SJX426 

1984 Trek 760 in Purple with Black rattel can paint on top. Any suggestions on removing the rattle can paint without seriously damaging the Imron?
WP_20141102_013, on Flickr
WP_20141102_003, on Flickr

I haven't found replacement decals for this model.

Mr. 66

It will take a while, it will probably come off with petrol, or a solvent of some type on a rag.

Is it missing a serial number?

Velo Mule

You can try acetone. It worked for me on removing a color coat without removing the next layer of silver paint. For me, since all the paint was new and single component, it did take off some of the next layer. With Imron, being a two component paint, and fully cured, you may have better results. One other bit of advice with acetone, don't let it sit on the paint. Keep wiping it. Try it on the bottom bracket chain stay area first and see how it works. Then let us know.

Doug Fattic 

One of the frames/bike I had made/painted got stolen and rattle can painted. When I recovered the frame, I used lacquer thinner (a fairly strong solvent) to remove the rattle can paint over the Imron paint. It does dull the shine a bit. Since I am a painter I used that as an opportunity to patch the chips and resprayed another coat of clear to bring it back like new. There are solvents that are less strong than lacquer thinner that might work. I buy these solvents at the auto paint stores that are designed to remove finger prints and any grease or other contaminants before putting on the next layers of paint. If I wasn't a painter I might have tried that 1st.

BFisher

I have removed rattle can from factory finishes with Citristrip from Lowes or Home Depot. No harsh solvents, and it removed the layer of rattle can without attacking the factory finish underneath. It usually attacks spray paint rather quickly. Even when I've tried to removed high quality factory finishes with it, it takes much longer to even begin working. I just let it wrinkle the spray paint and then wipe or gently scrape off with a plastic tool. Then you can wash away any residue with soap and water. Always best to spot test, as usual.

Velo Mule

If Doug Fattic says use Lacquer thinner, I would try that. It is less aggressive than acetone.

SJX426 

All Great responses, Thanks!

I will get some lacquer thinner. I think I have used it up. I have a gallon of Acetone but knowing how volatile it is, I am a bit hesitant.

Back in the late 70's I worked at Freightliner on Swan Island in Portland. All the cabs were painted with Imron, which had a good rep then. I was aware of it toughness.
A few years ago I stripped a Trek 610, which I believe was Imron panted. It took several min and a couple of attempts to get it stripped. I used the Aircraft Stripper to do it. Even then it was a chore. Still some left in the crevices!

Decal source? VeloCals doesn't list the 760, 720 yes.

Guess I can build a set if I can determine the stock set.

Last ride 76 

The only thing later formulations of Imron and seventies Imron have in common is the name. I guess the current 2k paints are tougher, I have no first hand experience. But I got some recently and will give it a try soon. I am aware of the safety requirements.
Regards, Eric

merziac

I have a good friend there now that is a painter, he just cleaned out a small warehouse of old Imron that was probably piling up since you were there.

They are still using it, I think the industrial consumers are the only ones that can afford to work with that wonderfully tough nasty stuff now days.

unworthy1

Lacquer thinner is mainly acetone, the other ingredients (which vary by brand and in proportions) can be solvents like MEK, Methanol, Toluene plus other "thickening" agents. Lac thinner will not evaporate as quickly as straight acetone, but any paint that can be stripped or damaged by acetone will (eventually) be as well with lac thinner. In my experience cured Imron is pretty tough paint and often can be cleaned of rattle can sprays without damaging it but would start with milder stuff first (like paint thinner, mineral spirits, white spirit, Stoddard's solvent, etc.) and see how that goes before "going harsher".

SJX426 

unworthy1 Sounds like good advice. Thanks! Will creep up on it. Don't know what is under all that stuff so it will be interesting to see.