Di2 FD adjustment
04-28-23, 09:12 PM
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Di2 FD adjustment
got a new bike with Di2 and am not totally pleased, the RD shifts really nice but FD shifts like crap. at least that is what i think. it is taking about 5-6 revs of the chain ring before it catches. so today i attempted to adjust it following this as a guide:
https://bettershifting.com/installat...t-derailleurs/
my FD is the FD-R9150 and is mounted via a band adapter. it appears to be mounted properly: height to large chain ring is about 2mm (spec say 1-3mm). angle of outer plate is parallel to large chain ring. i did need to make an adjustment to the top limit and also electronically adjusted the lower limit. i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this.
although the high/top could not be fully adjusted i doubt this is the cause of poor shifting. to refresh myself i watched the park tool adjustment for mechanical FDs. in it they do mention the possibility of needing to increase the spacing between inner/outer plates relative to the chain if shifting is slow. for Di2 is this something else that should be considered?
i've also just read the DM for the R9150 and understand the adjustment process better. but wondering more about the impact of not being able to make the final "Top position electrical adjustment" beginning on pg 159 and if more spacing between chain and cage should be considered.
if it matters i am a Di2 noob and i do not have the multi shifting feature enabled, did not like it so am in the full manual mode, that is, the FD only shifts when i tell it to.
also wondering if crappy shifting is due to too much crank torque, too much, too slow/fast RPM, wrong cog in back...this has never been an issue for me with mechanical so wondering.
https://bettershifting.com/installat...t-derailleurs/
my FD is the FD-R9150 and is mounted via a band adapter. it appears to be mounted properly: height to large chain ring is about 2mm (spec say 1-3mm). angle of outer plate is parallel to large chain ring. i did need to make an adjustment to the top limit and also electronically adjusted the lower limit. i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this.
although the high/top could not be fully adjusted i doubt this is the cause of poor shifting. to refresh myself i watched the park tool adjustment for mechanical FDs. in it they do mention the possibility of needing to increase the spacing between inner/outer plates relative to the chain if shifting is slow. for Di2 is this something else that should be considered?
i've also just read the DM for the R9150 and understand the adjustment process better. but wondering more about the impact of not being able to make the final "Top position electrical adjustment" beginning on pg 159 and if more spacing between chain and cage should be considered.
if it matters i am a Di2 noob and i do not have the multi shifting feature enabled, did not like it so am in the full manual mode, that is, the FD only shifts when i tell it to.
also wondering if crappy shifting is due to too much crank torque, too much, too slow/fast RPM, wrong cog in back...this has never been an issue for me with mechanical so wondering.
04-28-23, 09:35 PM
#2
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Are you able to take the bike back to the store ?
what is the bike ?
What are the cranks ?
Barry
what is the bike ?
What are the cranks ?
Barry
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04-28-23, 09:59 PM
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online purchase that arrived much earlier than anticipated with weather conspiring against me preventing me from riding immediately. i'm really hoping that it is just an adjustment that is needed. cranks are 170mm ultegra R8000.
04-28-23, 10:49 PM
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don't try this at home.
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got a new bike with Di2 and am not totally pleased, the RD shifts really nice but FD shifts like crap. at least that is what i think. it is taking about 5-6 revs of the chain ring before it catches. so today i attempted to adjust it following this as a guide:
https://bettershifting.com/installat...t-derailleurs/
my FD is the FD-R9150 and is mounted via a band adapter. it appears to be mounted properly: height to large chain ring is about 2mm (spec say 1-3mm). angle of outer plate is parallel to large chain ring. i did need to make an adjustment to the top limit and also electronically adjusted the lower limit. i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this.
although the high/top could not be fully adjusted i doubt this is the cause of poor shifting. to refresh myself i watched the park tool adjustment for mechanical FDs. in it they do mention the possibility of needing to increase the spacing between inner/outer plates relative to the chain if shifting is slow. for Di2 is this something else that should be considered?
i've also just read the DM for the R9150 and understand the adjustment process better. but wondering more about the impact of not being able to make the final "Top position electrical adjustment" beginning on pg 159 and if more spacing between chain and cage should be considered.
if it matters i am a Di2 noob and i do not have the multi shifting feature enabled, did not like it so am in the full manual mode, that is, the FD only shifts when i tell it to.
also wondering if crappy shifting is due to too much crank torque, too much, too slow/fast RPM, wrong cog in back...this has never been an issue for me with mechanical so wondering.
https://bettershifting.com/installat...t-derailleurs/
my FD is the FD-R9150 and is mounted via a band adapter. it appears to be mounted properly: height to large chain ring is about 2mm (spec say 1-3mm). angle of outer plate is parallel to large chain ring. i did need to make an adjustment to the top limit and also electronically adjusted the lower limit. i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this.
although the high/top could not be fully adjusted i doubt this is the cause of poor shifting. to refresh myself i watched the park tool adjustment for mechanical FDs. in it they do mention the possibility of needing to increase the spacing between inner/outer plates relative to the chain if shifting is slow. for Di2 is this something else that should be considered?
i've also just read the DM for the R9150 and understand the adjustment process better. but wondering more about the impact of not being able to make the final "Top position electrical adjustment" beginning on pg 159 and if more spacing between chain and cage should be considered.
if it matters i am a Di2 noob and i do not have the multi shifting feature enabled, did not like it so am in the full manual mode, that is, the FD only shifts when i tell it to.
also wondering if crappy shifting is due to too much crank torque, too much, too slow/fast RPM, wrong cog in back...this has never been an issue for me with mechanical so wondering.
You said: "i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this."
It's not clear to me: did the high limit screw work correctly, with around 0.5 mm clearance, like this page 154 diagram shows:
~~~~~
I don't understand what that bettershifting adjustment method is doing: it sets the inward low gear clearance with the electronic micro step adjustment, then does it again in the big ring-big cog. but that would move the low gear adjustment too. Why is it doing this?
~~~~~
As a side note, It was extremely critical that the front derailleur cage is parallel to the chainring to avoid some rubbing in the lowest gears. And it wasn't very easy for me to sight along the cage and see the chainring correctly.
04-28-23, 10:56 PM
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My 8 year old 6850 front derailleur still shifts instantly, any rear cog, fast or slow cadence. It's the best feature of Di2. I do try to ease up the pedaling torque.
You said: "i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this."
It's not clear to me: did the high limit screw work correctly, with around 0.5 mm clearance, like this page 154 diagram shows:
~~~~~
I don't understand what that bettershifting adjustment method is doing: it sets the inward low gear clearance with the electronic micro step adjustment, then does it again in the big ring-big cog. but that would move the low gear adjustment too. Why is it doing this?
~~~~~
As a side note, It was extremely critical that the front derailleur cage is parallel to the chainring to avoid some rubbing in the lowest gears. And it wasn't very easy for me to sight along the cage and see the chainring correctly.
You said: "i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this."
It's not clear to me: did the high limit screw work correctly, with around 0.5 mm clearance, like this page 154 diagram shows:
~~~~~
I don't understand what that bettershifting adjustment method is doing: it sets the inward low gear clearance with the electronic micro step adjustment, then does it again in the big ring-big cog. but that would move the low gear adjustment too. Why is it doing this?
~~~~~
As a side note, It was extremely critical that the front derailleur cage is parallel to the chainring to avoid some rubbing in the lowest gears. And it wasn't very easy for me to sight along the cage and see the chainring correctly.
OP, there is no good reason your derailleur won't shift far enough to the right. Something is wrong with your crank mounting/chainline, the way the FD is attached to the bike or some angle of the RD that makes it operate in the wrong plane. All of those will screw up the shifting.
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04-29-23, 05:28 AM
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9150 adjusts completely differently than your old stuff. You set up multiple chain locations with 9150.
OP, there is no good reason your derailleur won't shift far enough to the right. Something is wrong with your crank mounting/chainline, the way the FD is attached to the bike or some angle of the RD that makes it operate in the wrong plane. All of those will screw up the shifting.
OP, there is no good reason your derailleur won't shift far enough to the right. Something is wrong with your crank mounting/chainline, the way the FD is attached to the bike or some angle of the RD that makes it operate in the wrong plane. All of those will screw up the shifting.
OP, Is the FD support bolt set?
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04-29-23, 11:32 AM
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My 8 year old 6850 front derailleur still shifts instantly, any rear cog, fast or slow cadence. It's the best feature of Di2. I do try to ease up the pedaling torque.
You said: "i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this."
It's not clear to me: did the high limit screw work correctly, with around 0.5 mm clearance, like this page 154 diagram shows:
~~~~~
I don't understand what that bettershifting adjustment method is doing: it sets the inward low gear clearance with the electronic micro step adjustment, then does it again in the big ring-big cog. but that would move the low gear adjustment too. Why is it doing this?
~~~~~
As a side note, It was extremely critical that the front derailleur cage is parallel to the chainring to avoid some rubbing in the lowest gears. And it wasn't very easy for me to sight along the cage and see the chainring correctly.
You said: "i was unable to make the final adjustment to the high/top limit, there was just not enough travel to do this."
It's not clear to me: did the high limit screw work correctly, with around 0.5 mm clearance, like this page 154 diagram shows:
~~~~~
I don't understand what that bettershifting adjustment method is doing: it sets the inward low gear clearance with the electronic micro step adjustment, then does it again in the big ring-big cog. but that would move the low gear adjustment too. Why is it doing this?
~~~~~
As a side note, It was extremely critical that the front derailleur cage is parallel to the chainring to avoid some rubbing in the lowest gears. And it wasn't very easy for me to sight along the cage and see the chainring correctly.
i also don't understand why the limit adjustment a second time when in big-big but it is in the shimano DM.
9150 adjusts completely differently than your old stuff. You set up multiple chain locations with 9150.
OP, there is no good reason your derailleur won't shift far enough to the right. Something is wrong with your crank mounting/chainline, the way the FD is attached to the bike or some angle of the RD that makes it operate in the wrong plane. All of those will screw up the shifting.
OP, there is no good reason your derailleur won't shift far enough to the right. Something is wrong with your crank mounting/chainline, the way the FD is attached to the bike or some angle of the RD that makes it operate in the wrong plane. All of those will screw up the shifting.
i assumed it was when i did my first attempt to perform an alignment, the results of the install appeared to be good. today i just loosened everything as if i were installing so i believe the support bolt is set properly now. i assumed the fixing bolt would allow vertical movement of the FD but apparently not, at least not with the shimano clamp band. that is pretty clear in the diagram in the DM. i needed to use the rear bolt to make that adjustment, i brought the FD down a bit, now at about 1mm above the teeth.
after this front shifting has improved significantly but i think i still have a bit of tweaking to do. i am used to adjusting mechanical and the nice thing about that is i can shift the lever or pull on the cable slowly to see every nuance of the shift, with electronic it is so fast it is a little more difficult to see but maybe not really necessary. i'm sure that once dialed in it will be fine and i'll never have to think about it again (i hope).
now for a ride to see how it really performs, sunny with a high of 84 today.
thanks.
04-29-23, 03:48 PM
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ok, nice ride in the hills with a good amount of FD shifting, only once did it not shift immediately, all other times it was perfect. so, i think i have just a little more tweaking and it should be fine.
thanks all.
this is the guy i found up in the hills today.
thanks all.
this is the guy i found up in the hills today.
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04-30-23, 08:48 AM
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I'm good to go!
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Your shifts should happen quickly. If you aren't getting into that ring quickly, then keep pestering someone. Something isn't right if it takes more than half a crank to get the chain firmly on the new ring. And you shouldn't put up with some good shifts and some late shifts either.
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04-30-23, 07:19 PM
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I had the exact same issue with my 6850 Di2 setup when I switched out chainrings a year ago. Turns out that I didn't install the small ring correctly. There should be a tab or other marking which must be installed to line up with the crank, otherwise the small and large teeth don't line up properly and bad shifting results. See here for the thread I started including the resolution. Maybe bike assembly team had a junior tech assigned to your bike.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...hainrings.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...hainrings.html
04-30-23, 07:40 PM
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I had the exact same issue with my 6850 Di2 setup when I switched out chainrings a year ago. Turns out that I didn't install the small ring correctly. There should be a tab or other marking which must be installed to line up with the crank, otherwise the small and large teeth don't line up properly and bad shifting results. See here for the thread I started including the resolution. Maybe bike assembly team had a junior tech assigned to your bike.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...hainrings.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...hainrings.html
