Graboid1

I am restoring two bikes, and need to paint a few of the parts as I assemble them. The frames are good as-is, but, for instance, I need to paint the handlebars white for one of them, as I can't find the proper bars in gloss white. I know using spray paint seems really cheesy, but are there any tough paints out there that might work? Thanks so much.

USAZorro

Powder coat is pretty reasonable.

Graboid1

Great idea. I did not think of that. I will look into it.

squirtdad

spray paint out of cans from hardware stores can make a very pretty finish but are not durable. especially for thinks like handle bars.

I would be really careful about painting parts as the will most likely not look good very quickly....much faster than the frame

roadbikeChris

I have heard enamel rattle cans are quite nice when not rushed through the process. Thats what I am going to do, using Rust-oleum primer and paint in one. However I am only painting the frame, not any parts.

Graboid1

Good thoughts... Thanks for the advice. I will look into powder coating, but want to keep the hassle and costs down.

squirtdad

can look really nice, but not durable...... which is no fun for the amount of work involved to do it right

take frame to bare metal
acid etch primer
primer
several color coats
clear coats

roadbikeChris

Yep!

Graboid1

Think I'll spend some time looking for a local person doing powder coating...

ryansu

If this is a road bike once the bars are wrapped you will only see a few inches of the bars either side of the stem any reason a standard alloy bars won't work?

Graboid1

Good point. It is a vintage mountain bike. Once everything is on the bars, not much shows, but most newer bars I find of any quality are covered with logos and markings. The original bars on the bike were plain gloss white.

Senrab62 

I was recently told the trick with spray can paint is to buy the nozzle and extended curing time (like 3+ months)

ToniH. 

I would definitely go with a powder coat.

Loose Chain

Ultramax 2000K two-part clear over rattle can Krylon or such is as durable as any other two-part finish. The 2000K has a can inside of a can, when ready to use you push a plunger on the bottom of the can and it mixes the two components. The pot life is decent, I think up to 48 hours.

Graboid1

Powdercoat will be my first option. Thanks much.

Graboid1

Thanks for the info. If powdercoat is not a viable option, I will look into the Ultramax. Thanks much for the info. I am sure I will end up doing an entire frame one of these days. It will be a good experiment on a beater bike.

cudak888 

Agreed; this can seal up a simple rattle can job and make it look quite legit indeed.

However - a fair warning to those new to the product: Just because it is in a spray can does not make Spraymax 2K any less harmful than professional automotive clear. It is still an isocyanate-based hardener, and that isocynate can be ingested into the body through the skin. A respirator with this is not enough.

Some may disagree or suggest this is overblown. Google about iso paint (especially the experiences shared in the threads on the H.A.M.B. about this subject) and draw your own conclusions before exposing yourself to a can of this stuff.

-Kurt

Loose Chain

Kudak gives a good warning but the stuff is not Plutonium. You need either a forced air respirator, or one rated for isocynate products or my method. I am a breath hold skindiver. I am able to dive to 60 to 100 feet, spear a fish and return to the surface or collect a memory. This means I hold my breath for several minutes. For a bicycle, I get everything ready, wiped down and set up and then simply hold my breath for the first pass, then the second and so on. I use a good respirator and plenty of ventilation in my garage and eye protection. I have set up for larger jobs and used my SCUBA equipment as a respirator, not a full size 70/80 cf tank but a small pony bottle of 12cf. But for a large job I could use a long hose and a standard bottle. I did a motorcycle this way using HVLP equipment and professional two-part coatings.

You should also wear gloves, the thin latex or similar types, cover up with long sleeves and pants. People who work in the industry would wear Tyvek suits or similar and those space suit forced air head gear, but they are exposed continuously, a small exposure to the Ultramax if you have taken decent precautions is possible but you know, gamma rays worry me too.

I think most people can rig up a satisfactory solution, painting in a spare bedroom in an apartment building is probably out.

Last ride 76 

Nothing makes rattle can paint durable on high use items like bikes. I wish it weren't the case. I exclude 2k paints, I don't know yet. They require different application methods, due to a very serious risk profile.

This frame has been "curing" for 2+ years... Still "relatively" fragile. I'm considering hitting it with 2k clear. My respirator cartridges have expired, and I've been too busy to get set up properly. I'm very leery of using 2k. Only have one set of lungs. Thanks Kurt, for mentioning skin surfaces as well. Do it right, or not at all. Will try to get to it before weather turns cold.

Miele Man

I painted this Tange Infinity MIELE frameset with KRYLON spray paints back in 2005. The image might give a recent date because I had to transfer all my files to this new computer when my other one died. It seems to be holding up well.



Cheers