Any insights on the strongest bike chain available?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Any insights on the strongest bike chain available?
As a daily commuter for about 4 years now (30+ miles a day) I pride myself on being prepared for nearly anything that can go wrong with the bike. I travel with cables, tubes, lube, tools...Now it looks like I may have to begin carrying a spare chain. I broke my first one about a year ago and chalked it up to 3 years of neglect. I just broke the one I replaced it with yesterday while in the middle of a steep climb. Does Anyone have any insights as to the strongest ( weight is not an issue) chain I can get so this doesn't happen again any time soon? I ride a specialized Allez triple..
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 693
Bikes: 2010 Felt DA, 2012/6 Felt F5, 2015 Felt AR FRD
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Three years at that mileage is too long for any chain! If what you're saying is true, you probably put ~7500 miles on that chain. I would say the original chain simply failed from wear, and in the process damaged your cassette. That worn cassette probably accelerated the damage on your new chain, and pow.
If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: South Austin, Texas
Posts: 919
Bikes: 2010 Origin8 CX700, 2003 Cannondale Backroads Cross Country, 1997 Trek mtn steel frame converted commuter/tourer, 1983 Univega Sportour, 2010 Surly LHT, Others...
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times
in
12 Posts
Do you have a chain tool on your bike ?
You can also drop one link, most of the time, w/o ill effect.......or do it anyway and don't run your derailleurs at full capacity....
I.e., big chainring, big cog on your cassette......
Or you can install a quick link/master link......SRAM 870 is plenty strong and comes with a quick link......
I have broken many chains on my utility/trailer bike and more on pedicabs.
Usually can drop a link, put the pin back in, and get home.....
You can also drop one link, most of the time, w/o ill effect.......or do it anyway and don't run your derailleurs at full capacity....
I.e., big chainring, big cog on your cassette......
Or you can install a quick link/master link......SRAM 870 is plenty strong and comes with a quick link......
I have broken many chains on my utility/trailer bike and more on pedicabs.
Usually can drop a link, put the pin back in, and get home.....
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 150
Bikes: 2013 KHS 747 (by Lennard Zinn), 1987 Nishiki Sport, 1983 Sanwa 700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
Three years at that mileage is too long for any chain! If what you're saying is true, you probably put ~7500 miles on that chain. I would say the original chain simply failed from wear, and in the process damaged your cassette. That worn cassette probably accelerated the damage on your new chain, and pow.
If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: 6367 km away from the center of the Earth
Posts: 1,666
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
+1
all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
I don't know about the strongest chain available but those made for single speed or IGH' s bike are usually wider than those on bikes with derailleur
Last edited by erig007; 08-25-13 at 08:34 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 150
Bikes: 2013 KHS 747 (by Lennard Zinn), 1987 Nishiki Sport, 1983 Sanwa 700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
Actually i can notice the chain getting loose after climbing just one stiff hill which doesn't happen all the time. I ride an IGH bike so it is easy to notice because of the lack of tensioning device on it.
I don't know about the strongest chain available but those made for single speed or IGH' s bike are usually wider than those on bikes with derailleur
I don't know about the strongest chain available but those made for single speed or IGH' s bike are usually wider than those on bikes with derailleur
#7
George Krpan
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Westlake Village, California
Posts: 1,708
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
30 miles a day, 5 days a week, 52 weeks a year, that's 7800 miles a year. 3 years, that's 23,400 miles. That chain lasted a long time. If you didn't change the chainrings and cassette when you put on the new chain it's no wonder it broke.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Springfield, MA
Posts: 1,060
Bikes: 2012 Motobecane Fantom CXX, 2012 Motobecane Fantom CX, 1997 Bianchi Nyala, 200? Burley Rock 'n Roll
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I don't think the OP is complaining about the one he or she broke after 3 years. It's the replacement one that broke after just a year of use that is at issue. I'm wondering if it was just a defective one. Maybe try a different brand or model this time. Also, the suggestion to carry a chain tool and quick link is great.
#9
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,788
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
+1
all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
Over the winter, I'll be 'going retro', and going back to 8-speed. ONE 8-speed CHAIN BROKEN -- period. Counting 2 breaks on the present niner, that's four breaks in 6-1/2 years.
#10
Banned
Consider your technique?
When are you demanding the chain be pushed off 1 cog/chainring onto another.. ?
are you letting up on pedaling force, spinning lightly for that moment?
But..
Strongest chains are not what derailleur bikes use , they are Track Bike Chains ,
or single speed /IGH chains ..
Full bushing in inner link , under the roller + the Pins stick up proud above the side plates
+ they are not flexed sideways in derailing, to change gears.
That is your strongest chain ..
...
are you letting up on pedaling force, spinning lightly for that moment?
But..
Strongest chains are not what derailleur bikes use , they are Track Bike Chains ,
or single speed /IGH chains ..
Full bushing in inner link , under the roller + the Pins stick up proud above the side plates
+ they are not flexed sideways in derailing, to change gears.
That is your strongest chain ..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-26-18 at 10:52 AM.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all, I will be carrying my chain tool and spare links. Will also be paying more attention to the drive system in general, sprockets as well as chain cleanliness...and my cassette is a 9 speed, and this chain lasted one year. Thanks all!!
#13
Mostly harmless ™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 216 Times
in
130 Posts
As for chains breaking, they break for the following reasons (if two or more are combined, even worse), again, correct me if I'm wrong, it's just my "post-mortem" analysis of the breaks I've had, or whitnessed:
- strong pedalling (climbing, starting a sprint etc) seems to be the needed ingredient for most scenarios, combined with one, or more of the following
- (front) shifting under load (can put them at an awkward angle)
- not lubricated (lubricant washed off etc)
- riding severely cross chained with a dry (unlubricated chain), under great load
- worn chain - the more worn it gets, the more it is likely to break, even if it gets worn along with the cassette, so it doesn't skip
- poorly assembled (connected when mounting)
- gremlins - whenever you can't determine a problem cause, or find someone to blame
#15
Banned
#17
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,488 Times
in
1,286 Posts
Most of the time when a chain breaks is because of user error and neglect. Some people don't know how to shift correctly especially when going uphill...Personally I ride FG/SS and never broke a chain and I use very cheap 1/8th chains.
#18
Some Weirdo
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Rexburg, ID
Posts: 502
Bikes: '86 Schwinn Prelude, '91 Scott Sawtooth, '73 Raleigh "Grand 3"
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 223 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times
in
92 Posts
Thart there is a monster zombeye...
__________________
Somewhere, a village is missing its idiot.
Somewhere, a village is missing its idiot.
#19
eMail Sold to Spammers
You need better chain maintenance, not a stronger chain. Get in the habit of cleaning and lubing your chain. Buying a chain wear checker (usually for less than $10) is also handy.
If you are short on time, you can get chain lube in a spray can. I can wipe down my chain, lube it and remove the excess lube in about 2 minutes with a rag and spray lube.
edit: for entertainment value, here is a video of a track sprinter vs a road cyclist. The track sprinter really does need a stronger chain at the 10 minute mark.
If you are short on time, you can get chain lube in a spray can. I can wipe down my chain, lube it and remove the excess lube in about 2 minutes with a rag and spray lube.
edit: for entertainment value, here is a video of a track sprinter vs a road cyclist. The track sprinter really does need a stronger chain at the 10 minute mark.
Last edited by SactoDoug; 10-25-18 at 01:14 PM.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
335 Posts
Maintienance and a chain stretch tool (and ability to fix a chain). Those are key.
@SactoDoug - thanks for the entertainment!!!
Yeah, we (track junkies) put a butt load of torque down (and at high rpm) in a short amount of time. 2000+ watts is serious power!
(well, doing a standing start at 90 gear inches needs TORQUE!) 209 rpm was impressive too!
But we don't use small cogs & we use beefy chains (1/8"). Most problems I see are with ripping cleats off of pedals or torquing the wheel out of the dropout. With good maintenance, chain isn't the issue.
@SactoDoug - thanks for the entertainment!!!
Yeah, we (track junkies) put a butt load of torque down (and at high rpm) in a short amount of time. 2000+ watts is serious power!
(well, doing a standing start at 90 gear inches needs TORQUE!) 209 rpm was impressive too!
But we don't use small cogs & we use beefy chains (1/8"). Most problems I see are with ripping cleats off of pedals or torquing the wheel out of the dropout. With good maintenance, chain isn't the issue.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,905
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,928 Times
in
2,553 Posts
The hole in your thesis here is that EVERY 9-speed chain I've ever owned has snapped in the first month;I fix it (I don't use master links), and up until this last one, they would last until I replaced them 2 years later. The one I'm running now just blew out on the way to my daughter's high school, and while it's holding together (again), I'm ordering a new one this week.
Over the winter, I'll be 'going retro', and going back to 8-speed. ONE 8-speed CHAIN BROKEN -- period. Counting 2 breaks on the present niner, that's four breaks in 6-1/2 years.
Over the winter, I'll be 'going retro', and going back to 8-speed. ONE 8-speed CHAIN BROKEN -- period. Counting 2 breaks on the present niner, that's four breaks in 6-1/2 years.
Your first chain lasted until long past "dead". Commuting 30 miles a day for 3 years? 30 X (5) days/week X 50 weeks/year X (3) years = 22,5000 miles. Whoa! You should be checking chain stretch and changing chains far more often (3-7,000 miles). With a good tape measure or ruler 12 pairs of links with the chain pulled tight (no force required, just no play.). At 1/16" inch over 12", take the chain off and put on a new one. Once you have several chains at 1/16" stretch, you can start re-using them until the chains hit 3/32". Then it is time for a new cassette. Maybe new chainrings. (Old teeth will accelerate the stretching of chains as only the first tooth is fully bearing on the new chain with its closer spacing between pins than the warn teeth of the chainring or cog.)
Edit: missed the zombie!
Ben
#22
Senior Member
+1 all the advice here. But if you really want the best derailleur chain go find a Rohloff SLT. They are absurdly expensive if you can even find one, and you would be limited to 9spd at the most I think. I don't believe they ever made a 10spd or anything after 8/9spd.
I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
#23
Junior Member
Ebike chain?
How about an ebike chain? Aren’t they supposed to be built stronger to reduce stretch overtime due to the extra torque an ebike motor provides?
#24
Banned
+1 all the advice here. But if you really want the best derailleur chain go find a Rohloff SLT. They are absurdly expensive if you can even find one, and you would be limited to 9spd at the most I think. I don't believe they ever made a 10spd or anything after 8/9spd.
I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
#25
Banned
Herr Rohloff supplied the chains for Campagnolo for a while,
then Tulio's Descendants, etc, running the company
invested in their own production equipment, and got supply done inhouse..
maybe in Romania, where they went to lower costs, for many parts..
then Tulio's Descendants, etc, running the company
invested in their own production equipment, and got supply done inhouse..
maybe in Romania, where they went to lower costs, for many parts..