tjfastback66

Hello All,
New to the forum here with a question about removing the rear cassette off of my newly acquired 1983 Raleigh Competition.
I have the correct Suntour tool and a bench vice to place it into, but cannot get the thing to move.

Any hot tips on helping a guy out here?

Thank you!
TJ

Bill Kapaun

If you mean the 2 or 4 prong tool, make sure it's retained with a QR skewer or axle nut.
You need more force to remove. Simple. Bigger wrench or piece of pipe added for leverage.
You have a FREE WHEEL, not a cassette.
It simply screws on and then gets super tightened by simply pedaling.
Add years of not being removed, it may likely have corrosion wanting to bond the parts together.
You might try applying some Penetrating Oil. (WD-40 is ineffective. Get the "real" stuff) and letting soak for a few hours and hope some wicks in.
These OFTEN break the tool when removing.

tjfastback66

Hi Bill,

Thank you so much for the quick reply I will try the soaking method.
Much appreciated!

​​​​​​​TJ

dedhed

Bill Kapaun

For further education while it's soaking-
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

These prevent a bit of a dilemma for first timers.
You NEED something to retain the tool well.
However, when the FW starts to unthread it tightens against the retainer. Unbelievably tight if not careful.
Once the FW starts to unthread, stop. Readjust your "retainer". You'll have to back it off a little bit.
The thread pitch is so fine on a FW, it acts like a strong screw jack. Add the force of a long wrench....
You may need to repeat a time of 2 before things start to loosen up.
I use a 1" box wrench for the tool. It's less likely to slip then an adjustable or open end wrench. You really don't want to use a "cheater"pipe on an adjustable wrench. They are designed for convenience, not strength.
I had to take a small triangular file and "open up" the box a bit. It seems the flat "junctions" on the PARK removal tool are a bit too "peaky" to slide in the tool.
It was a matter of opening up the wrench or grind down 6 "points" on each of the 5 or 6 removal tools I have. They're too hard to file without a disproportionate amount of work and I didn't have a grinder at the time.

bikeaddiction1

I just had to do this today, with a Suntour 7 speed freewheel. The above advice is good, in that you need to loosely install an axle or QR (with springs removed) to stop the tool from stripping out the freewheel notches. I put the tool in my vice, which is a good sized vice bolted to my heavy work bench top, which is attached to the wall. It took a hard turn with my hands at 3 and 9 o'clock positions on the wheel. Suddenly it broke loose and I stopped turning immediately and backed the QR off as mentioned above. I was then able to turn it off fairly easily.
Spraying some WD40 in is not a bad suggestion.

dsbrantjr

The real stuff is Kano Kroil, with PB Blaster second best. Apply penetrant, give a few sharp raps with a hammer, let sit overnight or longer, repeat if necessary.

tjfastback66

Hey thank you to all your responses - this is awesome!
I do not have any Kano Kroil, nor have I ever heard of the "real stuff" but I will check it out to source locally. Is this bike shop related or automotive?

Thanks again!
TJ

Bill Kapaun

And just where is he supposed to hit it?
The idea is to "ring it" like a bell. Not mash the hell out of it.
A box end wrench reaching through the spokes and tapping the hub in the area of interest is more sensible.

The "real stuff" is Penetrating Oil. Pick your favorite. Available in home Improvement, hardware & auto parts stores. Some are considered better than others. I might not use the best, but multiple applications & time are not a problem for me. It hasn't failed as of yet.
I use Liquid Wrench because it comes in a screw top can that I can draw some off with a hypodermic and apply where needed only.
The stuff sprayed on the floor & paint doesn't do much except make a mess.

SurferRosa

I place an adjustable wrench on the tool and whack the wrench end with a sledgehammer a couple times.

Geepig

I have 24 inch wheels, so less torque available...

dedhed

still more than a 10" wrench and grabbing the wheel you are applying it more equally than a single wrench

ClydeClydeson

My experience with old freewheels is that they are seldom seized, but it is very likely that they are tight enough that you can easily damage the prongs on the freewheel or remover if not very careful.

1. Install the remover on the freewheel and hold in place with the QR skewer. Ensure the prongs on the freewheel and remover are perfectly aligned and engaged.
2. Clamp the freewheel remover in the bench vise so the wheel is above it and parallel to the ground
3. Put your hands on the wheel at 9 and 3 oclock
4. (a)Pretend you are a bus driver turning left.
(b)It may be extremely tight, so you might have to pretend to be a bus driver whose bus has no power steering.
5. As soon as the freewheel breaks free, loosen the QR skewer
6. Buy a replacement freewheel with full internal splines like a Shimano

JoeTBM 

PB Blaster, available in Home Depot and other stores in all size containers. We buy it by the gallon and pour into old spray bottles.

Moisture

You gotta smack the end of the freewheel remover wrench using a rubber mallet or hammer etc. to break it loose

Bill Kapaun

You can probably do that with a splined type tool, but I wouldn't recommend it with prong type removal tools. Whacking it tends to want to move things sideways a bit. You need to keep the tool/force concentric.
Bench vise is best. Else a longer wrench and one hand trying to support the tool.
I run the tire/wheel into my garage door jamb on one side, I get on the other, then try to turn it into the jamb. You get more traction to keep the wheel from spinning.

Geepig

Very true, but I still ask my wife to leave the garage first

tjfastback66

Hello All,

Well problem is now solved as I was able to get some PB Blaster and soaked it for a good 6 hours. Attached the QR skewer along with the Suntour tool and loaded up the bench vice. No need to even give it a few sharp raps, It came off without too much effort.
I appreciate all that have contributed to this message.

Thanks!
TJ

dedhed

Grease the threads on the replacement FW before installation.

tjfastback66

Hey great advice, thank you so much!
TJ