Should I (2015) ?
04-18-16, 06:47 PM
#477
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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36er only if it fits 33+, too.
06-12-16, 12:32 PM
#480
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My bar is 24mm OD at the ends...
I had found several reverse Tri/TT levers that fit on the outside of 22.4mm barends but was having trouble finding something to fit mine until I just ran across this...
https://="https://www.3tcycling.com/r...ke-levers-pro"
Looks like I would have to drill a hole in my bar for the cable to use these - which I prefer not to do, but unless anyone has any better suggestions soon...I may well give them a try.
Wish me luck...
I had found several reverse Tri/TT levers that fit on the outside of 22.4mm barends but was having trouble finding something to fit mine until I just ran across this...
https://="https://www.3tcycling.com/r...ke-levers-pro"
Looks like I would have to drill a hole in my bar for the cable to use these - which I prefer not to do, but unless anyone has any better suggestions soon...I may well give them a try.
Wish me luck...
Am back from a pretty long, generally successful test-ride and will be riding it like this for a bit, finally wearing some gloves I spent too much money on, while I waffle on what new bartape to get...
Last edited by IAmSam; 06-12-16 at 12:38 PM. Reason: ooops...
06-13-16, 03:52 AM
#482
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Good eye.
Edit...on 2nd thought I prolly should have posted this in the "Quick Question" thread where I originally asked for the advice but since a couple members told me there that barend levers couldn't work on a RB-002 I thought (perhaps incorrectly) this thread was more appropriate for the follow-up
Has anybody here successfully used bar-end/reverse/TT brake levers on a Nitto RB-002 handlebar?
Yes, I know that they specifically state that this bar is not suitable for a bar-end lever. But it is what I already own, and from riding hooded roadie levers so much lately, I got used to being on the "horns" & since i put my Nitto on, in a couple incidents even the slight delay/awkwardness in moving my hand to the cross-top lever has been...errr...disturbing.
I foolishly tried Tektro 4.1, which as to be expected did not work, so now am hunting some other solution. Any ideas here?
Thanx...
Yes, I know that they specifically state that this bar is not suitable for a bar-end lever. But it is what I already own, and from riding hooded roadie levers so much lately, I got used to being on the "horns" & since i put my Nitto on, in a couple incidents even the slight delay/awkwardness in moving my hand to the cross-top lever has been...errr...disturbing.
I foolishly tried Tektro 4.1, which as to be expected did not work, so now am hunting some other solution. Any ideas here?
Thanx...
Edit...on 2nd thought I prolly should have posted this in the "Quick Question" thread where I originally asked for the advice but since a couple members told me there that barend levers couldn't work on a RB-002 I thought (perhaps incorrectly) this thread was more appropriate for the follow-up
Last edited by IAmSam; 06-13-16 at 04:38 AM.
07-06-16, 07:35 PM
#484
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Hey all. Havent been around these parts in a while and I just wanted to ask for some advice. Im currently looking at this bike. It fits me well and is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. Im just curious if the $1600 CAD the seller is asking for is fair? I almost want to ask if he'll do $1300 since it seems pretty well ridden.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Thoughts?
Thanks!
07-06-16, 07:52 PM
#485
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Seems like you're mostly paying for the frame. Not something I would buy, but maybe a decent deal if you're into bespoke steel.
07-06-16, 10:41 PM
#486
Senior Member
1600 CAD is about 1200 USD. Doesn't seem like too much to pay for a one-of-a-kind frame built by hand in Columbus, Ohio out of Columbus steel with a 105 group set.
Just my 2 cents. Might be a better question for the road bike forum though.
Just my 2 cents. Might be a better question for the road bike forum though.
07-06-16, 10:58 PM
#487
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I don't think you are getting hosed at 1600 CAD - bike looks pretty good, though it's not quite my thing - but go ahead and offer 1300. What's the worst that can happen? He'll either say no or come back with a counteroffer.
07-07-16, 07:22 PM
#488
Fixie Infamous
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Should I buy a ts 2.2 for 150 bucks?
07-08-16, 07:53 AM
#492
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I have a ~1550 gram wheelset with BikeHubStore.com SuperLight hubs > 24/28 CX-Rays > H Plus Son Archetypes. It is currently on my Space Horse. I have a new MX Leader frame, and I am trying to decide what wheels to use for that build. Should I:
A. Move the existing wheelset to the MXL and buy a cheaper and more robust wheelset for the Space Horse
-or-
B. Keep the existing wheelset on the Space Horse and buy a new wheelset for the MXL.
Thinking A, but the new Campagnolo Zondas look awesome, and a new wheelset with nicer hubs (though the BHS hubs are solid) could be only a little more expensive than most options out there for a replacement Space Horse wheelset.
That said, a Shimano hub > Velocity A23 set is only $200 from Velomine.
A. Move the existing wheelset to the MXL and buy a cheaper and more robust wheelset for the Space Horse
-or-
B. Keep the existing wheelset on the Space Horse and buy a new wheelset for the MXL.
Thinking A, but the new Campagnolo Zondas look awesome, and a new wheelset with nicer hubs (though the BHS hubs are solid) could be only a little more expensive than most options out there for a replacement Space Horse wheelset.
That said, a Shimano hub > Velocity A23 set is only $200 from Velomine.
Last edited by jtbadge; 07-08-16 at 10:11 AM.
07-08-16, 08:48 AM
#493
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I have a ~1550 gram wheelset with BikeHubStore.com SuperLight hubs > 24/28 CX-Rays > H Plus Son Archetypes. It is currently on my Space Horse. I have a new MX Leader frame, and I am trying to decide what wheels to use for that build. Should I:
A. Move the existing wheelset to the MXL and buy a cheaper and more robust wheelset for the Space Horse
-or-
B. Keep the existing wheelset on the Space Horse and buy a new wheelset for the MXL.
Thinking A, but the new Campagnolo Zondas look awesome, and a new wheelset with nicer hubs (though the BHS hubs are solid) is only a little more expensive than most options out there for a replacement Space Horse wheelset.
A. Move the existing wheelset to the MXL and buy a cheaper and more robust wheelset for the Space Horse
-or-
B. Keep the existing wheelset on the Space Horse and buy a new wheelset for the MXL.
Thinking A, but the new Campagnolo Zondas look awesome, and a new wheelset with nicer hubs (though the BHS hubs are solid) is only a little more expensive than most options out there for a replacement Space Horse wheelset.
08-05-16, 02:03 PM
#494
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Should I buy my friends 2013 caad8 105 +upgraded wheels https://cycling-passion.com/wp-conten...aad8-5-105.jpg for around $400-500 or save up and buy a much nicer steel frame that I really like? This is going to be my first geared bike by the way.
Another question, should I pay $100 for a new Thomson seatpost when I can get one for as low as $60(barely used) online? I ask because I'm going to the mash store soon to get some stuff and I figure I might as well get it there, but it looks like I'm going to spend close to $300 on a seatpost, rack, and cog.
Another question, should I pay $100 for a new Thomson seatpost when I can get one for as low as $60(barely used) online? I ask because I'm going to the mash store soon to get some stuff and I figure I might as well get it there, but it looks like I'm going to spend close to $300 on a seatpost, rack, and cog.
Last edited by Timmy666; 08-05-16 at 06:39 PM.
08-11-16, 08:22 PM
#495
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Should I buy a Thomson Elite cut to 270mm for $34.99? Based on my saddle height, it would put the bottom of the post ~9cm below seatpost clamp, ~5cm below center of top-tube. Not sure if that would be flirting too much with minimum insertion.
08-12-16, 09:04 AM
#496
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
How much will be below the bottom of the top tube? And where do the seat stays join the seat tube?
08-12-16, 10:18 AM
#497
- Soli Deo Gloria -
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https://www.bikethomson.com/wp-conte...0/PostInst.pdf
Personally, I wouldn't use a Thomson seatpost, or any other seatpost for that matter, which had been cut by anyone outside of a machine shop who knows what he is doing.
08-12-16, 11:12 AM
#498
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
I cut all my posts off since they aren't expensive or collectable. I even cut my quill stems for the same reason. What could go wrong? As long as they are inserted far enough to not damage the frame or the fork, why have the excess?
