Utility bike based on C&V
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Utility bike based on C&V
With the lockdown, my retirement, and reduced interest in driving a car, I want to make a utility bike for shopping and errands. Best of such I ever owned owned have been my pre-Raleigh Phillips or Hercules that I had in my early teens. I have a mens Raleigh Sports that my wife rode in college, but it is as rusty as a bike can be and still roll. I'm pretty sure that to de-rust the frame I need a biiiig tub that I don't see renting. So I can buy a 21" frame/fork and maybe a set of OEM fenders, and transfer all my Raleigh sports parts over, overhauling as I go. The old (1974? gotta check the codes!) Raleigh's SA AW turns and clicks nicely, so ... it's worth a try.
So at the moment I have three questions:
1. Is there a significant quality difference between vintage Raleigh roadster frames (26") and the other Raleigh brands, such as Triumph, Phillips, Robin Hood, Dunelt, and others? I know the Sports was a down-ticket model compared to the Superbe, but are Robin Hoods (just to name an example) a tick down?
2. What modern wired tire is the best choice to use with the original rims? I can't read the rim markings but the dried tires are Cheng Shin 37-580. 580 mm BSD?
3. As a modern working bike it would need good brake tracks, so an upgrade to Al rims is called for. The brake shoes cannot slide down any farther, but can be raised. I could replace the 580 BSD rims with 584 bsd, which are 650b. But any 650b rims that come in 40 spokes?
So at the moment I have three questions:
1. Is there a significant quality difference between vintage Raleigh roadster frames (26") and the other Raleigh brands, such as Triumph, Phillips, Robin Hood, Dunelt, and others? I know the Sports was a down-ticket model compared to the Superbe, but are Robin Hoods (just to name an example) a tick down?
2. What modern wired tire is the best choice to use with the original rims? I can't read the rim markings but the dried tires are Cheng Shin 37-580. 580 mm BSD?
3. As a modern working bike it would need good brake tracks, so an upgrade to Al rims is called for. The brake shoes cannot slide down any farther, but can be raised. I could replace the 580 BSD rims with 584 bsd, which are 650b. But any 650b rims that come in 40 spokes?
#2
WGB
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 2,917
Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1800 Post(s)
Liked 2,334 Times
in
1,378 Posts
Road Fan Either I'm confused or you've typed 580 meaning 590mm. I have three Raleigh Sports and all have 590mm rims. Never seen a 580 tire (tyre?) on a Sports. Agree with 584 as an alternative
Per Sheldon Brown website
ISO 590 mm - 650A, English 26 x 1 3/8 E.A.3
This size was the norm for most English 3-speed bikes, and used to be very, very common. It was also used on some inexpensive 10-speed bikes in the '70s.The 590 mm size has fallen out of fashion since the advent of the mountain bike in the late 1970s, but there are still lots of bikes on the road that use it. It remains fairly popular in Japan.
Per Sheldon Brown website
ISO 590 mm - 650A, English 26 x 1 3/8 E.A.3
This size was the norm for most English 3-speed bikes, and used to be very, very common. It was also used on some inexpensive 10-speed bikes in the '70s.The 590 mm size has fallen out of fashion since the advent of the mountain bike in the late 1970s, but there are still lots of bikes on the road that use it. It remains fairly popular in Japan.
#3
WGB
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 2,917
Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1800 Post(s)
Liked 2,334 Times
in
1,378 Posts
Sorry - also meant to say that many companies had Raleigh make 3 speeds for them. In Canada I've seen Eatons (a former department store) badged Sports with "Made in England" stickers. The difference that I've seen seemed to be in having less chrome and things like lacking pump pegs on the department store models.
Perhaps someone else can weigh in on quality and perhaps some of the companies purchased a licence from Raleigh and either built or contracted out their own production?
Perhaps someone else can weigh in on quality and perhaps some of the companies purchased a licence from Raleigh and either built or contracted out their own production?
Last edited by WGB; 04-03-20 at 09:21 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Alternatively, old MTBs make great platforms for utility bikes. They have clearance for fat tires and fenders, they tend to be very reasonably priced, and make terrific grocery getters/townies. They're not as retro cool as a British 3 speed so there's that.
#5
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1955 Post(s)
Liked 3,661 Times
in
1,679 Posts
Cr18 rims come in 590 and 40 hole.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Sorry, an MTB-based utility bike is not an option for me. Way outside my tastes, and I don't believe I need tires wider than 35 or 38 mm.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Road Fan Either I'm confused or you've typed 580 meaning 590mm. I have three Raleigh Sports and all have 590mm rims. Never seen a 580 tire (tyre?) on a Sports. Agree with 584 as an alternative
Per Sheldon Brown website
ISO 590 mm - 650A, English 26 x 1 3/8 E.A.3
This size was the norm for most English 3-speed bikes, and used to be very, very common. It was also used on some inexpensive 10-speed bikes in the '70s.The 590 mm size has fallen out of fashion since the advent of the mountain bike in the late 1970s, but there are still lots of bikes on the road that use it. It remains fairly popular in Japan.
Per Sheldon Brown website
ISO 590 mm - 650A, English 26 x 1 3/8 E.A.3
This size was the norm for most English 3-speed bikes, and used to be very, very common. It was also used on some inexpensive 10-speed bikes in the '70s.The 590 mm size has fallen out of fashion since the advent of the mountain bike in the late 1970s, but there are still lots of bikes on the road that use it. It remains fairly popular in Japan.
This tells me if I am going to replace the rims with aluminum, I can't go smaller than 590 because of brake reach, so 584 will either require longer calipers or surgery to open the slots on the original calipers. 52Telecaster says in his reply that the Sun-Ringle line has a 590 BSD rim in 40 holes and presumably in a 32, and I see nothing wrong with that rim, I made some touring wheels based on it and they are still just fine. So I should be able to use a pair of those.
Now to search for EA-3 tires!
Last edited by Road Fan; 04-03-20 at 10:11 AM.
#8
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Rust removal
You have the bike, and rust removal isn't bad with some tricks. You don't really need a tub or a lot of solution, just use a 'waterbed' method. You'll need to clean as best as you can, because Evaporust doesn't work underneath grease.
I asked nicely at the LBS for an empty bike box. I'm not sure if that's still an option at the moment but if you have scrap lumber you can still do it.
Block out the frame and fork with lumber Take a heavy poly drop cloth or other waterproof barrier of choice, and line the box/lumber frame. Put the bike frame in the lined box and start adding balled up paper to create a rough mold for the bike. When you're done, add a thinner poly drop cloth over the mold, gently press it into place to avoid poking through it, and nestle the frame into its place. Pour in a gallon of Evaporust and let it do its job. Check the frame after 24 hours for progress, or longer.
Remove the un-rusted frame and wipe or rinse off the Evaporust and black build up. Treat exposed steel with etching primer or rust stabilizer or Ospho, depending on how much work you want to put in.
You can (and should) recover as much of the evaporust as possible, because it's expensive and reusable until it's black.
That way for $40, you get to reuse that frame. Everything but the steel protection is reusable too.
I asked nicely at the LBS for an empty bike box. I'm not sure if that's still an option at the moment but if you have scrap lumber you can still do it.
Block out the frame and fork with lumber Take a heavy poly drop cloth or other waterproof barrier of choice, and line the box/lumber frame. Put the bike frame in the lined box and start adding balled up paper to create a rough mold for the bike. When you're done, add a thinner poly drop cloth over the mold, gently press it into place to avoid poking through it, and nestle the frame into its place. Pour in a gallon of Evaporust and let it do its job. Check the frame after 24 hours for progress, or longer.
Remove the un-rusted frame and wipe or rinse off the Evaporust and black build up. Treat exposed steel with etching primer or rust stabilizer or Ospho, depending on how much work you want to put in.
You can (and should) recover as much of the evaporust as possible, because it's expensive and reusable until it's black.
That way for $40, you get to reuse that frame. Everything but the steel protection is reusable too.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
You have the bike, and rust removal isn't bad with some tricks. You don't really need a tub or a lot of solution, just use a 'waterbed' method. You'll need to clean as best as you can, because Evaporust doesn't work underneath grease.
I asked nicely at the LBS for an empty bike box. I'm not sure if that's still an option at the moment but if you have scrap lumber you can still do it.
Block out the frame and fork with lumber Take a heavy poly drop cloth or other waterproof barrier of choice, and line the box/lumber frame. Put the bike frame in the lined box and start adding balled up paper to create a rough mold for the bike. When you're done, add a thinner poly drop cloth over the mold, gently press it into place to avoid poking through it, and nestle the frame into its place. Pour in a gallon of Evaporust and let it do its job. Check the frame after 24 hours for progress, or longer.
Remove the un-rusted frame and wipe or rinse off the Evaporust and black build up. Treat exposed steel with etching primer or rust stabilizer or Ospho, depending on how much work you want to put in.
You can (and should) recover as much of the evaporust as possible, because it's expensive and reusable until it's black.
That way for $40, you get to reuse that frame. Everything but the steel protection is reusable too.
I asked nicely at the LBS for an empty bike box. I'm not sure if that's still an option at the moment but if you have scrap lumber you can still do it.
Block out the frame and fork with lumber Take a heavy poly drop cloth or other waterproof barrier of choice, and line the box/lumber frame. Put the bike frame in the lined box and start adding balled up paper to create a rough mold for the bike. When you're done, add a thinner poly drop cloth over the mold, gently press it into place to avoid poking through it, and nestle the frame into its place. Pour in a gallon of Evaporust and let it do its job. Check the frame after 24 hours for progress, or longer.
Remove the un-rusted frame and wipe or rinse off the Evaporust and black build up. Treat exposed steel with etching primer or rust stabilizer or Ospho, depending on how much work you want to put in.
You can (and should) recover as much of the evaporust as possible, because it's expensive and reusable until it's black.
That way for $40, you get to reuse that frame. Everything but the steel protection is reusable too.
#10
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
You can read about it here. There are similar products available with their own idiosyncrasies.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,159
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3811 Post(s)
Liked 6,707 Times
in
2,613 Posts
Likes For nlerner:
#12
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,847
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,055 Times
in
1,255 Posts
Is there a significant quality difference between vintage Raleigh roadster frames (26") and the other Raleigh brands, such as Triumph, Phillips, Robin Hood, Dunelt, and others? I know the Sports was a down-ticket model compared to the Superbe, but are Robin Hoods (just to name an example) a tick down?
Last edited by clubman; 04-03-20 at 02:15 PM.
Likes For clubman:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,706
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1951 Post(s)
Liked 2,012 Times
in
1,111 Posts
No pictures yet? Oh. You don't have the bike yet!
Ann Arbor CL https://annarbor.craigslist.org/bid/...088532141.html
I had a Triumph and it was a nice rider.
Ann Arbor CL https://annarbor.craigslist.org/bid/...088532141.html
I had a Triumph and it was a nice rider.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
No pictures yet? Oh. You don't have the bike yet!
Ann Arbor CL https://annarbor.craigslist.org/bid/...088532141.html
I had a Triumph and it was a nice rider.
Ann Arbor CL https://annarbor.craigslist.org/bid/...088532141.html
I had a Triumph and it was a nice rider.
#15
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254559810359
For a new B72?
For a new B72?