Advice - Gravel Bike
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Advice - Gravel Bike
Hi,
i own a road bike and i am planning to buy a gravel bike.
I will use the gravel bike for quite long rides (5-6 hours) on asphalt and gravel.
what i am not sure of is the sizing of the new bike.
maybe you can help me?
i am 171cm tall with 76cm inseam
my road bike has :
TT=535mm
Reach=377mm
Stack=546mm
this bike fits me perfect.
the gravel bike, which i have to buy without testing has the following measurement:
TT=519mm
Reach=365mm
Stack=548mm
my concern is that the gravel bike is to small.
what do you think ?
thanks and sorry for my poor english
i own a road bike and i am planning to buy a gravel bike.
I will use the gravel bike for quite long rides (5-6 hours) on asphalt and gravel.
what i am not sure of is the sizing of the new bike.
maybe you can help me?
i am 171cm tall with 76cm inseam
my road bike has :
TT=535mm
Reach=377mm
Stack=546mm
this bike fits me perfect.
the gravel bike, which i have to buy without testing has the following measurement:
TT=519mm
Reach=365mm
Stack=548mm
my concern is that the gravel bike is to small.
what do you think ?
thanks and sorry for my poor english
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,885
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3242 Post(s)
Liked 2,087 Times
in
1,182 Posts
I tend to use “effective top tube” as the key measurement. All 3 of my road bikes are either 56cm ETT, or a 55 that has a 10mm longer stem than the 56 bikes, thus I would generally duplicate the measurements of the road bike if you think that’s a correct fit. I did this with my Cannondale Topstone, it fits perfectly,
Likes For Steve B.:
#3
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10965 Post(s)
Liked 7,492 Times
in
4,189 Posts
Assuming the head tube angle isnt drastically different, you could match the cockpit fit on your road bike with spacer swaps and a different stem(length/angle).
Whether you want to match the fit exactly is something to consider.
Whether you want to match the fit exactly is something to consider.
#4
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,663
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
1,020 Posts
Hi,
i own a road bike and i am planning to buy a gravel bike.
I will use the gravel bike for quite long rides (5-6 hours) on asphalt and gravel.
what i am not sure of is the sizing of the new bike.
maybe you can help me?
i am 171cm tall with 76cm inseam
my road bike has :
TT=535mm
Reach=377mm
Stack=546mm
this bike fits me perfect.
the gravel bike, which i have to buy without testing has the following measurement:
TT=519mm
Reach=365mm
Stack=548mm
my concern is that the gravel bike is to small.
i own a road bike and i am planning to buy a gravel bike.
I will use the gravel bike for quite long rides (5-6 hours) on asphalt and gravel.
what i am not sure of is the sizing of the new bike.
maybe you can help me?
i am 171cm tall with 76cm inseam
my road bike has :
TT=535mm
Reach=377mm
Stack=546mm
this bike fits me perfect.
the gravel bike, which i have to buy without testing has the following measurement:
TT=519mm
Reach=365mm
Stack=548mm
my concern is that the gravel bike is to small.
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My inseam is quite small to my body ratio, so i dont have many options regarding standover hight fitting.
So i compared reach and effective TT on the 2 bikes.
Effective TT is 16mm smaller on the gravel bike.
Reach as well is 12mm shorter.
So i compared reach and effective TT on the 2 bikes.
Effective TT is 16mm smaller on the gravel bike.
Reach as well is 12mm shorter.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,885
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3242 Post(s)
Liked 2,087 Times
in
1,182 Posts
if you have a good fit on your current road bike, I would not be getting a gravel that was that much smaller. 16 cm is easily a size smaller. Wrong bike
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
yes, i thought my road bike is a good fit.
but today i took a picture of me sitting on the bike and i was told that my arms are to stretched .
i would have posted the picture here, but i am not allowed
but today i took a picture of me sitting on the bike and i was told that my arms are to stretched .
i would have posted the picture here, but i am not allowed
#8
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10965 Post(s)
Liked 7,492 Times
in
4,189 Posts
I am guessing the STA of the gravel bike is steeper than your road bike, and that is what makes the ETT shorter? Regardless, a 16mm TT difference can often be negated with a saddle adjustment. Going from 0 offset to back 16mm would be the change.
#10
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,663
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
1,020 Posts
How about comparing your existing road bike to the same gravel bike but one size bigger?
#11
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,663
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
1,020 Posts
Likes For SoSmellyAir:
#12
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10965 Post(s)
Liked 7,492 Times
in
4,189 Posts
No, saddle adjustment, including its fore/aft positioning, should be set relative to the bottom bracket, to optimize pedaling. Saddle fore/aft should not be set to compensate for reach; doing so might negatively affect balance, e.g., too much weight supported by arms and hands. Reach can be compensated (within reason) by stem length.
Yes, I am well aware of how saddle setback should be set as well as stem length.
As you can see, earlier I guessed the STA was different. That would have, in past, explained the difference in vtt length. My comment about saddle adjustment was based on assuming the STA was different.
Since the STA is only .25deg different, my comment about saddle adjustment compensating for that difference is largely irrelevant.
Likes For mstateglfr:
#13
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10965 Post(s)
Liked 7,492 Times
in
4,189 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,885
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3242 Post(s)
Liked 2,087 Times
in
1,182 Posts
I would not be trying to make an incorrect bike size be closer to correct by assuming you can place the seat back on the rails. Bad advice, IMO.
#15
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10965 Post(s)
Liked 7,492 Times
in
4,189 Posts
I agree that moving the seatpost to adjust only for effective sitting reach is a bad idea. Saddle position should be set for maximum power output and knee/hip comfort.
As I posted early on, a stem swap can easily offset the difference in frame reach.
My apologies for that incorrect guess. Hopefully 2 explanations in the thread will be enough. Fingers crossed.
Likes For mstateglfr:
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i looked into different bike brands and what i noticed is that for the same size the Rose bikes have the shortest reach.
for example the next size (53) has a reach of just 368.5 mm.
for example the next size (53) has a reach of just 368.5 mm.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,100
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1400 Post(s)
Liked 1,885 Times
in
1,084 Posts
something to keep in mind
and while this might not influence top tube length (selection) - it can effect stem length (selection)
if you are going from rim brake to hydraulic disc brake - the hydraulic disc brake / shifter hoods can sit out further than rim brake / shifter hoods
and while this might not influence top tube length (selection) - it can effect stem length (selection)
if you are going from rim brake to hydraulic disc brake - the hydraulic disc brake / shifter hoods can sit out further than rim brake / shifter hoods
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
in the first post i wrote that the road bike fits me perfect... but from what i read i don't think it's the case anymore.
riding , i always hold my hands on the top corner of the handlebars ( called ramps / shoulders) and never on the brake/ shifter hoods, because i dont feel comfortable
the reach might be a little too big for me , so the 12mm shorter reach on the Rose bike should be ok
riding , i always hold my hands on the top corner of the handlebars ( called ramps / shoulders) and never on the brake/ shifter hoods, because i dont feel comfortable
the reach might be a little too big for me , so the 12mm shorter reach on the Rose bike should be ok
#21
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,369
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 517 Post(s)
Liked 645 Times
in
438 Posts
I'm not familiar with the specifics of either bike, so some general comments to consider.
once you have your saddle position set then the actual 'reach' to your position on the bars has 3 considerations, the distance from saddle (whatever you use for your sitzbone setting) to the steerer tube center, then the length & angle of stem and then the 'reach' from the stem bar clamp to where you mainly ride - if 'on the hoods' then that measurement - bars have different 'reaches.
So the sum of those 3. Also bar width has a very slight effect.
On your road bike, if you're not comfortable riding On The Hoods, then experimenting with varying stem lengths might help that. Also, handlebars with shorter reach is worth investigation.
That said.
When I first started looking at gravel bikes, they ALL had signfcantly shorter final/total reach than any of my road bikes - even in a larger size. So I decided to ignore that. Deciding that a long stem would handle the difference of 10 to 15 mm in total reach.
After riding the gravel bike, unchanged, I was having no issues with the shorter reach. Generally I like the slightly more upright position/posture for seeing better the surface ahead. What I ride is not graded gravel roads, it's mostly what I call 'mountain biking Light' - single track without heavy technical stuff, like rock gardens or hairy descents or close contact to rcks and trees.
Certainly not the 'aero' position I search for when riding real 'road'.
You say the Rose is 'used', so maybe you can get a short ride on it? Even after a short distance, I can usually make determinations on the existing setup/position on a bike, and then go from there to make position modifications.
Making 'adjustments', when it comes to stem and bar can be complicated of the bike has proprietary fork/stem/bar parts... worth considering or certainly noting...
Other things can (and do) have a great effect on how a bike handles - like 'Front -Center', which is the dimension from center of BB to center of Front wheel (the hub).
The numbers you quote are all workable - go test ride, if possible.
Ride On
Yuri
once you have your saddle position set then the actual 'reach' to your position on the bars has 3 considerations, the distance from saddle (whatever you use for your sitzbone setting) to the steerer tube center, then the length & angle of stem and then the 'reach' from the stem bar clamp to where you mainly ride - if 'on the hoods' then that measurement - bars have different 'reaches.
So the sum of those 3. Also bar width has a very slight effect.
On your road bike, if you're not comfortable riding On The Hoods, then experimenting with varying stem lengths might help that. Also, handlebars with shorter reach is worth investigation.
That said.
When I first started looking at gravel bikes, they ALL had signfcantly shorter final/total reach than any of my road bikes - even in a larger size. So I decided to ignore that. Deciding that a long stem would handle the difference of 10 to 15 mm in total reach.
After riding the gravel bike, unchanged, I was having no issues with the shorter reach. Generally I like the slightly more upright position/posture for seeing better the surface ahead. What I ride is not graded gravel roads, it's mostly what I call 'mountain biking Light' - single track without heavy technical stuff, like rock gardens or hairy descents or close contact to rcks and trees.
Certainly not the 'aero' position I search for when riding real 'road'.
You say the Rose is 'used', so maybe you can get a short ride on it? Even after a short distance, I can usually make determinations on the existing setup/position on a bike, and then go from there to make position modifications.
Making 'adjustments', when it comes to stem and bar can be complicated of the bike has proprietary fork/stem/bar parts... worth considering or certainly noting...
Other things can (and do) have a great effect on how a bike handles - like 'Front -Center', which is the dimension from center of BB to center of Front wheel (the hub).
The numbers you quote are all workable - go test ride, if possible.
Ride On
Yuri
#22
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,663
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata GRX
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1948 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
1,020 Posts
in the first post i wrote that the road bike fits me perfect... but from what i read i don't think it's the case anymore.
riding , i always hold my hands on the top corner of the handlebars ( called ramps / shoulders) and never on the brake/ shifter hoods, because i dont feel comfortable
the reach might be a little too big for me , so the 12mm shorter reach on the Rose bike should be ok
riding , i always hold my hands on the top corner of the handlebars ( called ramps / shoulders) and never on the brake/ shifter hoods, because i dont feel comfortable
the reach might be a little too big for me , so the 12mm shorter reach on the Rose bike should be ok
You will soon get to 10 posts and post a photo of your current bike from the side, so that an imaginary line between your camera lens and where your stem clamps onto your steerer is parallel to the ground, so others can chime in on your handlebar setup.
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm not familiar with the specifics of either bike, so some general comments to consider.
once you have your saddle position set then the actual 'reach' to your position on the bars has 3 considerations, the distance from saddle (whatever you use for your sitzbone setting) to the steerer tube center, then the length & angle of stem and then the 'reach' from the stem bar clamp to where you mainly ride - if 'on the hoods' then that measurement - bars have different 'reaches.
So the sum of those 3. Also bar width has a very slight effect.
On your road bike, if you're not comfortable riding On The Hoods, then experimenting with varying stem lengths might help that. Also, handlebars with shorter reach is worth investigation.
That said.
When I first started looking at gravel bikes, they ALL had signfcantly shorter final/total reach than any of my road bikes - even in a larger size. So I decided to ignore that. Deciding that a long stem would handle the difference of 10 to 15 mm in total reach.
After riding the gravel bike, unchanged, I was having no issues with the shorter reach. Generally I like the slightly more upright position/posture for seeing better the surface ahead. What I ride is not graded gravel roads, it's mostly what I call 'mountain biking Light' - single track without heavy technical stuff, like rock gardens or hairy descents or close contact to rcks and trees.
Certainly not the 'aero' position I search for when riding real 'road'.
You say the Rose is 'used', so maybe you can get a short ride on it? Even after a short distance, I can usually make determinations on the existing setup/position on a bike, and then go from there to make position modifications.
Making 'adjustments', when it comes to stem and bar can be complicated of the bike has proprietary fork/stem/bar parts... worth considering or certainly noting...
Other things can (and do) have a great effect on how a bike handles - like 'Front -Center', which is the dimension from center of BB to center of Front wheel (the hub).
The numbers you quote are all workable - go test ride, if possible.
Ride On
Yuri
once you have your saddle position set then the actual 'reach' to your position on the bars has 3 considerations, the distance from saddle (whatever you use for your sitzbone setting) to the steerer tube center, then the length & angle of stem and then the 'reach' from the stem bar clamp to where you mainly ride - if 'on the hoods' then that measurement - bars have different 'reaches.
So the sum of those 3. Also bar width has a very slight effect.
On your road bike, if you're not comfortable riding On The Hoods, then experimenting with varying stem lengths might help that. Also, handlebars with shorter reach is worth investigation.
That said.
When I first started looking at gravel bikes, they ALL had signfcantly shorter final/total reach than any of my road bikes - even in a larger size. So I decided to ignore that. Deciding that a long stem would handle the difference of 10 to 15 mm in total reach.
After riding the gravel bike, unchanged, I was having no issues with the shorter reach. Generally I like the slightly more upright position/posture for seeing better the surface ahead. What I ride is not graded gravel roads, it's mostly what I call 'mountain biking Light' - single track without heavy technical stuff, like rock gardens or hairy descents or close contact to rcks and trees.
Certainly not the 'aero' position I search for when riding real 'road'.
You say the Rose is 'used', so maybe you can get a short ride on it? Even after a short distance, I can usually make determinations on the existing setup/position on a bike, and then go from there to make position modifications.
Making 'adjustments', when it comes to stem and bar can be complicated of the bike has proprietary fork/stem/bar parts... worth considering or certainly noting...
Other things can (and do) have a great effect on how a bike handles - like 'Front -Center', which is the dimension from center of BB to center of Front wheel (the hub).
The numbers you quote are all workable - go test ride, if possible.
Ride On
Yuri
Hi Yuri,
I appreciate the information, i will take it in consideration
i agree , a test ride would have been the best thing.
unfortunately the bike is 600km away
#24
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The ramps are an occasional resting spot. You should try to ride on the hoods most of the time for quicker access to the brake levers, in case of emergencies.
You will soon get to 10 posts and post a photo of your current bike from the side, so that an imaginary line between your camera lens and where your stem clamps onto your steerer is parallel to the ground, so others can chime in on your handlebar setup.
You will soon get to 10 posts and post a photo of your current bike from the side, so that an imaginary line between your camera lens and where your stem clamps onto your steerer is parallel to the ground, so others can chime in on your handlebar setup.
#25
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts