road1bike

I purchased a 2013 Specialized Allez Compact Sport.( Craigslist $600) My previous bike was a Giant Sedona.

Bike is fast and light, rode it 3 miles today. I'm 5'11" and the bike is a 52.

The riding position is different, feels like I'm about to go over the front compared to the giant where I was straight up! The steering is pinpoint, bike is light.

My questions:

1. Is there any way I can adjust the bike so I don't feel so forward falling?
2. The bike has steel pedals what are some decent clip on pedals and shoes going for/ Brands I should look at?
3. Do people still use the cage type pedal that you slide your shoe in?
4. No kickstand is different.

On my previous bike I would be exhausted after 25 miles , new goal is 50 mile ride.

Thanks for any help you can provide, looking forward to learning from you.

PS. Just read about weight limits. I'm 260, is that a problem?


Is there anything else I need to know? Buy? that would help me? tools parts etc.

ClydesMoose

Shoes, I run these: https://www.zappos.com/shimano-sh-r087g-gray With these pedals: https://www.lookcycle.com/en/int/rout.../keo-easy.html Inexpensive, and work fine for me.

Beaker

1. You probably need to give yourself some time to adjust to road bike geometry/position compared to the Sedona. Having said that, advice over the Internet is almost worthless. You should consider taking into a bike shop where someone might be able to give you a quick/cheap bike fit. What is the saddle to bar drop on your new bike?
2. Looks are good, you could also consider Shimano SPD's - simple and cheap
3. Not much
4. Shoudn't affect your riding much.

BoomMcNasty

At 5' 11" a 52cm bike may be a little too small for you (maybe).

1. try moving your saddle back a little bit and if that doesn't help you may want to look into a longer stem.
2. personally I like Sidi shoes but there are lots to choose from so I would go to your LBS and try some on. I like the Look Keo Classic pedals my shop talked me into for their cost and ease of use.
3. yes.
4. you get used to it (I did).

DXchulo

Probably. I'm 5'7" on a good day and I ride a 52cm. I know frames are sized differently and we all have different arm/leg lengths, but 5'11" and 52cm seems pretty far off. I doubt you can even find a pro (who generally ride smaller frames) who is 5'11" and rides a 52.

ultraman6970

Don't want to sound mean ok? but you got the wrong size... the 52 is 537mm effective top tube... you need at least the next size that is 548mm effective top tube. I dare to say that you are between sizes... because the next bigger 565mm could work as well.

You can make it work but you might need at least a 12 cm stem (IMO 13), all the seat back you could get and flip the stem (not looking up), do not slam the stem.

Just being honest with you, sure the seller told you that was fine too... if it helps you got a good deal in the bike.

road1bike

Thanks for all of your responses. Every bike I trid some stores told me I was a 54, or 52.When I stand over this bike I have about 1/2 to 1 inch clearance. On the 54 inch bike my crotch was on the bar, not a good feeling. The owners manual said I should have 2 inches of clearance from the bar.

I can see I'm in over my head with the language of bikes!

Beaker, what is a saddle to bar drop? Is that the difference between the seat height and the handle bar? or the frame bar?

Beaker

The height difference from the upper surface of the saddle to the upper surface of the flat part of your handlebars. Coming from your prior bike, I wouldn't think you'd want much drop, the previous owner of your bike might have set it up with more drop however.

Carloswithac

Post a picture of you on the bike? I'm 6' and can't see myself riding a 52 cm frame...

road1bike

from the floor to the top of the seat is 37 3/4 inches
From the floor to the top of the handlebars is 35 1/5 inches.

Would it make a difference if I was 5'11" and 180 lbs, or 5"11" and 260 pounds?
When I stand over he seat I can not lift the bike one inch.

I have not made any adjustments to the bike.


Ultraman, what does this mean?

You can make it work but you might need at least a 12 cm stem (IMO 13), all the seat back you could get and flip the stem (not looking up), do not slam the stem.

MetalPedaler

Something is wrong if you hit your crotch on a 54cm. I'm 5'10" with a 31" inseam (not long-legged) and I ride a traditional race geometry (not compact/not sloping top tube) 55cm.

A 52cm is way too small for you- a 54 - 57 should work for you. 55 or 56 probably being ideal.

Yes, some of us still use old-fashioned toe clips- they work just as good as they always have, and you don't need special shoes. (My average ride is 25 miles).

Sorry, dude, but there's just no way that a 52cm is going to work for someone who's 5'11".

Beaker

OK, so you have ~2.5" drop (not huge, but very different than your other bike I'll bet) and agreeing with others, 52 sounds small. Stand over height really doesn't mean anything, but reach does. If you have shorter legs but a longer torso, then a smaller frame will bunch you up. Depending where you want to go with this, posting a pic of you on the bike will probably help folks make useful suggestions, but someone seeing you in person is best.

MetalPedaler

The seat height can be adjusted. It's the height of the top tube (the tube that runs from ubnder the seat to the handlebars) that matters. If the seat height is adjusted properly on a properly-sized bike, you usually can not put your feet flat on the ground when seated. (Road bikes are a lot different than mountain bikes)

No, it would not make a difference. You should not be able to lift the bike at all if standing over the seat. On a properly sized and properly adjusted bike, you should not be able to stand over the seat, period.

They're not going to help much, anyway. The bike is too small for you. You may be able to tweak it to make it work a LITTLE better- but it'[ll never be comfortable, and may even injur you on long rides. Best bet is to sell it and get a bike that fits.


It means your stem should be oriented that it raises your handlebars.....and a very long stem would put the bars out further ahead of you....but the geometry will never be right- I wouldn't put any money into it. It doesn't fit. It will never fit. (And I'm not one of those fuss-budgets who moans and groans over a few millimeters- But this is ridiculous- the bike is just too small for you- end of story. And it sucks, 'cause it sounds like you got a good deal on a nice bike.)

BoomMcNasty

It's not a weight thing, It's a height thing.
I just posted this in another thread but you may find it useful. Follow their instructions to find out your proportions and use it to see how far off the bike size actually is.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

If you're just a little bit off your "ideal" size some minor adjustments could be all it takes for you to be comfortable.
If you're considerably off in size then you can worry about switching things out or whatever it else it may take to get things right.

road1bike

I have a 30" inseam and I just measured the top of the frame to the ground, midway from the seat post to the stem, and it was 29 1/2 inches.

What can I look for from a performance standpoint that would tell me I'm having issues with the bike being too small? I only rode it for about three miles and the bike felt long to me, the drop was severe come off of a hybrid. I was thinking about lowering the seat maybe a half an inch.



It is a two month old bike, so I think I can always sell it and get a larger bike if needed.

BoomMcNasty

You should take it to a shop, get a basic fit and see what they say. All things point to the bike being too small. Better to find out now so you can sell it (if need be) before summer, better sooner than later.

BoomMcNasty

Do the whole thing, beginning to end and see what size bike it recommends.

BTW, if followed all the way through, the fit Calc it will give all the measurements you need if you do end up buying a new bike.

Never underestimate the power of a good bike shop. Especially if you don't know what your doing. It worked for me!

MetalPedaler

O-K, coming from a hybrid type bike, a road bike is going to feel weird to begin with. You do have short legs for your height- which probably means that you have a long torso- so a small bike will be even harder on you, and, standover may be an issue on a properly-sized bike. Don't worry about standover though- unless you get a biuke with a sloping top-tube, you'll likely be maxed out on standover on a bike that fits you....just learn to deal with that when you get a bigger bike, by standing on the pedals as you dismount from the seat, then leaning the bike to one side as you put one foot to the ground, so your nads can clear the top tube.

Performance-wise, on a too-small bike, you're likely to experience numbness; pain; the bike interfering with various body parts; discomfort; inefficiency joint issues....which brings me to another point- it already sounds like your seat is too low. I don't think I'd lower it any more. Raise the handlebars instead...if possible.

To get an idea of where your seat should be, sit on the bike and position one of the pedals in the 6:00 O'clock position (straight down)- with your foot on that pedal being level, your leg should have just a slight (maybe 15-20*) bend in it. If your seat is so low that your leg has more of a bend, then you will likely not be able to pedal efficiently (especially on hills); will have comfort issue on longish rides...and even risk injury to your knees.

road1bike

I think I'll sell it and start over. Thanks for the help, I'll let you know what I get.

Be safe on the roads!

MetalPedaler

That fit calc that Mr. McNasty linked to is GREAT! I used it when purchasing my first bike (mail-order) and that bike fits me like a glove!

IMO, a bike fitting at a shop would just be throwing money down the terlit. They'll tell you wahat you already know (or can find out for free on that calc), and may even try and sell you stuff to try and get your bike to work somewhat better.

As others have said, if you can post a pic here of yourself on the bike (preferably with pedal positioned as described above) it would help greatly.

ultraman6970

I dont know what I see this thread to become similar to the guy at the mechanics thread, the one with the chain slipping big time.

BoomMcNasty

Got a link ultra? I went over there and realized I don't know what thread I'm looking for.

jerrycan42

Really depends on the geometry. My bike is a 52.5 cm frame and I'm 5'11" as well. acording to the makers website, my 52cm frame is a "Large". Like others have mentioned, the top tube length may play a more important role here...

MetalPedaler

True....but looking at the geometry for OP's bike https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...mpact#geometry , it only has a TT length of 537mm and s reach of only 385 -which is ridiculous for a 5'11" rider...especially if he has a long torso. (I'm 5'10" and feel comfy on a TT of 565...and that is with a smallish fit- as I prefer the "pro" type fit, as opposed to being stretched-out)

Looks like (from the geo chart) a 56cm in that model would be more his speed- albeit, the standover for the 56 is over 32" (seems to be the trend lately- surprising for a compact, eh?)....but he can learn to deal with that- at least he'd be comfortable riding.....

road1bike

I really feel stupid! I guess I should have started here first. I completed the deal at my local bike shop, they put the bike on a rack told me it was a great bike at a great price, verified that they sold the bike new in December, but never suggested it was too small for me.

I never thought buying a bike could be so technical!

I was looking for a road bike at $1,000 price point. I only ride on pave bike paths, riding for fitness, Is the specialized too much of a race bike for my needs?

Beautiful bike Jerry!