Lotus Odyssey Odyssey
#1
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
Lotus Odyssey Odyssey
Fresh from its shake-down ride:
And an odyssey it has been. The bike came apart easily except for the bottom bracket. I did not know that Suntour made sealed cartridge BB’s in the early 80’s. It is an odd thing, which basically floats in the BB shell, with lock rings on both sides. Though I got the left cup out without a tool, the right one was stuck, and I had no tool to fit it.
After a trip to all six bike shops in town, I found one tool:
It was broken:
Finally, sixth shop put frame on stand. The cup would move freely about 1-1/2 turns and bind up, cross threading itself. Bike shop guy man-handled the snot out of it and finally got it out, and ruined the tubing sticker with the stand clamp (%^%$!!!). I should have said something as even I know better than to not put a rag between the rubber clamps and the tubes, but I didn't, so shame on me. The cups are light alloy and the threads look pretty bare, but the BB shell seemed to do OK with a minor chasing. Left $65 and 30 minutes later with an XT cartridge BB. I am not sure if I am happy about this, but it is done.
Bike went back together OK. These are the smallest Dia Comp cantileaver brakes that I have ever seen. The return springs seem like they are made out of paper clips, but they adjusted easily and stop well with the new pads. One loss to the new levers is a screw-adjustment for the brake cables. I may miss that some day.
The changes besides the BB include a Shimano self-extracting crank bolts, dropped the 50 tooth ring to a 48 for true ½-step gearing (also dropped the 30-tooth granny to a 28), 6-speed 14-28 freewheel got swapped for a 7-speed 13-30, higher stem (Technomic), Nitto Noodle bars, some older Shimano SLR levers. I had also been saving these for a special build:
The pedals in the picture are VO platform pedals that I put clips on. They are great platform pedlas, but do not work well with the clips. I and am going to switch them out for some older Malliards that I like much better. The bar tape is the rubbery Cinelli stuff which I do not like. I think I am going to put cloth tape over it.
I spent a lot of time considering fenders. The stays on the Bluemels it came with are rather bent and rusted. I really wanted to put on some Planet Bike Cascadia’s, but sometime in the last year or so, they have started to put this big obnoxious logo on the back fender.. If they are going to plaster that thing on what is otherwise a nice looking fender, they should pay ME $40 to put it on my bike rather than the other way around.
I have SKS in both silver and black, and I had these VO Aluminum ones from a project I lost interest in a while back. I think the SKS’s woyuld last longer, but the deciding factor was the mounting brackets on the VO’s worked very well in mounting both the fender stays and the racks to the eyelets on the fok. The Blumels were bent all over to get to the to-eyelets, and the SKS’s, with their chunky break-away plastic clip thing would not work easily, if at all. In the end, I am happy with the way the VO’s look, but I hope they stand up as well as the chromo-plastics.
I am still not sold on the Pesala’s and 27” wheels. I have has casing problems with Panaracers before, and upon mounting them, these did not look any better. Jacking them up to 110 psi to get them to seat correctly helped, but it did not instill much confidence. I am holding some 700C rims in case they do not work out. The bag is Rivendell. I am looking for paniers.
The bike rides great. One surprizing thing to me was how bars 4 cm wider than what I am used to (44 cm vs 40 cm) changed the feel of the bike, especially when climbing out of the saddle. It is hard for me to really pull up and in like before.
And an odyssey it has been. The bike came apart easily except for the bottom bracket. I did not know that Suntour made sealed cartridge BB’s in the early 80’s. It is an odd thing, which basically floats in the BB shell, with lock rings on both sides. Though I got the left cup out without a tool, the right one was stuck, and I had no tool to fit it.
After a trip to all six bike shops in town, I found one tool:
It was broken:
Finally, sixth shop put frame on stand. The cup would move freely about 1-1/2 turns and bind up, cross threading itself. Bike shop guy man-handled the snot out of it and finally got it out, and ruined the tubing sticker with the stand clamp (%^%$!!!). I should have said something as even I know better than to not put a rag between the rubber clamps and the tubes, but I didn't, so shame on me. The cups are light alloy and the threads look pretty bare, but the BB shell seemed to do OK with a minor chasing. Left $65 and 30 minutes later with an XT cartridge BB. I am not sure if I am happy about this, but it is done.
Bike went back together OK. These are the smallest Dia Comp cantileaver brakes that I have ever seen. The return springs seem like they are made out of paper clips, but they adjusted easily and stop well with the new pads. One loss to the new levers is a screw-adjustment for the brake cables. I may miss that some day.
The changes besides the BB include a Shimano self-extracting crank bolts, dropped the 50 tooth ring to a 48 for true ½-step gearing (also dropped the 30-tooth granny to a 28), 6-speed 14-28 freewheel got swapped for a 7-speed 13-30, higher stem (Technomic), Nitto Noodle bars, some older Shimano SLR levers. I had also been saving these for a special build:
The pedals in the picture are VO platform pedals that I put clips on. They are great platform pedlas, but do not work well with the clips. I and am going to switch them out for some older Malliards that I like much better. The bar tape is the rubbery Cinelli stuff which I do not like. I think I am going to put cloth tape over it.
I spent a lot of time considering fenders. The stays on the Bluemels it came with are rather bent and rusted. I really wanted to put on some Planet Bike Cascadia’s, but sometime in the last year or so, they have started to put this big obnoxious logo on the back fender.. If they are going to plaster that thing on what is otherwise a nice looking fender, they should pay ME $40 to put it on my bike rather than the other way around.
I have SKS in both silver and black, and I had these VO Aluminum ones from a project I lost interest in a while back. I think the SKS’s woyuld last longer, but the deciding factor was the mounting brackets on the VO’s worked very well in mounting both the fender stays and the racks to the eyelets on the fok. The Blumels were bent all over to get to the to-eyelets, and the SKS’s, with their chunky break-away plastic clip thing would not work easily, if at all. In the end, I am happy with the way the VO’s look, but I hope they stand up as well as the chromo-plastics.
I am still not sold on the Pesala’s and 27” wheels. I have has casing problems with Panaracers before, and upon mounting them, these did not look any better. Jacking them up to 110 psi to get them to seat correctly helped, but it did not instill much confidence. I am holding some 700C rims in case they do not work out. The bag is Rivendell. I am looking for paniers.
The bike rides great. One surprizing thing to me was how bars 4 cm wider than what I am used to (44 cm vs 40 cm) changed the feel of the bike, especially when climbing out of the saddle. It is hard for me to really pull up and in like before.
#2
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WOW beautiful bike! I have one of those BBs somewhere. they were nice for their time. if you took only the frame they did not have alot of options for clamping it. also they should not have 'manhandled' while you were watching.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#3
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Nice job on the build!
#4
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Very intelligent and lovely.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#5
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Beautiful ride -
I too like narrow bars but find wider bars preferable with bar-end shifters.
I too like narrow bars but find wider bars preferable with bar-end shifters.
#6
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+1 bravo!
I think you'll like the DC cantis, if they are the ones I think they are, but will you have enough adjustment if you decide to go to 700C?
I think you'll like the DC cantis, if they are the ones I think they are, but will you have enough adjustment if you decide to go to 700C?
#7
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
I already stuck some 700c's on when I first thought about switching out the 27's. They fit fine brake-wise (I rode it to the liquor store with the 700c's). I think I can get a 700x38 under the fenders. 27x1 1/4 fit, but the 1 3/8 knobbies rub on the fender bolts at the fork crown...dremel tool or smooth tread should fix that problem.
#9
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
Just curious, how come the VO pedals didn't work out with the clips?
#10
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Wow, that is beautiful. Great job! I usually dislike the look of those mile high stems but something about your bike just looks really balanced. Nice work.
That is a real let down when a mechanic is rough with something we think is so so nice. Did he say anything at all, even a sorry for messing up your sticker?
That is a real let down when a mechanic is rough with something we think is so so nice. Did he say anything at all, even a sorry for messing up your sticker?
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#11
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
Did he say anything at all, even a sorry for messing up your sticker?
#13
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Beautiful...and I'm biased...since my first real bike was a Lotus Odysee. I loved the heck out of that thing from about 13-16...until I really developed a love for road bikes. ALso, the Lotus got hit, with me on it, by a truck...and it damaged the frame.
#14
Senior Member
Another beautiful touring bike. Great job ! I have a SunTour sealed BB on my Holdsworth touring bike-have never ever had a problem with it, and yes, I do have the tool to remove it. Sorry to hear about the tough job removing yours from your frame. Anyhoo, enjoy your great bike.
#15
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
Ir seems that all of my bikes I have managed to change something...saddle, pendals, wheels, bars, levers...at least something. Each bike has a box with the original stuff in it in the barn. At some point, I would like to find another Suntour sealed BB to...well...toss in the box if the Smithsonian comes a knock'in. It is not a priority though.
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Looks like this post is a few years old, but worth a try! I'm doing some work on my Lotus Odyssey (1984 - looks like yours has the same tubing as mine - same year, perhaps?) after a little 500 mile tour that highlighted some issues...
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
#17
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Looks like this post is a few years old, but worth a try! I'm doing some work on my Lotus Odyssey (1984 - looks like yours has the same tubing as mine - same year, perhaps?) after a little 500 mile tour that highlighted some issues...
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
Basically running 7 is no big deal if the bike is at 126 other than that you may have to add a spacer to get the chain to clear the chain stay. If at 120, you'll have to spread the frame which with a steel frame is very doable.
Based on the OP's post, I'm guessing this bike is 126 mm in the rear since his bike originally came with 6 on the back but one measurement is worth a 1,000 guesses.
If looking for new wheels, it's tough to beat these from velomine:
https://www.velomine.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=739
The sun CR 18 rims are plenty tough and the price is tough to beat. I've ordered wheels from velomine before and I was happy with the build quality. Note that these are 27 inch wheels (so was the OP's Lotus). If the bike came with 27 inch, you will want to stick with that. There is some adjustability with cantilevers but you may find that the cantis you have won't play nicely with 700c rims.
Last edited by bikemig; 12-24-16 at 01:54 PM.
#18
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You'll get used to pulling up. When I first built my upright with 61 cm Map bars, it was crazy strange to stand.
In no time I was used to it and really enjoy the bike now.
Wide bars are really helpful for handling a load and handling rough surfaces.
#19
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
Looks like this post is a few years old, but worth a try! I'm doing some work on my Lotus Odyssey (1984 - looks like yours has the same tubing as mine - same year, perhaps?) after a little 500 mile tour that highlighted some issues...
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
The formerly good-shape BB is shot (also struggling to find that tool). That shouldn't be hard to deal with. The main thing I'm struggling with is wheels/drivetrain. My freewheel (Suntour Ultra-6) is missing a few teeth in the mid-range cogs. I could buy a NOS Ultra-6, but I am more interested in your switch to a 7speed 13x30. Does your bike have 120mm rear hub spacing? Did you stretch the frame? Re-dish? Basically: do I have any option other than switching to a 5 speed (don't want to do - I use that low-low!) that doesn't require me cold-setting to 126mm? Should I even be that fussy about cold-setting?
Wheels are a bit of a project unto themselves - front rim has cracked, and I've got a temp wheel on it now. Rear needs to be rebuilt at the very least - I've broken at least 10 spokes...Spoke tension is all screwy. The hubs and rim sidewalls are in good shape, however.
Interestingly, I've already replaced stem and handlebars to same set up that you did. Same tires and fenders too. (I also have had some issues with the tires - but the gum wall looks nice...) I switched to the pretty drillium TRP RRL SR Brake Levers, and am loving them.
I'd like to keep this bike outfitted as a good touring option. It's comfy - and maybe more importantly, it's the bike I've got. And I'm a poor grad student who loves to tour.
I should ride this bike more often because it is a super comfy ride. One thing I have noticed compared to the other two big touring bikes I have ('83 Expedition and '84 Pro tour) is that the Lotus handles about the same loaded versus unloaded, while the other two are very different when laden. Not sure why this is.
Last edited by balindamood; 12-24-16 at 05:07 PM.
#20
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Basically running 7 is no big deal if the bike is at 126 other than that you may have to add a spacer to get the chain to clear the chain stay. If at 120, you'll have to spread the frame which with a steel frame is very doable.
Based on the OP's post, I'm guessing this bike is 126 mm in the rear since his bike originally came with 6 on the back but one measurement is worth a 1,000 guesses.
If looking for new wheels, it's tough to beat these from velomine:
Sun CR18 27 5,6,7 Speed Freewheel hubs Road Bike Wheelset [72274726665] - $115.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
The sun CR 18 rims are plenty tough and the price is tough to beat. I've ordered wheels from velomine before and I was happy with the build quality. Note that these are 27 inch wheels (so was the OP's Lotus). If the bike came with 27 inch, you will want to stick with that. There is some adjustability with cantilevers but you may find that the cantis you have won't play nicely with 700c rims.
Based on the OP's post, I'm guessing this bike is 126 mm in the rear since his bike originally came with 6 on the back but one measurement is worth a 1,000 guesses.
If looking for new wheels, it's tough to beat these from velomine:
Sun CR18 27 5,6,7 Speed Freewheel hubs Road Bike Wheelset [72274726665] - $115.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
The sun CR 18 rims are plenty tough and the price is tough to beat. I've ordered wheels from velomine before and I was happy with the build quality. Note that these are 27 inch wheels (so was the OP's Lotus). If the bike came with 27 inch, you will want to stick with that. There is some adjustability with cantilevers but you may find that the cantis you have won't play nicely with 700c rims.
Thanks for the recommendation on the Sun CR 18s - I'd been looking at them, but hadn't heard anything about quality. I do feel that a new set of wheels are in order. My temp front wheel is steel rimmed, which is pretty lousy for rainy PNW weather.
#21
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I do not recall that I re-spaced the rear end, so it must be 126. I rode the bike a lot the first year or two, but it has been hanging in the garage for a while while I mess with other things. I have some minor changes I want to make, like swap back to the original BB and change the pedals again. I have had some issues getting the tires to seat properly.
I should ride this bike more often because it is a super comfy ride. One thing I have noticed compared to the other two big touring bikes I have ('83 Expedition and '84 Pro tour) is that the Lotus handles about the same loaded versus unloaded, while the other two are very different when laden. Not sure why this is.
I should ride this bike more often because it is a super comfy ride. One thing I have noticed compared to the other two big touring bikes I have ('83 Expedition and '84 Pro tour) is that the Lotus handles about the same loaded versus unloaded, while the other two are very different when laden. Not sure why this is.
I've got a set of Shimano A530s pedals on, which I love for touring. Not exactly the right aesthetic, though. What's the issue with the Shimano BB? Or just want to get back to original? The Suntour behaved very nicely for me for the first year I had the bike, but after tour, it's feeling pretty lousy. Was thinking about switching to a Shimano UN55 (looks like the 70-series isn't around anymore).
Funny - that first tour I took it on, I was thinking the same thing. After a couple weeks of loaded riding, I dropped my bags to run to the store. Thought to myself "wow, this feels pretty much exactly the same".
#22
Wrench Savant
Thread Starter
There was nothing wrong with the Shimano BB, I just sourced an original replacement, and a tool to install it, so I did. No issues with that one. From another experi3nce, and from what I have seen, the Suntour ones go from just fine to destroyed in a very short period of time. I have not done enough forensics to find out why this is, but it seems to be much faster than current Shimano offerings.
#23
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#24
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I've used a bmx freewheel tool to remove one of these BBs before. Don't recall which specific tool, but could be something to mention the folks at shops who understandably wouldn't think to look at freewheel tools to remove a BB.
Those BBs were almost great. Sealed(ish), adjustable chainline., but they tended to let moisture in, and not back out.
Those BBs were almost great. Sealed(ish), adjustable chainline., but they tended to let moisture in, and not back out.