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Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling Do you enjoy centuries, double centuries, brevets, randonnees, and 24-hour time trials? Share ride reports, and exchange training, equipment, and nutrition information specific to long distance cycling. This isn't for tours, this is for endurance events cycling

Your Dream Rando Rig

Old 07-07-20, 11:08 PM
  #51  
Drew Eckhardt 
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
No USB charger on the dynohub? If you have the dynohub, the charger is not a big addition.
You really want a USB charger to run your GPS, especially as its battery life shrinks from a claimed 18+ hours due to backlight, wear, software update....
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Old 07-07-20, 11:12 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by downtube42 View Post
Winter, recovering from an injury. Nothing much else to do but dream...

Wahoo Element GPS
The ELEMNT was not my choice for riding anywhere unfamiliar.
- The maps have no street names and cannot be panned if you want to reroute
- There's no equivalent of Garmin's turn guidance highlighting the correct choice when there are 2-3 roads coming together in the same place
- There's no navigation to points of interest like water sources

I ended up with a refurbished Edge 800 after returning the Edge 820 for crashing following courses through roundabouts after returning the ELEMNT for functionality.

1x, 2x, or 3x, tending toward 2x
Triple, so you can have low gears and pleasant spacing.
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Old 07-08-20, 04:48 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
The ELEMNT was not my choice for riding anywhere unfamiliar.
- The maps have no street names and cannot be panned if you want to reroute
- There's no equivalent of Garmin's turn guidance highlighting the correct choice when there are 2-3 roads coming together in the same place
- There's no navigation to points of interest like water sources

I ended up with a refurbished Edge 800 after returning the Edge 820 for crashing following courses through roundabouts after returning the ELEMNT for functionality.

Triple, so you can have low gears and pleasant spacing.
The wahoo bolt isn't sold or advertised as a unit that does any sort of on-the-fly navigating. Routes on the wahoo made with rwgps or koomoot have turn-by-turn navigation with the street names, assuming whoever made the route bothers to review to cuesheet. The last thing that little map needs is street names cluttering up the screen... IMO it's almost the perfect little unit for doing brevets. On the map screen with the breadcrumb it's pretty easy to figure out 5-point intersections and roundabouts. I much prefer to use my phone if I have to do any sort of re-routing, it's so much easier to actually see the route and maps as well make changes and check out alternative route ideas on a decent sized screen. With a data connection the wahoo app will make a route and send it to the head unit. Even without a data connection something like maps.me seems much easier to use than playing around with a head unit.

I like and use a triple on my rando bike but it's getting harder to find nice cranks for a decent price, and shifters are either downtube or tiagra/sora, unless one goes campagnolo.

What do you use for a dyno based charger? The ones I looked at a few years ago seem kind of expensive, esp. since I already have a nice B&M light, I didn't want to buy another light with the usb plug built in, as convenient as that sounds. I've done alright carrying a lipstick sized battery for brevets.
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Old 07-08-20, 05:41 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by clasher View Post
...
I like and use a triple on my rando bike but it's getting harder to find nice cranks for a decent price, and shifters are either downtube or tiagra/sora, unless one goes campagnolo.
....
Or bar end shifters. I use bar end shifters on two touring bikes, front is friction instead of indexed. It does not take long to get used to using the front friction bar end with a triple.

I have never seen anyone use a bar end front with brifter rear, but there is no reason you could not do that. My rando bike has a brifter rear and downtube friction front shifter. The downtube shifter started as a temporary measure while I thought about what I wanted for permanent use, but now that I have had the friction downtube shifter for five years, it is slowly becoming permanent.
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Old 07-08-20, 07:52 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by clasher View Post
I like and use a triple on my rando bike but it's getting harder to find nice cranks for a decent price, and shifters are either downtube or tiagra/sora, unless one goes campagnolo.
Nice looking used triples are fairly abundant in 130/74mm BCD or 135/74 for Campagnolo. 110/74mm is more difficult to find - I've been searching for a Stronglight Fission (preferably Titane) for years.

Shimano has XTR Di2 triple crank front derailleurs.

I run 2010-2014 Campagnolo Ultrashift. While new shifters are unavailable, they still sell replacement shift mechanisms.

Someone used to make an inline cable housing mechanism that provided a separate lever for shifting between middle and small ring while otherwise using a double brifter.

What do you use for a dyno based charger? The ones I looked at a few years ago seem kind of expensive, esp. since I already have a nice B&M light, I didn't want to buy another light with the usb plug built in, as convenient as that sounds. I've done alright carrying a lipstick sized battery for brevets.
I paid $54 for my B&M USB-Werk including a small cache battery, ordered direct from Germany.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-08-20 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 07-08-20, 09:00 AM
  #56  
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I am convinced a subcompact double crank is the way to go on a rando bike. I guess because I know maybe 10 randonneurs that can actually push a 53-11 for any length of time. A 46-11 is a really tall gear. With 46 big chain ring, I can keep it in the big chainring for a considerable portion of a ride. A 28-32 is a very low gear and an 11-32 cassette is reasonably compact with gear jumps that aren't that bad.

I was riding with someone in the middle of the night and his triple stopped shifting. Usually, I would be more interested in troubleshooting, but I told him to choose a chainring and sort it out later. The interesting thing I saw on PBP was that the control bike shops couldn't help with 11 speed.
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Old 07-08-20, 12:13 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
I paid $54 for my B&M USB-Werk including a small cache battery, ordered direct from Germany.
Somehow I missed hearing about this, thanks!

Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
I am convinced a subcompact double crank is the way to go on a rando bike. I guess because I know maybe 10 randonneurs that can actually push a 53-11 for any length of time. A 46-11 is a really tall gear. With 46 big chain ring, I can keep it in the big chainring for a considerable portion of a ride. A 28-32 is a very low gear and an 11-32 cassette is reasonably compact with gear jumps that aren't that bad.
I'd go 46/30 or 48/32 for my next rando bike esp. with 11 speed stuff. I have a 50/39/30 right now and a 12-30 cassette, so many gears to choose from and 30-30 combo is low enough for me now, though I used to 26 inner but experienced shifter troubles. Sadly though, two of my bikes with triples have both had the left shifters recently die on me. One is definitely a problem that can't be fixed with a solvent flush and the other one I'm not sure what is wrong with it, but it's got similar symptoms... I just put a downtube shifter on that bike for now, that took a bit of getting used to. I'm not sure what I am going to do about fixing that bike, might have to buy some sora brifters for it!
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Old 07-10-20, 08:20 AM
  #58  
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I believe the last time we rode together was on a flèche that’s Toshi captained in Ohio. I was riding a Soma Double Cross. & you were riding your pre Volae recumbent. Alex Meade (the builder) and I we’re still haggling over details Of this bike at that point!


Originally Posted by downtube42 View Post
Pretty.

I don't think I've seen this bike. It's been a while since we rode together. Maybe 5 years?
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Old 07-11-20, 01:13 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by katsup View Post
Nice bike, this is mine.


Note that the front steel fork doesn't have mounting points so you'll need clamps. For brakes, I am using Juin Tech R1 Cable / Hydro and really like them.

Edit: To clarify, the steel fork doesn't have mid fork mounts.
Nice. Yes obviously you're right about the fork.

Things are shaping up, either acquired, ordered, or in process...

Fork: Fog cutter cro-mo (QR dropouts)
Rear hub: White Industries XMR QR 135 Shimano (silver)
Front hub: SP PD-8 dynohub (silver)
Rims: Stans 2017 Grail X
Crankset: IRD 46/30 square taper (silver, and gorgeous IMO)
Brakes: TRP HY/RD cable actuated hydraulic (black)
FD is undecided but now that I've picked the crankset I can work on that.
Cassette gearing and RD choice to follow. I'm thinking 11-28 will be low enough.
Fenders are TBD. Soma's website says matching fenders are available, but no response to my emails thus far.
Tires I'm thinking Rene Herse Barlow Pass


Meanwhile I'm having a heck of a time finding a place to face and chase the BB and face the head tube. Shops are slammed, the co-ops are closed. I had an appointment today at one shop, arrived to find it closed due to illness. I have contacted a local frame builder, so we'll see.
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Old 07-15-20, 08:30 PM
  #60  
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Rims are in hand.
105 FD is in hand. Spec says it can handle a 16t delta, and that's what I have.
Looking at 105 5800 RDs. I'd like to have silver, but they appear to be vaporware. Would look nice with the hubs, and crank. Still waffling on short cage which gets me 30-28, or medium cage for up to 30-32. My local cycling bud tells me 30-28 will get me up any grade, but he's 28 years old and 140 pounds, whilst I'm 59/192. Kids.
Next up: spokes. Wheel build commences as soon as hubs and spokes are in.

Still working on stem, seatpost, chain, fenders, cassette, seat clamp, tires, spokes.

Unfortunately I can't do any building until I find someone to face & chase, unless I decide to skip it.
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Old 07-16-20, 04:00 AM
  #61  
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I have never bothered to face and chase a frame, but I looked at the frames first and I can't look at your frame.

I have a 30T chainring for a granny gear on my rando bike triple, I am a lot happier with a 11/32 cassette than I would be with an 11/28. But then I am seven years older than you.

Cage length, I have never bought a shorter cage length when I had a choice of lengths and I never regretted that.

ADDENDUM ADDED A DAY LATER:

If you are really thinking about an 11-28 cassette, get a derailleur and enough chain links for a 32, but install the 11-28. Then a few months to a year later when you change your mind and want the 11-32, you only have to swap the cassette.

Last edited by Tourist in MSN; 07-17-20 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 07-16-20, 07:24 AM
  #62  
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I think you can get an r7000 rear derailleur in silver, 5800 isn't the most current 11 speed 105 group. Everything I've read says 5800 shifters will work fine with the r7000 derailleurs, plus the shadow design looks pretty cool IMO. I'd go with a long cage and 11-30 or 11-32 cassette, I run 1:1 on my rando rig and used to run lower gears when I was heavier, still could use lower gears once in a blue moon.
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Old 07-16-20, 11:48 AM
  #63  
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I guess I would skip facing for now. But isn't there an effbuilder you can hit up to do it?
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Old 07-16-20, 09:48 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by downtube42 View Post
Rims are in hand.
105 FD is in hand. Spec says it can handle a 16t delta, and that's what I have.
Looking at 105 5800 RDs. I'd like to have silver, but they appear to be vaporware. Would look nice with the hubs, and crank.
I have a silver 105 RD-R7000-GS on one of my bikes. It looks more grey than silver to me, but I take that over anodized black any day. The R7000-GS handles up to 34T vs. 32T on the 105 GS and the Shimano 34T 11 speed road cassettes are compatible with 10 speed hubs.

Originally Posted by downtube42 View Post
]Still waffling on short cage which gets me 30-28, or medium cage for up to 30-32. My local cycling bud tells me 30-28 will get me up any grade, but he's 28 years old and 140 pounds, whilst I'm 59/192. Kids.
IMHO, short cage derailleurs are for flat races, mid cage and long cage are for everybody else.

A mid-cage GS is not meant for use with a max cog smaller than 28, but you're not seriously thinking about an 11-25 cassette, are you? Nobody I ever rode with has ever complained about having low gears that they never use. OTOH many have gotten off the bike with leg cramps because they lacked low enough gears on steep climbs while I spun up the hill seated in my low gear. It's better for your knees too.

I love my 26-32 lowest gear (Sugino compact plus 42/26 + 11-32 cassette with Ultegra 11 speed shifting).
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Old 07-17-20, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by joewein View Post
I have a silver 105 RD-R7000-GS on one of my bikes. It looks more grey than silver to me, but I take that over anodized black any day. The R7000-GS handles up to 34T vs. 32T on the 105 GS and the Shimano 34T 11 speed road cassettes are compatible with 10 speed hubs.



IMHO, short cage derailleurs are for flat races, mid cage and long cage are for everybody else.

A mid-cage GS is not meant for use with a max cog smaller than 28, but you're not seriously thinking about an 11-25 cassette, are you? Nobody I ever rode with has ever complained about having low gears that they never use. OTOH many have gotten off the bike with leg cramps because they lacked low enough gears on steep climbs while I spun up the hill seated in my low gear. It's better for your knees too.

I love my 26-32 lowest gear (Sugino compact plus 42/26 + 11-32 cassette with Ultegra 11 speed shifting).
Coincidentally, I ordered a gray RD-R7000 last night. With the short cage I was definitely going for 11-28, giving me a 30-28 combo, but now I'll likely go with an 11-30 with options for lower in the future. I'm not thinking of gearing I'll want when out for a 30 mile jaunt, but what I'm going to want 3 days into a 1200k when faced with a long steep grade.
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Old 07-17-20, 09:15 PM
  #66  
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With R7000, either the SS or the GS would handle a largest sprocket of 30T, but for SS it would be up to 23T-30T whereas for GS it would be 30T-34T.

For 5800 it was 23T-28T for SS and 28T-32T for GS.
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Old 07-19-20, 08:18 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by dim View Post
It took me over 4 years of searching to find a 1980's Miyata 1000 in my size

I found one in May from a seller in Germany .... took several emails to convince him to ship it to the UK

Bike is in mint condition and was his late father's who bought it brand new, was very nervous of riding with drop bars, so stored it indoors for 44 years

I'm still changing things and so far I've done the following:

HED Belgium Plus rims (tubeless rims), SON 28 Dynamo hub, Royce rear hub and am currently using Continental GP 5000 TL (tubeless tyres in 32mm wide)

Honjo hammered fenders which will allow me to use tyres up to 38mm wide

Brooks Cambium C17 Carved saddle

3 Nitto stainless steel bottle cages

MTB clipless pedals

Japanese Crane Suzu brass bell

Supernova front and rear dynamo lights (I need to change the front Supernova E3 triple light to the Supernova E3 Pro light as the triple is way too bright for oncoming cars (it has a symetrical light beam)

I've bought the Tubus Cosmo stainless steel back rack

Still to buy the Tubus stainless front rack

Still to buy 4 Ortlieb bags (I have the full set of Miss Grape bikepacking bags for when I want to travel lighter without the pannier bags)

still to buy the Sinewave Revolution powerbank charger

still to buy a secondary front USB light such as a Lupine ... I have a Cygolite Hotshot pro 200 as a rear backup

then I think I'm done .... my first tour will be in May/June 2020 along a part of the Wild Atlantic way in Ireland (fishing/camping where possible plus some B&B inbetween) .... I'm using this bike as my daily commuter and will also use it for some Audax rides

I still have all the original parts (including the original Miyata Radial tyres), original Miyata pedals, mirror etc should I wish to enter L'Eroica events

here's a pic from a while back with the original miyata rack (It came with the original Miyata front and rear racks but they are not as strong as Tubus)







If I were to buy a newer bike, I'd be looking very closely at something like a Mason Bokeh with disc brakes
Pretty fantastic. Have a current update? Also, you say your size, but that's quite a seat post, any reasoning or just your preferred setup?
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Old 07-20-20, 11:11 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself View Post
Pretty fantastic. Have a current update? Also, you say your size, but that's quite a seat post, any reasoning or just your preferred setup?
thanks .... touring to Ireland was put on hold, due to Covid19 ....

I normally ride a 52-53cm roadbike, but the Miyata 1000 has different geometry, as the top tube is longer than normal bikes. So, when buying one, you need to use the top tube length as your main dimension when sizing. My Miyata is a 50cm

Soon after I bought the bike, I had a professional bike fit done where you are linked to a computer with diodes placed all over your body .... you are connected to a computer, then pedal....before the bike fit you tell the person what sort of riding you are doing (TT, Racing, touring, long distance etc etc )

you appear on a big tv screen as a skeleton pedalling, and the computer analizes all the angles of your body parts (back angle, arm angles, leg angles etc etc ) and the ones that are not good are highlighted in red ...

the guy who does the analasis then adjusts your bike until all the angles are correct and display as green. Even setting your cleats takes half an hour (I needed insoles in my shoes)

as the bike appears in the photo, is the result from the computer analasis and the bike has been set for long distance riding with hands on the hoods

after the session, the bike felt a bit wierd, as I had set it up differently .... after a few weeks, it's super comfy for long distance..... I paid £200 (approx 250 USD) .... money very well spent IMHO and I will eventually have my Trek Emonda set up aswell

this is the bike fit I had: (I'm 5'7" and have a 28 inch inseam)

https://primocycles.co.uk/bike-fitting-2/
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Old 08-08-20, 11:13 PM
  #69  
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First ride, about six flat miles. After a few tweaks I went out for a hilly 12 mile ride before dinner. So nice; I set three Strava PRs in my excitement. Reach is a little longer than my previous bike; the bars a bit lower and significantly wider. That's all intentional; we'll see how it goes. I plan to ride a 100k tomorrow - that will tell me a lot about fit.

Tires are Gravelking slicks, 38mm, 45psi. My first tubeless setup, it was pretty straightforward. Love the ride so far.
Matching fenders from Soma are on order. Those will go on in the fall.
Silver bottle holders are also on order. For now I'll use jersey pockets for bottles.
Bar endplugs are on order. French flag pattern, as I hope this bike goes with me to PBP 2023.
No rack decision yet. Still considering baggage options.
The steerer won't be cut down until I'm confident in the fit. Final spacers will be silver, as will the final stem, seatpost and clamp.
The TRP Hy Rd cable actuated hydraulic brakes take a lot of lever travel before engaging, by design. That will take getting used to but I think they'll be great.
Headset was supposed to be silver but I ordered wrong. I don't care for the look, but I'll probably live with it.
Also no lights yet. If this truly becomes my rando rig, I'll pull the dynolights off the recumbent.
I don't have my tubeless flat repair sorted out. In the world of tubes I'll carry one tube, patch kit, and pump while JRA, and three tubes, patch kit, one tire, and pump on brevets.
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Old 08-09-20, 08:28 AM
  #70  
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I keep meaning to get a plug system for my tubeless bikes. So far I just carry a bottle of sealant and a valve tool in addition to a tube.

No fenders?
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Old 08-09-20, 10:12 AM
  #71  
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Good call on waiting to cut steerer tube. You can always make it shorter, but can't make them longer. When I did cut it on one of my bikes, I intentionally left it a bit long. And then cut it again, also leaving it a bit long. The third and final cut was a couple years after I built up the bike.

If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.

Nice looking bike.
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Old 08-09-20, 01:36 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
I keep meaning to get a plug system for my tubeless bikes. So far I just carry a bottle of sealant and a valve tool in addition to a tube.

No fenders?
​​​​​Matching fenders are on order. I'll install those when the rains come in the fall.
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Old 08-09-20, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
Good call on waiting to cut steerer tube. You can always make it shorter, but can't make them longer. When I did cut it on one of my bikes, I intentionally left it a bit long. And then cut it again, also leaving it a bit long. The third and final cut was a couple years after I built up the bike.

If you flip the stem so it is closer to horizontal, you can leave the steerer a bit longer and avoid it being unsightly, thus if years from now you wanted the bars up higher, you could raise it at that time by flipping the stem again.

Nice looking bike.
Good idea about the stem, I didn't think of that.

Thanks, I think it's gorgeous 😀
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Old 10-22-20, 11:31 PM
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​​​​​​Almost the final form. After the world comes back I'll get a pro fit, and the final seatpost and stem will be silver.
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Old 10-23-20, 07:39 AM
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I like the matching fenders and mudflaps. I always wanted to do that.
Maybe next time I get a bike powder coated
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