Bars with Good Multiple Hand Positions?
04-29-16, 01:07 PM
#51
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My seat post is steel, hope I didn't confuse that point. I meant that I would try bending alloy for handle bars as an experiment in the future or I may make the bars out of steel if it doesn't but I know Al doesn't take a bend as well as steel.
04-29-16, 01:20 PM
#52
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It seems that many people don't understand what drop bars are for or how to use them. They are the almost universal choice for long events such as PBP, 765 miles in 55-90 hours. In long events like that, comfort and being able to stay on the bike for very long periods is the number one issue. Simple math tells us that the 90 hour group averages 8.5 mph. Most only get 2 hours of sleep a night so their over-the-road average would be only 9.1. So drop bars aren't particularly for racing, though they're good for that, too.
For illustrations, simply google Images for "PBP handlebars." The first few images you'll probably see will be of Jan Heine, the publisher of Bicycle Quarterly. Note the many hand positions being used in the various images.
Hand positions: Lovely Bicycle!: Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
How to avoid hand pain: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post12953035
and note the exact hand positions that these women are using.
For illustrations, simply google Images for "PBP handlebars." The first few images you'll probably see will be of Jan Heine, the publisher of Bicycle Quarterly. Note the many hand positions being used in the various images.
Hand positions: Lovely Bicycle!: Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
How to avoid hand pain: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post12953035
and note the exact hand positions that these women are using.
With trekking/aero bars I get the same positions but more suited to my posture. There really is no difference.
The tops are the same.
The Ramps are the same - that's where I spend most of my time as it is.
The hooks are like aerobar positioning but I can rest on my forearms for better relief.
The hoods are the same as bar end positioning, just without the hoods. If it matters one can bundle some bar tape there as a stop.
The drops I don't like because I prefer a more upright style but the forward tops stretch me out for aerodynamics in the same way. So I lose the drops which I don't like but get the hand relief from aerobars I do like. Of course YMMV and I think it's a bit of what one gets used to.
04-29-16, 02:15 PM
#53
George Krpan
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It seems that many people don't understand what drop bars are for or how to use them. They are the almost universal choice for long events such as PBP, 765 miles in 55-90 hours. In long events like that, comfort and being able to stay on the bike for very long periods is the number one issue. Simple math tells us that the 90 hour group averages 8.5 mph. Most only get 2 hours of sleep a night so their over-the-road average would be only 9.1. So drop bars aren't particularly for racing, though they're good for that, too.
For illustrations, simply google Images for "PBP handlebars." The first few images you'll probably see will be of Jan Heine, the publisher of Bicycle Quarterly. Note the many hand positions being used in the various images.
Hand positions: Lovely Bicycle!: Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
How to avoid hand pain: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post12953035
and note the exact hand positions that these women are using.
For illustrations, simply google Images for "PBP handlebars." The first few images you'll probably see will be of Jan Heine, the publisher of Bicycle Quarterly. Note the many hand positions being used in the various images.
Hand positions: Lovely Bicycle!: Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
How to avoid hand pain: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post12953035
and note the exact hand positions that these women are using.
04-29-16, 02:19 PM
#54
George Krpan
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Yep. By seat post I mean the pipe attached to the seat and not the seat tube it goes into. A very slight bend that just sets the seat back a couple of inches, which means I have to raise the post a bit to maintain the same height but the ratchet under the seat adjusts angle.
I looked at the LBS for a post with a set back to do the same thing but they came in quite expensive for what they were. I'm at work right now but will take a pic this weekend on my ride.
Bending drops would be interesting, sort of like wood chipper bars. I did do that to a set of old North Road bars to make moustache bars by putting a plank across them and driving my van on top but wouldn't recommend that
Apparently I have discovered there are actual tools that can perform such tasks (though the end result was fair)!
I looked at the LBS for a post with a set back to do the same thing but they came in quite expensive for what they were. I'm at work right now but will take a pic this weekend on my ride.
Bending drops would be interesting, sort of like wood chipper bars. I did do that to a set of old North Road bars to make moustache bars by putting a plank across them and driving my van on top but wouldn't recommend that
Apparently I have discovered there are actual tools that can perform such tasks (though the end result was fair)!
04-30-16, 12:20 AM
#55
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When I look for comfort I use a drop bar.
When I want a handy functional bar for my drunk bike I use a north road (or the equivalent). I would not dream however that I would use a north road for touring as at longer distances it's wrist killer. You can't keep your wrists straight with one wheres a drop bar allows more than one good position with absolute straight wrists.
And I guarantee you, if a jones bar offered an advantage in climbing someone would be using them at the top level. They do not however add anything because you know, physics. If you put in a certain amount of energy in the pedals you'll get a certain amount of forward movement. Waggling your body with the bar likely allows you to put more of your potential energy into the pedals /flexing the frame but you'll also be less efficient.
If you want to see about the leverage one can achieve with a drop bar, watch a track sprint. They don't even have gears so your theory about them being for shifters goes out the window. Because a drop bar offers a differnt direction for leverage. A wide bar allows for a side to side leverage which is hugely inefficient. A drop bar allows for a vertical leverage where you hokd the bars to keep yourself from being pushed up from the bike by pedaling. It doesn't look as cool, but it is the method the pro's use when going gets tight.
But power isn't really a touring issue is it?
04-30-16, 10:20 AM
#56
George Krpan
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For you.
For you.
When I look for comfort I use a drop bar.
When I want a handy functional bar for my drunk bike I use a north road (or the equivalent). I would not dream however that I would use a north road for touring as at longer distances it's wrist killer. You can't keep your wrists straight with one wheres a drop bar allows more than one good position with absolute straight wrists.
And I guarantee you, if a jones bar offered an advantage in climbing someone would be using them at the top level. They do not however add anything because you know, physics. If you put in a certain amount of energy in the pedals you'll get a certain amount of forward movement. Waggling your body with the bar likely allows you to put more of your potential energy into the pedals /flexing the frame but you'll also be less efficient.
If you want to see about the leverage one can achieve with a drop bar, watch a track sprint. They don't even have gears so your theory about them being for shifters goes out the window. Because a drop bar offers a differnt direction for leverage. A wide bar allows for a side to side leverage which is hugely inefficient. A drop bar allows for a vertical leverage where you hokd the bars to keep yourself from being pushed up from the bike by pedaling. It doesn't look as cool, but it is the method the pro's use when going gets tight.
But power isn't really a touring issue is it?
When I look for comfort I use a drop bar.
When I want a handy functional bar for my drunk bike I use a north road (or the equivalent). I would not dream however that I would use a north road for touring as at longer distances it's wrist killer. You can't keep your wrists straight with one wheres a drop bar allows more than one good position with absolute straight wrists.
And I guarantee you, if a jones bar offered an advantage in climbing someone would be using them at the top level. They do not however add anything because you know, physics. If you put in a certain amount of energy in the pedals you'll get a certain amount of forward movement. Waggling your body with the bar likely allows you to put more of your potential energy into the pedals /flexing the frame but you'll also be less efficient.
If you want to see about the leverage one can achieve with a drop bar, watch a track sprint. They don't even have gears so your theory about them being for shifters goes out the window. Because a drop bar offers a differnt direction for leverage. A wide bar allows for a side to side leverage which is hugely inefficient. A drop bar allows for a vertical leverage where you hokd the bars to keep yourself from being pushed up from the bike by pedaling. It doesn't look as cool, but it is the method the pro's use when going gets tight.
But power isn't really a touring issue is it?
04-30-16, 08:41 PM
#57
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When I raced track, mid'70s, I had Cinelli steel sprint bars with a very deep drop. Today, I use the Jones Loop for road and mountain.
04-30-16, 11:06 PM
#58
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Here's the pic of the seat post.
And a short video of my trekking/aeros doing a Century today to test it out.
I agree that drop bars do excel at assisting in generating crank power which is why they are seen on race bikes of all kinds but for touring cranking is the last thing I want to do.
And a short video of my trekking/aeros doing a Century today to test it out.
I agree that drop bars do excel at assisting in generating crank power which is why they are seen on race bikes of all kinds but for touring cranking is the last thing I want to do.
05-01-16, 09:38 AM
#59
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The seat post looks great.
Here's the pic of the seat post.
And a short video of my trekking/aeros doing a Century today to test it out.
I agree that drop bars do excel at assisting in generating crank power which is why they are seen on race bikes of all kinds but for touring cranking is the last thing I want to do.
And a short video of my trekking/aeros doing a Century today to test it out.
I agree that drop bars do excel at assisting in generating crank power which is why they are seen on race bikes of all kinds but for touring cranking is the last thing I want to do.
05-01-16, 10:34 AM
#60
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Saved a hundred bucks or so anyways.
At least now I can finesse the seat position better. Before I had to slam it back and just hope for the best. I'm quite keen to throw my Brooks on this bike again as previously I sat too far back on it and, while this seat is great for commuting to work, it is a little to uncomfortable on a long ride.
At least now I can finesse the seat position better. Before I had to slam it back and just hope for the best. I'm quite keen to throw my Brooks on this bike again as previously I sat too far back on it and, while this seat is great for commuting to work, it is a little to uncomfortable on a long ride.
05-01-16, 11:03 AM
#61
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: ))
Saved a hundred bucks or so anyways.
At least now I can finesse the seat position better. Before I had to slam it back and just hope for the best. I'm quite keen to throw my Brooks on this bike again as previously I sat too far back on it and, while this seat is great for commuting to work, it is a little to uncomfortable on a long ride.
At least now I can finesse the seat position better. Before I had to slam it back and just hope for the best. I'm quite keen to throw my Brooks on this bike again as previously I sat too far back on it and, while this seat is great for commuting to work, it is a little to uncomfortable on a long ride.
03-01-19, 08:22 PM
#63
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For me it is definitely drops. I do not like ergo or anatomic drops. I have become accustomed to compact bars. I am in the process of rebuilding an older classic steel frame bike and have Nitro classic drop handlebarship for it. I am anxious to try them aso I have not used classic drop in quite awhile. I have chronic back and shoulders issues that very much affect my flexibility. If they are not comfortable for me I am open to trying randonnouer and other flared type bars
03-02-19, 08:36 AM
#64
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For me it is definitely drops. I do not like ergo or anatomic drops. I have become accustomed to compact bars. I am in the process of rebuilding an older classic steel frame bike and have Nitro classic drop handlebarship for it. I am anxious to try them aso I have not used classic drop in quite awhile. I have chronic back and shoulders issues that very much affect my flexibility. If they are not comfortable for me I am open to trying randonnouer and other flared type bars
The shallow distance from tops to drops is very nice, and a high enough stem can make a very useful drops position. Your mileage will vary, but shallow bars, a high enough stem, and the drops flare make a real difference to drop bar versatility and comfort.
Check out the salsa site for comparing models.
03-02-19, 10:58 AM
#65
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I highly recommend the salsa series that flare out in the drops to varying degrees depending on model. I love the cowbell with its slight flare, 12 degrees I think, and normal hoods position.
The shallow distance from tops to drops is very nice, and a high enough stem can make a very useful drops position. Your mileage will vary, but shallow bars, a high enough stem, and the drops flare make a real difference to drop bar versatility and comfort.
Check out the salsa site for comparing models.
The shallow distance from tops to drops is very nice, and a high enough stem can make a very useful drops position. Your mileage will vary, but shallow bars, a high enough stem, and the drops flare make a real difference to drop bar versatility and comfort.
Check out the salsa site for comparing models.
03-02-19, 11:40 AM
#66
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the nice thing with the cowbells is that with a proper bar height to seat diff, I can ride in the drops for waaaay longer than in the past, and Im in my mid 50s now. Ive had trips with strong headwinds and have been in the drops for an appreciative long time, helpful with really bad head and side winds.
also, the prices are reasonable, cowbells are in the $50-60 range
would be best for you to be able to hold in hand the diff models with diff flare and possble hoods angled with the cowchipper ones etc, but not many stores have them.
good luck in any case
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