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Gravel 1x vs Gravel 2x as Road Bike?

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Gravel 1x vs Gravel 2x as Road Bike?

Old 09-13-20, 08:07 PM
  #26  
partyanimal
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Originally Posted by ERabbit
Beautiful bikes, I have always been a fan of nice lug work. Did you order direct to consumer?
You can't order through them, they make you order through your LBS.
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Old 09-13-20, 08:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by surak
I don't have any gravel bikes, per se, but I recently bought a 1x CX bike mainly for road with an option in mind to handle the tamer off-road stuff. I also have more conventional 2x bikes. My 1x is 11sp with 40t chainring up front and 11-36t cassette. For solo riding, including decent climbs, I haven't noticed any downside. I don't go nearly as fast downhill, obviously, which doesn't matter to me. Uphill, the 40-36 ratio has been a non-issue, maybe because I've done a huge amount of low cadence climbing this year. It helps that no FD means a lighter bike. With a bigger cassette, maybe the tooth jumps will bother you -- again, it's something that doesn't matter to me when riding solo.

You would think that a 2x bike is more suitable for road riding, especially in a paceline, but one of the ride leaders of a group I rode with in the before times used a 1x bike and during a ride I even remarked how smooth his lead was. He would drop back on steeper terrain, but groups usually separate then anyway.

That's a really good example, it seems like it could be fairly cost effective to just change the rear cassette or front chain ring
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Old 09-13-20, 08:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti
For road...either will work. IIRC the gear spacing of 1x12 versus 1x11 ends up being close and the range is close too.
Would it make sense to have 1x12 in the rear to have a higher final drive do you think?
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Old 09-13-20, 08:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Random11
When riding on pavement, I often find myself on the big chainring and smallest cog on the cassette (48T up front and 11T in back). You need a bigger chainring than 40T to ride it on pavement. You say you are physically fit. I'm in pretty good shape too, but I'm also 70 years old. If I'm riding in the highest gears with my 48T chainring, you would not be happy with a 40T chainring. When it comes time to replace the chainring, I'm even considering going to 50/34 because I'm in high gear so much of the time.
40-11 is 26mph @ 90 rpm. 48-11 is 32mph. Good on you to ride at your age (hope I can be as lucky), but anyone slower than a pro who actually pedals would be fine with a 40t chainring.
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Old 09-13-20, 08:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by surak
40-11 is 26mph @ 90 rpm. 48-11 is 32mph. Good on you to ride at your age (hope I can be as lucky), but anyone slower than a pro who actually pedals would be fine with a 40t chainring.
I'm riding on rolling terrain, no long hills, but lots of ups and downs, and do get well above 30mph in places. But I'm not riding 48-11 on flat terrain. On a recent very flat 31 mile ride I averaged a bit over 18mph, which is know is slow for lots of riders. If the OP is riding very flat terrain, the 40T chainring might work great, but on even moderate hills, it would be desirable to have something bigger than 40T. I'm saying that from my own experience. But you do raise a good point. The gearing that you want depends a lot on the terrain over which you're riding.
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Old 09-13-20, 08:49 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Random11
You definitely want to get the 2x chainrings. My only bike is a Specialized Diverge Comp, which I ride mainly on paved roads, though sometimes off-road. I like it as a road bike, and the option to go off-road is very nice. When riding on pavement, I often find myself on the big chainring and smallest cog on the cassette (48T up front and 11T in back). You need a bigger chainring than 40T to ride it on pavement. You say you are physically fit. I'm in pretty good shape too, but I'm also 70 years old. If I'm riding in the highest gears with my 48T chainring, you would not be happy with a 40T chainring. When it comes time to replace the chainring, I'm even considering going to 50/34 because I'm in high gear so much of the time.
Thats my worry is that I will out spin a 40t up front. Do you have the Comp Carbon with the 2x? Right now the only Diverge's I have been able to find is 1 E5 Comp which is 1x and then the Comp Carbon which is 2x but at $3,900 is a little out of my price range.

Rock n Road could convert the E5 Comp to 2x for about $600 - essentially new chain rings up front, new lever (the one on the E5 is a dummy lever so only brake), cables, front derailer, etc, so all in it would be about $2,800
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Old 09-13-20, 08:59 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ERabbit
Do you have the Comp Carbon with the 2x? ...so all in it would be about $2,800
Yes, that's what I have. It has an Ultegra drive train, but the Diverge Sport Carbon lists for $2900 on the Specialized website. It has a 105 drive train, which is probably just about as good. That is actually what I was intending to buy, but my LBS had the Ultegra bike in stock and put it on sale, and when the price went down I bought that.
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Old 09-13-20, 09:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by surak
40-11 is 26mph @ 90 rpm. 48-11 is 32mph. Good on you to ride at your age (hope I can be as lucky), but anyone slower than a pro who actually pedals would be fine with a 40t chainring.
So the 40t front and 11-42 rear would be spinning 26mph @ 90rpm? Do you use sheldon browns calculator to find out estimated top speed, I think I would be fine with 26mph and again could always change it out if need be.

There's currently nothing available online or in stores in my size 58cm that i've found in the Diverge with anything except 1x - I do still really like the looks of that particular bike.

Giant same story except just no bikes in general

Trek I have the option of ALR5 or SL5 in stock, both of which I rode today. The SL5 would essentially be about the same price as doing the diverge and adding 2x except the SL5 is a carbon frame, comes with tubeless ready wheels & tires, etc. It didn't really sing to me when I rode it but maybe that's because riding around a parking lot isn't that exciting
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Old 09-13-20, 09:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Random11
Yes, that's what I have. It has an Ultegra drive train, but the Diverge Sport Carbon lists for $2900 on the Specialized website. It has a 105 drive train, which is probably just about as good. That is actually what I was intending to buy, but my LBS had the Ultegra bike in stock and put it on sale, and when the price went down I bought that.
The diverge sport carbon seems like it would be the perfect fit. I guess I could practice patience and order one lol
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Old 09-13-20, 09:17 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ERabbit
I don't 100% know the answer to that just yet either, I have been really used to riding a custom single speed I built, which is why I'm wondering if I would be limiting myself to only 1x 11.
So what is your single speed setup and how fast do you go with it?

John
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Old 09-13-20, 09:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ERabbit
So the 40t front and 11-42 rear would be spinning 26mph @ 90rpm? Do you use sheldon browns calculator to find out estimated top speed, I think I would be fine with 26mph and again could always change it out if need be.
Bicycle Bike Gear Ratio Speed and Cadence Calculator with 32mm tires.
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Old 09-13-20, 09:41 PM
  #37  
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I like to spin a cadence of 95-100, except on hills where 82-87 feels best, so I prefer 2x since it allows me to do that at every speed from 6 mph to 36 mph. My newest bike has 52/36 and an 11-34 cassette, which I'm finding really nice for everything from climbing up walls to riding down them. I'm also 214 lbs, so my speed is more a function of gravity than it may be with a lot of other folks. So, if you're really planning on a lot of time on asphalt, I'd suggest a 2x with a big enough high gear that you don't spin out on most descents, and a small enough small gear to get to the top of them.

Currently I have 2 bikes with 53/39 and 12-30 10sp cassettes, which have the best gear spread. Also, a 50/34 with 12-27 10sp, which I spin out too early on, but otherwise I like. And the aforementioned 52/36, which has the widest gearing but one or two points where the steps between the gears are too big - like jumping from <85 to >100.
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Old 09-13-20, 11:20 PM
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you're in Newport Beach? there ain't any gravel roads here
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Old 09-13-20, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
you're in Newport Beach? there ain't any gravel roads here
Right, like I said in my first post, I am looking to use a gravel bike as my "road bike" I like the idea of a little bit more relaxed geometry, bigger tires, etc.
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Old 09-13-20, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by surak
Bicycle Bike Gear Ratio Speed and Cadence Calculator with 32mm tires.
​​​​​​
Thank you my friend
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Old 09-14-20, 06:38 AM
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Get a Double. Those big mountain bike cassettes have huge gaps between gears. I still like my 12-25 9 speed with 34/48 up front. I tried an 11-34 for a loaded tour and switched back as soon as the panniers were removed.
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Old 09-14-20, 07:17 AM
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I road bike my Revolt and love it! Def 2x for dual purpose use, I can spin the 48t to 35mph, and have plenty of lowend with the 32-34 for climbing.

As for the Defy, it can do some gravel, but the Revolt does it better (better geo, more tire clearance). That's why I sold my Defy and just ride the Revolt now.
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Old 09-14-20, 08:46 AM
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2x. There is just no benefit to 1x for pavement. And there is no benefit for 1x on gravel in most situations/areas. Its a trend pulled from MTB.
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Old 09-14-20, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by surak
40-11 is 26mph @ 90 rpm. 48-11 is 32mph. Good on you to ride at your age (hope I can be as lucky), but anyone slower than a pro who actually pedals would be fine with a 40t chainring.
I dont see many recreational/enthusiast cyclists spinning at 90rpm thru a ride. I get that they should all improve their spinning, but most are in the 60-80 range. I just mention this since I see 90rpm used as a common reference on this site.
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Old 09-14-20, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ERabbit
Right, like I said in my first post, I am looking to use a gravel bike as my "road bike" I like the idea of a little bit more relaxed geometry, bigger tires, etc.
In the Socal beach areas, most people either get a road bike (could be an endurance one), or a beach cruiser. I see very few 1x bikes on the road. I can honestly say I've seen 1 person riding a high-end 1x crossbike on the streets of Socal.
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Old 09-14-20, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
I dont see many recreational/enthusiast cyclists spinning at 90rpm thru a ride. I get that they should all improve their spinning, but most are in the 60-80 range. I just mention this since I see 90rpm used as a common reference on this site.
​​​​​​90 rpm is a reasonable max cadence. It's common on this site for people to claim they need World Tour gearing when in actuality they are nowhere close to spinning out. To put it in your terms, I don't see many recreational/enthusiast riders going 26mph, let alone 32mph thru a ride, so a 40t and definitely a 48t are not limiting factors.

The talk about needing 50-11 is even more misguided. Going downhill, you'll be hard pressed to contribute a significant amount of power no matter the gearing, and that power will have negligible impact on speed due to the overwhelming amount you need to overcome drag. Maximizing downhill speed is simply not something to be concerned about. I wonder how many people who think they need it have power meters and actually looked at their downhill numbers.
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Old 09-14-20, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
In the Socal beach areas, most people either get a road bike (could be an endurance one), or a beach cruiser. I see very few 1x bikes on the road. I can honestly say I've seen 1 person riding a high-end 1x crossbike on the streets of Socal.

Yeah, i've lived here my entire life and grew up riding a beach cruiser everywhere, literally everywhere, miles and miles and miles on beach cruisers. I've decided to go with a 2x setup, it just seems to be a lot more practical overall
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Old 09-14-20, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
2x. There is just no benefit to 1x for pavement. And there is no benefit for 1x on gravel in most situations/areas. Its a trend pulled from MTB.
Yeah as much as I like it aesthetically, I am going to go with a 2x setup. I will save the 1x for my single speed, dj mtb, and beach cruiser
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Old 09-14-20, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rides4Beer
I road bike my Revolt and love it! Def 2x for dual purpose use, I can spin the 48t to 35mph, and have plenty of lowend with the 32-34 for climbing.

As for the Defy, it can do some gravel, but the Revolt does it better (better geo, more tire clearance). That's why I sold my Defy and just ride the Revolt now.
I definitely like the idea of the gravel bike as the go to all around road bike. Thanks for the insight!
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Old 09-14-20, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
I see very few 1x bikes on the road. I can honestly say I've seen 1 person riding a high-end 1x crossbike on the streets of Socal.
Was it me? I hope it was me. I mean, my 1X Ritchey has 21,000 miles on it. It's done Onyx Summit, the IE to San Diego, it's been to the Grand Canyon, it's been everywhere. I've never felt particularly limited by the gearing. I have on many occasions felt severely limited by the engine.

And I'd be the first person to say that 1X probably isn't for everyone. But the combo of hacking at it or eschewing it based on perceived limitations... as a solo rider, I don't get it. Most people don't use all the gears they have. I use 'em all on nearly every ride.
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