What's the longest you have gotten out of a rear tire?
11-05-19, 08:23 PM
#26
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As per this relevant thread, if the tire is a good one I like to squeeze every last drop of use out of it.
(I'm writing this post on a pentium 4 desktop computer).
(I'm writing this post on a pentium 4 desktop computer).
11-05-19, 09:00 PM
#27
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Incorrect, as has been shown empirically over tens of thousands of miles. I've saved several 700c tires from an early demise by gluing cuts shut. It's not hard. For frame of reference: R/C tires are glued to the rims with superglue, and those wheels can spin at several thousand RPM. I've made "hybrid" R/C tires by cutting two tires in half and gluing a left half and a right half together. Maybe you haven't used a decent cyanoacrylate in a long time, but with the proper adhesive (like MXBon 105) you could cut a bike tire in half and glue the ends back together.
11-06-19, 06:02 AM
#28
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Well, I'm not using superglue to fill holes so much as I am to glue cuts back together, so they don't get any bigger. I've glued them this way both internally and externally. The particular type of superglue doesn't seem to matter. I've been using the Gorilla Super Glue for a couple of years now. Primarily because it's readily available locally.
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11-06-19, 08:00 AM
#29
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Rubber-infused super glues:
Gorilla Super Glue
Bob Smith Industries BSI IC-2000
Loctite 480
Loctite PowerFlex
Starbond KE-150
Starbond KBL-500
And while it has no flex agent, the aforementioned MXBON 105 will glue anything to anything else. It's just not readily available, so I go with the cheap Gorilla Super Glue, which does the job well enough.
If I thought far enough in advance it would be the BSI IC-2000. Stuff is excellent, and relatively inexpensive.
Gorilla Super Glue
Bob Smith Industries BSI IC-2000
Loctite 480
Loctite PowerFlex
Starbond KE-150
Starbond KBL-500
And while it has no flex agent, the aforementioned MXBON 105 will glue anything to anything else. It's just not readily available, so I go with the cheap Gorilla Super Glue, which does the job well enough.
If I thought far enough in advance it would be the BSI IC-2000. Stuff is excellent, and relatively inexpensive.
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11-06-19, 04:50 PM
#30
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I've tried super glue in the past and it just popped out of the cut. Glad to hear about the flexy stuff, I'll try it.
11-06-19, 08:07 PM
#31
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My rear tire started out life as a front tire. I always put a new, best tire on the front and moving the front tire to the rear. I don't rotate, just always put the best tire on the front. I estimate I get around 3000 miles out of the rear tire.
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11-07-19, 06:25 PM
#32
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Wow, some of you really get your $ out those tires
I change as soon as they have a prominent flat spot
Like that new bike feel, all the time, especially on high speed descents
1500-2000 miles usually on a rear, change front annually regardless of condition
I change as soon as they have a prominent flat spot
Like that new bike feel, all the time, especially on high speed descents
1500-2000 miles usually on a rear, change front annually regardless of condition
Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 11-07-19 at 06:35 PM.
11-07-19, 07:20 PM
#33
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I usually replace tires at ~3500 miles. If they still look good, they go in the backup bin at that point. My current rear tire (a GP 4000S2) came from the backup bin and might be approaching 4,000 at this point. I also weigh 125-130, and even though roads are often pretty garbage, I'm not doing anything too crazy.
I do try to rotate tires - new on front, old on rear. The roads have been having other plans for me lately.
I do try to rotate tires - new on front, old on rear. The roads have been having other plans for me lately.
11-07-19, 08:13 PM
#35
Non omnino gravis
I'll just assume then that you understand the difference between set time and cure time. Gorilla Super Glue for instance isn't full strength for 24 hours. Many glues aren't fully cured for 72 hours. I don't understand why it's so impossible for you to believe that a cut can be glued shut on a tire with a whopping 90psi or less in it. I'm not gluing cords back together, I'm stopping cuts from getting any bigger. Cyanoacrylate adhesives work best on materials that are porous, but not too porous... you know, like rubber.
Then again, it would appear that those two pieces of rubber were attempted to be bonded by someone who doesn't understand how glue works. A chemical bond relies on being as absolutely thin as possible between the two surfaces to be bonded. That applies to any adhesive, between any substrates. I'm not fillet building, I'm gluing cuts. I use a single drop of glue, and most of it gets pushed out of the cut.
Then again, it would appear that those two pieces of rubber were attempted to be bonded by someone who doesn't understand how glue works. A chemical bond relies on being as absolutely thin as possible between the two surfaces to be bonded. That applies to any adhesive, between any substrates. I'm not fillet building, I'm gluing cuts. I use a single drop of glue, and most of it gets pushed out of the cut.
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11-08-19, 11:27 AM
#37
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Hard to see where the cut was by the time that Mavic tire was replaced, ymmv
11-08-19, 12:00 PM
#38
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Michelin Pro4 Race: 800 miles before I stopped trusting it
Michelin Pro4 Endurance (now called Krylion 2): 1500-1700 miles
Conti GP5K: 900 miles, and it's getting a little thin. Could probably get another 300 out of it.
Not terribly related, but:
Schwalbe G-One Gravel tire: 450 miles before it was useless on steeper climbs.
Michelin Pro4 Endurance (now called Krylion 2): 1500-1700 miles
Conti GP5K: 900 miles, and it's getting a little thin. Could probably get another 300 out of it.
Not terribly related, but:
Schwalbe G-One Gravel tire: 450 miles before it was useless on steeper climbs.
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11-08-19, 10:02 PM
#39
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Continental Hardshell replaced with cords showing through with 6,049 miles on it. Zero flats.
Switched to tubeless last year and got 5,753 miles out of Hutchinson Sector 32. Replaced when cords showed through. Zero flats. One loss of air sealed before going flat.
I weigh 190-205 lbs and my rides average about 60' feet per mile. Lots of climbing and braking I assume would wear out a tire faster
Switched to tubeless last year and got 5,753 miles out of Hutchinson Sector 32. Replaced when cords showed through. Zero flats. One loss of air sealed before going flat.
I weigh 190-205 lbs and my rides average about 60' feet per mile. Lots of climbing and braking I assume would wear out a tire faster
11-09-19, 12:59 PM
#40
Non omnino gravis
Your assumptions ≠ my empirical evidence. I've been gluing cuts for 40,000+ miles. If the repairs were indeed 100% cosmetic, and yet have resulted in zero premature failures, I would reckon myself the luckiest person alive.
Your posts are the written equivalent of seeing a person <insert activity here> and yelling at them, "Hey, you can't do that, it's impossible!"
Your posts are the written equivalent of seeing a person <insert activity here> and yelling at them, "Hey, you can't do that, it's impossible!"
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11-12-19, 05:10 PM
#41
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Tread doesn't matter - it's just there because people think tires need it.
A flat stripe down the matter doesn't matter - the tire is compliant enough it has no effect.
With most of the flat protection coming from an aramid fiber layer, rubber thickness usually doesn't make a noticeable difference.
Tires are not worn out until the cords show.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-12-19 at 05:19 PM.
