Ultegra R8000 up grade question
#1
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Ultegra R8000 up grade question
I'm considering upgrading the Ultegra R8000 groupset on my Canyon CF SL 8.0 to Di2. Trying to get a handle on what parts I'll need. The lan is to do a simple, battery in the seat tube installation. So far, I figure I'll need the following,
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
Last edited by bmcer; 09-15-20 at 11:30 AM.
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I'm considering upgrading the Ultegra R8000 groupset on my Canyon CF SL 8.0 to Di2. Trying to get a handle on what parts I'll need. The lan is to do a simple, battery in the seat tube installation. So far, I figure I'll need the following,
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
#3
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Thanks for the response. Not listing the derailleurs was an over-sight on my part. It's the variety of installations with different shifter buttons and/or a wireless piece (?) that is confusing me. I've done a Campagnolo EPS Record installation and it was pretty straight forward. A wire from each shfter to an interface unit, a wire from that unit to the battery, and then two wires from that, one to the FD and one to the RD. Easy-peasy.
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This is the first result of a Google search for "Ultegra Di2 upgrade kit":
https://glorycycles.com/shimano-ulte...0-upgrade-kit/
You can look at what's in the kit and see if it matches whatever you were planning to buy. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that will show you how to install everything.
https://glorycycles.com/shimano-ulte...0-upgrade-kit/
You can look at what's in the kit and see if it matches whatever you were planning to buy. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that will show you how to install everything.
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I'm considering upgrading the Ultegra R8000 groupset on my Canyon CF SL 8.0 to Di2. Trying to get a handle on what parts I'll need. The lan is to do a simple, battery in the seat tube installation. So far, I figure I'll need the following,
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
ST R8050 11 speed disc shifters
Battery SM-BTR2/BT-DN110
Junc A SM-EW90-A/B
Wire EW-SD50-I
Junc B SM-JC41
Wire EW-JC130
What else will I need?
And forgive me if you are already familiar with Di2...But I'm still curious.
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The number and length of wires you'll need varies depending on whether you use the bar end junction A box and internal harness inside the bars. Obviously you'll need
Shifters
Frt derailleur
Rear derailleur
Battery
Charger/cord
B junction box
Some kind of A junction box and/or handlebar internal harness.
If you're not doing the harness in the bars you'll need a regular junction A box.
If you're going inside the bars you'll need the harness that works for your application and the inside-the-bar-end junction A. And the 2 port junction so you can connect the harness to the downtube wire.
Wires
Shifter to junction A (x 2), normally around 350mm
junction A to junction B (usually around 800-1000mm)
junction B to battery, front derailleur, rear derailleur.
You'll also need to figure out the best way to mount your internal battery, ie: which mounting kit you'll need.
Remember to get the wires long enough that you can install them w/ the junction B box outside the frame...for example if your bike has 410mm chainstays you can't order a 400 or 450mm wire, you'd need at least 500 or 550mm.
Shifters
Frt derailleur
Rear derailleur
Battery
Charger/cord
B junction box
Some kind of A junction box and/or handlebar internal harness.
If you're not doing the harness in the bars you'll need a regular junction A box.
If you're going inside the bars you'll need the harness that works for your application and the inside-the-bar-end junction A. And the 2 port junction so you can connect the harness to the downtube wire.
Wires
Shifter to junction A (x 2), normally around 350mm
junction A to junction B (usually around 800-1000mm)
junction B to battery, front derailleur, rear derailleur.
You'll also need to figure out the best way to mount your internal battery, ie: which mounting kit you'll need.
Remember to get the wires long enough that you can install them w/ the junction B box outside the frame...for example if your bike has 410mm chainstays you can't order a 400 or 450mm wire, you'd need at least 500 or 550mm.
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It helps to have access to a shop with a selection of cable lengths and that is willing to swap you for the
right cable length. Your install is much neater with cables ~1.5-3" longer than the actual distance
measured, which is not easily done (assumes mostly external wire runs). Also consider using the
MT800 variant of junction A, it gives
you the gear readout and battery life, but does require space on the handlebar. The bluetooth
module that mounts on the R rear seat stay gives the same info if you use a fancy enough
computer, ie it reads out on your computer. Also allow 0.5-7" loop of cable inside the brifter-
do not run the cable straight into the connector, but have a short loop under the rubber brifter
cover.
If junction B is inside the downtube, use up ALL of the plastic cable clip ons Shimano provides around
the B junction and add a few 4 or 6" cable ties snugged around the cable pointing in all directions
(don't cut off the long ends of the cable ties). This reduces the rattling around of the junction B
inside the tube, or just wrap some foam around it, if possible.
right cable length. Your install is much neater with cables ~1.5-3" longer than the actual distance
measured, which is not easily done (assumes mostly external wire runs). Also consider using the
MT800 variant of junction A, it gives
you the gear readout and battery life, but does require space on the handlebar. The bluetooth
module that mounts on the R rear seat stay gives the same info if you use a fancy enough
computer, ie it reads out on your computer. Also allow 0.5-7" loop of cable inside the brifter-
do not run the cable straight into the connector, but have a short loop under the rubber brifter
cover.
If junction B is inside the downtube, use up ALL of the plastic cable clip ons Shimano provides around
the B junction and add a few 4 or 6" cable ties snugged around the cable pointing in all directions
(don't cut off the long ends of the cable ties). This reduces the rattling around of the junction B
inside the tube, or just wrap some foam around it, if possible.
Last edited by sch; 09-15-20 at 08:27 PM.
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Jesus...they're shifters...
#9
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Not familiar with Di2, but VERY familiar with Campy EPS, having done a V1 installation and later a V3 upgrade on the same bike. What do I hope to gain? Easier and faster shifting. I'm none to fond of the amount of motion required to actuate the mechanical shifter. And braided steel cables have their own little maintenance quirks I'd like to avoid.
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Not familiar with Di2, but VERY familiar with Campy EPS, having done a V1 installation and later a V3 upgrade on the same bike. What do I hope to gain? Easier and faster shifting. I'm none to fond of the amount of motion required to actuate the mechanical shifter. And braided steel cables have their own little maintenance quirks I'd like to avoid.
When people want to upgrade to Di2 because they think it shifts better, I like to point out that it doesn't. A good mechanical Shimano groupset, properly-adjusted and maintained, shifts as quickly and cleanly as Di2. But Di2 does indeed require only a small tap on a paddle (not a press or push), and I have found that Shimano's mechanical 11sp groupsets do indeed shred RD cables rather quickly - usually within the shifter, sometimes to catastrophic results.
Are you going to get the bluetooth dongle? I highly recommend it, as it allows you to customize shifting with your phone (rather than plugging in a computer) and you'll get gearing and battery level readouts on your gps computer.
#11
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Fair enough, and thanks for indulging me.
When people want to upgrade to Di2 because they think it shifts better, I like to point out that it doesn't. A good mechanical Shimano groupset, properly-adjusted and maintained, shifts as quickly and cleanly as Di2. But Di2 does indeed require only a small tap on a paddle (not a press or push), and I have found that Shimano's mechanical 11sp groupsets do indeed shred RD cables rather quickly - usually within the shifter, sometimes to catastrophic results.
Are you going to get the bluetooth dongle? I highly recommend it, as it allows you to customize shifting with your phone (rather than plugging in a computer) and you'll get gearing and battery level readouts on your gps computer.
When people want to upgrade to Di2 because they think it shifts better, I like to point out that it doesn't. A good mechanical Shimano groupset, properly-adjusted and maintained, shifts as quickly and cleanly as Di2. But Di2 does indeed require only a small tap on a paddle (not a press or push), and I have found that Shimano's mechanical 11sp groupsets do indeed shred RD cables rather quickly - usually within the shifter, sometimes to catastrophic results.
Are you going to get the bluetooth dongle? I highly recommend it, as it allows you to customize shifting with your phone (rather than plugging in a computer) and you'll get gearing and battery level readouts on your gps computer.
BTW, I do have a coping of Shimano's dealer manual for the R8050 series. Unfortunately, Shimano's manuals are less than crystal clear. In an apparent attempt to cover all possible cases, the document ends up being poorly organized and it's diagrams are often not enlightening.
Last edited by bmcer; 09-16-20 at 12:16 PM.
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One of the reasons I went to the V3 EOS system was to get the gearing and battery level data. So yes, I'd like to include the "blue tooth dongle", but I'm not clear where it goes in the system. As I understand Di2 so far, I'll need wires from the R & L shifters to the A junction box which I plan to mount under that stem alá EPS, then a wire from the A box to the 4 port B box. The other 3 ports of the B box then take wires going to the battery, which I plan to mount in the seat tube, the front and rear derailleurs. So where/how exactly does the blue tooth "thingie go?
It's in that fat spot along the rear brake hose. The mechanic wrapped the two lines (BT wire and brake hose) in some plastic wrap to keep it together and protected. Seems to work as well as anywhere else I can imagine putting it - and since it's nice and close to the computer, there are never any problems with the connection.
If you are going with the standard A box that mounts under the stem, you might be able to just attach the dongle to that device - maybe a zip tie or electrical tape? Though again, there may be other ways to wire it up.
PS: You may not want to buy a new handlebar that allows this, but the A junction box that mounts in the bar end is slick - gives a much cleaner looking front end on your bike.
Last edited by Koyote; 09-16-20 at 12:17 PM.
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#13
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Koyote,
Thanks for the explanation. That clears up many of the details I was wondering about.
Thanks for the explanation. That clears up many of the details I was wondering about.
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#14
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I've run into a little complication. I'd prefer to use one of the many upgrade "kits" my searching has uncovered since they do offer a better price than buying components individually. Thing is, almost all of them that include the 8070 STI levers also include calipers and hydraulic lines that I don't need. So the search continues. If I can find a kit that includes the derailleurs and the electronics but no levers, that might work. It'll mean buying the 8070 levers separately, but if it comes to that, I can live with it.
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I've run into a little complication. I'd prefer to use one of the many upgrade "kits" my searching has uncovered since they do offer a better price than buying components individually. Thing is, almost all of them that include the 8070 STI levers also include calipers and hydraulic lines that I don't need. So the search continues. If I can find a kit that includes the derailleurs and the electronics but no levers, that might work. It'll mean buying the 8070 levers separately, but if it comes to that, I can live with it.
#16
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Agreed. But I'd rather not have to fuss with reselling them. Fortunately, I'm in no rush so I can wait it out.
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A subjective different opinion. I’ve run every version of Ultegra since it was called 600. Plus 2 different recent 105 systems as well as Ultegra Di2 for 3 years. I’ve installed systems on 20 bikes so far. Di2 shifts better than any mechanical system I’ve used. It’s snappier, quieter (except the front Cheep) and more reliable. Worth the upgrade ?, on a less then full priced carbon frame - yes. As an upgrade on a recent 105 or Ultegra bike ?, hard to justify unless you have cash to burn, which I did.
#18
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One of the few perks of getting older is a fixed but reliable income. Having done some planing along the way, we're comfortable. So the "justification" bar around here is pretty low. . First, is it something I'll enjoy? Second, will the minister of finance sign off on whatever cost is involved. Can't buy anything she's not sold on Actually, it's that second hurdle that took some work. Getting the parts needed figured out was the easy part.