Newbie with question on paint restoration
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Newbie with question on paint restoration
First off, hello. I've been a long-time lurker here on the forums and really enjoy learning from everyone here about C&V bicycles. I picked up this Raleigh Competition frame-set yesterday and I have some questions regarding the finish. Hopefully it comes through in the photos but it seems a previous owner covered some of the original finish and decals with another layer of paint (or maybe something else). You can even see the "Competition" decal on the top tube underneath this coating. The gentleman I bought it from was able to expose one of the decals and the nice paint underneath. I have little to no experience with paint restoration, how should I go about removing this coating while preserving the original paint?
Thanks in advance.
-David
Thanks in advance.
-David
Last edited by dsteppenwolf; 06-20-11 at 07:56 AM. Reason: mispelled word
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I'm not sure what that top layer might be. Some kind of clear coat that went bad? At any rate, I've stripped very yellowed clear coat from an all-chrome frame using lots of applications of CitriStrip or similar products. Of course, in that case, I wasn't concerned about removing a lower layer of paint. I've also removed odd top yellowed layers with very gentle rubbing of turpentine, but it did take off a light layer of the actual paint. Sorry not to be more helpful.
Neal
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Looking at that tubing decal, I'm guessing it's a half-*** rattlecan job. My advice would be to get some acetone, and apply it to an inconspicuous area of the original finish.
If it's not lacquer, the original finish will probably be more-or-less resistant to brief swabbings with acetone. (Most paints will eventually be damaged or removed by long-term exposure to acetone, but rattle-can paint usually just brushes off immediately when it is applied.)
If the original finish is acetone resistant, you can probably get most or all of the rattlecan paint off with paper towels, acetone, and very gentle swabbing.
If it's not lacquer, the original finish will probably be more-or-less resistant to brief swabbings with acetone. (Most paints will eventually be damaged or removed by long-term exposure to acetone, but rattle-can paint usually just brushes off immediately when it is applied.)
If the original finish is acetone resistant, you can probably get most or all of the rattlecan paint off with paper towels, acetone, and very gentle swabbing.
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How did the man you purchased the bike from remove the coating? To me it looks brittle with poor adhesion, there is a possibility it's a shellac that some old timer put on the frame to preserve it. Shellac will always dissolve when exposed to alcohol, you could try rubbing a small spot with some alcohol and see if it softens the shellac. I'd be very careful around the decals, but the alcohol shouldn't hurt the original finish. Test in an inconspicuous spot first.
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Auto body shops stock a micro-fine glaze for removing vandalism paint and overspray from cars. I'd simply take the bike there with about $10, or a case of good beer (cold). Chances are you'll go home with a solution.
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Looks like shellac to me. Alcohol is the best bet for that. If it has an effect then that's probably what it is -unless it is Cosmoline which is a possibility. Cosmo will come off with alcohol but not as well as it will with plain old steam. One of those hand steam cleaners gets Cosmo off like magic but doesn't work so well with shellac.
If those don't work then it's probably some weird paint-based clear coat. Let it dry overnight from the alcohol and/or steam and then try the Acetone trick.
I'm thinking it is not clear-coat though because of the way it is layered up and that thick. It's pobably either shellac or Cosmoline. I'd pick shellac if I had to bet as Cosmo is usually lumpier than that unless the person who put it on was a wizard. Shellac is easier to get a nice good smooth finish if it is brushed on with a skillful hand.
If those don't work then it's probably some weird paint-based clear coat. Let it dry overnight from the alcohol and/or steam and then try the Acetone trick.
I'm thinking it is not clear-coat though because of the way it is layered up and that thick. It's pobably either shellac or Cosmoline. I'd pick shellac if I had to bet as Cosmo is usually lumpier than that unless the person who put it on was a wizard. Shellac is easier to get a nice good smooth finish if it is brushed on with a skillful hand.