike comes with a Tuvativ Touro crank and 130BCD chain ring and uses a Tuvativ 68 x 108 power spline
BB. I want to swap out to a 144 BCD chainring just to keep my stuff in the same family and most likely a square taper crank.
So the question is if I do this do I have to use a 68x108 BB or can I go 68x109 or 68x 110 wide?
Can't find the 108's so easily and there are many options on the 110 around.
Comments & insight?
Thanks Robert
Picked up a nice lil 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour to use for my commuting. The bike comes with a Tuvativ Touro crank and 130BCD chain ring and uses a Tuvativ 68 x 108 power spline
BB. I want to swap out to a 144 BCD chainring just to keep my stuff in the same family and most likely a square taper crank.
So the question is if I do this do I have to use a 68x108 BB or can I go 68x109 or 68x 110 wide?
Can't find the 108's so easily and there are many options on the 110 around.
Comments & insight?
Thanks Robert
05-07-18, 07:14 AM
#5009
aka mattio
It depends on the crank, since a crank and a BB go together.
But, figure that the difference between a hard-to-find 108mm spindle and an easy-to-find 110mm spindle is 1mm on each side. And that means that your commuter's chainline is "off" by 1mm. Which is perfectly fine and well within what your chain can tolerate.
But, figure that the difference between a hard-to-find 108mm spindle and an easy-to-find 110mm spindle is 1mm on each side. And that means that your commuter's chainline is "off" by 1mm. Which is perfectly fine and well within what your chain can tolerate.
05-07-18, 11:06 AM
#5011
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It might be better to leave the 130 BCD crankset and chainring in that bike. Once you settle on a gear ratio for your terrain, it’s unlikely that you’ll change it.
Also, having all 144 BCD and using the chainrings on both bikes might make a situation where the chainring you need for a training or race day is on your other bike as opposed to being in your track sack. Now you gotta stop and take it off before leaving then put it back on when you return.
Further, if you are locking the bike up outside of stores, pubs, restaurants, etc... the nicer the components, the more you worry and your replacement costs go up.
But, if you want it nice, no problem with that either. I rode a race-spec Pista Concept complete with Mavic Ellipse, Sugino 75 cranks, Zen chainring, Thomson stem and seatpost, B123 bars, Arione saddle, etc...through Baltimore and DC back in the day without issues...but I was constantly paranoid about it being knicked or scavanged.
Also, having all 144 BCD and using the chainrings on both bikes might make a situation where the chainring you need for a training or race day is on your other bike as opposed to being in your track sack. Now you gotta stop and take it off before leaving then put it back on when you return.
Further, if you are locking the bike up outside of stores, pubs, restaurants, etc... the nicer the components, the more you worry and your replacement costs go up.
But, if you want it nice, no problem with that either. I rode a race-spec Pista Concept complete with Mavic Ellipse, Sugino 75 cranks, Zen chainring, Thomson stem and seatpost, B123 bars, Arione saddle, etc...through Baltimore and DC back in the day without issues...but I was constantly paranoid about it being knicked or scavanged.
05-18-18, 01:13 PM
#5012
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do Dura Ace chain ring nuts/bolts (the knurled ones) work with sram omnium cranks? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but using 2 tools to remove chain rings is a PIA. If not, what glue do you guys use to secure the bolts into the crank?
05-18-18, 03:06 PM
#5013
Lapped 3x
Tubular glue works well. So do silicone caulks/glue. You want something that cures with some give, not something hard like Crazy Glue (cyanoacrylate glues), because there will be some gap and the glue is too brittle for that. Epoxy works too, but you will never get them out if you strip one.
Last edited by taras0000; 05-19-18 at 12:19 PM.
05-19-18, 07:20 AM
#5014
Senior Member
yep, they'll work. Sugino also makes some that are a little cheaper than the DA ones. Otherwise, as Taras suggested.
05-22-18, 09:21 PM
#5016
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To anyone that uses a wahoo cadence sensor and wahoo Elemnt bike computer, has anyone had weird readings when doing higher cadences? I was doing cadence drills on the rollers, and i was hitting 120-145 rpms on the cadence intervals when i was able to glance at the computer. However, when I uploaded the workout to trainingpeaks it reads that my peak cadence was 110rpms for 5 seconds, but my speed sensor was accurate and was stating peaks of 35-45mph so I know its the cadence sensor not being accurate. Anyone else have this problem? Not a big deal but slightly annoying when i was analyzing the workout afterwards.
05-22-18, 11:39 PM
#5017
Elitist
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Whatever is inside of it (e.g. a ball bearing) simply gets slung to the side with the centripetal force of the really high cadences.
Get an ANT+ magnet type sensor. Bontrager sells them.
On a related note, I hooked up my Wahoo Ticker (HR monitor) to the iPhone app today and place it in my two hands to test and it worked...then I set the HR strap on the table as I cleaned my bike and apparently it registered a ghost's HR between 134 and 146 BPM! It did this for several minutes! Not sure if I can trust this thing, hahaha
05-23-18, 04:52 PM
#5018
Senior Member
To anyone that uses a wahoo cadence sensor and wahoo Elemnt bike computer, has anyone had weird readings when doing higher cadences? I was doing cadence drills on the rollers, and i was hitting 120-145 rpms on the cadence intervals when i was able to glance at the computer. However, when I uploaded the workout to trainingpeaks it reads that my peak cadence was 110rpms for 5 seconds, but my speed sensor was accurate and was stating peaks of 35-45mph so I know its the cadence sensor not being accurate. Anyone else have this problem? Not a big deal but slightly annoying when i was analyzing the workout afterwards.
05-23-18, 05:47 PM
#5019
Senior Member
Old school basic cycle computer + Carleton's track calculator app FTW.
05-23-18, 09:42 PM
#5020
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05-24-18, 03:14 AM
#5021
Senior Member
I just have a Cateye Micro Wireless, and the only things I track are speed and mostly max speed. Using Carleton's app I plug in my gearing and get maximum speed/cadence for my efforts. That and my time for each effort are really all I need. With this I can see improvements over efforts in terms of speed/cadence and plan gear changes accordingly. Of course I'm a sprinter, so things are dumb with me and my needs are few in regards to data. Plus I hate fiddling with gadgets.
05-24-18, 10:41 PM
#5022
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This is a question based on pure laziness and being cheap...Does anyone NOT wrap their sprint bars? I wear full fingered baseball gloves that have plenty of grip. I am also the most anal bar wrapper of all time and i just don’t want that stress in my life.
05-25-18, 03:43 AM
#5023
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One note, these bars are plugged by design. Most are not. You are not required to use grip tape, but you are required to have your bars plugged. This is because if you wreck, unplugged bars will take a deep "core sample" of flesh and muscle from you or someone else.
I haven't heard of this happening on the track, but I did hear a gruesome tale from my BMX freestyle days.
I can't get the photo to load from my album (grrrrrr...). Follow this link: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cyc...l#post20358511
Last edited by carleton; 05-25-18 at 03:59 AM.
05-26-18, 05:53 AM
#5024
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Pro tip: tennis/badminton grip tape is considerably cheaper than bike bar tape...and does EXACTLY the same job.
Before cycling I was a national-level badminton player. We buy this stuff by the reel. A 30pack for $39...will last you YEARS.
https://www.midwestsports.com/yonex-...xoCNb8QAvD_BwE
Before cycling I was a national-level badminton player. We buy this stuff by the reel. A 30pack for $39...will last you YEARS.
https://www.midwestsports.com/yonex-...xoCNb8QAvD_BwE
05-26-18, 09:36 AM
#5025
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I use the BMX style slip on grips. Easy to apply, fills the hole in the bar ends, and works even if I forget my gloves (although that has never happened, Murphy's law rules, and so I figured making it fail safe is a plus).