marius.suiram 

1983 made, Suntour Superbe derailleurs, hubs.
Sugino Mighty Aero crank set, Araya rims, Dia-Compe brakes.
Double butted Cro-Moly tubing with aero seat stays and Cro-Moly Aero front fork.
Almost like shown in '83 catalog.
​​​Any idea of the selling price?

Mr. 66

Oh boy! about $400, but clean the shmutz off the chain.

zukahn1 

Really nice looking bike in the current I would say $350-400 in the current soft market. I would suggest putting a putting a nice coat of wax on the frame to help smooth even out the look of the touch up paint which looks fairly nicely done.

Sedgemop 

If you're the seller, I'd start at $450 with a super clean bike and great photos in selling season. $350 might be where it winds up, though.

79pmooney

Those bikes are 1980s narrow tubed steel race bikes for American pavement at its best. Incredibly well thought out. What a ride! I rode that bike (59 cm) for Cycle Oregon last Sept. Perfect for all but the gravel we weren't warned about. (24c is the max you can fit in back. 25s don't even turn. I rode Vittoria Corsa G+ tubulars with a 23c at 110 psi in back, 25c at 95 psi in front. Sublime but the bike never lets you forget it is pure race. Tubing is Miyata - but Miyata is one of Japan's big companies. They have a small branch that makes bikes. They have a steel mill. Bike designer heaven. "I want a tube of this alloy with these thicknesses and butts that start here; for the 59c. For the 55, start the butts here. And 53, go down to this wall thickness with butts here.

I have no idea what Miyata actually did. Just that the bike I have is as close to perfect as I could ask.

zukahn1 

I would agree with 79pmooney the top end Miyata's did have about the best tube set for the time frame, Yet this does not equal big bucks in the current market. 80's DT shifter Japanese bikes are just a hard sell in the current market even the very best don't go $400-500 and the just really good stuff often lingers at $300 in most markets.

Sedgemop 

When these do come up for sale, I see the asking price routinely in the $600 range. I think they may have gone for that at one time, but probably not anymore. They are very nice bikes.

Sedgemop 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Pro-Mi...p2056016.l4276

I see you're following the more typical pricing for these. Please let us know if you're able to get that much. Good luck with it.

SurferRosa

Pull the stem out of the steerer and move the rear cable to the nds.

zukahn1 

Also put the cable behind on the left none drive side on the rear and shorten the total length by couple inches. While it doesn't effect workings the double cross one front and one back look a bit off just a simple fix pull the stem and seat post and put the cable on the other nds for a much cleaner looking cable line. On bikes like this one details matter sale wise correct setup details can mean $100-200 difference in sale price.

79pmooney

To be kosher, yes. To have the sweetest possible cable run? I've never seen a nicer bend at the seatpost than the OP's. I'm running a very normal Cyclone caliper with the usual left side vertical cable entry but the OP's with that diagonal slant? I'd do just as he has.

BMC_Kid 

Very nice Pro-Miyata! Looks like it is all original and in very nice condition. Hope you get what you are asking for it. That would mean it is going to someone who appreciates it and will give it a good home. Unfortunately, the market is not the best right now, and I don't see it getting any better any time soon when people will splurge on old bicycles. The target market for this bike at top dollar is getting older and smaller every year.

An '83 Pro Miyata was the first bike I bought with my own money. I was 16 at the time and moved up from a gas pipe late 70s Raleigh, which served me well for the previous 2 years. I lusted after a Tommasini, Zullo, or Picchio but they were out of range for me, so I got the last Pro for the year. I still have the '83 Pro (full DA AX, originally 600EX/AX) and have added an '83 Team (full DA EX), an '82 KOGA-Miyata Full Pro (full DA EX), an '81 Team frameset (looks NOS), and an '85 Team Pista, and a '91 Team with DA 7700. Also have the Zullo I always wanted and just recently picked up a Picchio Special to add to the stable.

I am still on the hunt for the elusive one-year-only, Campagnolo Super Record-equipped '84 Team Miyata SL, with black paint replacing the typical gold. So if you have one in very good-excellent condition, hit me up. I'll pay you top dollar for it!

Since we are talking Miyatas here, I have a question for the hive...

The below photo is from their 1986 catalog. Does anyone know the story behind the possible connection between Miaya and 7-Eleven? My understanding at this time was Murray then Huffy as their bike sponsors, with Serotta having built most of the frames.



By the way, here is how Miyata shows the routing of the rear brake cable housing for the Aero Gran Comp brakes with the aero levers:

1982 Pro-Miyata


1983 Pro-Miyata

plonz 

$550 in FBM makes it feel more in line IMO. Thinking it may still be high when I scroll a couple of pages down and see a lovely lilac Le Champion at $450 that’s been sitting idle.

79pmooney

Do you know the frame differences between the '82 and '83 Pro Miyatas? I bought mine as a bare frame and a box of rusted unmarked brakes and Superbe derailleurs. Another near complete bike is in the mail for me as I write.

I didn't realize both the '82 and '83 had the Symmetric shifters and that paint/decal scheme.

Edit: The words describing the handling are pretty flowery but yes, the bike does just that on corners. Best bike I've ever ridden for first time descents.

BMC_Kid 

There were no differences between ‘82 and ‘83 Pro-Miyata frames. Both fully chromed frames used the exact same tubing with top mounted downtube shifter bosses. I have original sets of the decals and IIRC, there is a slight difference in the font between the two.

79pmooney

Rats! The replacement has been repainted so I don't get to compare the decals. Main tubes on mine are not chromed. Fork and stays are. The bike was left out in the rain. Middle brake guide is gone, the seatpin threads disappeared second seat adjust but the small tubes are just fine. Hence the replacement.

Kilroy1988 

This is how the restored bike that @79pmooney is referring to when I received it from the original owner. It looked good from a few feet away but surface rust and cracks were all over the thing in all the usual spots, so I had it stripped and powdercoated before applying the exact same set of decals that were on it originally, except that the head tube decal I received from Velocals was apparently for a smaller frame size as it was smaller than this one. I did not realize it until they were out of business.

H2Rick

My goodness !!! Wouldn't I like to own that Pro !!!! However it looks like the frame may be a tad large for me.
Regardless, she's a stunner !!!

BMC_Kid 

I've got an '81 Team frame available, with or without a full NOS AX group. However lately, I've been thinking of building it up and adding it to my Miyata stable...



That Miyata bright blue and gold paint scheme sure is iconic for those of us who grew up back in the 80s and were into cycling.

Sedgemop 

What does it look like now?

Kilroy1988 

Well, I built it up like this but @79pmooney is going to change up a couple of things. I had a thread about this bike and shared the results of the restoration.

-Gregory

Sedgemop 

Ah, right. It's coming back to me now. Looks good as is.

Mr. 66

Yes definitely, I snapped up a 1980 without hesitation. I like the fact that my ‘80 has campy style shifter bosses.

79pmooney

I'll be changing the wheels (to tubulars, both GPs and GEL330s), bars and stem (I landed a welded stainless steel 140mm Nitto! Perfect length for me and this bike!) and pedals to Forte DELTAs. Crankset to Campy Chorus(?) triple (I'm no longer young) 7-speed FW; 13-26 for a start. So different but completely consistent (within a few years) of what an active racer might have on his primary tool (with that age concession on gearing. Bike's so sweet coming down I gotta have the gears to get up there.)

This bike is replacing an identical Pro Miyata with enough rust that it will never be beautiful. (And rusted out seatpin threads, missing the middle rear brake guide ...) The ride is absolutely to die for. Rode last September's last ever week long Cycle Oregon on it. Sublime! On a no-label, no history 140 steel stem. Replacing it with a SS gem of the exact dimensions and from one of the premier stem manufacturers? How'd I get that lucky? (Portland "yard sale" I heard about here with some choice stuff!)

These bikes cry out for tubulars. Good ones. Because good tubulars can be a bunch smaller for "the ride". And big simply isn't an option. 25c is max comfortable in front. 24 is max that will spin in back. (A true to size 25c Corsa tubular hits the brake.) I've been riding an undersized Corsa 23c in back at 110 psi. Nice rims. I want to keep them that way. The bike simply feels 100% just perfect with good tubbie rubber that hard and skinny. Even on bad roads. (Yes, it is a race bike and wants to be ridden like one. I came to a rough patch of pavement; basically a 20' long pothole bottom gong about 45 mph on a descent at CO. Raise my butt up slightly, tightened my grip on the drops but not my forearms and just let the bike roll and bump along, then hit the final 2" lip and bounced back to the pavement. Bike's comment? "I could go this for a 100 miles if you can find a hill that long! No problem." Completely confidence inspiring.)

The ride!

H2Rick

Bike's comment? "I could go this for a 100 miles if you can find a hill that long! No problem." Completely confidence inspiring.)

LOLOLOL. Yes, I'm hoping for the same type of response from my 710 when I get finished with the refurbishment.