Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Rear Wheel Won't Drop In

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Rear Wheel Won't Drop In

Old 04-11-20, 03:17 PM
  #1  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rear Wheel Won't Drop In

I took out my rear wheel to replace a popped tube and now I am unable to get it to drop back in. No components were changed in the process except the tube. I also slightly tigtened the rear casette beacuase it was so loose it could be undone by hand.

I am fairly certain it is not an issue with the chain getting in the way. I have already tried deflating the tire, loosening the brakes. It feels like the wheel is getting caught on the casette side drop out,







justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 03:28 PM
  #2  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,999

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,791 Times in 2,270 Posts
Sometimes some slight prying wider of the drop out width is needed. Sometimes the drop out can develop a burr which hinders axle entry. Usually a bit of "playing with/wiggling/slap of the hand on the tire" will let the axle settle in.

One test is to remove the wheel and place it along side the frame and see if that close axle end fits into the drop out slot, one side at a time. Another test is to reverse the wheel so the cassette is on the LH side. If that works then reverse back and retry.

Generally this type of problem requires looking for the hang up and that we can't do long distance with the photos provided. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 03:34 PM
  #3  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Sometimes some slight prying wider of the drop out width is needed. Sometimes the drop out can develop a burr which hinders axle entry. Usually a bit of "playing with/wiggling/slap of the hand on the tire" will let the axle settle in.

One test is to remove the wheel and place it along side the frame and see if that close axle end fits into the drop out slot, one side at a time. Another test is to reverse the wheel so the cassette is on the LH side. If that works then reverse back and retry.

Generally this type of problem requires looking for the hang up and that we can't do long distance with the photos provided. Andy
I have tried literally everything. Pulling the frame to widen the space between the two drops, slapping the tire, pushing hard, adjusting the angle ... nothing seems to work

I will try to reverse the wheel and see if that works.

Is there any way I could provide better photos?

Please help, im slowing loosing my mind after working on this for over a hour
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 04:36 PM
  #4  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Sometimes some slight prying wider of the drop out width is needed. Sometimes the drop out can develop a burr which hinders axle entry. Usually a bit of "playing with/wiggling/slap of the hand on the tire" will let the axle settle in.

One test is to remove the wheel and place it along side the frame and see if that close axle end fits into the drop out slot, one side at a time. Another test is to reverse the wheel so the cassette is on the LH side. If that works then reverse back and retry.

Generally this type of problem requires looking for the hang up and that we can't do long distance with the photos provided. Andy
The side opposite the cassette drops in when you work it. The issue is the casette side. I am able to get the wheel to fit in between, but it will not rest on the left side of the frame, it looks like it is resting on the quick connect.

It almost feels as if the piece attached to the cassette/wheel is too large to fit on the frame. Is it possible I am missing a component?


This is how the cassette side looked when I got the left side to fully drop in. The cassette side wont rest on the drame, just on the quick release




justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 04:45 PM
  #5  
blamester
Blamester
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 1,043

Bikes: Peugeot teamline

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 264 Post(s)
Liked 122 Times in 101 Posts
Has the derailleur hangar moved?
​​​​​​Try the nds side in it but from the outside
so the wheel is outside the frame. You might get a better look at what is catching it.
But it was in there before so it will go back in.
Did it come out easily?
blamester is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 04:58 PM
  #6  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts

See the gap between the frame

See the gap

See gap

See gap

Same as last photo with quick connect attached. Wheel wont sit on the frame

Same as last photo, different angle. See gap

right side will lay in with no issue

right side laying in with no issue
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:05 PM
  #7  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by blamester
Has the derailleur hangar moved?
​​​​​​Try the nds side in it but from the outside
so the wheel is outside the frame. You might get a better look at what is catching it.
But it was in there before so it will go back in.
Did it come out easily?
I do not believe the derailleur hanger has moved ... but I did set the bike down on a rag so it is possible.

I dont think sliding it in from the outside with help. The outside portion (red) of the derailler hanger has a slightly larger opening than the inside portion (black/silver)

It came out without much issue,

Doesnt make any sense to me....
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:29 PM
  #8  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The only thing I can think of at this point is either:

1. The part of the wheel I am trying to rest on the frame is simply too large. Maybe I lost the component that is actually supposed to lay on the frame?

2. I bent the portion of the frame that the wheel is supposed to lay on such that the wheel can no longer fit. I am tempted to take a file and try to file down the portion of the frame where the wheel is supposed to lay on.






justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:36 PM
  #9  
Moe Zhoost
Half way there
 
Moe Zhoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,955

Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times in 526 Posts
Odd that it came out without an issue. Your pictures are good; however they really don't tell me much other than it does appear that there may be a bit of an interference discrepancy. Do you happen to have a caliper to do some measurements? Measurements would be helpful to pinpoint.

Also have you tried to insert the wheel with the bike upright and not on the stand, as you would after an on the road repair? Do you have another wheel (or hub) that you could try?
Moe Zhoost is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:45 PM
  #10  
Pirkaus
Coffin Dodger
 
Pirkaus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,138

Bikes: Motobecane Vent Noir, Lynskey R345, Serotta Nova Special X

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 794 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times in 143 Posts
It appears to by a Mavic Aksium wheel. Is it possible the cassette side axle nut is backwards. See attached diagram.
Diagram
Pirkaus is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:51 PM
  #11  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pirkaus
It appears to by a Mavic Aksium wheel. Is it possible the cassette side axle nut is backwards. See attached diagram.
Diagram
Forgive me, I am a little new to this. Should I be looking at the top or bottom image of the diagram. Which number is the cassette side axle nut?

Thanks,
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 05:53 PM
  #12  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Moe Zhoost
Odd that it came out without an issue. Your pictures are good; however they really don't tell me much other than it does appear that there may be a bit of an interference discrepancy. Do you happen to have a caliper to do some measurements? Measurements would be helpful to pinpoint.

Also have you tried to insert the wheel with the bike upright and not on the stand, as you would after an on the road repair? Do you have another wheel (or hub) that you could try?
I do not have a caliper at home but I am going to work on getting one...

I have tried inserting the wheel upright as well as facing down. All of the attached images are with the bike laying upright (on the saddle) as it would be duing a on the road repair. I do not have another wheel or hub.

thank you again for your help
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 06:04 PM
  #13  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,825

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 128 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4742 Post(s)
Liked 3,860 Times in 2,509 Posts
Is the chain on the same cog as the derailleur? (I generally put the rear derailleur in high gear - smallest cog with the shifter before I take it out. THen I make sure I drop the chain on that smallest cog when I replace the wheel.)

Ben

Edit: other possibilities: If one side is going in first, the rim/tire may be hanging up on the brake pad. I've had frames where I've had to stretch the dropouts apart a touch to get the wheel to drop in.

Last edited by 79pmooney; 04-11-20 at 06:14 PM.
79pmooney is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 06:06 PM
  #14  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,999

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,791 Times in 2,270 Posts
Pirkaus might have it. I haven't worked with many Mavic wheels with the bearing adjustment that requires the bearing preload sleeve (what many will mistakenly call the cone) to be replaced with each adjustment. But the second series of photos seem to show the RH axle end is now too large in diameter to fit the drop out. Good photos and angles this time. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 06:43 PM
  #15  
Bill Kapaun
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,822

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1774 Post(s)
Liked 1,230 Times in 851 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Pirkaus might have it. I haven't worked with many Mavic wheels with the bearing adjustment that requires the bearing preload sleeve (what many will mistakenly call the cone) to be replaced with each adjustment. But the second series of photos seem to show the RH axle end is now too large in diameter to fit the drop out. Good photos and angles this time. Andy
It looks like some kind of sleeve over the axle end.
I would expect both ends of the axle to show equal threads.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
Old 04-11-20, 07:37 PM
  #16  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pirkaus
It appears to by a Mavic Aksium wheel. Is it possible the cassette side axle nut is backwards. See attached diagram.
Diagram
If I am understanding correctly, is the cassette side axle nut what lays inside the 14 prong "sleeve" / the nut with the circular end which is supposed to lay on the frame (what is circled in red)? Please note the circled part is a single piece which both tightens the casette and (I believe) sits on the frame. If that is the case I believe it is nearly impossible the part circled in red is backwards because it has a slight outward arch, as does the "sleeve" with the 14 prongs. I know this makes no sense, but it seems as if the circular portion is larger than the drop in on the casette side of the frame. The part circled in red is what seems to be getting caught every time / not fitting fully in the frame. I wish I could take it off to see if it fits in the frame's drop in without the wheel but I dont have the proper socket or a chain whip.......


Last edited by justbike; 04-11-20 at 07:45 PM.
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 08:02 PM
  #17  
darkhorse75
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by justbike
Forgive me, I am a little new to this. Should I be looking at the top or bottom image of the diagram. Which number is the cassette side axle nut?

Thanks,
You should be looking at the top image in particular the part on the farthest right. There is a possibility it is on backwards on your wheel. The lack of serration on the face of the locknut is a giveaway. You'll probably need a chainwhip to get the cassette lockring off to get at it.
darkhorse75 is offline  
Likes For darkhorse75:
Old 04-11-20, 08:54 PM
  #18  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,999

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,791 Times in 2,270 Posts
The cassette is held onto the freehub body with the splined ID locking cap/ring, just outside of the axle end that is circled in red. Just like a standard hub set up. What is different is that RH axle end, compared to common loose ball hubs. IIRC Mavic's right side axle end cap retains the freehub body (and this is maybe what the OP was referencing when they mentioned "tightening up the cassette"). I believe this RH side of the system is not adjustable and the axle is not threaded to achieve this, only to bottom out the RH end cap to secure the FH body. It's the LH side that the bearing preload is done at. The cartridge bearing rides on a sleeve that threads onto the axle and the lock nut traps this. But there's some aspect of this system that is compressed/deformed so that it is not to be reused after removal (unlike previous Mavic pin tool worked preload rings). (When I was explained this years ago I rolled my eyes at the need to replace parts when a bearing adjustment or replacement was done. They claimed lower cost to produce the hub, yet the shop or customer would bear the cost done the road during maintenance). I could have some of this wrong, it's been quite a few years. But it should be a simple discovery to remove the RH axle end cap and see if it's reversible and thus if that will allow it to enter the drop out slot. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 04-11-20, 08:58 PM
  #19  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by darkhorse75
You should be looking at the top image in particular the part on the farthest right. There is a possibility it is on backwards on your wheel. The lack of serration on the face of the locknut is a giveaway. You'll probably need a chainwhip to get the cassette lockring off to get at it.
That is a very interesting point but I do not beleive its the case because the interior of the nut is not threaded so how would it tighten in the other direction?

The lack of serration/thread on the exterior is logical given the side opposite is serraded but I do not believe that the cassette side is supposed to be threaded ... I came to this conclusion as the frame has indentation from the threading on the side opposite the cassette from laying on threaded nut but the other side is smooth. See attached.

One again, I want to thank everyone for trying to help me solve this mystery. I have been trying to avoid the LBS because I am located in NY, the epicenter of the virus in the US - plus I figured it would be nice to learn some mechanics. Of course, a simple tire change has turned into a ordeal that has taken up pretty much my whole day.


Cassette side of the frame. No thread marks in the metal. Indicates to me this side likely had a smooth piece sitting on it


Side of frame opposite the cassette. Imprint of threads in the frame's metal indicates to me the frame was sitting on the threaded portion of the wheel
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 09:05 PM
  #20  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
The cassette is held onto the freehub body with the splined ID locking cap/ring, just outside of the axle end that is circled in red. Just like a standard hub set up. What is different is that RH axle end, compared to common loose ball hubs. IIRC Mavic's right side axle end cap retains the freehub body (and this is maybe what the OP was referencing when they mentioned "tightening up the cassette"). I believe this RH side of the system is not adjustable and the axle is not threaded to achieve this, only to bottom out the RH end cap to secure the FH body. It's the LH side that the bearing preload is done at. The cartridge bearing rides on a sleeve that threads onto the axle and the lock nut traps this. But there's some aspect of this system that is compressed/deformed so that it is not to be reused after removal (unlike previous Mavic pin tool worked preload rings). (When I was explained this years ago I rolled my eyes at the need to replace parts when a bearing adjustment or replacement was done. They claimed lower cost to produce the hub, yet the shop or customer would bear the cost done the road during maintenance). I could have some of this wrong, it's been quite a few years. But it should be a simple discovery to remove the RH axle end cap and see if it's reversible and thus if that will allow it to enter the drop out slot. Andy
Andy,

Thank you for your help. I will try and reverse it when I can get ahold of a chainwhip and the proper socket to remove the casette. That being said, from what I can see, I do not believe the nut is on backwards as I do not see any threads on the inside, at least on the portion currently facing outwards so I am unsure how you could tightening it in the other direction....
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 09:15 PM
  #21  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,999

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,791 Times in 2,270 Posts
Again my memory is not solid but I believe the RH axle end has a hex wrench fitting (5mm?) to hold the axle stationary while the axle end cap is turned with a common open end wrench (17mm?). On other mavic freehub systems the cassette can remain on the FH body during this.

But to answer my comment, what did you turn to tighten the cassette? I should try to find the Mavic service instructions, maybe later. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 04-11-20, 09:36 PM
  #22  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Again my memory is not solid but I believe the RH axle end has a hex wrench fitting (5mm?) to hold the axle stationary while the axle end cap is turned with a common open end wrench (17mm?). On other mavic freehub systems the cassette can remain on the FH body during this.

But to answer my comment, what did you turn to tighten the cassette? I should try to find the Mavic service instructions, maybe later. Andy
Andy,

Thanks for all your help. To tighten, I used a standard 17mm socket on the cassette side while holding the other side with a 13mm wrench. Of course this was not ideal as I could only tighten until the cassette side nut became flush with the ring with the 14 prongs as I did not have the specialised cassette socket. See attached images.

I do think you are correct that the center of the 17mm nut I tightened could be held with an allen key or a hexagonal socket, but I did it the way explained above.


I heald the part circled and pointed to with a 13mm wrench. It is a round piece with two flat sides which were easy to hold on to

While spinning this piece with a 17mm socket. Worked well until it was flush with the cover which has the 14 pronges. Definently didnt make it to the reccomended 40nm of torque
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 09:43 PM
  #23  
alo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times in 185 Posts
Like others have said, it is difficult to solve without being there.

Is it slightly out of round? Is it narrower if rotated?
alo is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 09:48 PM
  #24  
justbike
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 28

Bikes: Felt Z85 Road Bike, Trek Mountain Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by alo
Like others have said, it is difficult to solve without being there.

Is it slightly out of round? Is it narrower if rotated?
Alo, thank you for trying to help

Tell me about it. Its difficult to solve even while being there. My lack of specialized tools is not helping either.

Could you specify what it is?

Thanks
justbike is offline  
Old 04-11-20, 09:55 PM
  #25  
alo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times in 185 Posts
Is the part not going in, just slightly out of round? If it is rotated, is it just slightly narrower?

If it was me, and I tried everything, and could not get anything to work, and it is only a very tiny amount, like you said, I would use a file to fix it. Try all other options first.
alo is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.