SJX426 

Finished the project from post 7098, replacement calipers.
Disassembled, cleaned, lubed, assembled and installed the rear one. Decided to leave the Campagnolo pads on.
Done.

djkashuba 

Fender and lighting roughed in. Always takes a few sessions for me to get it done.


Gitane Gran Tour '84 by djk762, on Flickr

ascherer 

Started to apply the Paramount transfers I got from Waterford the week before they closed. I've finished the downtube logos and the Campagnolo and Reynolds labels on the bottom and top of the seat tube. The Schwinn panel on the seat tube will be last, I'm a bit concerned about it lining up properly when it wraps around the tube. Any tips? There's no mention of the water spray method in the very detailed instructions.


They're straight enough for me, but they're about 1/8" offset top to bottom. I'll manage.


Subtle enough?


Doesn't match the original, but if Richard Schwinn says this is the one to use, who am I to argue?

2cam16

Got a bit of wrenching on the Moho this morning. Almost done.
IMG_4983 by 2cam16, on Flickr

Mad Honk 

Seat post day here in cold southern Indiana. It came in listed as pretty rough but really just needed some cleaning and a run through the 3M satin finish wheel. Smiles, MH

Ready to go back into service.

jamesdak 

Wrenching in frustration today. Don't deviate from what works. Been using Vittoria latex tubes for years with no problems. Saw a "deal" on some Vredestein's a while back and got four of them to try. Swapped the Lithium 2 tires that came on the Pacenti for some new Conti GP 5000's and put two of the new Vredestein tubes inside. Bearing in mind, I had already put the others on the Merlin and had one go on the first ride. Anyway got these installed, worked my way around the bead like I always do to check for anything pinched, and then pumped them up. Both inner tubes blew at around 70 psi. I should have known better, LOL!

spclark 

So from this we can safely feel confident in saying "ALL latex tubes are most certainly NOT created equal" eh?

I've long held similar beliefs when manufactured products get involved. Not at all unlike "one gets what one pays for" if one shops with some caution.

merziac

Looks good Dave, did you do the head too,

I have a couple that I want to shine from stem to stern but getting the head to cooperate has been a futz too far so far.

Been tempted to take them to the worn wire wheel but cant get all the way there, some of it is really rough, some not, hard to get it close to even all the way around so far.

merziac

I always thought that one with the stars was maybe sort of exclusive to Schwinn, knowing someone will chime in now to prove me wrong now that I said it out loud.

Mad Honk 

merziac ,
The top bits clean pretty nicely with a wire wheel on a Dremel. It allows getting into the hard to reach spaces to clean up the accumulated crud. I use mini wire brush bits in a drill to clean the threads and holes in the pivot nuts, and the Dremel to clean the crud out of the bolt threads themselves. I add a special stainless washer to keep from damaging the bolts with the clamp interface. I can likely do some pictures of the process if you are interested. Smiles, MH

ascherer 

I don’t know about that but I’m going to look at my others! What I was referring to is that the old sticker looked like this:

merziac

Yep, I get it and know what you mean.

Gonna check some of mine as well.

That one looks original from here as it seems to have been clamped on at some point.

merziac

@ascherer, here's a couple

merziac

Tx Dave, I'm good, haven't gone down the Dremel hole yet, I have an air powered one that is cheap, tough and way better than the regular ones.

Had it for years from Harbor Freight but those tiny wire wheels suck, don't last and do a poor job IMO.

The cutting wheels work great and have saved my azz many times.

Trav1s

Here's another project in the works and will end up my round town runner. Hope to get the frame home next week and do some investigation but I'm pretty sure it is a 1990 Series 3.0 frame. The wheels were a $20 & 3 hour round trip FB marketplace score.

I plan to repurpose the 105 5700 parts from my Quick and set it up as 2x11.

Im seeing some Velo Orange parts in the future. If it doesn’t fit me, I’ll make wall art out of it.

jPrichard10 

Swapping cockpits on the frenchy, and was so excited to use this fluted Mavic stem that I didn't check the bar clamp diameter:


26.0 stem, 25.0 bar. Definitely in the "do not shim" range (I really don't like shimming handlebars at all).

I like these bars and I live this stem, but now I gotta choose which to keep.

Mad Honk 

Another day of seat post refurbishing, two SR posts and both about the same results:

A bit of time on the buffing wheel but results seem to be OK.

Smiles, MH

RCMoeur 

I think my Raleigh Pro is supposed to have the diagonal-numeral version of the decal (the original paint and decals having gone away 40+ years ago). Maybe someday I'll get a new one and slap it one.

merziac

@ascherer

Circling back to follow up, looks like the decal with the stars denoted US made frames, Schwinn was surely the biggest user of Reynolds here and may have had a lock on them.

This one is later, 77-82 with the TI box at the bottom but it states there were earlier versions without that line up with the white, yellow frames and Richard.

ascherer 

Interesting! What’s the source you’re showing? Look like an interesting read.
I sort of found it, H. Lloyd but I haven’t found all the labels and descriptions in one place.

RCMoeur 

Here is the second batch of fixed-up bikes for the local church. Some minor classics in the bunch, although I may have called a few of them different names when I discovered unseen problems during their time on the workstand. It would be great if I had time to clean and shine them up, but the church says they can take care of that prior to gifting day (whew).



Now just three more long days of work for Recycle Your Bicycle and the foster kids, and then I can get back to making paying clients - and several of my own bikes - happy

merziac

Reynolds sends you to H. Lloyd for decals before 1980.

I had to read the blurb several times to get the full 411 from it.

cjefferds 

I found this pearl red Raleigh super course frame at a swap meet in Feb. It took me a while to figure out that the bottom bracket is standard English (24 tpi) threaded. So was able to install a new Shimano bb. Most of the components are lifted from a 80s Univega Nuovo Sport including wheels, derailleurs and cranks. The frame is set up for 700c wheels with 120mm rear dropout spacing. The Univega wheels (Sansin hubs / Araya rims) are 27s with 126mm rear hub. I think I may have voided the warranty persuading the rear triangle to accommodate the wider hub.

Mr. 66

A Lotus Odyssey frame was hung at the Bike Works yellow house. Purchased for a paltry sum of $40. The Tange 2, in my size, as purchased.

It's missing a blue band, but it's strait, the paint is ok, the decals are alright and the chrome is great.

First test fit fails. The 40mm

Oh well, another test of 33mm knobbie does work, but was not photographed. I decided to go tubular and was going to try Sunshine high flange hubs on Mavic GP4 but discovered the frame 126. Those in turn are 120, so back on shelf with those.

So here is another set of GP4 on some, I don't know Victory hubs? These wheels came from the Wildwood collection and are absolutely smokin'. With the time period and my bins over flowing with Cyclone, Suntour is the mechanical choice.

A DDD chain from a coop reject Benotto, the Cyclone from a Trek 410.

Brakes, again period correct diacomp G are a plethora at the 66. However as I was digging through the bin I found and decided to go Gran Comp.


So here it sits, with a crispy Brooks saddle on a 26.8 post awaiting cablestop quick release and GC brake levers.

Life is good

AdventureManCO 

A couple of USA-made lugged Trek single tracks. Very nice! Good on you!