Here's a solution to a paint dilemma - cost, durability, clear coated decals
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Here's a solution to a paint dilemma - cost, durability, clear coated decals
Powder coat is relatively inexpensive and durable. Decals, however, go on the outside, you can see the edge, and there's no way to clear coat them properly. I keep reading about people who know it can be done, but "pics or it didn't happen".
Imron "wet paint" is very durable, not quite in the league of powder coat, but you can have it all - durability, clear coat over decals, two or more colors, but you'll also pay for it.
Rattle can paint jobs give you full control, but they're typically at the bottom of the durability list, from what I read.
How about a hybrid paint job? Mask off the head tube and any panels you want and powder coat the rest. Choose the high wear areas for powder coat. Top tubes get scraped up, all the stays - got chrome lugs? Mask them as well. When you get the frame back from the powder coaters, reverse the masking, do etching primer, primer, and top coat. Put on the water slide decals, then clear coat.
Imron "wet paint" is very durable, not quite in the league of powder coat, but you can have it all - durability, clear coat over decals, two or more colors, but you'll also pay for it.
Rattle can paint jobs give you full control, but they're typically at the bottom of the durability list, from what I read.
How about a hybrid paint job? Mask off the head tube and any panels you want and powder coat the rest. Choose the high wear areas for powder coat. Top tubes get scraped up, all the stays - got chrome lugs? Mask them as well. When you get the frame back from the powder coaters, reverse the masking, do etching primer, primer, and top coat. Put on the water slide decals, then clear coat.
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That is...brilliant!
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Are you asking if this can be done in such a way or are you saying the bike pictured was done as described?
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Powdercoat is very durable but, I love the way paint with clear coat ages. It softens with time. There's something about the look of those well cared for old bikes. Not sure if powder coating would be the same.
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Basic paint $275
Decals $100
Panels, ea $65 (this would be for masking and painting a separate area in a different color, the creamy white in the bike posted above, for example)
Chrome mask varies, but quoted at $5 ea
I had 2 panels masked. Total cost with Imron, decals, 2 panels and chrome would be well over $500
Compare to the following:
powder coat $110 local powder coater (I do the masking for them, not difficult)
rattle can
paint ~80, can be used for several frames. I chose creamy white, which goes with just about any color
Decals ~$45 from VeloCals
Half the cost of full wet paint, much more durable than Imron. Decals safely ensconsed behind clear coat.
It's an option, one that worked well for me on this bike.
Disclaimer: any decals not in the panels would have to be adhesive in this scenario
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Anything works if prepped right.
Prepped right = time, effort, attention to detail, expense.
Paint/coat is anti-climactic.
Either can be decal'ed and cleared over.
Again, prep prep prep.
Prepped right = time, effort, attention to detail, expense.
Paint/coat is anti-climactic.
Either can be decal'ed and cleared over.
Again, prep prep prep.
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I'd say that's both innovative and good looking. It makes a reasonable cost refresh pop (based on your photos). My only issue with powder coat is usually the thickness that is used (almost always too much). But I've seen nice PC as well, so I think I may need to get yet another new PC'er.
For the areas where your paint is masking against the PC, did you leave a little overlap, or how was that treated? It does look sweet from photo distance.
For the areas where your paint is masking against the PC, did you leave a little overlap, or how was that treated? It does look sweet from photo distance.
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Sloan, how are you painting these?
Last edited by ppg677; 11-01-15 at 07:49 AM.
#9
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I'm soon getting my Trek 95x frame repainted with Dupont Imron. I inquired about clear-coating decals, but was told that Trek's original bikes from the late 70s and early 80s used thick decals that were not clear-coated over. So I guess I don't have this problem!
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I'd like to strip a frame to bare metal and get clear powdercoat. Then apply all the decals.
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"Pics or it didn't happen!"
I'd say that's both innovative and good looking. It makes a reasonable cost refresh pop (based on your photos). My only issue with powder coat is usually the thickness that is used (almost always too much). But I've seen nice PC as well, so I think I may need to get yet another new PC'er.
For the areas where your paint is masking against the PC, did you leave a little overlap, or how was that treated? It does look sweet from photo distance.
For the areas where your paint is masking against the PC, did you leave a little overlap, or how was that treated? It does look sweet from photo distance.
Sure you can. But on top of decals?
I'm not against adhesive decals over PC. It's just that water slide decals with a clear coat just look a bit nicer.
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You can clear over powder coat, same as you can over paint. Wet-sanding is recommended, then apply decals and clear. The thinner the decal, the better.
Clear powder-coat is a different story. Due to temperatures, I'd not recommend decals in there, especially foil.
Clear powder-coat is a different story. Due to temperatures, I'd not recommend decals in there, especially foil.
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@gugie, did you strip and prep the whole frame, then mask what you wanted masked, before bringing it to the powder coater? And did the powder coater then do whatever additional prep needed before spraying the powder?
The powder coaters I've talked to were uncomfortable with any tricky masking. No problem with threads and open tubes etc, but they didn't want to mess with lugs, contrasting panels, etc.
I was tempted to mask, sand and paint white panels over the fresh powder coat, but in the end elected not to. If you can clear coat over powder coat, you should be able to paint over it as well, no?
The powder coaters I've talked to were uncomfortable with any tricky masking. No problem with threads and open tubes etc, but they didn't want to mess with lugs, contrasting panels, etc.
I was tempted to mask, sand and paint white panels over the fresh powder coat, but in the end elected not to. If you can clear coat over powder coat, you should be able to paint over it as well, no?
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois
You can't clear coat over powder coat?
It seems you answered your own question.
Decals go on top of power or wet. Clear goes on top of decals and base. Doesn't matter if the base is powder or clear.
If you want to get fancy, clear only over the decal and not the base.
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Most powder coat masking issues are with the blasting portion, as it takes duct tape to be thick enough to withstand it.
My powder coater won't mask at all. I take care of it and he knocks it off the price.
OP's idea has merit, as my powder coater has told me that's the only way he'd do a two-tone: do the coating first, take it to the body shop next door for the paint and after-decal clear coat. By the time I added it up, it was not a bad idea, but generally, with an Ironman, you are only after one color, whatever is on the stays. In most cases, the ST/HT are fine, or good enough.
My powder coater won't mask at all. I take care of it and he knocks it off the price.
OP's idea has merit, as my powder coater has told me that's the only way he'd do a two-tone: do the coating first, take it to the body shop next door for the paint and after-decal clear coat. By the time I added it up, it was not a bad idea, but generally, with an Ironman, you are only after one color, whatever is on the stays. In most cases, the ST/HT are fine, or good enough.
@gugie, did you strip and prep the whole frame, then mask what you wanted masked, before bringing it to the powder coater? And did the powder coater then do whatever additional prep needed before spraying the powder?
The powder coaters I've talked to were uncomfortable with any tricky masking. No problem with threads and open tubes etc, but they didn't want to mess with lugs, contrasting panels, etc.
I was tempted to mask, sand and paint white panels over the fresh powder coat, but in the end elected not to. If you can clear coat over powder coat, you should be able to paint over it as well, no?
The powder coaters I've talked to were uncomfortable with any tricky masking. No problem with threads and open tubes etc, but they didn't want to mess with lugs, contrasting panels, etc.
I was tempted to mask, sand and paint white panels over the fresh powder coat, but in the end elected not to. If you can clear coat over powder coat, you should be able to paint over it as well, no?
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I can put decals on powder coat, then wet paint over the decals (proper type of decals selected, of course). Everywhere I've read is that a wet coat over powder isn't very durable. One would think that you could scuff up the powder coat, put on the water slide decals, then rattle can clear coat over them. But I haven't run into any posts or pictures showing this done. It seems reasonable.
"Pics or it didn't happen". I'd like to ask the person that's done this how it turned out.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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Last edited by gugie; 11-01-15 at 04:53 PM.
#19
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Most powder coat masking issues are with the blasting portion, as it takes duct tape to be thick enough to withstand it.
My powder coater won't mask at all. I take care of it and he knocks it off the price.
OP's idea has merit, as my powder coater has told me that's the only way he'd do a two-tone: do the coating first, take it to the body shop next door for the paint and after-decal clear coat. By the time I added it up, it was not a bad idea, but generally, with an Ironman, you are only after one color, whatever is on the stays. In most cases, the ST/HT are fine, or good enough.
My powder coater won't mask at all. I take care of it and he knocks it off the price.
OP's idea has merit, as my powder coater has told me that's the only way he'd do a two-tone: do the coating first, take it to the body shop next door for the paint and after-decal clear coat. By the time I added it up, it was not a bad idea, but generally, with an Ironman, you are only after one color, whatever is on the stays. In most cases, the ST/HT are fine, or good enough.
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You can't do a powder clear coat over decals, agreed? To be precise, not without wrecking the decals.
I can put decals on powder coat, then wet paint over the decals (proper type of decals selected, of course). Everywhere I've read is that a wet coat over powder isn't very durable. One would think that you could scuff up the powder coat, put on the water slide decals, then rattle can clear coat over them. But I haven't run into any posts or pictures showing this done. It seems reasonable.
"Pics or it didn't happen". I'd like to ask the person that's done this how it turned out.
I can put decals on powder coat, then wet paint over the decals (proper type of decals selected, of course). Everywhere I've read is that a wet coat over powder isn't very durable. One would think that you could scuff up the powder coat, put on the water slide decals, then rattle can clear coat over them. But I haven't run into any posts or pictures showing this done. It seems reasonable.
"Pics or it didn't happen". I'd like to ask the person that's done this how it turned out.
But you will likely not find pics. Powder is used for good enough, its depth of color sucks. Powder is cheap. With good paint, with flake, pearl, translucence or depth, you use wet. If you are doing an expensive paint job, do it right with the above prescribed sanding. In a previous life I did the prep like that for several cars.
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Fwiw I've seen this bike in person and it is gorgeous. I inspected the paint up close and it's really pretty.
#22
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600/800/1200/1500/2000 the powder then clear (wet clear, not a powder clear). As you would do with any quality paint job.
But you will likely not find pics. Powder is used for good enough, its depth of color sucks. Powder is cheap. With good paint, with flake, pearl, translucence or depth, you use wet. If you are doing an expensive paint job, do it right with the above prescribed sanding. In a previous life I did the prep like that for several cars.
But you will likely not find pics. Powder is used for good enough, its depth of color sucks. Powder is cheap. With good paint, with flake, pearl, translucence or depth, you use wet. If you are doing an expensive paint job, do it right with the above prescribed sanding. In a previous life I did the prep like that for several cars.
One of these days, on a less important (to me) frame, I'll try that protocol.
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You could just do a test. Your powder guy probably has sample pieces to give you. Sand one, leave the other unsanded. Wet clear both. Hit with hammer. See which is more durable.
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600/800/1200/1500/2000 the powder then clear (wet clear, not a powder clear). As you would do with any quality paint job.
But you will likely not find pics. Powder is used for good enough, its depth of color sucks. Powder is cheap. With good paint, with flake, pearl, translucence or depth, you use wet. If you are doing an expensive paint job, do it right with the above prescribed sanding. In a previous life I did the prep like that for several cars.
But you will likely not find pics. Powder is used for good enough, its depth of color sucks. Powder is cheap. With good paint, with flake, pearl, translucence or depth, you use wet. If you are doing an expensive paint job, do it right with the above prescribed sanding. In a previous life I did the prep like that for several cars.
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Who ever said wet was smooth?