Cone pitting
#26
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Yep, I meant to say cups. I like your explanation too on the lesser distance of the bearing track. Interestingly, I’ve seldom had a bad cup, so I should be thankful for that at least.
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Another question is how deep are the pits? Or are they even pits? Often I have seen super shallow changes in old Peugeot/Simplex Cones that were simply a change in color and not pits at all. A simple cleaning with 440 sand paper and they polished out just fine.
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
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Last edited by zandoval; 03-20-24 at 01:54 PM.
#29
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Another question is how deep are the pits? Or are they even pits? Often I have seen super shallow changes in old Peugeot/Simplex Cones that were simply a change in color and not pits at all. A simple cleaning with 440 sand paper and they polished out just fine.
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
When you have saved enough old ones, do a mass cleaning and you have slingshot ammo.
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#30
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This is the one you'll more often see in bike shops, I think.
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I've got one of those too, but it just clamps the axle. The Stein tool allows the axle to be compressed (shortened) by the quick release *while* the bearings are being adjusted. There's no quesswork about how much the bearing pre-load changes when the wheel is subsequently installed on the bike.
#32
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Good point... you'd be able to rotate the axle and feel for interferences better if the wheel wasn't clamped in a vise. I guess the Stein tool could be released from the vise as well.
#33
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Good point. IMO, it's absolutely critical to be able to rotate the axle in fingers for proper preload adjustment, rotating the wheel has too much leverage, you won't feel things.
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