Hoping someone could help guess size of this Peugeot OU 8
#1
L-man
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Hoping someone could help guess size of this Peugeot OU 8
Can any Pug lovers guess by neck length , 27" front tire,
what size frame this is? eBay purchased, being shipped now,....owner said it was a 58cm.
Seems larger than that.
Very appreciative of any guesses, thanxs
what size frame this is? eBay purchased, being shipped now,....owner said it was a 58cm.
Seems larger than that.
Very appreciative of any guesses, thanxs
Last edited by Lman; 11-11-21 at 12:06 PM.
#2
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Looks like a 25" frame.
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This is about as large as it gets for a vintage Peugeot.
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I love old Peugeots and old French bikes. They are a bit of a pain to work on but that is part of their charm. The UO 8 is a fine platform to build a great bike if you are willing to do some work on it.
This bike looks to be in exceptional shape. Do you have a picture of the drive side showing the crank and derailleurs?
This bike looks to be in exceptional shape. Do you have a picture of the drive side showing the crank and derailleurs?
#10
L-man
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I love old Peugeots and old French bikes. They are a bit of a pain to work on but that is part of their charm. The UO 8 is a fine platform to build a great bike if you are willing to do some work on it.
This bike looks to be in exceptional shape. Do you have a picture of the drive side showing the crank and derailleurs?
This bike looks to be in exceptional shape. Do you have a picture of the drive side showing the crank and derailleurs?
my new project, to keep me distracted from work/ children
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The pic is blurry but it looks as if the derailleurs have been upgraded to suntour which will work better than the simplex derailleurs that originally came on the bike. The bike still has simplex/delrin downtube shifters. You'll improve the shifting by getting rid of those. The TA water bottle cage on the seat tube is cool. You can easily sell if it you like (it has a value) or keep it. The best upgrade for this bike will be alloy wheels; second best will be getting rid of the steel cottered crank for an alloy cotterless one. Have fun.
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#13
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The pic is blurry but it looks as if the derailleurs have been upgraded to suntour which will work better than the simplex derailleurs that originally came on the bike. The bike still has simplex/delrin downtube shifters. You'll improve the shifting by getting rid of those. The TA water bottle cage on the seat tube is cool. You can easily sell if it you like (it has a value) or keep it. The best upgrade for this bike will be alloy wheels; second best will be getting rid of the steel cottered crank for an alloy cotterless one. Have fun.
Again thank you for your insight.
Last edited by Lman; 11-11-21 at 11:57 AM.
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Standover Height
Lman Greetings... Your height has NOTHING to do with whether a bike is the right size for you.
It's like saying I wear size 12 shoes, I need a large car!
It's not your fault... That kind of misnformation probably goes way back in time to when bike manufactures only offered 1 or 2 sizes of frames. It gets perpetuated on eBay, Craigslist and other venues by many inexperienced sellers advertising bikes for sale.
The number one most important dimension in initially determining frame fit is the STAND OVER height. That's a measurement from the top of the top tube to the ground.
It's a function of your inseam length. You should be able to straddle the bike with at least 1"- 2" of space between your private area and the top tube.
Reason being, if you have to quickly dismount you will be less like to be writhing on the ground in exquisite pain due to unexpected contact!
While not normally considered a good practice, a frame that's on the small side is better than one that's too big. The rest of the fit details like seat height and position, bar height and stem length can all be worked out by adjustments or changing components.
This is a guide that Schwinn put out during the bike boom that's a rough guide to fit. Notice, I crossed out the stuff about handle bar height as it's not relevant at this point.
In reference to height, I was 5' 11" in my early 20's. I'm now 5' 9" (gravity sucks)... I have a long torso with short legs for my height. My inseam is 28 1/2". I can ride 54cm (21 1/2") to 57cm (22 1/2") frames but 55cm - 56cm is the sweet spot.
verktyg
It's like saying I wear size 12 shoes, I need a large car!
It's not your fault... That kind of misnformation probably goes way back in time to when bike manufactures only offered 1 or 2 sizes of frames. It gets perpetuated on eBay, Craigslist and other venues by many inexperienced sellers advertising bikes for sale.
The number one most important dimension in initially determining frame fit is the STAND OVER height. That's a measurement from the top of the top tube to the ground.
It's a function of your inseam length. You should be able to straddle the bike with at least 1"- 2" of space between your private area and the top tube.
Reason being, if you have to quickly dismount you will be less like to be writhing on the ground in exquisite pain due to unexpected contact!
While not normally considered a good practice, a frame that's on the small side is better than one that's too big. The rest of the fit details like seat height and position, bar height and stem length can all be worked out by adjustments or changing components.
This is a guide that Schwinn put out during the bike boom that's a rough guide to fit. Notice, I crossed out the stuff about handle bar height as it's not relevant at this point.
In reference to height, I was 5' 11" in my early 20's. I'm now 5' 9" (gravity sucks)... I have a long torso with short legs for my height. My inseam is 28 1/2". I can ride 54cm (21 1/2") to 57cm (22 1/2") frames but 55cm - 56cm is the sweet spot.
verktyg
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Last edited by verktyg; 11-12-21 at 02:11 AM.