Duragrouch

Helicoils or other thread inserts, do not expand the hole by much, and especially with a very fine thread which has less (radial) thread depth than a more coarse thread; You're only expanding the hole enough to remove the old threads, then tapping a new thread the same thread depth, not much on a fine thread. I think there's enough meat on there to fit a helicoil, if they make in that size. But first, as mentioned above, try screwing in a conventional crank puller, there might be enough threads for it to work; You've got nothing to lose, as if you helicoil it, you're gonna drill out all the thread anyway. But because it is not a thru-hole, a pointed drill may not work, may not bore out the threads the full (axial) depth. Most bike shops don't have a milling machine to align with the hole and a boring head to bore it out to exact required for the helicoil tap. A straight reamer would work on a drill press if they make in the correct size, as it will still seek a center. An end mill will not, it needs to be aligned and plunged on a milling machine.

Peterparis

Hi,

So LBS took off the BB and pictured is what I have. they can re-assemble it without me trying to remove the spindle from the Spider.
Questions:

1. why cannot I just tap out the spindle with a hammer from the other side, if I support the spider correctly?
2. Would you guys do so?
3. Can i put different pedals on these crank arms?
4. rust treatment ideas? (see photos below)
5. Any other ideas/advice?
6. Duragrouch I see your point about the helicoil likely having enough meat there f.. but it's above my paygrade for now - and i think could be done later- thanks!!

Much thanks,
Peter





rust in here..scary or typical?

how to best de-rust this area?

should i replace this cup, or try to get it looking good again (the inside bearing wear seems not to compromise the cup)

genejockey 

1) Chuck wedges, again. It's the sort of thing they're designed for, and now that you've got the whole thing out, you can do them easily.

2) No, because I spent a surprisingly small amount for chuck wedges.

3) Yes. $38 plus shipping will get you a pair of adapters that thread into those big holes and let you used standard pedals. Just seach Ebay Cycling for "Dyna Drive Adapters". I use 'em on my Lotus Supreme, which has the same crankset.

4) Two kinds of rust on a bike - surface rust and rusted bare metal. If it's surface rust on the paint, you can get that off with something like Meguiar's Scratch-X, which you'll want to use on the paint anyway to get rid of oxidation and make it shine. The there kind, like where paint chipped off and rust attacked, I used a product called Kurust, which bills itself as a "Rust converter". Carefully apply to the rust spots, allow to work for 15 minutes or so. It will leave a blackish spot, which you can paint over.

Rust in the BB shell? I'd take a wirebrush to it. Then grease the hell out of it.

5) Best advice I can give is - only work on it when you're calm. Seriously.

Rusty cable guides, I'd treat with Kurust and then paint with matching Testors, if you can find it. Or nail polish.

Regarding the headset, if you're going all AX, maybe you can find one of the Shimano AX headsets, or the EX, which is probably the same, and see if you can find the plastic cover.

Duragrouch

Yeah that'll work. Would be tough for you to try to clean the bearings on the crank side, but if the bike shop has a solvent cleaner, they can just set it in there, aim the jet at it, walk away for an hour or two, and all the old grease will be dissolved and they can pack it with new grease.

The rust inside the bottom bracket shell is not scary. What's a little scary to me is how little thread depth on the back side due to how they joined the chainstays, looks like swaged outward radially from the shell so the chainstays fit around that swage and then weld. I could be wrong but I think most bikes have only a hole for the seat tube, I think to let drain any water that makes it past the seatpost, provided there is a small drain hole on the bottom of the BB shell, otherwise that water will go into the bearings. But the remaining threads, much deeper, provides adequate threads to hold the cups.