Head badge rivets
#1
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Head badge rivets
How do I remove the rivets from a classic Raleigh head badge?
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Try removing the fork and getting some sort of stick or lever that won't damage the frame and try to lever any protruding rivet since they're sometimes not peened, then grab with some pliers from the front. Otherwise, carefully drill off the rivet head.
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Thanks for your advice. Do you know the diameter of the drill needed or the rivet?
#5
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They're not really rivets! [Okay, well, some are]
This comes up periodically, but head badges are traditionally attached with something called a "drive screw", which you can think of as a one-sided rivet, if it helps. I remember growing up working in Grandpa's wood shop, and he used fluted nails for the same reason: it helps hold two layers together (better than just pounding it together with a straight or tapered one), while also being very quick to install.
They can be popped out from the back if the heads are solid, otherwise (as I believe is actually the case with some Raleighs), use a slightly-larger-than-the-hole-in-the-rivet twist drill bit, and go through fast in one operation, or you can wind up grabbing and spinning the rivet, rather than drilling it.
This comes up periodically, but head badges are traditionally attached with something called a "drive screw", which you can think of as a one-sided rivet, if it helps. I remember growing up working in Grandpa's wood shop, and he used fluted nails for the same reason: it helps hold two layers together (better than just pounding it together with a straight or tapered one), while also being very quick to install.
They can be popped out from the back if the heads are solid, otherwise (as I believe is actually the case with some Raleighs), use a slightly-larger-than-the-hole-in-the-rivet twist drill bit, and go through fast in one operation, or you can wind up grabbing and spinning the rivet, rather than drilling it.
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I worked from a bare frame, with holes, but no badge or rivets to remove. I found this badge on Ebay, and the seller included these round head rivets. I like these better than the hollow ring pop rivets I've seen on some Raleighs. Not sure what is correct. This picture is over a year old. The rivets have weathered a little to match the patina on the old badge. My rivets are like the ones pictured above. I used needle nose pliers to hold them, and tapped them in with a hammer. Be sure they aren't too long, or it may hit the steerer tube.
Edit: I said "rivet" I meant to say "drive screws". 🙄
Edit: I said "rivet" I meant to say "drive screws". 🙄
Last edited by Slightspeed; 02-01-19 at 03:11 PM.
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Forum member CoRide59 had two sizes of drive screws on hand. He was generous enough to provide me with a few for my Bottecchia. PM him and inquire.
#9
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I tried to use drive screws when I redid my Raleigh, and was careful with the bit size, but I felt like the head tube was starting to dent and the screws weren’t going in. Are you supposed to lube them?
I wound up just adhering the badge with clear silicone, and using brass escutcheon tacks bent over inside the head tube as dummy rivets.
I wound up just adhering the badge with clear silicone, and using brass escutcheon tacks bent over inside the head tube as dummy rivets.
#10
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No, they don't need to be lubed, but they do need to be a specific size for a given hole. The packaging will tell you how big the hole needs to be for a given screw.
They are gently tapered so the "right size" is about the middle of the screw.
They are gently tapered so the "right size" is about the middle of the screw.
#11
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Yeah, I assumed the drill size was important, and I followed the spec that was provided by McMaster Carr, where I bought the drive screws. Anyway it worked out fine the way I did it.
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I was also checking this. Thanks for the info. Is there someone on the Forum that repairs old badges?
#13
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I bought a 100 pack of brass 2-56 1/8” screws from McMaster Carr. If anyone needs to attach a headbadge via this method, feel free to send overs PM.
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