Anyone Still Have Their '90's Steel Mountain Bike?
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So you think it's possible that the seatpost WILL NOT come out? I just thought I hadn't tried hard enough yet. Read a little on Sheldon Brown but no major research on how to do it. I was thinking heat, but it's aluminum I think. Still havn't tried any acids yet either. Any other suggestions?
#52
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So you think it's possible that the seatpost WILL NOT come out? I just thought I hadn't tried hard enough yet. Read a little on Sheldon Brown but no major research on how to do it. I was thinking heat, but it's aluminum I think. Still havn't tried any acids yet either. Any other suggestions?
#53
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I have read that too. Waiting for my crank tool so that I can remove the BB. Same reason I have not tried ammonia yet. But I'm doing the coke trick first. Good for a "myth busting" anyway. What's the worst that could happen?
#55
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Wow, tons of replies to this thread. Glad to see that these bikes are being put to use! Here's my entry:
It's a 1997 Diamondback Sorrento, with a cheapy Shimano Acera drivetrain. Was my dad's, it was sitting in the attic for the longest time. Put on a new chain, slicks, fenders, lights, and a rack, and it made an excellent commuter through college. Now it lives at work as my around-town bicycle. The drivetrain is surprisingly adequate (compared to my 105 road bike) - sure it's not quite as slick but when adjusted shifts quickly and smoothly. The adjustment is much more finicky than my 105-equipped bike but it's certainly very serviceable.
It's a 1997 Diamondback Sorrento, with a cheapy Shimano Acera drivetrain. Was my dad's, it was sitting in the attic for the longest time. Put on a new chain, slicks, fenders, lights, and a rack, and it made an excellent commuter through college. Now it lives at work as my around-town bicycle. The drivetrain is surprisingly adequate (compared to my 105 road bike) - sure it's not quite as slick but when adjusted shifts quickly and smoothly. The adjustment is much more finicky than my 105-equipped bike but it's certainly very serviceable.
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So you think it's possible that the seatpost WILL NOT come out? I just thought I hadn't tried hard enough yet. Read a little on Sheldon Brown but no major research on how to do it. I was thinking heat, but it's aluminum I think. Still havn't tried any acids yet either. Any other suggestions?
#57
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Richard Cunningham was, of course, the guy who came up the EC (elevated chainstay) design on his Mantis bikes, and who brought the design to the mainstream with his collaboration with Nishiki on the Alien, whose success lead to many similar commercial designs, including Alpinestars, Yeti (famously started as an MBA magazine project), and the Haro pictured above.
One of the other practical advantages to ECs besides eliminating chainsuck was that the chain could be removed without breaking a link!
#58
born again cyclist
i dearly WISH i still had my '90s steel moutnian bike, but it was killed by a bus last spring. i had a '96 Raleigh USA M-80 Cro-mo mountian bike. after my teeneaged interest in mountain biking had waned (i live in chicago ), it sat collecting dust in a garage for years until i turned it into one hell of an excellent, rock solid, commuter (upsized crank, rigid fork, bullhorns with reverse pulls). i technically still have it, but she sits wasting away out on my balcony. the frame is wrecked, but i can't let her go.
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#60
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Picked up these matching 1992 DB Ascent EXs NIB on eBay two years ago for my wife and me. The pics don't do justice to the deep purple color.
These wre CL finds for my sons. The white DB Topanga for younger son and the black DB Sorrento for older son. I believe they are early '90s and they both have the cool platter paint jobs.
These wre CL finds for my sons. The white DB Topanga for younger son and the black DB Sorrento for older son. I believe they are early '90s and they both have the cool platter paint jobs.
#61
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the fd on my bike has a screw holding the chain guide together, and I can bend it apart enough to get the chain through. I found this out when I stripped it down for single speed useage (gunked up freewheel which has since been replaced). I don't know if any other fd's are like this as my bike is a 1988 Raleigh Technium "The Chill" with deore drive train which needs some services but still rides well enough.
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My parents bought this Mongoose Hilltopper new around '94; it was my commuter in high school and I must've put 10,000 miles on it.
It was just too small for me in the end, and now I commute on a road bike of similar vintage, but boy did I love that bike.
It was just too small for me in the end, and now I commute on a road bike of similar vintage, but boy did I love that bike.
#63
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Not a great picture. It's a Performance M505 (5 series from 1995). I rode it in the dirt for years with my son until he went off the college in 2001. Since then it has been my ride for weekend rails-to-trails visits with my wife. I put some 26x1.5" city tires on it last fall and this photo was taken on my first bike overnight. I mounted a Topeak rack and the Topeak trunk bag with the fold out panniers. The chain rings and cluster are very worn but since I have a Trek 1000 and just bought a Trek 520 for commuting I won't be doing much more to this old stead.
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Yep, I've still got my 91 Diamond Back Apex, though it's at my folks' place in NC...
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#65
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So you think it's possible that the seatpost WILL NOT come out? I just thought I hadn't tried hard enough yet. Read a little on Sheldon Brown but no major research on how to do it. I was thinking heat, but it's aluminum I think. Still havn't tried any acids yet either. Any other suggestions?
If it's a steel post stuck in a steel frame then use PB Blaster the same way as above.
In the future use a small amount of grease on your fingertips and spread a very thin layer on BOTH the seat post and the inside of the seat tube down as far as the post would extend, then slide the post in and wipe off the excess grease. Any grease will work, I use black automotive bearing grease and never have an issue. Some people regrease once a year, I don't, grease lasts a long time, I may do it once every 5 years and still the grease is lubricating the seat post just fine, but to be safe I redo it. I had no problem pulling a AL seat post out of a steel bike that had been stored for 30 years and the grease was the original grease from the factory and it still allowed the seat post to come out easily.
#66
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I'm sorry I can't find your post on this, but is the seat post aluminum stuck inside a steel frame? If so soda will work but then you have to rinse it out with clear water afterwards to get the sticky sugar out. You can also use Ammonia, but be in a well ventilated area and wear eye protection and avoid skin contact. And let it soak over night. The best way to this is to remove the bottom bracket, cover the end of the seat post so fluid won't come out, pour either coke or Ammonia into the bottom bracket so it pours down into the seat tube, meaning the frame will have to upside down and remain upside down over night.
If it's a steel post stuck in a steel frame then use PB Blaster the same way as above.
In the future use a small amount of grease on your fingertips and spread a very thin layer on BOTH the seat post and the inside of the seat tube down as far as the post would extend, then slide the post in and wipe off the excess grease. Any grease will work, I use black automotive bearing grease and never have an issue. Some people regrease once a year, I don't, grease lasts a long time, I may do it once every 5 years and still the grease is lubricating the seat post just fine, but to be safe I redo it. I had no problem pulling a AL seat post out of a steel bike that had been stored for 30 years and the grease was the original grease from the factory and it still allowed the seat post to come out easily.
If it's a steel post stuck in a steel frame then use PB Blaster the same way as above.
In the future use a small amount of grease on your fingertips and spread a very thin layer on BOTH the seat post and the inside of the seat tube down as far as the post would extend, then slide the post in and wipe off the excess grease. Any grease will work, I use black automotive bearing grease and never have an issue. Some people regrease once a year, I don't, grease lasts a long time, I may do it once every 5 years and still the grease is lubricating the seat post just fine, but to be safe I redo it. I had no problem pulling a AL seat post out of a steel bike that had been stored for 30 years and the grease was the original grease from the factory and it still allowed the seat post to come out easily.
Last edited by ftimw; 04-30-12 at 08:59 PM. Reason: well, the Parkpre paint job anyway :)
#67
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I'm a little late to the party but here's my recently painted 1987 Giant Sedona It was in an accident so neds the front wheel trued and some brake repair. I like the fit and ride of this bike the best.
#68
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#69
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I have to say it's pretty amazing how good all of these steel framed bikes look 20+ years later.
#71
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Somebody abandoned a Peugeot in exactly my size outside my house. Working everything except for a stuck seat post. Oh, and I may have dropped part of the QR off the balcony into the apartment below. :embarassed:
Will keep it if nobody claims it by the end of the year.
Will keep it if nobody claims it by the end of the year.
#72
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
i dearly WISH i still had my '90s steel moutnian bike, but it was killed by a bus last spring. i had a '96 Raleigh USA M-80 Cro-mo mountian bike. after my teeneaged interest in mountain biking had waned (i live in chicago ), it sat collecting dust in a garage for years until i turned it into one hell of an excellent, rock solid, commuter (upsized crank, rigid fork, bullhorns with reverse pulls). i technically still have it, but she sits wasting away out on my balcony. the frame is wrecked, but i can't let her go.
I am sure that the combined mojo of all the folks here could find you a replacement frame and have had a few pass by me over the years at the shop.
If we are going to crank the clock back... my 1987 Kuwahara Cascade has carried me close to 40,000 km since I bought it 5 years ago. It got drop bars after it's first winter and this has never changed although it has gone from ss to fixed to being my geared expedition bike. This is my favourite era as so many nicely made steel mtb's were made and so many have found new life as commuters and touring bikes. They were closely modelled after the touring bikes of the day and often similarly or even identically equipped with the only difference being their 26 inch wheels and tyres which have now become a popular choice for tourists and many commuters.
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 05-31-13 at 11:50 PM.
#73
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I've never bought a MTB new, but I still have my 1985 Raleigh Wyoming touring bike that I bought new in Feb 1986. Still in great shape since It's never been left outside, although it does have some newer components on it of course.
#74
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i dearly WISH i still had my '90s steel moutnian bike, but it was killed by a bus last spring. i had a '96 Raleigh USA M-80 Cro-mo mountian bike. after my teeneaged interest in mountain biking had waned (i live in chicago ), it sat collecting dust in a garage for years until i turned it into one hell of an excellent, rock solid, commuter (upsized crank, rigid fork, bullhorns with reverse pulls). i technically still have it, but she sits wasting away out on my balcony. the frame is wrecked, but i can't let her go.
Last edited by monsterpile; 05-01-12 at 10:10 PM.