cheap ways to lighten my bike
#27
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i think i am just going to make sure everything is aligned and tightened right and that will be good enough for me. but i will replace the pedals, duh. does it really matter what kind u get. i am going to get clipless.
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clipless pedals are for racers, get some primo tenderizers (sp) are some snafu pedals.
#32
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The rims on the next flatspin are actully 6061 reinforced single wall rims. they are the nicesest of the "walmart" bikes. that doesn't make them strong as alex or sun single walls though
#33
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DMV are nice and I use Mosh, sealed bearings, removable pins.
Mosh are cheaper, seem to work for me. Called Halfstep platforms.
Mosh are cheaper, seem to work for me. Called Halfstep platforms.
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Originally Posted by Mr.Noobie
clipless pedals are for racers, get some primo tenderizers (sp) are some snafu pedals.
#35
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beerman u got issues..he was just simply asking how to lighten his bike. it doesnt matter how crap it is hes allowd to ask wat he wants and not hav u open ur mouth and talk bout ur expensive bike..rememba he said hes not even that serious about it
#36
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right. i just do things like wheelies, manuals and small jumps. so i don't need a bike with top of the line stuff on it. (i will get different rims though)
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Rice - Let's begin by being honest...
Your bike is bottom of the line and is not safe for ANY jumping. Next bikes are a low-end Wal-Mart/Toys-R-Us bike that is comparable to a Yugo (car)... That is, every time you get on it and ride, you are seriously putting your life at risk.
If you are even thinking about the most remote of thoughts to make your bike better - put it out of your head. Do not change one thing on your bike, because spending $10.00 to improve your bike is a waste of money.
I do not mean that in a bad way, I mean that if you enjoy doing some jumping, then you should get an entry level bmx bike.
Check www.danscomp.com and look at some of the bikes there. The DK Cincinatti for example is a pretty good entry level bike that is much more in line with the quality you should be looking at for well under $300.00. That may seem like a lot, but your parents spend upwards of $10,000.00 or MORE on their primary transportation (car) and kids who often use bikes to get around on often get sub $100.00 bikes and then parents complain about the quality of them.
No, if you are here to get advice on things to do to your bike, then what you should be doing is saving some money for a new bike, or not ask. You really can keep your bike running solid and not change anything out and you will be fine for a while. Don't change anything though, it simply is not worth it on that bike.
Your bike is bottom of the line and is not safe for ANY jumping. Next bikes are a low-end Wal-Mart/Toys-R-Us bike that is comparable to a Yugo (car)... That is, every time you get on it and ride, you are seriously putting your life at risk.
If you are even thinking about the most remote of thoughts to make your bike better - put it out of your head. Do not change one thing on your bike, because spending $10.00 to improve your bike is a waste of money.
I do not mean that in a bad way, I mean that if you enjoy doing some jumping, then you should get an entry level bmx bike.
Check www.danscomp.com and look at some of the bikes there. The DK Cincinatti for example is a pretty good entry level bike that is much more in line with the quality you should be looking at for well under $300.00. That may seem like a lot, but your parents spend upwards of $10,000.00 or MORE on their primary transportation (car) and kids who often use bikes to get around on often get sub $100.00 bikes and then parents complain about the quality of them.
No, if you are here to get advice on things to do to your bike, then what you should be doing is saving some money for a new bike, or not ask. You really can keep your bike running solid and not change anything out and you will be fine for a while. Don't change anything though, it simply is not worth it on that bike.
#39
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Thats how much I paid? who saw who coming? Thats the price of high end bmx bike.. My bike kicks ass and I love it and havent changed a thing on it in over a year... If a medium quality pre-built bmx bike is like 600 in dans.. why wouldnt a hand built top shelf bike be over 1000?
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You can't buy coolness, but you can certainly buy a good bike..
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Originally Posted by haro_rider
beerman u got issues..he was just simply asking how to lighten his bike. it doesnt matter how crap it is hes allowd to ask wat he wants and not hav u open ur mouth and talk bout ur expensive bike..rememba he said hes not even that serious about it
Originally Posted by rice400
i don't know y u guys would want a bike that costs $400 or more. i would be to afraid to ride it. ( wouldn't want it to get stolen, busted)
edit:
Originally Posted by Brianwh
You paid $1300 US dollars for a _BMX_ bike!?
They must have seen you coming. Don't you know you can't buy coolness?
They must have seen you coming. Don't you know you can't buy coolness?
#42
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I dont understand why people are *****ing about someone spending 1300 dollars on a bike. Some people love biking and they just want the best so they can push themselves further. Beerman and sxe fbm rider are serious riders and I'm pretty sure they love biking. So whats the big f***ing deal about a dollar sign. Its not even your money. And as for buying coolness anyone who thinks they can be cool by buying something is bound to end up without hair in a miata trying to pick up 20 year old girls.
THIS IS LIFE find something you love and dont let anything stop you.
THIS IS LIFE find something you love and dont let anything stop you.
#43
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Most pro riders run upwards of $1,000.00 retail for custom bikes. I know my bike runs right in the $1500.00 range if I were to part it all up separately.
Some things on the bike are irreplacable or prototypes that are not 'generally' available to the public.
But, look at a top of the line frame: Standard STA-R Ox - That's $400.00 for the frame alone. It is also considered by many who ride it, to be the best and most durable street frame ever produced.
Add a good set of 3-piece cranks and a good wheelset with a top notch cassette hub and lightweight parts that are actually durable... The cranks are near $200.00 (Profile w/Ti Spindle) and wheels - let's call it an EASY $250.00 for wheels. So, without anything more to the bike than the frame, wheels, and cranks we have already spent $850.00
Not one of those items is 'garbage' or 'over-priced' they are exactly in line with the quality of the part and will make a built up bike that will survive things like jumping down 20+ stairs, or bailing seriously on a jump and launching your bike 40 feet and it landing on concrete. This is EXACTLY why there are high end bikes out there... Because some riders are very serious and demand high-end products.
In the past 12 months (other than normal wear items) I have not replaced ONE part on my bike. Not one thing has broken OR needed to be lubed, tightened, or generally maintained. The bike is about ready for some serious work, but it is still ready, right now, to be pulled out and ridden hard.
That is what $1,500.00+ will get you, reliability, strength, decent weight, and pure quality.
NOTE: Ares Choise, Titanium Frame: $1,100.00
Some things on the bike are irreplacable or prototypes that are not 'generally' available to the public.
But, look at a top of the line frame: Standard STA-R Ox - That's $400.00 for the frame alone. It is also considered by many who ride it, to be the best and most durable street frame ever produced.
Add a good set of 3-piece cranks and a good wheelset with a top notch cassette hub and lightweight parts that are actually durable... The cranks are near $200.00 (Profile w/Ti Spindle) and wheels - let's call it an EASY $250.00 for wheels. So, without anything more to the bike than the frame, wheels, and cranks we have already spent $850.00
Not one of those items is 'garbage' or 'over-priced' they are exactly in line with the quality of the part and will make a built up bike that will survive things like jumping down 20+ stairs, or bailing seriously on a jump and launching your bike 40 feet and it landing on concrete. This is EXACTLY why there are high end bikes out there... Because some riders are very serious and demand high-end products.
In the past 12 months (other than normal wear items) I have not replaced ONE part on my bike. Not one thing has broken OR needed to be lubed, tightened, or generally maintained. The bike is about ready for some serious work, but it is still ready, right now, to be pulled out and ridden hard.
That is what $1,500.00+ will get you, reliability, strength, decent weight, and pure quality.
NOTE: Ares Choise, Titanium Frame: $1,100.00
#47
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do u have a job? if u do u are lucky.
i am only 13 so i can't get a job. thats y i can't afford a real nice bike. when i turn 14-15 i am going to buy about a $300+ bike
i am only 13 so i can't get a job. thats y i can't afford a real nice bike. when i turn 14-15 i am going to buy about a $300+ bike
#48
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Hmm I dont ride BMX, but i can tell you NEXT is a bit under par for jumps, but if you want to use it, thta's your thing.
I would take the advice in this forum, and also look for some alloy handlebars/seatpost. After that save up for a diamondback or better....bug your parents to help you on it, etc. Really the quality difference is major.
Just be sure not to go beyond what your bike can take. Replacing cheap parts with upgraded parts will suffice for a while. Maybe you can get hold of some dia-compe bmx brakes...they should be a decent upgrade from whats on your bike. Even if its a tad heavier, the stopping power will be far better.
If you have a coaster brake, you could get it rmeoved for a standard freewheel hub, but at the cost of that, it's a bit more than what should be spent on that bike. Gain isn't worth the cash spent. Now if your rims are steel...going aluminum will lighten it up quite a bit, but is rather costly, possibly more than the cost of the bike.
Basically jsut rmeove unneeded stuff and cut down things you dont need. kickstands are first to go, then pegs, then reflectors (use tape), chainguards and spokeprotectors, and then worry about cutting excess seatposts, and cheap part replacements.
Check out your LBS to see if they have any solid used parts. Be sure thay are good though. Sometimes you can get a nice set of handlebars or setposts for a song.
I would take the advice in this forum, and also look for some alloy handlebars/seatpost. After that save up for a diamondback or better....bug your parents to help you on it, etc. Really the quality difference is major.
Just be sure not to go beyond what your bike can take. Replacing cheap parts with upgraded parts will suffice for a while. Maybe you can get hold of some dia-compe bmx brakes...they should be a decent upgrade from whats on your bike. Even if its a tad heavier, the stopping power will be far better.
If you have a coaster brake, you could get it rmeoved for a standard freewheel hub, but at the cost of that, it's a bit more than what should be spent on that bike. Gain isn't worth the cash spent. Now if your rims are steel...going aluminum will lighten it up quite a bit, but is rather costly, possibly more than the cost of the bike.
Basically jsut rmeove unneeded stuff and cut down things you dont need. kickstands are first to go, then pegs, then reflectors (use tape), chainguards and spokeprotectors, and then worry about cutting excess seatposts, and cheap part replacements.
Check out your LBS to see if they have any solid used parts. Be sure thay are good though. Sometimes you can get a nice set of handlebars or setposts for a song.
#50
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Originally Posted by rice400
do u have a job? if u do u are lucky.
i am only 13 so i can't get a job. thats y i can't afford a real nice bike. when i turn 14-15 i am going to buy about a $300+ bike
i am only 13 so i can't get a job. thats y i can't afford a real nice bike. when i turn 14-15 i am going to buy about a $300+ bike
Really, not having money is fine, but if you can't afford something, then you likely can't improve it. It takes money to get a entry level bike and it takes a lot more money to get a high quality bike. Don't sweat the bike you are on, just talk to your parents and show them some of these posts. Do some reading and some research on bikes and see if they will help support you in getting a GOOD bike instead of something that could wind up killing you.
Now CATATONIC SAID
I would take the advice in this forum, and also look for some alloy handlebars/seatpost. After that save up for a diamondback or better....bug your parents to help you on it, etc. Really the quality difference is major.
Just be sure not to go beyond what your bike can take. Replacing cheap parts with upgraded parts will suffice for a while. Maybe you can get hold of some dia-compe bmx brakes...they should be a decent upgrade from whats on your bike. Even if its a tad heavier, the stopping power will be far better.
Basically jsut rmeove unneeded stuff and cut down things you dont need. kickstands are first to go, then pegs, then reflectors (use tape), chainguards and spokeprotectors, and then worry about cutting excess seatposts, and cheap part replacements.
Just be sure not to go beyond what your bike can take. Replacing cheap parts with upgraded parts will suffice for a while. Maybe you can get hold of some dia-compe bmx brakes...they should be a decent upgrade from whats on your bike. Even if its a tad heavier, the stopping power will be far better.
Basically jsut rmeove unneeded stuff and cut down things you dont need. kickstands are first to go, then pegs, then reflectors (use tape), chainguards and spokeprotectors, and then worry about cutting excess seatposts, and cheap part replacements.
1. Alloy bars? What you want is good 4130 chromoly or better handlebars. Some of the best are things like 4130 heat-treated bars. They use stronger material, so less is necessary to provide the same strength as steel bars. They are upwards of $30.00 for any good bars.
2. Replacing brake calipers with Dia-Compes will do exactly NOTHING for your stopping power if you know nothing about brake maintenance. The single biggest thing you can do to make your brakes work is upgrade to a good chrome plated wheelset. Otherwise, just lube your cables with Tri-Flow and keep your rims and brake pads clean with Simple Green.
3. Yes, kickstands are a no-no. But, PEGS are there to be used. If you don't use them, throw them away - immediately after you throw away your reflectors. If you are riding at night then be on a proper road bike, not out doing tricks. If you are out doing tricks at night, wear something reflective. Reflectors don't typically go on any freestyle bmx bike.