135mm wheel set problems
#1
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135mm wheel set problems
I guess its my own fault. I found a really light weight cyclocross CF frameset for a bargin. It has a 135mm rear spacing but I've found most of the 135mm wheelsets are built like tanks and I have no intention of riding in cyclocross races! I just like the geometry and that its CF and light.
So I have two options:
a) Find a 135mm road like wheelset (haven't found it as yet)
b) Some how fit a 130mm rear wheel in there.
I prefer b) as there are many buying options and all my ohter bikes have 130mm rear wheel spacing. Is it as simple as putting a space on the NDS spindle (assuming the axel is wide enough). I've also read that the wheelset needs strong lateral stiffness but I don't quite get why?
So I have two options:
a) Find a 135mm road like wheelset (haven't found it as yet)
b) Some how fit a 130mm rear wheel in there.
I prefer b) as there are many buying options and all my ohter bikes have 130mm rear wheel spacing. Is it as simple as putting a space on the NDS spindle (assuming the axel is wide enough). I've also read that the wheelset needs strong lateral stiffness but I don't quite get why?
#3
Really Old Senior Member
The best way would be to buy a 146mm axle & 5mm spacer.
However, if you recenter the existing axle with a 5mm spacer, you'll be "good enough".
Spacer on NDS.
Add just a bit more tension to the NDS spokes to pull the rim over 2.5mm to recenter.
All you need is a cone & spoke wrench.
However, if you recenter the existing axle with a 5mm spacer, you'll be "good enough".
Spacer on NDS.
Add just a bit more tension to the NDS spokes to pull the rim over 2.5mm to recenter.
All you need is a cone & spoke wrench.
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Carbon Fiber has some flex, but it doesn't like to be stressed. I'd build a wheel that you like that will fit.
There are multiple solutions.
There are multiple solutions.
- Build your dream wheel from scratch, or have someone else build it. In some cases one can do regular lacing patterns without using every spoke hole on the hub (2/3 holes?) if you can't find the hub you wish. Thus, lacing a 36 spoke wheel to 24 spokes.
- Choose a wheel with a full length threaded axle. Simply replace the axle and quick release with a longer version, add spacers, and redish if necessary. Generally you'll get a stronger wheel by putting all the spacers on the NDS side and redishing, although some have split spacers on both sides and not changed the dishing.
- Find a wheel that takes end caps, and the manufacturer supplies both 130mm and 135mm endcaps. Then redish as above.
#5
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If you are going to buy a wheel, why buy one that isn't already 135? There must be some out there that are light and not "built like tanks". And if you can't find one, build one rather than buying a 130 and redishing it, which is essentially rebuilding it, except that now you've increased the tension on spokes that were already properly tensioned. If you already had a 130 wheel it may make sense to do that but not if you are buying. Just because your other bikes have 130 spacing doesn't mean you shouldn't have a purpose built/bought wheel for this one.
After taking a quick look at wheels, you have to also consider rim vs. disc brakes. A 130 road bike is likely to have rim brakes but a 135 cx bike is likely to have disc. That right there would kill any compatibility.
After taking a quick look at wheels, you have to also consider rim vs. disc brakes. A 130 road bike is likely to have rim brakes but a 135 cx bike is likely to have disc. That right there would kill any compatibility.
Last edited by zacster; 11-21-18 at 05:38 AM.
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Hard to search for 135mm wheels
The problem is none of the websites (CRC, nashbar, Jenson etc.) have the ability to filter search to 135mm wheelsets. It's bizzare. You can filter tire searches even stem searches but not wheels!
If you are going to buy a wheel, why buy one that isn't already 135? There must be some out there that are light and not "built like tanks". And if you can't find one, build one rather than buying a 130 and redishing it, which is essentially rebuilding it, except that now you've increased the tension on spokes that were already properly tensioned. If you already had a 130 wheel it may make sense to do that but not if you are buying. Just because your other bikes have 130 spacing doesn't mean you shouldn't have a purpose built/bought wheel for this one.
After taking a quick look at wheels, you have to also consider rim vs. disc brakes. A 130 road bike is likely to have rim brakes but a 135 cx bike is likely to have disc. That right there would kill any compatibility.
After taking a quick look at wheels, you have to also consider rim vs. disc brakes. A 130 road bike is likely to have rim brakes but a 135 cx bike is likely to have disc. That right there would kill any compatibility.
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https://www.speedgearbike.com/
I've bought 2 wheelsets here already and one was 135 rear spacing laced to Velocity Aileron wheels.
#9
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It was Jenson where I did the filter, under "Rear Axle Type" in the road wheels category.
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I'm pretty certain there are several sites out there that sell 135mm wheels built around:
KinLin XC 270s
Velocity Aileron's
Pacenti SL23s?
There's actually a market for light weight 100mm / 135mm cross wheelsets.
=8-)
KinLin XC 270s
Velocity Aileron's
Pacenti SL23s?
There's actually a market for light weight 100mm / 135mm cross wheelsets.
=8-)
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#11
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Im assuming its a QR and not TA?
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Yeah, but it doesn't work
This query should select rim and qr 135mm. It lists a wonderful wheelset with powertap, but alas its a 130mm rear spacing.
In fact, the query returns back 3 wheelsets and NONE are 135mm spacing! So, what's wrong with using a longer axel and spacers?
https://www.jensonusa.com/Wheels?BrakeType=Rim&RearAxletype=135mm+QR
In fact, the query returns back 3 wheelsets and NONE are 135mm spacing! So, what's wrong with using a longer axel and spacers?
https://www.jensonusa.com/Wheels?BrakeType=Rim&RearAxletype=135mm+QR
Last edited by raria; 11-23-18 at 09:40 AM.
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__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#17
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Thanks but they are disc brakes
It seems the combination of:
1) QR
2) 135mm spacing
3) Rim based braking
is a very rare combination. But if you replace 2) with 130mm that's your vast majority of bikes.
1) QR
2) 135mm spacing
3) Rim based braking
is a very rare combination. But if you replace 2) with 130mm that's your vast majority of bikes.
#18
Non omnino gravis
DT Swiss used to make several rear hubs in 135mm non-disc, but it doesn't seem like they do anymore. Just use a disc hub with a rim brake hoop. Everything is going to disc, so finding a 135 non-disc hub isn't worth the effort. Get a hub with Centerlock, no one will even notice. Or as this guy said more succinctly,
#19
Banned
Say what you want rather than expect your mind being read?
QBP does this too.. So, tell your LBS What you want Hub, Rim, Spokes ,
and lace pattern ,
and maybe put down a deposit..
(QBP is all paid in advance, before shipping, to their retailers ..
Say, ask for a Shimano steel axle rear hub, you can replace just the axle,
and have the truing touched up to suit the added spacer on the left end..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-23-18 at 02:05 PM.
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I'm very happy with my Reynolds Assault carbon wheels for disc. They are 135 spacing, and 41mm high. The bike came with 55mm high Token wheels which were really wind sensitive. Token and Reynolds make several types of 135 spacing disc specific wheels. The Tokens have a carbon rim track, as well as disc mounts, the Reynolds are disc only.
These are the Reynolds. A buddy of mine has HED Ardennes with aluminum rims on the same type of bike, also 135 spacing,
These are the Reynolds. A buddy of mine has HED Ardennes with aluminum rims on the same type of bike, also 135 spacing,
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As said above, find a hub that has convertible end caps, then pick up end caps for 135mm. For the price of hubs these days, you might look at a PowerTap G3 road hub, then pick up a non-drive side end cap. It was about $5 when I did my mountain bike. I then laced it to a 26 inch Velocity Atlas rim. But you can do any rims you want of course.
IIRC DT350's can also be converted with end caps as well, but I might be mistaken.
You could also just pick up any rim you want and have your current hubs built into those.
Always options.
IIRC DT350's can also be converted with end caps as well, but I might be mistaken.
You could also just pick up any rim you want and have your current hubs built into those.
Always options.