Move saddle back or get longer stem?
#26
Word.
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Rural New England
Posts: 232
Bikes: Surly Disc Trucker, Orbea Oiz XCountry Bike, Specialized Roubaix, Borealis Echo Fat Bike for Winter, many others out in the barn.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Liked 99 Times
in
51 Posts
I would not consider changing a stem to address a seat position issue. They are two different matters. If you find yourself moving back on the saddle, it's probably actually becasue your saddle isn't behind the bottom bracket in correct proportion to the length of your femurs.
Not sure if it's been mentioned here yet, but the B17 has no actual aft adjustability. Due to the shape of the rails, the center line of the seat clamp cannot intersect the saddle anywhere ahead of center. The saddle can only be neutral or forward and cannot be slid back behind center..
I also have my B17 on a VO setback post and it still won't adjust back as far as a normal saddle. I end up sitting on the rear rivets a bit. It works for me, but it's sub-optimal for sure.
Not sure if it's been mentioned here yet, but the B17 has no actual aft adjustability. Due to the shape of the rails, the center line of the seat clamp cannot intersect the saddle anywhere ahead of center. The saddle can only be neutral or forward and cannot be slid back behind center..
I also have my B17 on a VO setback post and it still won't adjust back as far as a normal saddle. I end up sitting on the rear rivets a bit. It works for me, but it's sub-optimal for sure.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 6,016
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1814 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 923 Times
in
569 Posts
Get the saddle under your butt- that's what it's there for. Where the butt goes is dependent on overall position, but that is already established.
Fuss with the front end after.
Fuss with the front end after.
#28
Senior Member
I've been a Vet for longer than I can now remember but I wouldn't consider myself a low power user and I doubt many of Steve Hogg's clientele are low power users. I believe its principles lie not only in achieving body weight balance over the bottom bracket but also an equal balance of muscle recruitment.
For road racing I am balanced in what I would say is a neutral position (although my saddle is set quite far forward compared to most it's only 5mm back from the UCI limit) and as such I can scoot a little further back and use the reserves in my glutes for riding in the pack or if I need to hammer it I can scoot forward and rely on quad power. If the 'balance' was too far one way or the other I would be artificially fatiguing one the muscle groups.
To be fair, the position in my track bikes is about 15mm further forward and the front end is slightly lower but I'm only really using one position and only using quadriceps. Obviously there's no way I could balance on that bike.
The same applies for a TT position; but here we're getting into the realms of specific positions for specific disciplines. For most road riders which is who I assume we're dealing with here I fully advocate for the balance method.
Likes For aniki:
#29
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 309
Bikes: nothing to brag about
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked 206 Times
in
116 Posts
I would bet that the majority of riders in the world prefer a comfortable, upright position. Those of you who are pimping for One Right Position as defined by racing rules might try telling that to all the pleasure riders and commuters in countries like the Netherlands and China.
Anyone who suggests that there's only one answer to a question like this immediately shows himself as a serious non-authority.
Anyone who suggests that there's only one answer to a question like this immediately shows himself as a serious non-authority.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,874
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1856 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
After you have found a good saddle position, lower the stem a little to get the same saddle to bar drop. Then you can experiment with stem extension. My guess is that your hands will still seek more comfort at a location which is closer to you. In this case look for a stem with a cm or two less extension, with the same saddle to bar drop. Or go longer if that’s what you think your hands need.
Usually by the time I have a stem length dialed in I no longer care about bar height, I just want to go ride.
Last edited by Road Fan; 03-17-21 at 11:20 AM.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,094
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 1,290 Times
in
743 Posts
The purpose of balance "Saddle Aft" biased adjustment is for improving comfort for LOW power users - to help relieve weight on hands despite low power output. However, this setup is harder on the lower back muscles at higher power output, potentially less comfortable, may induce lower back pain for stronger cyclists, and ultimattely robs you of higher end power with smaller hip angle.
More advanced and competitive cyclists would have their saddle more forward to reduce risk of lower back pain and to raise mid to high end power by opening the hip angle
More advanced and competitive cyclists would have their saddle more forward to reduce risk of lower back pain and to raise mid to high end power by opening the hip angle
You would check your balance under load, just below your normal pace. That will take into account the support you get from pedaling.
Go here and read this: https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...or-road-bikes/
Likes For phughes: