Why did roller cam brakes not catch on?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Why did roller cam brakes not catch on?
For the past month or so I have been using a bike with roller cam brakes. I have set up many sets of these as I worked in a bike shop for 40 years, but never actually owned and operated them on a consistent basis. I find they are very easy to set up and work exceptionally well, better than canti's or linear pull. I am using them with drop bars and Exage brake levers. Modulation is very, very good, and stopping power is very, very good. Why did they never catch on? Because some idiots mounted them under the chain stays? Weight? What?
#2
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,978
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 1,044 Times
in
667 Posts
Good question. Sheldon Brown wrote that they are more difficult to set up than cantilever brakes and make for more difficult wheel changes. I have no experience, and it sounds like you didn’t find them harder to set up.
I have a late 80s MTB, so of course it has a rear U-brake. I don’t find them hard to set up nor are wheel changes much harder, but they are inferior for single speed because the shift in position on the rear drop out translates to a shift of the brake pad relative to the rim. So you pretty much have to reset the brake pads if you change a gear.
Otto
I have a late 80s MTB, so of course it has a rear U-brake. I don’t find them hard to set up nor are wheel changes much harder, but they are inferior for single speed because the shift in position on the rear drop out translates to a shift of the brake pad relative to the rim. So you pretty much have to reset the brake pads if you change a gear.
Otto
#3
Junior Member
I had them on two bikes (Bridgestone MB-1 and an MB-2) and (1) they were a PITA to set up properly (I truly admire your wrenching skills if you had no problems setting them up and they work decently) & (2) ride/race in wet conditions and they caught every last bit of mud leading to no braking. Both of my bike with them were replaced with U-brakes as soon as they came on the market. After so many years in this sport/hobby I see roller-cams under the umbrella of a lot of bike-related things: There will be people who love them and there will be people who loathe them (e.g. internal cable routing, oval chainrings, threaded headsets, etc.)
Happy Holidays to you and I hope 2024 brings you safe & happy times on your bike(s)!
John
Happy Holidays to you and I hope 2024 brings you safe & happy times on your bike(s)!
John
#5
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Are you talking about centerpull rollercam brakes? Where the brake mounting bosses are higher than for cantis?
Likes For bboy314:
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,799
Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,025 Times
in
723 Posts
Good question. Sheldon Brown wrote that they are more difficult to set up than cantilever brakes and make for more difficult wheel changes. I have no experience, and it sounds like you didn’t find them harder to set up.
I have a late 80s MTB, so of course it has a rear U-brake. I don’t find them hard to set up nor are wheel changes much harder, but they are inferior for single speed because the shift in position on the rear drop out translates to a shift of the brake pad relative to the rim. So you pretty much have to reset the brake pads if you change a gear.
Otto
I have a late 80s MTB, so of course it has a rear U-brake. I don’t find them hard to set up nor are wheel changes much harder, but they are inferior for single speed because the shift in position on the rear drop out translates to a shift of the brake pad relative to the rim. So you pretty much have to reset the brake pads if you change a gear.
Otto
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,296
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8281 Post(s)
Liked 9,053 Times
in
4,479 Posts
With regular cantis you can install an in-line quick release between the cable stop on the frame and the straddle cable. Or, you can pull the straddle cable out of one side. I've had 5 bikes with cantis and cantis suck.
Last edited by big john; 12-23-23 at 10:34 PM.
Likes For big john:
#10
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,978
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 1,044 Times
in
667 Posts
Otto
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
bboy314, looks like the rollers on your brakes are plastic. Mine have brass rollers which were supplied by Suntour to replace the plastic rollers back in the day. I just received a set of Kool-stop red pads for another bike. How do you like them on the roller cam brakes?
#12
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,365
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,219 Times
in
2,366 Posts
I think they were never popular for much the same reason U-brakes fell out of favor. The studs on the frame were different from cantilever which meant that the bike had to be built for roller cams and the roller cam couldn’t be added to an existing bike. The reason linear brakes caught on was that they were backwards compatible.
And, no, cantilevers don’t “suck”. I have 3 current bikes with cantilevers…one of set on a traditional heavy loaded touring bike… and they work very well, thank you very much!
And, no, cantilevers don’t “suck”. I have 3 current bikes with cantilevers…one of set on a traditional heavy loaded touring bike… and they work very well, thank you very much!
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#13
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
If I am reading the info in this thread correctly, and Cantis were already established, then I can see why bike manufacturers would be hesitant to change the brake mount bosses and commit to a new brake standard unless there was a really big good reason to do so.
Likes For Kapusta:
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Kapusta, that makes a lot of sense, but I wonder if bike companies really care about that kind of thing as proprietary parts on lots of bikes out there exist. Especially the mini suspension headset/stems and seat post/frames that are popular right now.
Perhaps it was weight or cost? What ever it is, it's a shame they didn't stick around.
Perhaps it was weight or cost? What ever it is, it's a shame they didn't stick around.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pioneer Valley
Posts: 1,008
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 332 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times
in
385 Posts
bboy314, looks like the rollers on your brakes are plastic. Mine have brass rollers which were supplied by Suntour to replace the plastic rollers back in the day. I just received a set of Kool-stop red pads for another bike. How do you like them on the roller cam brakes?
#16
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10964 Post(s)
Liked 7,491 Times
in
4,189 Posts
I read this question and immediately flip it to- why would they have caught on?
They look cool, but I have never used any that I think work inherently better than a set of $20 entry Level tektro brakes.
They look cool, but I have never used any that I think work inherently better than a set of $20 entry Level tektro brakes.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,374
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2483 Post(s)
Liked 2,955 Times
in
1,678 Posts
Effort at the lever is easily adjusted to taste, unlike cantilevers. Lots of brakes have been described as requiring only one finger on the lever for full stopping power---it's actually true for roller cams. All that's needed is an adjustable wrench and an Allen key. (Loosen the Allen bolt, twist the spring fitting a few degrees with the adjustable wrench until the pads are centered, tighten the Allen bolt.)
Once you've figured out how to set them up, adjustment for brake pad positioning is easy, too.
If you move the brakes from one bike to another, all you need to accommodate narrower or wider stays or forks is a different width plate between the rollers. (Suntour made those plates in two widths.)
They're probably the most overbuilt bike brakes ever designed. I can't imagine any way they could become damaged, short of shearing the frame's braze-on fittings.
Cons:
Roller cams are bit heavier than cantilevers.
They are, of course, incompatible with frames designed for cantilevers.
If you do have to switch them to another roller cam bike with different clearances (which is a pretty unlikely scenario all these decades later), you probably will be unable to find wider or narrower plates.
The rear roller cam is easily fouled with mud. After the brakes had been on the market long enough for people to complain about that problem, Suntour came out with a triangular leather cover with straps that folded around the rollers and below the plate and fastened on the back with Velcro. (In our shop, we called them "sweaters.") Anyone who has roller cams could, of course, rig up one up from scrap leather, cloth, etc.
#18
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10964 Post(s)
Liked 7,491 Times
in
4,189 Posts
Pros:
Effort at the lever is easily adjusted to taste, unlike cantilevers. Lots of brakes have been described as requiring only one finger on the lever for full stopping power---it's actually true for roller cams. All that's needed is an adjustable wrench and an Allen key. (Loosen the Allen bolt, twist the spring fitting a few degrees with the adjustable wrench until the pads are centered, tighten the Allen bolt.)
Once you've figured out how to set them up, adjustment for brake pad positioning is easy, too.
If you move the brakes from one bike to another, all you need to accommodate narrower or wider stays or forks is a different width plate between the rollers. (Suntour made those plates in two widths.)
They're probably the most overbuilt bike brakes ever designed. I can't imagine any way they could become damaged, short of shearing the frame's braze-on fittings.
Cons:
Roller cams are bit heavier than cantilevers.
They are, of course, incompatible with frames designed for cantilevers.
If you do have to switch them to another roller cam bike with different clearances (which is a pretty unlikely scenario all these decades later), you probably will be unable to find wider or narrower plates.
The rear roller cam is easily fouled with mud. After the brakes had been on the market long enough for people to complain about that problem, Suntour came out with a triangular leather cover with straps that folded around the rollers and below the plate and fastened on the back with Velcro. (In our shop, we called them "sweaters.") Anyone who has roller cams could, of course, rig up one up from scrap leather, cloth, etc.
Effort at the lever is easily adjusted to taste, unlike cantilevers. Lots of brakes have been described as requiring only one finger on the lever for full stopping power---it's actually true for roller cams. All that's needed is an adjustable wrench and an Allen key. (Loosen the Allen bolt, twist the spring fitting a few degrees with the adjustable wrench until the pads are centered, tighten the Allen bolt.)
Once you've figured out how to set them up, adjustment for brake pad positioning is easy, too.
If you move the brakes from one bike to another, all you need to accommodate narrower or wider stays or forks is a different width plate between the rollers. (Suntour made those plates in two widths.)
They're probably the most overbuilt bike brakes ever designed. I can't imagine any way they could become damaged, short of shearing the frame's braze-on fittings.
Cons:
Roller cams are bit heavier than cantilevers.
They are, of course, incompatible with frames designed for cantilevers.
If you do have to switch them to another roller cam bike with different clearances (which is a pretty unlikely scenario all these decades later), you probably will be unable to find wider or narrower plates.
The rear roller cam is easily fouled with mud. After the brakes had been on the market long enough for people to complain about that problem, Suntour came out with a triangular leather cover with straps that folded around the rollers and below the plate and fastened on the back with Velcro. (In our shop, we called them "sweaters.") Anyone who has roller cams could, of course, rig up one up from scrap leather, cloth, etc.
Not trying to argue, and your well thought out response is genuinely appreciated, I just still come back tonot asking why they didn't catch on, but rather why would they have caught on?
I do think that they got a bit of a rough reputation because they were trendy to slap under the chainstays where they didn't work great once muddy and were difficult to clean. Right or wrong, reputation and wives tales go a long way in how cycling tech is perceived(crack n fail).
Likes For mstateglfr:
#19
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,365
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,219 Times
in
2,366 Posts
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 2,483
Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1237 Post(s)
Liked 321 Times
in
248 Posts
LOL. They have more metal than my DRUM brake. Which has ZERO faults or adjustments, easy to dismount the wheel, zero rim wear and goes 35,000 miles.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 12-26-23 at 08:52 AM.
#21
Must be symmetrical
That applies to most but not all cantilevers. There are a number of cantilevers that use nut type tension adjusters like the roller cams did. Paul still uses them but there are many other examples from back in the day. Shimano, of which there are far too many examples, made bad cantilevers that gave cantilevers the bad name they gained.
My 987s are one of my favorite brake.
With these questions of why or why not a technical alternative was adopted, the technical attributes of the thing are just part of the equation. Also have to think about bikes as a mass market, mass produced product. Do the technical benefits outweigh the hit to production efficiency and bottom line?
For instance, I think the method Shimano adopted of pin in whole with tension screw was about mass product and ease of set up. It's clearly technically inferior to the Dia Compe method in terms if adjustability. But They realized most consumers don't need, want or care about the adjustment, or even realize adjustment is possible, while a factory worker on a bike assembly line, or a mechanic setting up a new bike in a shop, is way more efficient and quick with the simpler system.
And then they added the presized link cables, which again, offer less adjustment and are never ideal. You can almost always get it better with a traditional straddle cable--but the links were efficient and good enough for most people. And way faster on the production end of things.