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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

Over 500lbs and just bought a new bike

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Old 08-16-15, 05:43 PM
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nonfriction
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Over 500lbs and just bought a new bike

xxx

Last edited by nonfriction; 05-12-20 at 09:35 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-16-15, 06:46 PM
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Sweet looking bike! Enjoy it!
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Old 08-16-15, 07:28 PM
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Looks like a great ride! I kind of wish I had gone with a single speed cruiser style to start myself. All the upgrades you suggested sound good to me. I ended up going with 40 spoke cliffhangers.
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Old 08-16-15, 07:43 PM
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I would be very surprised if the seat post does not allow you to adjust the angle of the seat. there should be a bolt - usually an allen (hex) head under the seat post that both loosens the seat rail clamps AND allows for angle adjustment (loosen and push on it and it will move). some posts have more than one bolt, or its on the side, or whatever.. but you can adjust it.
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Old 08-16-15, 08:00 PM
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xxx

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Old 08-16-15, 08:03 PM
  #6  
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it will allow the seat to slide back and forth before it allows it to tilt. so you may have to loosen more- and also it can get "stuck" as it uses little friction teeth to hold it in place. so loosen and then hit it upward (usually your hand strength can do it) to disengage the teeth so it can tilt.
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Old 08-16-15, 08:14 PM
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at 365 pounds I found I had to go to a solid seat post..mine folded up on me like a cheap lawn chair the first time I hit a good size bump in the road....I replaced it with one of these and it's much safer for someone my size to ride now....might be a cheap upgrade worth looking into. He sells all different sizes and types of posts, straight, lay back 45, lay back 90, etc etc and can do custom length if you need more elevation...

I ordered a 7/8th solid post 16 inches total, 5 inch 45 degree layback with intent to sink 6 inches and elevate 5...can even get them in stainless steel if you prefer, I just got the primer black and hit it with a spray can of gloss black and called it good.

Mine ran 27.00 delivered ..... money well spent for my safety and comfort.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cruiser-bicy...item28058593e0
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Old 08-16-15, 08:22 PM
  #8  
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Cool looking bike, should be a blast to ride. Keep us updated as how things are going. We love hearing everybody's story here.
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Old 08-16-15, 08:32 PM
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nonfriction
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Old 08-17-15, 12:50 PM
  #10  
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Looks good! Go for it!!
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Old 08-17-15, 01:03 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by nonfriction
... finally found one I can ride for more than 20 feet.

I do have a couple of upgrades I would like to make:
  1. Replace the seatpost with one that lets me adjust the seat angle. The current seatpost has the front of the seat tilted up higher than I would like. It seems like this seatpost was designed for bikes with a straighter seat tube.
  2. Build some heavy duty wheels. I'm considering 26" 48H Velocity Cliffhangers with some Schwalbe Fat Franks. I'm trying to figure out which hubs I should use and determining if this frame can support disc brakes. The rear coaster break feels unnatural and I'd prefer at least a v-brake on the back.
  3. Add some fenders.

A great saddle can make a world of difference as well. A seatpost/seat combination that allows fore/aft adjustment along with tilt adjustment is, IMO, a vital feature to have on a bike. Even a couple millimeters of raising or lowering can be the difference between marginal pain and fairly decent comfort. Same with the fore/aft positioning. As your strength changes, you'll likely find adjusting that can help with comfort and with power you put down.

If replacing the seat tube, definitely look to its load-carrying capacity.

At the load your bike will be carrying, I'd certainly evaluate the wheels. If questionable for the loads, absolutely look into a wheel build geared around bomb-proof features. A larger tire can also help suck up the bumps, smooth out the ride. A 48H hub and rim can be a bit of a pig, weight-wise, but a high-quality 40H or 48H build can also be pretty darned bomb-proof. (Note: not all wheel builders are of high quality, or all that exacting.)

A good set of full-length fenders can help extend the time you ride, allowing you to avoid the "skunk stripe" of mud up the backside on damp days or when riding through a puddle or wet spot.

As for brakes ... Disk brakes require specific attachment points. So do caliper/v-brake setups as well. Depends on what your bike's seat stays and fork have in the way of such attachment points. That'll drive the decision. Keep in mind, too, that if you do put on full-length fenders along with big tires, you might be a bit pressed for reach on the brake's arms. They might not get high enough above the fender. Can easily acquire v-brakes with longer arms, or change to center-pull cantilever style brakes.

Have ridden a simple knock-around single-speed bike for years, here and there. They've always had a coaster brake. And I've occasionally not been in the realm of a svelte 150#. They've worked fine. Not the most powerful brakes, but then until you really start zipping around they ought to suffice. Easy to work on such hubs (all things considered), inexpensive to replace if need be. If doing a wheel rebuild, you can also consider putting in a contemporary, multi-speed internal-gear hub in the rear (ie, Shimano Nexus 8spd with coaster or roller brake).

Last edited by Clyde1820; 08-17-15 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 08-17-15, 02:55 PM
  #12  
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Can't add any advice, but I wish you a lot of enjoyment from your new bike.
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Old 08-17-15, 09:08 PM
  #13  
nonfriction
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Old 08-19-15, 01:11 AM
  #14  
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Look for Milwaukee Polo hubs.
They are 48 hole and single speed and reasonably priced.
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Old 08-19-15, 08:08 PM
  #15  
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Old 08-19-15, 09:22 PM
  #16  
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I don't have anything to offer at the moment. But just like a poster above said, we'll be glad to hear how things are going as time progresses.

Do you live in a winter climate? And do you plan to ride when the weather gets rough? I could help with a handful of winter 'hacks'.
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Old 08-20-15, 09:17 AM
  #17  
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Old 08-20-15, 08:04 PM
  #18  
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Yup! You want fenders.

Next thing that comes to mind is Bar-Mitts. Having warm and dry hands, as opposed to cold and wet hands, makes a whole world of difference. I make my own. Mostly because I'm cheap. But also because I can make sure that they fit my bars, my hands and my arms exactly the way that I want them.

I'd be glad to offer a few photos and instructions. Right now I'll spend a bit of time deciding whether to do it by PM in order to avoid cluttering up this thread. Or I might post it in this thread in case other readers might be interested.
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Old 08-21-15, 12:27 AM
  #19  
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Welcome from the other side of the pond.

Looks a great bike for cruising and commuting, we don't see many like that over here.

It looks like the type of bike you can take your time on and enjoy the ride without having to prove anything.

I'd stick with the coaster brake, add some mudguards aka fenders and a rear rack to carry items on.

You'll also need to think about fitting lights soon too.

48 spoke wheels as suggested would be a good upgrade.

Good luck and enjoy the bike!

Last edited by Beic; 08-21-15 at 12:30 AM.
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