Bike comfort help for newbie
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bike comfort help for newbie
Hello, I have bought my first road bicycle. When I am cycling for 20-30 minutes my palm get numb and fingers are tingling. I feel like the frame size is bigger than my fit and during cycling weight is shifted forward towards my handlebars and my palm is getting stiff.
Any solution for me?
My height is : 5 foot 3 inch
Inseam is : 24 inch
frame height : 17.5 inch (using measuring tape)
Any solution for me?
My height is : 5 foot 3 inch
Inseam is : 24 inch
frame height : 17.5 inch (using measuring tape)
#2
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,527
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3885 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
See if you can manage to get 10 posts on various sub-forums and threads so that you can post photos of yourself on the bike, from the side, one with pedals level, hands on hoods, forearms horizontal, one with pedals vertical, normal riding position.
My initial take is that most probably your saddle is way too far forward and your stem too short. Your reaction to a road bike is totally normal. Most folks don't get how a road bike fit is supposed to work. The first thing you should probably work on is flexibility. Can you put your knuckles on the ground with knees locked? Or at least touch your toes? Gentle stretching is the way to go if you can't.
My initial take is that most probably your saddle is way too far forward and your stem too short. Your reaction to a road bike is totally normal. Most folks don't get how a road bike fit is supposed to work. The first thing you should probably work on is flexibility. Can you put your knuckles on the ground with knees locked? Or at least touch your toes? Gentle stretching is the way to go if you can't.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
You might be able to flip your stem upside down to raise your handlebars a little for some relief.
#4
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,953
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6178 Post(s)
Liked 4,795 Times
in
3,307 Posts
Are you staying on the hoods the entire time? Change it up between hoods, drops and tops all during your ride.
Though reach and bar height need to be checked too. I found the moving the bars lower actually eased up the weight on my hands. YMMV though.
I'm not as happy with the bar width of my last two bike being 42 cm which is about my shoulder width measured between the acromion. Though that's what most like, I'm thinking of going back to the narrower bars of my Raleigh which were around 38 cm.
Part of the reason for the bar change is for my hands getting a little numb on longer rides despite changing hand positions.
Though reach and bar height need to be checked too. I found the moving the bars lower actually eased up the weight on my hands. YMMV though.
I'm not as happy with the bar width of my last two bike being 42 cm which is about my shoulder width measured between the acromion. Though that's what most like, I'm thinking of going back to the narrower bars of my Raleigh which were around 38 cm.
Part of the reason for the bar change is for my hands getting a little numb on longer rides despite changing hand positions.
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
See if you can manage to get 10 posts on various sub-forums and threads so that you can post photos of yourself on the bike, from the side, one with pedals level, hands on hoods, forearms horizontal, one with pedals vertical, normal riding position.
My initial take is that most probably your saddle is way too far forward and your stem too short. Your reaction to a road bike is totally normal. Most folks don't get how a road bike fit is supposed to work. The first thing you should probably work on is flexibility. Can you put your knuckles on the ground with knees locked? Or at least touch your toes? Gentle stretching is the way to go if you can't.
My initial take is that most probably your saddle is way too far forward and your stem too short. Your reaction to a road bike is totally normal. Most folks don't get how a road bike fit is supposed to work. The first thing you should probably work on is flexibility. Can you put your knuckles on the ground with knees locked? Or at least touch your toes? Gentle stretching is the way to go if you can't.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Are you staying on the hoods the entire time? Change it up between hoods, drops and tops all during your ride.
Though reach and bar height need to be checked too. I found the moving the bars lower actually eased up the weight on my hands. YMMV though.
I'm not as happy with the bar width of my last two bike being 42 cm which is about my shoulder width measured between the acromion. Though that's what most like, I'm thinking of going back to the narrower bars of my Raleigh which were around 38 cm.
Part of the reason for the bar change is for my hands getting a little numb on longer rides despite changing hand positions.
Though reach and bar height need to be checked too. I found the moving the bars lower actually eased up the weight on my hands. YMMV though.
I'm not as happy with the bar width of my last two bike being 42 cm which is about my shoulder width measured between the acromion. Though that's what most like, I'm thinking of going back to the narrower bars of my Raleigh which were around 38 cm.
Part of the reason for the bar change is for my hands getting a little numb on longer rides despite changing hand positions.
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,953
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6178 Post(s)
Liked 4,795 Times
in
3,307 Posts
If you feel like you need to change your reach, then changing the stem is the better way to do that usually. Pista type stems generally make the change easy, but if you have the old "7' type stem then that will be a pain as you have to unwrap bars and remove levers.
If you've no experience fitting yourself on a bike, then I'd recommend seeing someone in person. Maybe someone from a local bike shop or a bike co-op, bike club or even another avid cyclist that's been riding a long while.
There are really too many other things that can affect any one particular aspect of fit. So without being able to see everything about your bike and you at the same time, it likely will be wrong to tell you yes or no on the stem change from where I sit.
#8
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,527
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3885 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
Follow the instructions. You should not be close to touching the ground with either foot while sitting on the saddle. Correct saddle height is the first thing on my list. When one comes to a stop of on a road bike, one slows to a stop or almost to a stop, then comes off the saddle and puts one foot down as one stops. To get going again, most folks raise the pedal opposite from the down foot, push down on that pedal and away they go. Or, you can dab with the down foot until you get rolling, then start pedaling, but the first method is safer. Practice in a parking lot.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter