1Up Rack Hitch Pin Won't Engage With Lock
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1Up Rack Hitch Pin Won't Engage With Lock
All,
I can't get my 1Up hitch pin to engage with the inside of the lock mechanism. The pic below shows as far as it will go in before bottoming out on the internal female threads.
Of course the male screw thread is rectangular as well as the portion you can see right where it inters the lock. I think the non-threaded rectangular portion of the screw is supposed to go all the way in past the lip in the female side so that it can then be turned to engage the internal threads.
Seems that the pin bottoms out on the internal thread before the rectangular piece clears the opening in the lock.
The wheel locks have the same problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks much.
Glenn
I can't get my 1Up hitch pin to engage with the inside of the lock mechanism. The pic below shows as far as it will go in before bottoming out on the internal female threads.
Of course the male screw thread is rectangular as well as the portion you can see right where it inters the lock. I think the non-threaded rectangular portion of the screw is supposed to go all the way in past the lip in the female side so that it can then be turned to engage the internal threads.
Seems that the pin bottoms out on the internal thread before the rectangular piece clears the opening in the lock.
The wheel locks have the same problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks much.
Glenn
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#3
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Glenn
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Seems strange that they all have the same problem. Stupid question, and please don't be mad at me for suggesting it, but have you made sure the key was turned counterclockwise all the way before inserting the male end? I know, it's like asking if the computer is actually on when you call Apple tech support, but I was just trying to think of what could cause all of them to have the same problem. Do they physically work and just not look right, or do they not work? IIRC, they do draw in a little as you are tightening the threads with the key. Also, I'm not totally sure they go all the way in when engaged. My 1up locks are at home, so I can see what mine look like when engaged later tonight.
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Seems strange that they all have the same problem. Stupid question, and please don't be mad at me for suggesting it, but have you made sure the key was turned counterclockwise all the way before inserting the male end? I know, it's like asking if the computer is actually on when you call Apple tech support, but I was just trying to think of what could cause all of them to have the same problem. Do they physically work and just not look right, or do they not work? IIRC, they do draw in a little as you are tightening the threads with the key. Also, I'm not totally sure they go all the way in when engaged. My 1up locks are at home, so I can see what mine look like when engaged later tonight.
Either that wasn't in the instructions or I missed it (more likely). I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. Is it safe to use the rack with just the Security Hitch Bolt screwed in with the Security wrench? It seems so, but then again, I'm not sure. Again, many thanks.
Glenn
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Glad it worked out. Free fixes are the best kind. On your security bolt/wrench question, I assume you mean the hex key/Allen wrench that fits into the end of the hitch and tightens the rack to the hitch? If so, yes, it's totally safe. Everything beyond that is just insurance. Just make sure it's tight. The keyed hitch lock isn't for attaching the hitch, it's just to keep someone from stealing it. Enjoy!
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Glad it worked out. Free fixes are the best kind. On your security bolt/wrench question, I assume you mean the hex key/Allen wrench that fits into the end of the hitch and tightens the rack to the hitch? If so, yes, it's totally safe. Everything beyond that is just insurance. Just make sure it's tight. The keyed hitch lock isn't for attaching the hitch, it's just to keep someone from stealing it. Enjoy!
Glenn
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I'd make sure to attached the safety strap to the hitch also. It will keep the rack from detaching from the hitch and skidding down the road with your bike should the tightening mechanism ever loosen up.
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If the OP has the lock that goes through the hitch pin holes, then it will take care of that.
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Thanks.
Glenn
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Then you won't need the strap. Mine is has the 1 ¼" w/ 2" adapter where the locking hitch pin isn't an option. It came with a velcro strap that would keep the rack from sliding out if it came loose. I kind of wish my was the 2" and if I used it more than I do I'd probably upgrade it but since it doesn't get a ton of use I'm just keeping the 1 ¼" + adapter.
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Then you won't need the strap. Mine is has the 1 ¼" w/ 2" adapter where the locking hitch pin isn't an option. It came with a velcro strap that would keep the rack from sliding out if it came loose. I kind of wish my was the 2" and if I used it more than I do I'd probably upgrade it but since it doesn't get a ton of use I'm just keeping the 1 ¼" + adapter.
Glenn
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Then you won't need the strap. Mine is has the 1 ¼" w/ 2" adapter where the locking hitch pin isn't an option. It came with a velcro strap that would keep the rack from sliding out if it came loose. I kind of wish my was the 2" and if I used it more than I do I'd probably upgrade it but since it doesn't get a ton of use I'm just keeping the 1 ¼" + adapter.
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I had the 1-1/4” version and upgraded it to 2” by buying the 2” hitch bar with side plates: https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/
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All,
I can't get my 1Up hitch pin to engage with the inside of the lock mechanism. The pic below shows as far as it will go in before bottoming out on the internal female threads.
Of course the male screw thread is rectangular as well as the portion you can see right where it inters the lock. I think the non-threaded rectangular portion of the screw is supposed to go all the way in past the lip in the female side so that it can then be turned to engage the internal threads.
Seems that the pin bottoms out on the internal thread before the rectangular piece clears the opening in the lock.
The wheel locks have the same problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks much.
Glenn
I can't get my 1Up hitch pin to engage with the inside of the lock mechanism. The pic below shows as far as it will go in before bottoming out on the internal female threads.
Of course the male screw thread is rectangular as well as the portion you can see right where it inters the lock. I think the non-threaded rectangular portion of the screw is supposed to go all the way in past the lip in the female side so that it can then be turned to engage the internal threads.
Seems that the pin bottoms out on the internal thread before the rectangular piece clears the opening in the lock.
The wheel locks have the same problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks much.
Glenn
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That is one of many reasons they are awesome, but sorry that in a way you had to 'downgrade'.
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Seriously though, IME if something doesn't work when it's brand new, it usually either operator error or a poorly designed product. OP's situation seems to be a product of both, as it is not common at all to use a key to screw something into place. If the 1UP rack were designed better, its operation would have been intuitive for OP and there would have been nothing to post about.