FlashBazbo

I'm a big fan of the Specialized Tarmac, but . . . for 2012, they only offer OSBB bottom brackets and concealed cables. I don't like the added maintenance that both require. (And notice that I almost avoided talking about the stupid hybrid, almost-compact gearing across almost the whole product line.) More expense and bother without any performance advantage.

At any rate . . . whether you guzzle the OSBB KoolAid or not . . . does any manufacturer offer a legimate race-worthy 2012 bike with English-threaded bottom bracket?

Right Said Fred

I was looking at a 2011 BMC Road Racer this week with a threaded BB. But it has internal cables.

sideshow_bob

I just bought a Stevens SLR that is BSA, but like the BMC has internal cables. In my own experience internal cables don't require additional maintenance, just when you need to work on it, it's a bit tricky.

Minion1

Pinarellos come with threaded BBs. Also Deda's frames, which end up being badged as other brands, come with threaded BBs. Probably Italian threading, and probably not that common in the US.

ericm979

Cervelo's RS still uses BSA threaded BBs.

FlashBazbo

It has to be a brand that can make me forget the sweet handling of my beloved Tarmac. With Pinarello, we may have a winner!

tcwayne

They make a sleeve that goes into a Specialized OSBB that enables you to use a threaded BB with Italian threads. Shimano makes an Italian threaded BB that works with a standard crank.

I <3 Robots

You can always run an adapter sleeve. Thats what I did on my Cannondale to use a standard SRAM Red crank.

Trucker Dan

Colnagos have english bbs. Their chinese built monocoque frames aren't priced as crazy as their lugged frames.

lazerzxr

My C59 has an English threaded BB

sqharaway

Have you tried getting a 2011 Tarmac? Perhaps you could even get a nice discount on the frameset?

revchuck 

How about a Ridley Orion?

rbart4506

That's my plan

Campag4life

Flash...eventually we all will have to drink the BB30 koolaid. Guess What? The guys on the internet that squack about them don't know what they are doing. They are simple to set up.
That said, unless you can't stand internal cable routing, get a '12 Tarmac and sleeve it with a Sram sleeve and run your blasted BSA crank.
I wouldn't tho.
I have a Roubaix Pro frameset on order from Specialized which btw has a threaded BB...at least on Specialized website. I have also seen them on the web with OSBB. Either way, it wouldn't keep me from riding that frame next year..but if OSBB, I will sell my Campy UT and get a BB30 specific crank. Frame decision trumps BB type.
If you are a racer, Tarmac SL4>SL3.

FlashBazbo

Campag, I've got an OSBB frameset. Counting the methods for setup recommended by SRAM and Specialized, we have installed the BB FIVE different ways. We have used two different assembly lubes and three different Loctite products. The creaks leave for a few days, but always return. Extremely frustrating.

Bad thing . . . English threaded BBs are easy to install and are near zero maintenance items. If I'm forced to go OSBB by Specialized, I will switch brands. If all brands go OSBB, I won't buy another new bike. In part, I'm into cycling to AVOID the niggling hassles of everyday life. I'm tired of paying the consequences of the bike industry's BB power play. In fact, with all the OSBB hassles, I've taken up running again. If I get a bad running shoe, those manufacturers make it right!

Campag4life

Flash...with respect, five different ways is no replacement for the right way.
Sadly, many are frustrated with BB30. Contrast that with thousands of satisfied customers.
Maybe I can help. What crank are you using? What bearings are you using...brand...ABEC rating etc. Have you replaced the bearings?
A BB30 is simple. If you properly installed the bearings with Loctite 640 per Specialized specification and the press was all the way to snap rings ensure proper bedding...and you waited over night for the Loctite 640 to set and you still have creaking then:
- You have insufficient axial preload in your crankset
- You have bad aka noisey bearings. Bad bearings make noise in any BB. ABEC-1 BB30 bearings are crap right out of the box.
- the noise you have is unrelated to the BB...could be chainring to spider...pedal to cranks...seatpost etc.

There are very few moving parts with BB-30.
Above is your roadmap. Please explain what bearings you tried and if you replaced them and what method you used to set up adequate axial preload and what Crank you installed on your Tarmac.

PS: if you are replacing your Tarmac because you can't quiet the OSBB, you shouldn't. Instead, take it on as a learning opportunity. BB30 and PF-30 on Specialized S-works is the future and for all top road bikes.

FlashBazbo

Campag, we've done it all. Tried SRAM's metal and ceramic BB bearings. Preload set using a variety of shim stacks and washers. Again, we've used multiple different Loctite products (because Specialized's recommendation keeps changing - I must not be the only one with repetitive, chronic problems). We changed the pedals. We disassembled, cleaned, greased, and re-torqued the chainrings. Three times, we disassembled, cleaned, greased, and re-torqued the headset, stem and bar. Twice, we disassembled, cleaned, etc. the seatpost and saddle.

I suppose if tinkering with my bike were my hobby, I would LOVE this bike! Sadly, I'm a cyclist. I value bikes that perform reliably without requiring trips to the dealer. I would rather ride a bike than work on it. I've had more hassles with this bike than with all the bikes I've owned, combined, to this point. when it works, OSBB works just as well as threaded external BB systems. Unfortunately, for me, it has taken away the pleasure of owning a fine bicycle.

If this really is the future of cycling, count me out. Running is cheaper, less hassle, and more comfortable in the Winter months.

Grasschopper

I rode my Marin Mill Valley this past weekend...one and a half hours of creaking hell with every pedal stroke.

68mm English threaded bb...Ultegra 6500 Hollowtech II. Every threaded BB I ever used before the newer external cup BB systems has creaked at some point in the first month or two and then again down the road. All I have to do is tear it down, clean and grease everything but I love how everyone says this style of BB never has creaks.

Campag4life

It sounds like you do know what you are doing Flash which I might add is rare for somebody to continue to struggle with BB30.
Summary then:
You have a bad frame. Has to be. How could it be bad? The only source for creak would have to be emanating from the inserted alloy cups that are molded into the carbon shell. There is no other place for a click to emanate from. Bearings absolutely can't click if bearings are good, properly loctited to the alloy cups with adequate thrust pressure which preloads inner and outer races and bearing balls. The inserted alloy cups in your BB have to be shifting causing a creak in your carbon shell. I will add, this is extraordinarily rare.
You can extrapolate because you have owned one BB30 bike that BB30 is a bad design but it isn't and why virtually all top bike manufacturers have released it in one form or another. I understand your frustration however.
Think about what a BB30 is for a second. What is the difference between BB30 and threaded BSA? Threads. What do threads do that Loctite can't? Nothing. They both solve the same issue...address small lateral spindle forces created by the pedal stroke. Trek btw released their version of BB30 with std size OB bearings 'without even a press fit or loctite'. Although I disagree with this practice, if adequate pre-load, the bearings can't creak either...crank preload keeps bearings planted to the bottom of their respective bores. Loctite + press simply ensures the bearings can't creak to the alloy cups. Most threaded OB BB's have slip fit bearings...my Campy UT does.

To summarize...if the disciplines you described have been adequately adhered to which sounds like they have...then your issue is:
Bad crank...arm is creaking at spindle interface.
Bad frame aka BB30 alloy cups insert molded into the carbon shell are shifting due to pedal forces and hence creaking...manufacturing defect which is quite separate from BB30 being universally a poor design.

If mine, I would try a different crank first..buy cheap on ebay and resell....or borrow one from a friend or lbs to try.
If you bought the frame from your lbs and have a warranty, try to warranty the frame.

If you are have had enough...then ebay your frame and buy another frameset. You could also move to a S-works frame which is PF30 with no opportunity for creaking alloy cups within the carbon shell. A PF-30 doesn't have them.

Campag4life

Campy UT's are also known for copious amounts of creaking. Many different crank set ups creak as you well state.
Tear down + grease will typically quiet them. Biggest factor that most get wrong which Ultegra excels at...preload adjustment. Preload is what quiets bearings. With Hollowtech II...the preload adjustment is second to none...no shims required....simple little plastic wheel during crank arm installation.

FlashBazbo

Add this to your knowledge base, campag: Specialized's 2011 OSBB (different than their also-problematic 2010 version) has no alloy fixtures in the frameset BB housing - nor any snap rings. The 2011 uses Delrin cups pressed directly into the carbon fiber housing. The bearings are then pressed into the Delrin cups. So, you have TWO squeak interfaces per side rather than just one.

Typical of this carnival act, at one point Specialized recommended red Loctite for the Delrin/frameset interface and assembly grease only (NO LOCTITE PERMITTED) on the bearing/Delrin interface. The latest instructions I have call for yellow Loctite on the bearing/Delrin interface! I've spent more money on multiple colors of Loctite this year than I have on tires!

If OSBB on this frame only involved pressing and Loctiting bearings into fitted metal fixtures, I might agree with your comparison with threaded systems. Threads would still provide a surface-area advantage, but whether that's relevant at bike crank load factors is an argument for another day. With the Delrin cup setup, there's a much bigger advantage to threads.

Campag4life

Flash...you need to provide more information then. Pictures would also help. What frame do you have?...PF-30 with thru bore hole in virgin carbon shell...or alloy inserted cups aka BB30?
Second...what crank mfr and model do you have?

Grasschopper

Sorry my bad...not Hollowtech II...Octalink, internal cups splined cranks.

Grasschopper

The 2011 OSBB is PF-30.

Campag4life

Maybe for Tarmacs. Where does it say the OP has a 2011?
PF-30 changes the landscape and should be for the better.
Key is...loctite bearings to delrin cups as mentioned...AND ensure there is adequate press between delrin cup and BB.
What did you do there OP? Did you apply any product between delrin cup and thru bore carbon shell?
Different schools here. You can try grease to mitigate creaking...or go for a more solid connection and clean each with alcohol.
Some use Teflon tape. Even with micro lateral shifting of the cups in the BB, with teflon tape, shear force is reduced even though press is increased reducing tendency for creak. There is no guarantee the cups themselves are good either. Were they replaced?