How about those 2020 TDF bikes?
#101
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BAr Cons are nice - Except when youre in a criterium and your competitor reaches over and taps them to sabotage your efforts ! (This was a legitimate barstool argument we used to have against bar end shifters BITD )
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#103
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I have never heard this as a reason for the squealing.
How does a mechanic even set the brakes up to squeal? All the disc brake bikes i have built dont squeal since squealing means there is rotor rub. Rotor rub = friction and friction = slower speed as well as an annoying noise at all times.
So the mechanics obviously aren't setting the bikes up with rotor rub as that would make riders slower and also make noise st all times.
What is the process then? Do the mechanics set up the pads and add oil to the surface so it squeals only when braking?...that seems dangerous since braking effectiveness will be reduced.
Please let the ignorant in on how this works.
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#104
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#105
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I've never been a racer anyway, so it doesn't matter... And I don't race on barstools either!
#106
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#107
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We already know that many of the newer components and frames are far less durable than their predecessors.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#108
feros ferio
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I have no [death] wish to go 50mph. 50/14 is a high enough top gear for me, just under 35mph at 120RPM.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#110
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This is fascinating to hear. I plead ignorance on road racing because I don't do it and don't have easy/quick access to watch it so I also don't see many races.
I have never heard this as a reason for the squealing.
How does a mechanic even set the brakes up to squeal? All the disc brake bikes i have built dont squeal since squealing means there is rotor rub. Rotor rub = friction and friction = slower speed as well as an annoying noise at all times.
So the mechanics obviously aren't setting the bikes up with rotor rub as that would make riders slower and also make noise st all times.
What is the process then? Do the mechanics set up the pads and add oil to the surface so it squeals only when braking?...that seems dangerous since braking effectiveness will be reduced.
Please let the ignorant in on how this works.
I have never heard this as a reason for the squealing.
How does a mechanic even set the brakes up to squeal? All the disc brake bikes i have built dont squeal since squealing means there is rotor rub. Rotor rub = friction and friction = slower speed as well as an annoying noise at all times.
So the mechanics obviously aren't setting the bikes up with rotor rub as that would make riders slower and also make noise st all times.
What is the process then? Do the mechanics set up the pads and add oil to the surface so it squeals only when braking?...that seems dangerous since braking effectiveness will be reduced.
Please let the ignorant in on how this works.
#111
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Disc drake 'squeal' or 'howl' can result through (but is not limited to): vibration (pads, calipers, flex in rotor), rotors being too hot, rotors being too cold, pad mis-alignment, pads being 'glazed', water on the rotors, other 'crap' on the rotors, rotors marginally out true, position of vents in rotors, the type of rotor and type of pads being used...it's a long list....
So are you saying pro mechanics are setting these up incorrectly and/or not servicing them correctly?
#112
Groupetto Dragon-Ass
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When I think about the switch from caliper to disk brakes, I'm taken with the different path that the energy has to take.
With our calipers, the "path" is from ground to tire, rim, caliper brake, and then the fork crown or rear brake mount - both just over the top of the tire and centered.
Disk brakes have a path from from the ground to tire, to rim, to spokes, to hub, to disk and disk caliper then up the fork legs and rear stays. Probably more on the side the brake is mounted on.
Seems to me there is more force being exerted on the fork legs, spokes, and stays then on our old bikes, and being handled by assemblies that are much lighter.
Amazing.
With our calipers, the "path" is from ground to tire, rim, caliper brake, and then the fork crown or rear brake mount - both just over the top of the tire and centered.
Disk brakes have a path from from the ground to tire, to rim, to spokes, to hub, to disk and disk caliper then up the fork legs and rear stays. Probably more on the side the brake is mounted on.
Seems to me there is more force being exerted on the fork legs, spokes, and stays then on our old bikes, and being handled by assemblies that are much lighter.
Amazing.
#113
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Or inherent flaws in the design of the frame and fork to dampen the frequency of the vibration. I can set up my discs to be silent...I take them out in the rain and they howl...like the devil himself...I changed my pad to a kevlar type now they are silent regardless of the weather. Are mechanics setting those disc breaks properly?...I believe they are following the service and installation methods as prescribed by the manufacturers, they would have been trained by SRAM and Shimano in such matters. When you think about it these systems are being used for 21 days of competiton, being pushed to there mechanical limits, limits you or I could never achive, day in day out. And frankly as long as they perform the intended function at slowing / stopping the bikes I don't think anyone in pro racing cares if they squeal or not. I certainly don't
#114
Senior Member
Look at the size of the largest rear cog on the new race bikes in the pics above. On a road race bike! Good direction, I believe, gives the option to spin up a long climb when you run out of out-of-the-saddle climbing power.
#115
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Agreed! That was Cannondale's trademark. Two possible explanations for the new welds: a) Made overseas and they went cheap by not post-finishing the welds, or b) The newer tubes are so thin wall that they don't want to risk hitting those with the band-sander in post-finishing.
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19-20 mph on a 5% grade
32 mph sprint on 3% grade.
Note the big CeramicSpeed lower jockey wheels ($500), right out of the DA7700 GS approach.
One commentator said it was 1/2 watt advantage.
The two pulls by the Jumbo diesel and the Kuss kid show the advancements across the spectrum.
550w for 3 miles. Holy cow. I’d only get that with light bulbs.
I was working on a bike with 6700, short cage RD.
It had an oversized lower jockey wheel and a Roadlink, running 11-34 rear just fine and a compact front.
The key was not totally about climbing; some of the intent was minimizing HR issues.
When I’m gasping at the top, she’s a bit behind but not winded a bit, enjoying the climb.
She can likely run 36t rear if she wants, or swap all that to a long cage and run 38t rear.
I see that in my geriatric future.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 09-11-20 at 09:29 AM.
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#118
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I can appreciate the new bikes for what they are, they are disposable, but they are absurdly efficient. Would I like to go smash out a century on one? OH YES I WOULD! Would I want to own one? Not all that much. If I were to spend that kind of coin I'd get into something more unique, albeit less efficient, but special to me.
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#120
Blamester
The bikes are really great. I watched Sunwebs Hirschi win yesterday and boy did he descend well on that bike. He made it look easy.
#121
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I still miss the Argon Gallium. Had a nice no nonsense look to it, one of the most traditional geo bikes in the peloton, though the Wilier isn't a bad replacement.
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I can appreciate the new bikes for what they are, they are disposable, but they are absurdly efficient. Would I like to go smash out a century on one? OH YES I WOULD! Would I want to own one? Not all that much. If I were to spend that kind of coin I'd get into something more unique, albeit less efficient, but special to me.
My used coin goes for some used modern, but not the full-on racing stuff, because my iron-ass days are well behind me.
-Cipollini Logos: And they say it's their "comfort" model. Yeah, right, but I like it. My second foray into 1x...
-Colnago CLX: Haven't ridden it yet, but it's their "comfort" model. We'll see, as it will compete with the Logos for mileage.
-Wraith Hustle: It's modern, it's steel, and was built "to be built" with standard BB, seat post, calipers, steerer, etc. My "go-to."
-Litespeed (Lynskey): It truly is a 1996 frame that performs easily with today's stuff. It is the bridge for me from then to now.
-Trek Y-Foil: While I no longer patronize anything Trek, Bontrager, Specialized or Roval, this was before and is funky.
-Cadex CFR-1: Actually rides a lot like the Litespeed. It has a good beat and you can dance to it.
-Everything else: several rungs down the ladder, but better than I deserve and easy to ride. Many of my C&V's are upgraded to modern components, but I'm learning, over time, to sort of draw the line at 7700 or 7800 to stick with polished stuff that I can "range up." The Wolftooth Roadlink is my friend, and I see Mao's kids are copying it, so when they take over, our bikes will be ready for their victory Tour.
All that being said, though I've never, ever been a green bike fan, I'd take one of those new Bianchi's in half a heartbeat.
And I now have 3 sets of tubeless wheels. Bontrager RXL/TLR, HED Ardennes, and Mavic Ksyrium Pro. They are way different.
The Mavic seem faster, using 700x25 Yksium Pro tires mated to the wheels. I bought them used, but never used.
The Bontrager are more comfortable with 700x25 Schwalbe Pro 1's that seem bigger and softer. Durability? Jury's out.
The HED's are much wider, and will be set up with Conti GP5000TL's, which feel heavy. That court is not yet in session.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 09-11-20 at 09:54 AM.
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#123
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Martinez's win on today's grueling summit finish was pretty epic, and his Cannondale looked great.
Watching the finish, I couldn't help but think (again) that although it's a bummer that we have so few American riders in the tour, we have plenty of American bikes at the tour. Cannondale, Specialized, Trek, Cervelo (ok, Canadian, but relocating to Orange County, CA presently). I think that's cool.